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xmac

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Everything posted by xmac

  1. xmac
    Can someone direct me to where the oil flow diagram below came from or if there is an equivalent? Trying to find a better resolution image without the writing, color, etc... - thanks!
  2. xmac
    Good points in that thread. 1. disconnect and reconnect the connectors on the oil pressure sending unit in case it is corrosion 2. disconnect, clean the connection points and re-install engine ground strap visible with the passenger rear tire removed (picture below with green arrow) 3. You can make an oil pressure port on your oil filter housing (new one costs $30 and includes a filter) edit: green arrow
  3. xmac
    As always, your replies are excellent. What about dielectric grease? Yes or no? On the boots only? On the connectors? Not a fan of dielectric grease there so I put them in dry. The grease will eventually make the rubber soft and spongey. I think the original intent of the grease was to make sure the rubber didn't fuse itself to the spark plug ceramic and prevent corrosion on the contact. The grease also inevitably turns into a dirt magnet. If you carefully twist the coilpack after removing the retaining screws, you should be fine when having to remove it again.
  4. xmac
    Not sure if it is water intrusion nor whether this is the exact cause of the CEL. They have three protruding rubber rings that are supposed to keep the elements out, but who knows what condition they are in. No tools required to change the boot. You need to twist at the base closest to the coil housing to get the rubber to break the seal and then it should snap out when pulling on the boot. Re-install the boot and push in until you feel/hear a click. Also, I find it easier to disconnect the coilpack wiring prior to removing the fasteners holding them in place. Make sure you also get a solid click when reconnecting. The large rubber boots on the end of the connector get in the way and make it difficult to snap back in place. I usually peel or slide the rubber back, snap the connector in place, then slide the rubber cover back into place.
  5. xmac
    creekman, The typical hack only shows you how to connect to the existing wiring in the steering wheel & cluster. With your conversion and point-to-point custom wiring you had to do, it is difficult to say where it broke. However with some schematics, there should be a way to figure out how to reconnect to the data.
  6. xmac
    You have two independent problems. The oil pressure sender is attached to the passenger side (Bank 2) camshaft cover and is electric, no vacuum connected to it. My previous comments on temp were based on you posting about 210C temp when hot (post #6). Now that you have provided more info, it circles back to the oil pressure sender. You can either replace it or figure out a way to attach a mechanical gauge to verify the actual pressure.
  7. xmac
    You can test the resistance of the coilpack with a simple multimeter. With the leads on the outer of 3 pins, you should get about 0.7 Ohm. What happens sometimes is a rip or pinhole develops in the rubber insulating boot and it arcs into the head. I've pulled coilpacks where people have tried to fix it with electrical tape but the output voltage is much higher than tape is designed for. About $15 for a new boot or about $40 for the whole unit.
  8. xmac
    For cars without the 4th stalk on the lower left of the steering wheel, there is a way to activate it and install the 4th stalk to let you see outside temp, avg mpg, avg speed, miles to empty and I think a speed gong to let you know when you're driving over a pre-set limit. You can also activate it and put a switch somewhere within reach that lets you scroll through the information screens. Sorry I can't help the OP's question.
  9. xmac
    That provides some clues. I thought you had low oil pressure even at cold. I'm thinking that it is more likely a temperature issue than oil system. At a cold startup, you should be at full 4-5bar which you are seeing. If you rev the engine, does the oil pressure move up with RPM's or does it stay at 1/2 bar? Have you removed the front bumper and cleaned the radiators? Was the water pump replaced during the engine work? _____________ Incidentally, for your P0140 check engine light: If you can hear the air pump running at cold startup, it is likely your combination valve (#3) in this picture, the vacuum line connecting to it, solenoid that controls it or one of the other vacuum lines is disconnected or mis-connected. Do you hear the air pump running at cold startup? You can also open the rear trunk lid and touch it after a cold startup to see if it is running. Let's work on the oil problem first.
