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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. DBJoe996
    I pull my release and then walk back there and lift the engine lid with my fingers. It doesn't pop open and up like the front lid. It doesn't have anything to do with the strut, that just holds it up. Sounds like yours may need a bit of lubrication on the hood release mechanism.
  2. DBJoe996
    On the back right side of the engine are the oil pressure sender unit and the oil heater/cooler sitting on top of the engine. Possibly one of those two are leaking oil. Head gaskets rarely if never fail on the 996 engine. If the oil seems to be all underneath the engine, check and make sure the oil filter is tight. The mayo in the oil filler tube is normal for a car driven in cold weather and not warmed up enough. I don't know why you would get codes for #1,2,3 cylinders that are on the left bank, unless you are having two different problems at one time. How old are the plugs/coils?
  3. DBJoe996
    Thanks for coming back and sharing what fixed it. Good luck with the next issues.
  4. DBJoe996
    The AOS is a piece of garbage square plastic thing located on the back of the engine behind the left (drivers side) intake manifold. Total PITA to get to it, much less change any hoses attached to it, unless the engine is out. Coolant runs through it and there is a diaphragm inside to separate the oil side from the coolant water side. A faulty AOS is not repairable. Just have to replace the whole thing. Here is a diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10
  5. DBJoe996
    Go back to the last thing you did...swap out LED bulbs for standard bulbs. Some circuits do not like the LED bulbs and this could be one of them. Put your old bulbs back in and see what happens (because it wasn't acting wonky before you made the swap).
  6. DBJoe996
    Maybe this will help http://911car.blogspot.com/2010/06/porsche-996-carrera-34l-o2-sensors.html Remember, the right side exhaust pipe is Bank 1, and the left side exhaust pipe is Bank 2. There are four O2 sensors, pre and post cat, and they are color coded black and grey connectors. So there will be two black and gray connectors for each bank pre and post O2 sensors on each side of the engine bay.
  7. DBJoe996
    I am pretty sure the Bentley Manual for your car has the complete wiring diagram. Search Amazon for Bentley Manual for your model/year.
  8. DBJoe996
    The first thing you should get is the Bentley Service Manual. Step by step instructions w/pictures https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Carrera-Type-Service-Manual/dp/0837617103
  9. DBJoe996
    https://web.archive.org/web/20141221022724/http://www.imsporschesettlement.com/ Class action settlement, but you are 4 years out of time.
  10. DBJoe996
    Obviously something is wrong somewhere. When I have my Durametric hooked up and activate the Vario-cam on either bank, the engine runs rough but does not stall the engine. It does seem as if one, or both, of the Vario-cam activation solenoids is stuck. Maybe someone with more experience can weigh in. I don't know if this works but you might try turning the ignition on, not start the engine, and while listening underneath the engine where the solenoids are, have someone trigger the vario-cam on one of the banks and see/feel if the solenoid clicks.
  11. DBJoe996
    Having done an AOS replacement on my car, you cannot access the AOS coolant lines without removing the Bank 1 intake. No way to get to those hoses and clamps, even with the motor dropped down to the lowest point. You might as well just replace the AOS while you're at it. The coolant lines #12 and #13 - #12 comes from the water pump and #13 crosses over and goes down underneath the engine. See diagram here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=104-10 For a temporary fix, or total bypass of the coolant to the AOS, one just needs to plug the two hoses or find a way to connect them together.
  12. DBJoe996
    I remember someone finding that the clamps on the rubber pieces for the intake plenum had gotten loose and it was misaligned creating a vacuum leak. So while you have the TB out, check the clamps and plenum, #12 here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=107-10
  13. DBJoe996
    I have heard about $1500 but with a Tip it might be a little bit more. This is the best source and they offer the Solution https://lnengineering.com/ If you search on the website under Dealers you will find a list of certified installers. Might be one in your location.
  14. DBJoe996
    Pull your throttle body and give it a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner. Remove the idle control valve and clean it out with carb cleaner, Q-tips and cycle it with a 9V battery. It should be shiny clean inside. Once it is all back together, do a TB/idle control calibration...turn ignition key on (not start), wait one minute, then turn key off. The reason I suggest this is your idle is all over the place from the graph. Have you checked the oil filler tube for cracks? Vacuum leaks on the intake system? Following this, use the Durametric and check the cam deviation values, the use the Activations and trigger the VarioCam system on both banks. Let use know what happens.
  15. DBJoe996
    One other thing came to mind besides what I mentioned above. A faulty fuel pressure regulator can cause the symptoms you described. Once you get the CEL codes post them up.
  16. DBJoe996
    Many things come to mind: fuel pump, fuel pump relay, clogged filter sock on fuel pump, MAF sensor, faulty crankshaft position sensor, low battery voltage (since it is stored for weeks)...it would really help to know things like recent maintenance, spark plugs, coil packs and so on...
  17. DBJoe996
    Go to the nearest auto parts store and buy an OBDII reader for less than $50. Plug it in the OBDII port and read the codes that have caused the CEL to come on, and blink. Hopefully that will tell you exactly what is wrong. Post code(s) and we will try to help you track down the issue(s). The engine does not have to be running to read the codes, just turn the ignition switch to ON, the first position.
  18. DBJoe996
    I'm confused. You say the car is a C2 but then you say the transaxle fluid and transfer case, and also transmission. Which one are you talking about? Do you have a C4 with AWD? Glittery shavings in oil is never a good thing. Best to have them check it out and give you a diagnosis. You might need this company - http://www.gboxweb.com/product.html
  19. DBJoe996
    So basically you ran your car out of gas, it died for lack of fuel, and then you put 2 gallons of gas in and it won't run right. Why did you not fill up the tank? What octane and how old was the 2 gallons of gas you put in the tank? Possible problems - all the sediment in the bottom of your tank clogged up the fuel filter and maybe got past the filter and clogged up your injectors; the fuel pump depends on fuel for lubrication and now your fuel pump doesn't work right; or, you need to fill up the tank and run the engine for a bit because when it ran out of fuel it confused the DME by creating a very lean condition and it is now trying to compensate by setting a very rich mixture. Fill up and reset the DME by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 10-15 minutes. Following all that, do an E-gas calibration. Turn ignition key to on (but not start). Wait one minute, turn key off then back on to start. CEL on or any codes thrown?
  20. DBJoe996
    I'm with Ahsai on this one. You probably need a new starter since it happens when you hit the starter. The pinion gear flies out and engages the flywheel. That is called the starter bendix. If it hangs it will make a grinding noise. Get a brand new Bosch starter, not a rebuilt starter.
  21. DBJoe996
    I would start by checking the voltage to the MAF sensor first. Disconnect the wire and put the ignition key on, check voltage. If none, check the wiring harness connections on the right side of the engine compartment. Disconnect them and clean with electrical cleaner.
  22. DBJoe996
    https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Clutch-Bearing-Replacement-35BD219DUM/dp/B007YAJFIW https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-35BD5222DUM18A-NTN.php Found these two. Cannot explain the price differential. I just did a Google search on the part number.
  23. DBJoe996
    Hate to say it but it is probably one of the microswitches in the door handle and latch mechanisms. PITA to check them and there are no separate P/N's for just the microswitches.
  24. DBJoe996
    Are you saying the odometer light and door lights never go off? When I close the door and don't lock it the interior lights stay on for a period of time, then dim and go out. Is it only the interior door lights and not the overhead map lights, or maybe you don't have those on a cab?
  25. DBJoe996
    Does the engine RPM's increase when you engage the AC? Perhaps it is more an idle speed issue than an electrical issue. Have you ever cleaned out the idle control valve?
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