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Showing results for tags 'starting'.
Found 6 results
Two problems which may be connected 1) Car starts first couple of turns most of the time.......then sometimes wont start for 5 or 6 seconds of churning.....doesnt seem to matter if its hot or cold...... 2) at low revs ( below 2300) the engine seems to "hunt" and revs up and down about 200 rpm. It makes it very uncomfortable in traffic. Had it tested static and driving and no fault codes for either problem. Any suggestions much appreciated.
Hi guys, I'm new to the site so please be patient with me? (Also grammar isn't my strong point) So, I've owned my 2003 996 carrera for the past 2 years and for the most part its been trouble free. I got it with 110,000 miles its now got 130,000. Maybe 5-6 times over the last year it's started misfiring as I come to a stop, it starts up after maybe 2 minutes and misfires for 30-40seconds, then runs fine. The last two times this has happened the display has said low oil pressure as it's been misfiring, but then starts running normally with no message? Any how just before Christmas I started the car as normal and left it ticking over but got held up,so it was probably idling for 40mins. I heard a loud misfiring sound and it cut out. I thought it had run out of fuel so I put a gallon in and it went up to a quarter. I tried starting it but it turns over but won't start. I have since had it towed in to a garage and they have plugged the computer into it and no faults are showing. Can anyone help as the garage isn't to sure? Thanks in advance Mileet P.S. it's a triptronic
Hello, Please have a look at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WD1b8naXgo On my car it only lasts for a couple seconds. This occurs perhaps 1 per 20 startups and I have a strong feeling that only after cold nights or during cold mornings (defining cold here as 40-50F). I drive this car on a daily basis. Would you consider this normal behaviour? Many are posting similar questions like mine but without a video it is hard to judge if it is fine and occurs because some oil flows past rings to combustion chamber due to Boxster engine layout. Also some are talking of white, some grayish and some blue smoke :-) My car is 996, 2004, 3.6L, around 90k miles. AOS, plugs, coils are brand new. Both exhaust and cats look like brand new when borescoping. Leak down test >96/100PSI each cylinder, does not consume oil or coolant. Oil level is very close to maximum level, perhaps a tad lower than maximum. Using Motul X-Cess 8100 5w40. Thank you!
Found another issue I'm trying to sort out. My Cayenne is optioned with Entry & Drive, however when I purchased the vehicle a few weeks ago the former owner did not have the dummy plastic Entry and Drive key. I ordered a new key and it came in the other day. The remotes are both working correctly, the vehicle is locking and unlocking like it should, all door buttons work on the outside. The problem appears to be the ignition cylinder. When the plastic E&D key is put into the lock, it goes in OK all the way, but has very hard resistance turning one position to the right although it does go. It will not turn to the start position to start the vehicle. From center it will turn to the left with no problem and then back to center OK. I've also noted the key can be removed in the "on" position where it would normally not be able to. Both flip keys work the cylinder flawlessly in all positions. Am I doing something wrong here or could I just have a faulty cylinder? My first thought was can the cylinder be lubed and if so what would be the correct lubricant to use? Don't want to shoot it with something that will zorch the lock & then be towed to the kindly dealer. I'm sure the plastic key is fine, it was a new Porsche part in the bag. Thanks Eric
(edited 17/May/2012 - changed from question to the procedure I followed) Hi Guys, In case you're ever in the same situation, below is the procedure I used for re-starting my 996 3.4L TIP following about 3 months elapsed of dashboard work where all of the following items were removed and now re-installed with the battery disconnected for the whole 3mths. Radio A/C Control Passenger Airbag Drivers Airbag Steering Wheel / Clock Spring Combination Switch Instrument Pod I broke the re-start into the following 3 steps which I've detailed below: Checks prior to starting engine Checks at engine start Checks post engine start You will need a Durametric code reader or similar for this procedure. 1. Checks prior to engine start Pre-condition - everything back together and battery fully charged and connected. Key at Accessory Position: Radio - enter the security code / test all functions Key at "ON" Position Perform DME adaption per workshop manual (WSM) procedure Passenger Airbag - read error codes/clear codes Drivers Airbag - read error codes/clear codes Steering Wheel - check horn operation Combination Switch - test turn signals, wipers Instrument Pod - test lamps and dial functions with Durametric Re-teach Power Window Stop Positions Re-teach Sunroof Stop Positions Set clock Read out all error codes from all controls units and clear codes Check for instrument warning lamps remaining on that shouldn't be 2. Checks at Engine Start Start Car: Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine - to pre-circulate oil (I did 2 x 10 sec bursts with 20seconds in-between) Reinstall fuel pump fuse Start engine Check for instrument warning lamps remaining on that shouldn't be (I had only the spoiler and seat belt lamps remain on which is fine) Allow to idle for 5-10mins to warm engine and complete DME adaptation 3. Checks post Engine Start (Driving) Check spoiler light goes out once moving. Perform tiptronic adaptation per WSM procedure Steering Wheel / Clock Spring - check horn, and tip switch operation A/C Control - test all functions - cool and hot Combination Switch - test OBC and Cruise Check for any post driving error codes Luckily for me there were no problems and I'm now enjoying the driving once again. Thanks