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dallison

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Everything posted by dallison

  1. I will verify that dropping the mufflers will make life easier.
  2. Ahsai, thanks for the help with this thread. It made a difference in thinking things out.
  3. I am done. I don't know what i wiggled around or whatever worked itself out, but the grey dragon runs well. I have replaced the fuel rail, fuel injectors, starter, some vacuum line, and the aos. I will save the new plugs, brake lines, brake fluid reserviour and flush the brakes this winter.
  4. All is back together after replacing the voltage regulator and the 4mm vacuum line. It started up after the fuel ran itself through the lines. It runs rough sitting in the garage from 1-2 rpm but seems to rev decently higher. I wonder if it's a bad vacuum line, something not connected correctly, fuel injector not installed/connected properly, or even coolant in with the plug. I would hope it's not the last one, but i do have new plugs. The old ones worked fine before. So far no cel codes. At this point it could be a few things.
  5. What i did was to remove the passenger side manifold and wiggle everything together. I have to get some of the 4mm vacuum line for what i had damaged. When i removed the connection from the alternator, the plastic connection broke off, So i'll need a new voltage regulator. I can live with those repairs. I am hoping that everything starts when i get it all put back together.
  6. Success! i had issues with moving the wire harnesses out of the way, but i had tightened the aos first and then moved the manifold into place and threaded the forward most bolt. Before installing everything, i had threaded it in w/o having the manifold installed. This way i could thread it in with my fingers most of the way once installed. I had to use a small 10mm wrench to tighten it from under the manifold. It took a few minutes but it worked. Now i need to put the intake tubes back in and get some 4mm vacuum tubing.
  7. I have to stop right now, but i was able to get the other 10mm bolt loose enough to move the aos. B/c the wire harness is in the way, i jammed a longer extension in there and proceeded to reinstall. I have use a 1/4" 10mm socket since that is thinner and that did the trick. But, the extension that was on the aos bolt came off, but still in the general area. I think i can work with this later.
  8. I was out there this morning removing the manifold and trying to get access to the aos. The aos bolt closest to the firewall is easiest to remove, but the one closest to the manifold is giving me a ****fit. I am wondering how the f i was able to get it in and out before. I don't see how i can get the manifold back on and then tighten the aos bolt. This is really frustrating. i am close to getting it towed to the indy. The wire harness seems to be providing some access difficulty too.
  9. HELP!! i can't get the last manifold bolt tightened. It's the one that is right next to the aos. I have the bolt in the hole, but i can't get a socket on it to tighten it. The aos seems to be closer to the manifold than the last one. Do you think it's possible that the aos is in at an angle or something else?
  10. I have the aos back in and i did have an old version in. There wasn't any oil in the header, but i did have it in the intake tubes. I have replaced the starter too, that is finally done. Before putting the manifold back on, i have installed the coolant tank. I figured it may be the easiest way to get it back in. It took almost 30 minutes with all of the other crap out.
  11. This was a perfect suggestion. It helped with the lower hose of the aos. It still was a pita, but it helped.
  12. That is what i am finding out. I have ordered a used one from dcauto. i may even buy new injectors.
  13. I was replacing the aos and i had damaged the fuel line that attaches to the driver side fuel rail. Most answers tell me that i need to buy the entire new fuel rail with the lines attached. Is there fuel line available to replace just that?
  14. I've been avoiding doing this to mine, but i already have the liners out so i might as well do it too
  15. Loren is 100% correct. I had an old camry that used to do this due to short 5 mile commutes. Now that my commutes are 35 minutes, i never see this any more.
  16. nevermind, i contacted Euro Motorspeed and have my solution.
  17. I have an 02 996 with the base cdr220 system. I am replacing the factory with an alpine cde136bt. What harness would i use for this?
  18. my boxster is like that when it's cold. i always think that i don't press far enough on the clutch and that is the problem. So now i make sure i do a real slow and thought out shift and no grind. I have 57k so along with the other fluids, it's time to change the trans fluid.
  19. It reminds me of the MAF sensor problem that i had in my toyotas. Sometimes it would throw a code and sometimes it wouldn't. Those things are a pain when they start to go. Once i replaced mine, it was fine. I always try the least expensive things first. Clean the MAF sensor and make sure you don't use an oiled filter.
  20. clogged nozzles, bad pump or leak in line like others said.
  21. I think jake raby is around $3500 but he also does dyno before and after and also a long drive to make sure all is well.
  22. These coil packs are actually cheaper than most of my other cars, Aren't they around $40-50ea ? I thought they were around 80 but I could be wrong. 42.50 from pelican, maybe cheaper from sunset.
  23. Wouldn't an OBD II scanner pick out which one it is? yes, and it did for mine. I could have sworn that it clicked.
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