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pike1181

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About pike1181

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://vancouverchickenman.com
  • Skype
    pike1181

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Houston, Texas, USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2006 Boxster S
    2012 Audi A3 TDI
  1. Thanks JFP. I'll try to figure out where the 2nd set of sensors are listed in Durametric and try to run that test tomorrow. I'll post the results once I find the time to do it. On another note, I noticed yet another weird issue - my RPM's would fluctuate while idling. The fluctuation is noticeable as the car gets quieter, has a slight hesitation then back to normal - it does this in a regular pattern - quite similar to the O2 voltage regulation actually.
  2. Thanks JFP. I'll try to figure out where the 2nd set of sensors are listed in Durametric and try to run that test tomorrow. I'll post the results once I find the time to do it. On another note, I noticed yet another weird issue - my RPM's would fluctuate while idling. The fluctuation is noticeable as the car gets quieter, has a slight hesitation then back to normal - it does this in a regular pattern - quite similar to the O2 voltage regulation actually.
  3. Thanks for the info JFP - nicely written. Any tips on how to monitor each of the sensors with Durametric? I've been winging it and not quite sure what the titles that I need to be monitoring/logging are for O2 before cats and O2 after cats. If the cats are bad, would the SAI simply not turn on at all? We're allowed to have 1 failure here in Texas so as long as I can get either the O2 or the SAI to turn on, I'll be happy - although I would like to get to the root of the problem as well. I've uploaded some O2 results from my OBDII Wifi app. - Again, I'm not sure whether these are pre or post cats. Bank2 displays "Not Used" when I try running a monitor on them. I wonder if that's relative to my issue.
  4. Hey guys, So I'm having this issue that is driving me crazy. My SAI (Secondary AIr Injection) and Oxygen Sensor are not reaching "Ready Status" A little background about my car. 2006 Boxster S 3.2L FVD Exhaust system GMS Headers with 200 cell cats - has all 4 O2 sensors attached. 996 throttle body and distribution hose ECU Tuning Group tune I had the car up in BC Canada since 2009 (although it is a US car) and had no problems passing the sniffer and obdII tests - both before and after all the mods except for the ECU tune. I went to get my emissions testing done last week in Texas and failed due to the 2 systems being in not-ready status. I figured it might have to do with the cat delete (ROW) configured in the tune. I sent my ECU back to ETG in California and had them re-flash my ECU in order to re-enable the O2 sensors. I cleared all codes and figured I would start fresh. I drove the car about 120 miles and attempted to follow the drive cycle mentioned in the forums but it was really tough with the roads out here. Everything is in ready status except for the SAI, and the O2 sensor. I can manually start the SAI using the Durametric system so I would believe the pump is not bad; however, I'm not sure that I"m hearing the SAI start up when I cold start the engine. For testing purposes I unplugged my O2 sensors from both bank1 and bank2 and they both threw fault codes which confirms that the ECU tune re-activated my sensors. I've uploaded a few pictures with the results from a OBDII app as well as the Durametric Software to my Google Drive. I'm not quite sure how to interpret the Durametric Voltage results - especially the negative 50 V and -127V - seems quite odd. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4ncE-o5M02DeUlLZVlxRV9hX3c Any help or guidance will be appreciated as I'm out of ideas. Thanks, Joel
  5. Update: So I spoke with the manufcaturer (GMS) of the headers and they will not do a replacement or trade since it has been 2 years. They offered me a set of headers without cats for 50% off retail. British Columbia is eliminating emissions testing as of the end of the year. Would you suggest I purchase the catless headers, purchase another set of headers with the 200 cell racing cats, or simply have my headers repaired and the ceramic coating eliminated? From reading deeper into some of the forums I am concerned that they will crack again. What are your thoughts?
  6. If they will replace the headers under warranty, that would be your cheapest and easiest option. If the cracks have to be welded, you will need to pull the headers, strip the coating off to find all the cracks (there are probably more if you already have found some), get them welded, then have the headers recoated. This is going to take both time and money, and the car will be laid up for some time. Hey JFP, I'm waiting on a response back from the GMS to see if they will honor a replacement. I'm quite doubtful, however it is wishful thinking. I did find a shop in the area willing to pull the headers, grind the coating off, weld the crack(s), and mount the headers for about $150. This plan does not consist of re-coating the headers. Is this an okay plan? How about wrapping the headers with heat-wrap rather than re-coating them for a quicker solution and an alternative? I have run the car about 3500 Miles so far with the Check Engine light on as it originally came on during a road trip down and up the coast. Could I cause any damage if I keep running the car like this (other than a performance lag) for another 1,000 or 2,000 KM ? Any input on whether or not I should have the cats sawed off and replaced by an extension tube? Thanks!
  7. Hi guys, I've had my check engine light go on a few weeks ago and the code mentioned that the O2 sensors were running in limp mode causing the car to run rich. After taking her into the shop they informed me they found a crack in my headers before sensor 1 and before the cats bank 2. I've got a set of GMS Ceramic Coated Headers (Can be seen here: http://www.greenmotorsport.us/servlet/the-241/GMS-987-Cayman-fdsh-Boxster-fdsh-S-Sport/Detail ) The headers and cats are 1 piece and purchased 2 years ago. What do you guys suggest I do? 1. Have GMS replace the headers under some sort of warranty? 2. Wrap the headers? 3. Have the ceramic coating grinded off the whole headers/cats, have the crack tig welded and put them back on? 4. Have the ceramic coating only grinded off where the crack is, have the crack tig welded, and put the headers back on? 5. Have the ceramic coating grinded off the whole headers, have the crack tig welded, have the headers wrapped, and then put them back on? 6. Have the ceramic coating grinded off the headers, have the crack tig welded and put them back on without any heat protection? 7. Have the ceramic coated grinded, have the cats cut off and eliminated, tig weld the crack and add an extension to the FVD exhaust. 8. Any other ideas? Keep in mind this is my daily driver. Thank you
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