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deliriousga

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Everything posted by deliriousga

  1. deliriousga
    The 7 in 4417 does not represent the heat range. The Bosch Platinum +2 that's called out for the Boxster is #4303, but the last 3 is not for the heat range. The 4417 fits as far as size goes, but it's not the same plug as or equal to the OEM FR7LDC4. The OEM FR7LDC4 plugs are copper, not platinum. The 4 digit numbered plugs are just an easy lookup number for the end user at an auto shop for the plugs sold retail and have no real meaning. The FR7LDC4 means: F=Seat (16mm), Threads (M14x1.25) R=Version (With suppression resistor) 7=Heat range (7) L=Thread lenghth (19mm) spark position (5mm) D=Electrode version (2 electrodes) C=Electrode material (Copper) 4=Version (Extended insulator nose) I've had the same comments as MNBoxster's on the Boxster and on the 928 so that's why I'll be sticking with OEM type plugs and no longer try other plugs.....just in case.
  2. deliriousga
    The only thing that concerns me about the 4417s is the heat rating. I'd hate to overheat them on a hard run and end up with meleted platinum flying around in the cylinder. Just changed my 4417s out because they don't have the "7" heat rating.
  3. deliriousga
    That's the relay box. The #53 is on the most common relay in the box. The slot numbers are small and on the black plastic the relays are mounted in. Click on this http://www.theschillings.com/boxrelay.htm That goes straight to the page with the picture of the relay box, what each relay is for and the part numbers.
  4. deliriousga
    Berliner: Unfortunately, clicking on the selections on your web page gets no results. In fact, the text is not "visible. I have set security and content to "default", still no joy. This is not the first time it has happened, but I don't know what to do about it. Sorry, I have Macromedia Flash buttons on the site. If you don't have Flash player or Shockwave on your system you can't see the buttons. I'll try to get it changed to something more easily read asap. Lately I've spent too much time working on the cars and not on the site. :rolleyes: Thanks for pulling the text for him adsach. :thumbup:
  5. deliriousga
    Check the fuse and relay. I believe there's a separate fuse for the running lights, but not sure. I have a relay chart on my website at http://www.theschillings.com Just click on the Boxster, click on "Where Is It" then "Relay Charts"
  6. deliriousga
    Yeah, it's the filler tube. I replaced it Saturday. It had been flattened so many times it was forming a white crease along the elbow.
  7. deliriousga
    Does anybody know if the oil separator going bad would cause a high vacuum on the oil filler tube? It flattens out when the engine is on and pops back into shape when it's turned off. Looks like I'll be replacing the separator this weekend and hopefully that's it.
  8. deliriousga
    Thanks. I'll search on the separator and see what I can come up with. That sure would be nice rather than an internal leak.
  9. deliriousga
    The smoke comes out of the exhaust. I don't see it coming from the engine bay or around the exhaust like it's leaking on something then burning. It's like too much oil is being pumped into the cylinder(s) and it's burning it off. If it sits for about 2 hours, about a cup of oil will be burned off at start-up. The amount of smoke is so big if you back into it you're completely blind, like sitting in the middle of a cloud. I'll try and post a picture in a bit if I can. It is also squealing sometimes. It sounds like the belt, but there's nothing on the belt and the tensioner is keeping it tight. The squealing and smoke problem started at the same time so I'm guessing they're related. Does anyone know if you can see the oil dripping if you have an RMS failure? I was looking around at everything fromI believe the RMS should be located and it's all sealed so I don't know if you can see the leak or not. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm flying blind right now and we won't drive it until it's figured out. Working on the clutch in the 928 today since I should be able to finish it and keep 2 cars on the road, but the wife doesn't like seeing her baby sit in the garage. :(
  10. deliriousga
    Ditto! Renovo is fantastic for foggy, scratched windows.
  11. deliriousga
    Changing the fan yourself is about $150 w/ shipping from Sunset Imports if you're in the US and not in Oregon or Washington State. My right fan is going out too. I can hear a worn bearing whine when I turn the car off and the fans wind down. They still blow about the same, but as the bearings wear it will eventually burn out the motor. I'll do the tissue test and see if they blow the same and let you know.
  12. deliriousga
    Big differences in the engine specs. The '01 has a 2.7 and the '99 has a 2.5. Don't know about interior or option differences.
  13. deliriousga
    Unless you've replaced the engine with a bigger one, you should not be having cooling trouble unless something is wrong. How is your coolant level? Check it one morning, drive it that day then check it the next morning and see if it's going down. You could have the infamous cracked reservoir with a mystery leak you can't see. Lift your trunk carpet and see if there's any coolant under it or any signs of dried coolant. If the tank is cracked, even though it may not leak to below the minimum mark, it messes up the pressure so the flow is not as strong as it should be. Just did that in mine and everything is back to normal, even on the 95F+ days the engine stays at around 195-200F. :clapping: The A/C compressor does generate a ton of heat and the engine compartment fan is what cools it. Any time your engine temp is above 180F the engine compartment fan should be on when the A/C compressor is on. Check and make sure none of your vents are clogged with leaves, etc. too. Also, check the water pump and make sure it's working properly. Even if you add the third radiator because of the heat in your area, you need to find the problem or it will just get worse.
