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Ahsai

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Everything posted by Ahsai

  1. You may also want to check with key ON engine OFF, whether pin 1 of the backup switch socket (with the connector removed from the switch) gets 12v.
  2. On my '02 and '03, I need to remove the relay and jump the power contacts for the pump to run. Figure #2 here https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/22-FUEL-Replacing_the_Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Replacing_the_Fuel_Pump.htm No need to even put the key in. Have you checked for sparks also?
  3. The info shown above by Joe is good. Since you have an '03, there's a fuel line quick connect around the top of the coolant reservoir. Just squeeze the grey tab in (you may not see it since it's behind facing the front of the car) and disconnect. Then you can measure the flow. You can also make an adapter to measure the pressure. There are also two brass caps on the fuel rail that you can remove to do the same but I do not recommend removing those as I had a bad experience getting them resealed when reinstalled.
  4. Yes, the first link is a well known attack. I think some even suggested wrapping the key fob with tin foil when not in use sitting at home. However, that attack only works on key fobs with the keyless entry feature, which our 996 don't have. The keyless entry feature lets you just carry the key fob in your pocket. Once you get to the proximity of the car, the car doors just unlocks automatically without you doing anything. The relay attack basically amplifies the wireless signals from the key fob to trick the car thinking the key fob is close by while it's really far away in the bedroom drawer.
  5. There are professional tools (e.g., transponder emulator) that can hack the system but I'm pretty sure if involves customized s/w and h/w, and not just supplying power to a few pins. This paper was published 5 yrs ago https://www.cs.bham.ac.uk/~garciaf/publications/Dismantling_Megamos_Crypto.pdf It talks about how the security flaws and how one can hack the system (academic presentation, not a DIY blueprint).
  6. I think the immobilizer will be a joke if your theory works. There's a "W" lead single wire communication between the immobilizer and the DME. I suspect the DME relies on some higher layer protocol exchange with the immobilizer, and not by getting power on some pins (which could easily be defeated like you proposed).
  7. Glad you got it sorted and thanks for the update.
  8. Yes, the signal is PWM. I don't have it now but the spring back in park position was mentioned in some Porsche literature. The purpose is to eliminate free play rattle at start up while the oil pressure is not there yet while cranking.
  9. No manual parking needed because once oil pressure is removed, it should spring back to its parked position.
  10. Thanks for the update. I've completely forgotten about this thread. The cranking does not sound right at all and I have no idea about the popping noise. Have you verified timing on both banks. Many cases of non-start after rebuild was due to wrong timing...ppl forgot to rotate the crank 360 before timing the other bank. The engine ends up having 2 cylinders on opposite bank going through the same compression stroke and will be hard to crank (in addition to running on only 3 cylinders).
  11. You may want to invest a little on diagnosing it a bit more because if it's just a cracked head, you may be able to repair the head (contact Len at info@hamheads.com He's THE expert in US http://hamheads.com/aboutus.php)
  12. How old is your water pump? It should be replaced every 4 or 5 yrs (some may even suggest shorter interval). A new belt may put more pressure on everything but that should not be a concern as the system is designed for a new belt. Also the tensioner governs the belt preasure so that helps maintaining the pressure even on an old belt (to a certain degree). $1k sounds about right for a shop.
  13. Have you opened up the key fob and check if the pill is secured? The next suspect would be the immobilizer ring signal pickup/circuit.
  14. Have you checked the wiring from pin D33 all the way to the start lock relay and make sure it's not broken or shorted? You said "Directly starter will cranks and engine work." Sounds like if you hot wire the starter, the engine does fire up? If the DME is immobilizing the car, it will NOT turn on the fuel pump (in addition to NOT activating the start lock relay) so the engine should not have fired up. If true, it sounds like you have a break in wire from D33. If the engine doesn't fire up even you make the starter turn, that sounds like the DME is immobilizing the car. Have you tried another key and is the immobilizer pill securely installed inside the key fob?
  15. Have you checked the clutch start interlock microswitch? You can just unplug it and short the two wires together and try again.
  16. You may also want to check the resistance of the solenoid. Should be something like 11 to 13 ohm if memory serves. After that and swapping, the only thing left would be wiring.
  17. That one (that has a small spring) is for valve lift. Your code is complaining about the timing one, the one closest to the cam chains.
  18. There are two solenoids on each bank. One for timing and one for valve lift. Are you sure you swapped the right one?
  19. Yes, a lot of things need to be removed. You may also need to LOWER the engine (not dropping the engine). Support the engine bottom and remove the engine mount nuts, then you can lower the engine by a few inches and that creates all the space you need to work on top of the intake manifolds.
  20. A used one could be a good option. There are CA approved after market cats for $500 each but I couldn't find any for New York (assuming you're in New York as shown in your sig).
  21. If it's P0430, it's unlikely to be related to lowering the engine. It could be related to battery disconnect though, which triggered the catalytic tests to be re-run and that cat is marginal.
  22. Good. I think it's not related to the MAF sensor then. It would be nice if the shop can perform a smoke test to check for intake air leak and crankcase air leak. Sticky lifter(s) are entirely possible but so are sticky injector(s).
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