  10. xmac
    Also: Ashai does not = Ahsai
  11. xmac
    After oil draining, there should only be some residual oil. Look for anything other than oil like metal, plastic, RTV, silicone bits. Once you have that off, it is easy to inspect the oil pickup without removing it. You will also see two internal AOS units inside which behave as oil de-foamers. Might be worth a shot to remove and check that those do not have obstructions (about $35 each to replace). Here is what you will see:
  12. xmac
    Clearly, you were aware that there were problems when you bought it. You have way too any variables and history in this engine to figure this out quickly or even at all. A few things come to mind: 1. The AOS is taking oil vapors out of the crankcase gases, not a significant amount of oil should be going through it. It is normal to have some oil there, although it sounds like you have not run the engine much. Just to be clear, did you replace it with a new one? 2. Too much sealant used when engine was rebuilt and oil sump pickup is clogged ($14 for Loctite 5900 sealant) Remove oil pan after draining the oil and visually inspect pickup for debris and any other debris in the pan. Use a light amount of sealant when re-installing and let it cure for at least 24 hours before refilling with oil. 3. Remove and cut the oil filter open to look for clues as to what type, if any, debris is inside your engine report back
  13. xmac
    Yes, you have to remove it and no there is not enough room. That is why I recommended that you do the easy engine mounts first (20% effort fixes 80% or more of the problem). If you really want to replace the one on the transaxle, then you are in for at least $1000 clutch job and possibly the IMS bearing since you have already the tranny out of the car. One recommended thread to look through: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/28781-diy-for-transmission-mount-rr/?p=180226#entry180226
  14. xmac
    It would have been that easy if they had made it a bracket attached to the tranny:
  15. xmac
    The engine mounts are one of the easiest DIYs. The 996 DIY section will show you how to remove the air intake box (air filter replacement) and there is a section on proper/approved engine support locations or do a search. You will also need to unbolt and remove the cold start emissions air pump ("secondary air injection pump") mounted to the left of the engine bay close to the left side motor mount. There are two smaller M8 bolts on the top side of each mount and there is a larger M12 that is accessed from underneath. Replace one mount at a time and tighten the M8's to 18 lbs-ft, the large nut to 60 lbs-ft. I would start there before the tranny mount. Nothing to do with the problem you are seeing but if you are going this far and just bought the car, I would replace the air filter and serpentine belt and check all of the belt pulleys for excessive play. You can also clean the throttle body butterfly. In addition, the vents on the bottom side of the air pump can be cleaned with a rag (it picks up a lot of lint, hair, and junk)
  16. xmac
    I think you are talking about replacing the whole CV axle not the front differential driveshaft. Pelican has a pretty good write-up: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/41-TRANS-Replacing_CV_Joints/41-TRANS-Replacing_CV_Joints.htm The hardest part is removing the large nut holding the axle onto the hub which will be 80% of the job. I like to loosen it slightly with the wheels on the ground prior to taking things apart (wheel center cap removed). Make sure you use a new axle nut and tighten it to spec. I believe it is 340 ft-lbs, so the right tools are needed.
  17. xmac
    I noticed that the part number for the e-gas throttle body was superseded to a 997 part for the Bosch throttle body. The old part being 99660511501 and new 99760511500. Are they interchangeable without needing a DME update? Mac
  18. xmac
    I've had an issue after disconnecting my battery where the mileage on the car in the odometer displayed either 599,999 or 999,999 miles after reconnecting the battery. This is the procedure I used to get it back to normal: Put the key in the ignition. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Turn the key to position 1. Then turn the key to the off position, leave key inserted. Then hook up the battery cable and tighten properly. Turn the key to position 1 and the display should be back to normal. You may have to twist on the instrument cluster knob to change units. To switch between km and miles, if display is in km: With the ignition on, hold the instrument cluster button (clock looking button on the left ) turned to the left for about 5 seconds.
  19. xmac
    Good volley. There are certainly several items I would like to take care of on my car that I haven't, so I hear you. As you say, it is not an abnormal finding. I am sure you could run with your existing AOS for thousands more miles and be just fine too. I have to say that before my AOS change, there was heavy oiling of my plenum, at least what could be cleaned inside the "T" section where the throttle body is attached. I removed my throttle body a few days ago after a little over 14 months of running with a new AOS and it was just a very light film coating. I replaced the AOS preventatively since I was trying to avoid a "wait until it fails" where it may quietly damage cats and/or O2 sensors and worst case chocolate milkshake coolant surprise.
