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Everything posted by voodoocat

  1. Hello my car start to smoke a little under hood, because the valve cover gasket gave out and oil leaks down to exhaust manifold. I first suspected was coolant expansion tank leaking (the plastic weld gives out) but it was valve cover gasket. After 130K+ miles it became hardened and could not maintain a seal. Thank you for the VIM tools link, that tool is essential to remove/install the 3 T40 screws in back, especially the lower one. Be sure to dab RTV gasket maker where cylinder head and timing chain cover meet, 2 per side.
  2. Yes camshaft position sensor do go bad. Please don't buy Beck-Arnley, both of mine was faulty new. Hard access, driver side is little easier than passenger side. Intake manifold might have to come out for pass side.
  3. My fuel rail cap got loose and fell. Found it when I removed intake manifold.
  4. Hello, The coolant T pipe is known to fail at plastic. Some have replaced with brass T. Failed on both my CTT (04). A cable operated hose clamp plier is a must. If replacing, I suggest to also replace starter and coolant vent line as they will wear out, you don't want to keep on taking off intake manifold. Starter can be changed with alum coolant pipes intact. Looks impossible, but it can be done. I wish engineers gave 1mm more clearance. Pelican has good writeup. Advice: keep battery disconnected until fuel line is reconnected. Fuel pump will prime the line when power restored.
  5. I cut plumbing 20mil pipe wrap tape to size and taped on the cleaned roof. Then dab clear caulk where bolt will enter roof.
  6. The grab handle area got wet for me too. Once roof rail removed, I found the gasket above wet area was giving up. Replaced and it's good now.
  7. I keep a length of 1/2" (1.3cm) ID vacuum or heater hose and hose clamps around. I slip it over vacuum line cracks. The plastic vacuum line will eventually crack as the car ages.
  8. Hello, The rubber driveshaft support mount went out on me during travelling. I thought the tire was going major out of balance. Anyway I considered to buy $300+ replacement support, but did this: It is a hack, but the purpose of support mount is to absorb vibration and the heater hose can do that fine. It does not rotate, put significant load, etc. I also needed to repair right away and not wait for parts to arrive. The culprit is on rear driveshaft. I used: (it really is $2 and 2 hours of time) 9 pcs 5/8" ID heater hose (3/4"OD), $2, 1.5~2" long pieces. (1" as in the Utube is just enough length, give a little extra) 14pcs 8" ziptie wire cutter to cut the ziptie 2L plastic bottle; cut a piece and wrap around shaft+bearing to help hoses slide it in, and remove after. don't use 500ml drink bottles, too thin and will rip upon removal. Use hand sanitizer to lube up to ease install onto bearing. They evaporate and will contact tightly to bracket and bearing. Several razor blade/utility knife to cut away remaining rubber mount. Replace frequently, sharp blades work much better. Its the most time consuming. Dont have to be perfect just cut off most of old rubber. Wear mechanics glove to prevent injuring hands. 13mm + 16mm and impact driver or rachet if not lazy eye protection someone on Utube suggested to cut 45 degree on end to ease install onto bearing. I don't suggest it, reduces surface area, and not necessary if using 2L plastic piece to guide hoses onto bearing. Install the hose assembly inside bracket, then slide it onto bearing.
  9. Thank you for the information. I also got 1217, lifted the seat and found it already had the recall work done. The crimp looked pretty solid, but I soldered the wires anyway, and the problem went away after resetting with Durametric. It is possible to make the repair without removing the seat entirely; remove front 2 bolts, remove plastic cover on rear rails, and lift up the seat. It's a narrow reach to the black and blue wires but doable. Be careful when removing the aluminum triple square bolts. If you strip them, it'll be a bad day.
  10. Hi, how difficult is it to replace front crossmember? My shop says the engine need to be pulled, but can i use a hoist or suspend over struts while swapping the crossmember? I find that the crossmember is about $90, don't want to pull an engine to replace $90 part.. Loren (or someone) can you post the dwg of crossmember components? Thank you.
