goldenwarrior1

You didn't state the year of your car but I am assuming it is a 99-04... You have three options with regards to replacing your IMS. Options 1 and 2 are replacement bearings offered as a retrofit for the single and double row bearings and can be replaced without disassembly of the engine. The 3rd option, called an upgrade, requires disassembly of the motor and is beyond the ability of the average DIY unless you have all the special tools and are very mechanically inclined and experienced. As for whether or not you need it, thats a crap shoot. Depending on who you talk too it could happen tomorrow or never. However, considering 18-20K for a new motor, 500 bucks its pretty cheap insurance, especially if you do the work yourself. Hope this helps, Tom PS: If nothing else, call or email Jake Raby. He is the expert...

The adjuster pully is on a spring loaded arm, you do not loosen anything. If I remember correctly it requires a 22 MM socket on a long ratchet or breaker bar. You can also use one of the special serpentine belt tools as well. With the belt installed you will be able to see which direction the arm needs to swing to loosen the belt. Installation is the reverse. Really quite easy and should take you no more than 20-30 minutes the first time you do it.

I had my motor out a few weeks ago and separating the A/C unit from the engine is a whole lot quicker, despite the hard to access rear bolt, than recharging the system and definitely a lot cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth.

Sorry to hear that! Glad you and the car are all right but boy that is some bad Karma! Maybe you should drop a name!!!!

Here is a Turbo wing on my 02 996 made by Getty design. Quality and fit is perfect. Attached is a picture of mine installed. Getty Design

Always Glad to hear success! :clapping:

Replaced the water pump on my 02 996, flushed the system, replaced a few hoses, added new coolant and it only took about 3 hours... And I am not a Porsche mechanic!

If your car is NOT a C4 some of this won't apply... I would put the car up on jacks or a lift and inspect the complete drive train to start with. All 4 drive shafts (if C4) and especially the flex coupling between the Cardan shaft and output shaft of the transmission. Also check your transmission mount for a cracked or deteriorated rubber bushing. I doubt if engine mounts are the culprit but you can check them as well. If all of this checks out then you most likely have somthing internal to the transmissoin that is causing the clunk. You have a differential inside the transmission and something could have broken or is on its way out.

Let us know if this works, to date I know of no one who has been able to find a part that fits. I pulled mine off the old shaft last night and compared it to the pictures on the BMW parts and the ones I looked at did not have the metal flange protruding on either side of the coupling that mates with the driveshaft and tail yoke on the tranny. $50 would have been a heck of a lot better that $450.00!

Road session, not sure who your search was directed to but your search result was my old post! OP asked if the Guibo from a cayene would fit and I can find no reference to that on this site so a search would have turned up nothing....

Hasteyrb, I just went through this on my 02 C4S. Ended up buying the entire shaft as I could not find a replacement flex coupling by itself. Quite a bit irritating as it is obvious the part is a wear item. Intersting though, the Porsche, Mercedes and BMW parts all look the same. I would bet they are and come from the same supplier. But I would hate to waste 118.00 to find out I was wrong... R/Tom

Just my .02 worth as well but I agree with Rizzo. I have been doing brakes for over 35 years and you don't need to replace the rotors if they meet the specs you listed. The worst that may happen is they warp from the decreased thickness. The only other factor I would consider is if you are using it as a tow vehicle.

Here is the link to Suncoast in Sarasota Florida. Great folks, I use them all the time... Suncoast Porsche

I don't have a copy of the 997 wiring but from what you are describing I would verify you do not have a shorted seat heater first. From your description it sounds like the fuse blows when you press the seat heaters. They are a resistance wire that heats when current applied, perhaps one of them shorted out. Not that uncommon. R/Tom

Make sure the mating surface on the engine is perfectly clean and no scratches or corrosion is present and reinstall without the gasket. The O ring embedded in the cover should provide all the sealing you need. Make sure you don't over torque the fasteners when installing. The aluminum is unforgiving.

Orient Express, That makes sense, I'll check it tonight. Thanks, Tom

2002 C4S. I replaced my coolant tank and cap sometime last fall with a new tank and upgraded cap. I drained and flushed the coolant after I replaced a bad AOS last week and when I went to top off the coolant last night I noticed something I don't remember in the past. When I tighten the cap it gets to a certain point and then releases just like the locking fuel cap. Is this normal? It seems to me that the cap always tightened down until it stops... Anyone mind checking their cap or let me know which is correct? Thanks, Tom

Did she not have insurance?

2002 C4S Manual Trans with 96K miles. Thought I would provide this in case someone else should stumble into the same problem. A few weeks ago I dropped the motor and transmission to replace the AOS and while in there replace the clutch and inspect the IMS bearing. The clutch and AOS went in without a hitch but when I went to reconnect the battery I found it had died in the several weeks of sitting. (Awaiting parts for 10 days due to bad parts shipped on first order). When I replaced the battery the car started and ran like a champ but I had lost the power windows and interior lights. Also, when I tried to lock the car I got the double beep indicating some type of alarm failure/problem. I spent several hours tracing circuits and verifying fuses for the power windows and finally came to the conclusion that the problem was in the alarm circuit and not the power windows. I started with fuse A1 and began pulling every fuse in the box until I reached fuse C3 which was blown. When I went to the fuse diagram it turned out to be the alarm module fuse. Replaced and everything is working perfect. A big thanks to LOREN for providing some technical data and locating some hard to find components in the car. :thankyou: On another note, after pulling the flywheel I was quite surprised to see the revised single row 3605 bearing with larger diameter stud and nut configuration installed on my 2002 car. This could mean one thing; the engine had been replaced by a Porsche remanufactured engine. The engine serial number confirms it is a 2006 engine. I am the 3rd owner and bought the car that had been a trade-in at a local P-Dealer and they didn't seem to know the engine had been replaced. Best as I can tell the engine was replaced under warranty in 2006 by Porsche. Lucky me and a nice find as I didn't have to pay for the IMS upgrade.

The plunger is self adjusting. You remove the switch by twisting, pull the plunger out all the way (you can feel it kind of ratchet in you fingers) and then reinstall. When you push the pedal in the depth of the plunger adjusts itself to the correct travel needed.

Went through the exact same thing with my Honda Civic! Only showed up on hard braking. As 1Schoir stated, turned out to be the upper strut mount. At first I thought it was the brakes I.E. warped rotor, excessive run out etc. changed rotors and pads and the same thing happened. Pulled struts and found found a bad strut bearing. Replaced and car is back to normal. Regards, Tom

Welcome! Great taste in cars :thumbup:

Somthing is wrong with your link!!!

I have a 02 C4S as well and was wondering how many miles on your car ?? I will have to check the shaft on my car once I am under it again for an oil change. Were there any symptoms of the shaft being bad in your case before you visually saw the deteriration of the coupling?? TIA demosan I have 95K on the car. I had no indications but noticed it when I dropped the trans to replace the AOS and Clutch. Primary reason was the AOS going bad and decided to replace the clutch while I had everything out. Coupling was cracked in several places, one area had a crack on both sides that almost came together in the middle. Ordered the entire shaft as I can find no other options. I think the entire shaft is considered a consumable item as the U-joint on the opposite end is staked in vs help in with a C-clip. R/Tom

Ouch! Thanks, looks like I have no other alternatives!