  20. xmac
    I have a fairly new AOS and still see a light amount of oil in the intake plenum. You don't need to see giant puffs of smoke to know that with 12+ years of time in service that it is a good time to replace it.
  21. xmac
    I noticed the dealer price for a MAF is $500-$600 when the same part number in a Bosch box is ~$200. Is there something special about the one the dealers source? Is there some value add or is it simply demand driven to the age of these cars? Based on reading several posts, stick with the model you have in your car when purchasing a new one. Posting this info in case others need it: 99660612300 non-egas a.k.a cable throttle (Bosch Part # 0280217007) 99660612400 e-gas or M620 option C4's and others (Bosch Part #0280218009) 99660612500 or 99660612501 newer egas version from 2002 up but may require firmware update of DME (Bosch Part #0280218055) both numbers are stamped on the side of the MAF
  22. xmac
    Since we are on the subject of the LN instructions... I want to ask about STEP 16 on the use of Loctite bearing mount. Is this needed only if the IMS shaft has some ovality, or is it recommended no matter what so the outer race doesn't spin relative to the IMS shaft? I have seen some pictures of bearings that were spinning inside the shaft and you can see the wear marks on the outer race. The next hurdle is selecting the proper bearing mount since each one is tuned for a specific gap between the outer race and tube. The instructions have no specification for ovality and only say to consider using bearing mount. When looking at the Bentley Publishers IMS replacement youtube video (time=5:38), there appears to be grease on the outer race just prior to hammering it in which surprised me and seems to contradict the instructions (I realize the LN Instructions supersede all else). BTW, I asked LN the same question but since I am not an authorized installer, they will not answer any of my questions.
  23. xmac
    ...$79.99 is what a local shop charged me a few months ago for my SUV on a Hunter Hawkeye table.This is SF Bay Area pricing which is likely different. For $200, my race alignment shop will add weight in the driver's seat to match my weight and the steering wheel is perfectly aligned at 12 o'clock with the alignment report showing both left/right sides having matching numbers, even if more adjustments are required to get there. There is something tricky to it in that they have to align the steering angle sensor correctly or you may get an error light may come on. They connect to the OBD connector to get a real-time readout to find zero and lock it prior to making adjustments. edit: fixed typo
  24. xmac
    Extremely useful post, however, I feel like I missed the punch line. I tried to create a very simplified summary of what happened and problem resolution: 1. A pre-IMS swap locking of bank1 somehow with the engine actually at tdc bank2 2. IMS swapped with out issue 3. Realizing before reinstalling engine of the TDC mistake, turning engine counter-clockwise to get bank1 tdc (overlap), removing and reinstalling chain 1-3 tensioner 4. Re-installing engine/gearbox 5. Immediately would not idle well and stalled along with P1531(Camshaft Adjustment Bank1) code 6. O2 sensor continuity/voltage checks and DME continuity checks 6b. Used propane torch to heat up O2 sensors and confirmed no voltage induced 7. Replaced both pre-cat O2 sensors (same result) 8. Cleared codes on DME (more errors including misfires detected) 9. Bank 2 intake noted to have been removed for access to third A/C bolt along with bank 1 spark plug removal for inspection of Cyl #4 (incorrect cylinder #'s?) 10. More voltage checks of O2 sensors, more DME continuity checks, O2 sensor voltages 0.44V 11. Unplugged MAF and engine ran much better 12. Verified O2 sensor connections 13. No more errors?? edit: added step 6b. per post #88
  25. xmac
    Not a fan of "get-by fixes," but I understand that sometimes you have to do some field triage on a wound. In this case, the patient is already dead (torn rubber). That means the grease in there is already contaminated with very fine dust that is picked up while driving along with moisture. Not all greases are compatible with each other and can create a mess or make matters worse by using an incompatible grease. You will spend more time finding the "right one" and a bunch of MacGyvering work will likely take longer than popping the tie rod and replacing it. The tie rod is about $50 and a new alignment is ~$80. I guarantee you will spend more money getting a boat ready for the season. If you are only going to drive a few more weeks and few hundred miles before replacing it, just leave it alone and go enjoy your boat but get it fixed. If you are trying to "get by" to next winter, this is not one of those items you put off. Just my opinion.
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