  14. deliriousga
    Several things can do it. Bad or low octane gasoline, MAF, O2 Sensors, vacuum leak, clogged air intake, clogged air filter, clogged exhaust or cats.... Do you have a K&N air filter or another type you oil? Over-oiling can cause the MAF to go bad.
  15. deliriousga
    I haven't done it yet, but they look just like the 928 bolts. 6mm Allen bolts hold the inner joint to the tranny. One big honkin' axle bolt at the other end. Looks pretty easy. :thumbup:
  16. deliriousga
    You can feel them sucking the air in the front intakes too when parked and feel wind coming from underneath behind the front tires when they are working properly and the car temp is above 180F. If you are on a gravel road or parking lot you can see dust flying everywhere. Also check your engine compartment fan. It takes more heat to turn it on, but you should feel it sucking air in from the right (passenger) rear intake. One way to tell if you are going to be dropping a fan soon is if you hear it whining when it turns off. The bearings are going bad and it will eventually make it too hard for the electric motor to turn the fan and burn out. My engine compartment sensor fritzed so the rear fan didn't work, caused an over heat and a blown coolant reservoir. Whatever it is, get it fixed asap to avoid any further damage. ;)
  17. deliriousga
    You can re-paint it. Just make sure the paint you use is made for plastic. Sand off the old stuff with very light sandpaper then paint it. Make sure you also use the clear coat that goes over the paint. There's some stuff available at Lowe's or Home Depot that is specifically for plastic, paint and clear coat. I just used it on my 928 shift cap and it turned out great. :D Then take the ring off or wear driving gloves. ;)
  18. deliriousga
    Yep. I just went through it too. :cursing: Hope it's all better soon. :thumbup:
  19. deliriousga
    Your dealer couldn't get it because it's not listed in PET. It is shown, but not pointed out with a part number. Porsche puts the part number on every part so if you take it off you should be able to get it. There are only 3 screws holding it on so it's easy to remove.
  20. deliriousga
    If it's only when you turn the wheel, I'd guess loose steering rack or something along that path. Have you raised it up and looked from underneath?
  21. deliriousga
    Even though it's easier to just break a window, you're talking about common thieves who are not the brightest people in the world. I hate to rain on your parade, but they will probably see a soft top and "think" it's easy to get into, cut it to shreds trying to get in, then break the window because they were too dense to think of it in the first place. For example, with my former Jeep, a total idiot spent 20 minutes tearing the crap out of my console trying to get the cheap stereo out. At least he was smart enough to try the door first, because the dealer told me to never lock the doors because it would cost me more to replace the cut out windows than it would for a stereo. Anyway, he beat the heck out of it trying to pry the thing out when all he had to do was pop two screws out and the entire thing just pulls off. Two minutes is all it should have taken. And this is what he does for a living? Instead, he's on camera for 20 minutes in the grocery store parking lot (they still couldn't find him even with the tape), he probably got $40 for the stereo at a pawn shop and I had to pay $350+ for a new console and stereo. :soapbox: If I were there, I would get the hard top and only take it off when I go for a fun drive around town without any stops. A window is a whole lot less to replace than a top. ;)
  22. deliriousga
    Not repairable? Is it a sealed tranny or something like that? I've just never heard of such a thing so I'm wondering what would make it unrepairable. That would be really frustrating. Usually if you have one gear out, you replace the gear and any other little thing in there that may have been damaged by a piece of flying metal and go about your business.
  23. deliriousga
    I think with the run flats, the rubber would be too hard. The Boxster (and any sports car) likes softer, stickier, better handling tires. I would imagine the speed rating would be much lower than a regular tire too due to the harder rubber. As far as why you didn't feel it, you have 18" wheels. With those wheels the profile on the tire is so low that it's not a big difference in the height of the tire when it goes flat. A great reason to check your pressure every time you get gas, especially in front where the pressure is much lower. It's not like a Jeep where the tire goes flat and the car is tilting at 20 degrees. :lol: Sorry to hear about your trouble and hope you're good to go soon.
  24. deliriousga
    Try the relays for the spoiler. They are #3 and #9 in the rear relay box (in the rear trunk on the left-hand side behind the carpet. Both relays are for the spoiler are #996 615 102 00. One is probably for the button and the other is probably for the automatic at speed. Swap them and see if your problem reverses (i.e. spoiler goes up on its' own but does not go up with the button). If it changes the problem, then pick up a new relay and replace the bad one. It's worth a shot before you get into real diagnostics. If that doesn't work, come back and post it and I'll give you some more exstensive diagnostics you can do. EDIT: I found the full chart on the relays. #3 is for spoiler extension and #9 is for spoiler retraction.
  25. deliriousga
    Can you buy just the pads somewhere?
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