  11. My 04TT had P0021 also, replaced sensor and the code went away for me. Sensor is at rear of valve head cover, by the fuel rail, held with one torx screw. Recommend a genuine part, I first got cheaper beck/arnley but it was defective and missing the O ring. It is a Hall effect sensor, cannot test if the part is good or bad with a tester. Be careful not to drop the screw as it is a tight access.
  12. FYI, I didn't waste my money on Beru plugs, used NGK Iridium BKR6EIX. 4 years and 40000 miles later, still running strong, not a single misfire. I do recommend genuine coil packs, knockoff coils have inferior boot rubber that hardens, get brittle and misfires.
  13. Oil leak at driver side inter cooler pipe is common. There are other threads on the topic. A new (green) gasket will fix the leak. I replaced both driver and passenger side gaskets since it's 8-9 years old. Loosen the locking clip ring on the outer pipe and the inner pipe will come out. Access to passenger side pipes is easier. Unlike O ring, these silicone gaskets will fit in much easier.
  14. Commenting on old thread about Fumoto valve. Plug#1: F-104 + ADP-104. It will contact the plastic skid guard. Plug#2: F104N + ADP-104 You need to grind off the hex edges on ADP-104 so it can fully seat into the recess.
  15. I reset it last night following instruction on other forum. Ign off press odo reset (0.0) on dash, keep pressing, turn on ign, no need to start car "Service reset" on screen press reset on wiper stalk. i tried Durametric, they have the service reset option but it didn't work for me.
  16. Please support Durametric. It is well worth the price. Don't support Chinese thieves.
  17. If you are talking about the coolant T behind/below firewall leading to the turbos, I was able to blind reach from top, basically lay on top of engine and stick my arm in there. From bottom, you can pick and poke the with a stick but can't grasp it. Besides, you need to further push up to remove them. The hose that feeds driver side turbo is reachable from bottom. You need to get a cable operated hose clamp opener. I got craftsman tool, but it opens barely not enough to loosen the clamp, get a better one. When you remove the T, actually 2 T's connected making an H, observe the hose and T orientation and pre assemble the new units identically. And don't forget to pre install the bands (!)
  18. That's what happened to me, both motors disintegrated internally. The fan vanes have very tight tolerance. I think the valve will eventually give out, stuck open and exhaust back flows to the fan. Then, your brand new fan might break again. Or valve might stick close, overloading the 40A motor. Motors are about 250'each, valve is 120 each. I recommend to change all 4. Then no worries about it. I was chasing CEL for over a month until I replaced all 4, resetting and coming back on again. I think a broken piece jammed my valve open. You should clear the connecting hose so nothing is stuck in there.
  19. I recommend to replace secondary air injection valves, both sides. If those fail and stuck open, secondary air pump might fail which is another 200 bucks each. You can do it later, but it's a 5 minute job with hoses in the back out of the way. Also expansion tank as the other poster mention, the plastic weld will break and eventually leak coolant.
  20. Yes it can identify which sensor is faulty. It was my first diagnostic when I got durametric.Turn on the hazards when diagnosing, this keeps can bus stay on.
  21. 1) do not buy Beck / Arnley CPS. Though it says made in germany, they sell a defective unit. Bought 2 sensors, the measurement across pins are different between two units. Another poster had a problem too. yes it's 1/2 the price of Bosch, but it doesn't work. For me durametric said the value was off, but was not causing a code. I replaced with B&A, car couldn't start, so i put back the original/genuine. 2) If you are very careful, you can replace from top; get a skinny T10 socket (male), get at Harborfright for ~10. remove 2ndary air pump, and you will find cps. remove connector, carefully remove the screw and take out the unit. the oring tend to stay on the block side.
  22. You should replace the gasket for intercooler pipe. Driver (left) side seem to have more issues. It is inexpensive.
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