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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. The electrical portion of the ignition switch is well known for all sorts of electrical gremlins. Not a good way to test it. Mostly people just replace it. Since you replaced the fuse and did not start the car and the seat functions worked...then you started the car and the seat does not function...maybe the ignition switch.
  2. One other thing I've thought of....I don't care about the memory seat and I'd love to eliminate the memory module. But without being able to move the seat I cannot get to the seat rail bolts, and thus I cannot access the seat memory module. Passenger seat works fine, so what I would like to do is replace the drivers seat wiring with a harness from a passenger seat. Have not found one and no separate part number exists. Stuck on that one.
  3. By the way, there is no way to manually adjust the seat. My drivers seat refuses to move. The fuse is good and I have checked every wire under the seat, both power and ground. My Durametric software can communicate with the seat memory module and no faults are found. I have spent hours under the seat to try and figure it out, but I have not found the problem. Fortunately the seat position is exactly where I want it. I suspect that either the seat memory module is faulty or the memory buttons on the door sill are screwed up somehow. This is perhaps a better picture of the white seat clamp...pull the center pin down and it releases the front of the seat bottom so you can lift it up. And the memory module wiring.
  4. Unfortunately the drivers seat is problematic. There are the seat switches for moving the seat, the memory switches on the door sill, and the seat memory module under the front part of the seat. There is a mass of wiring under the seat. More than likely the wiring under the seat is shorted because one of the wires got caught in the seat rails. And...if it is blowing the seat fuse then bonus...you cannot move the seat to access the bolts to remove the seat to check underneath. First step, reach way under the seat from behind and feel the wires and move them around. I know this is blind but simply moving the wires may eliminate the short. Then, if this fails, you need to lift up the seat bottom. There are two white plastic clips under the front of the seat. You pull down the pins and that releases the white clips that hold the seat bottom on the seat rail. Then you carefully lift up and pull forward the seat bottom. Careful here because there are wires attached to the seat bottom. You want to just prop up the seat bottom to expose the wiring underneath. Then you will have to see if you can find where a wire is shorted or stuck in the seat rail.
  5. Have to agree with Loren. Sounds like something is wrong. I'm in Florida, the heat is many times over 100 and my engine compartment fan rarely runs. It might be difficult to find a switched source of 12V with sufficient amps to run the engine compartment fan all the time. The engine compartment fan is controlled by a sensor between the intake manifolds, and conditions are monitored by the ECU, so the fan could run even after the car is turned off. Start with cleaning the radiators, putting in a low temp thermostat, drain, flush and refill the coolant. Only Porsche coolant and 50/50 mix with distilled water for a refill is recommended. Exactly how hot is your car running?
  6. I used 3M Emblem Adhesive about 10 years ago....still there. If I remember correctly I used some mineral spirits and a plastic wedge to clean up the old adhesive.
  7. Yes for cable operated hood latches. Yes monitored by the alarm system.
  8. I would say this is entirely normal. On a level surface, there is a tendency for all cars with an automatic transmission to creep forward due to the friction of fluid in the torque converter. On an incline there is enough gravity pull backwards to overcome the fluid friction in the torque converter.
  9. ^^ Yes. The infrared interior sensors are the two black eye looking things in the overhead console.
  10. Actually it sounds about right for a dealership. This is not a simple job of pulling the drain plug and then refilling. It is a rather complicated process with specific parameters that need to be met during the refilling. And it involves an experienced knowledgeable mechanic to do it right, so you are paying for that as well. I've heard of people having significant problems with tiptronics after someone didn't do the job right. So what is your reason for changing the transmission fluid? Age/mileage? Hard shifting?
  11. Codes are for emissions related stuff. The dashlight should stay off. You are simply cutting the power to the spoiler. The other thing to try is remove the spoiler up and down relays in Relay Support 2, under the rear carpet.
  12. That doesn't make much sense. The coolant lines going to the AOS are under constant pressure from the coolant system from the connection on the water pump, so they have to either be internally blocked or connected together to make a loop bypass. The coolant lines to the AOS help heat up the AOS during low temp running/first start up to assist with air/oil separation.
  13. 1) I am surprised that you could drag up this old thread. When Loren closes a thread it is closed and the debate is over. 2) You give no history of the car/year/previous work done (such as water pump, thermostat, or anything else), so it is difficult to make a recommendation. You may have original Porsche coolant. It will be green in color. The new Porsche coolant is orange. If mixed, it may appear slightly brownish. 3) I agree with JFP....add some distilled water at this point in time. Do not add some other type of coolant because you don't know what is in there and you could have problems. 4) Porsche coolant for Porsche cars. Don't go all cheap on this one. When you get a chance, do a complete coolant flush and refill with only Porsche coolant, 50/50 mix with distilled water. Have the system flushed and vacuum refilled. Due to the nature of flat six engines, if it is not done right hot spots can develop in the engine and major damage can result. The heater core is higher than the rest of the system, so it is difficult to "burp" all of the air out of the system. A vacuum fill will insure that all of the air is removed when refilling. If you are not up to the task, best left to a professional. Make sure you have the latest upgraded coolant cap ending in 04. P/N is stamped on the cap. The old ones leaked.
  14. I think the reason dporto asked the question is because the oil pressure sending unit is notoriously inaccurate. Noises and tapping are a symptom of low oil pressure and could be caused by any number of things. Only a calibrated oil pressure gauge can tell you the precise oil pressure. That being said, a number of factors come into play. Age of oil, oil filter being used, and whether the oil pressure relief valve and spring have been replaced with the upgraded versions. A fresh oil change and filter change is absolutely necessary before diagnosis of something else being wrong. 5 at cold start is normal. A drop in pressure after warming up is also normal. Doesn't sound like you are out of spec, but again, a number of factors have to be accounted for.
  15. Why do you want it to be the DME? There are a lot of other factors in play, coolant sensor, ambient air temp sensor, interior air sensor, settings on the HVAC system, engine compartment temp sensor. Are both fans acting the same, i.e., no low speed? It is normal for both of the low speed fans to turn on when AC is on. There are certain conditions that have to be met before the low speed fans kick in without the AC on. I'll try to look them up. Got Durametric? You can test the fans with Durametric.
  16. Coolant sensor #27 here M96.01/02/03 Oil Pump M96.04 WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  17. You have to drop the engine to the crossmember to remove the intake manifolds. There really is no other way. You also have to remove the AC compressor and lay it to one side. Leave the AC lines attached. Yes, once you use a turkey baster (not your wife's but one dedicated in the shop) to empty the power steering fluid, twist the filler tube by hand and it will release. And things others explain, like "remove the intake manifold bolts", doesn't actually explain how hard it is to reach and unbolt the last remaining manifold bolt next to the firewall. Or how to get to the third AC compressor bolt Why would you remove the passenger side intake manifold for vacuum lines? There is only one vacuum line that goes through the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. That one is simple.
  18. Like JFP said...take it to a pro. The compressors are pretty robust. It is the electro-magnetic clutch and friction plate that take a beating. One simple test is to engage the AC with the engine running and visually check the compressor to see if the pulley is spinning. Do not touch it with the engine running. In fact, check all the pulleys and belt at the same time.
  19. RMS=rear main seal IMSB=bearing No such thing as a "RMS bearing" I would have them bleed the hydraulic system to the clutch slave cylinder again. No cable adjustments or other adjustments. Did they install the correct OE master cylinder? I have heard of some aftermarket master cylinders causing this exact problem. Did they install the upgraded versions of the release bearing and clutch fork?
  20. Since your system was completely empty, you have to go with the total technical data amounts, not just what is calculated for the condensers.
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