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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. DBJoe996
    This is NOT a part to go cheap on. Only get a real OE Porsche window regulator. I have heard and read many stories about cheap window regulators breaking after less than a year, cables snapping, grinding and so on. No, you cannot finagle a way to tension the cables. It's a Porsche, pony up the cost of the OE Porsche window regulator and be done with this job. I do believe there is a company in Texas that you can send it to for a rebuild with much higher quality parts. I'll see if I can find that info. But you will have to wait out the shipping and rebuilding time.
  2. DBJoe996
    There is a threaded "key" that goes from the door lock to the door latch mechanism. I've detailed some of the work here DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...
  3. DBJoe996
    OE Porsche Manual Transmission oil 75W-90 I have read that other people have tried different brands of 75W-90 and then develop strange shifting and noises. Then they take the car to a Porsche specialist to diagnose the problems. The first thing they do is drain and refill with the Porsche manual transmission oil and the problems go away. You can get some at a Porsche dealer or many of the online Porsche suppliers.
  4. DBJoe996
    What are you doing to the door lock? Is it not working? I recently replaced my drivers side door latch mechanism and new handle microswitch. Boy, that was a job!
  5. DBJoe996
    My 99 C2 3.4L engine is bone stock. I do my own oil changes. I pull the drain plug and let it drain overnight, then slightly jack up the left rear of the car so the remaining oil that pools in the sump drains out. Put in drain plug. Fill oil filter with oil and install. Then I put in 10.25 quarts of oil, Liqui-Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf High Tech. Comes in a 5.28 U.S. Quart size (5 L) bottle. I've done this so many times over the years. I always end up right on the full mark before starting the engine. I don't burn off much oil between oil changes. My owners manual says the capacity w/filter is 8.7QT/8.25 L. I find I need more to be at the high mark on the dipstick. The manual also says that the difference between the high and low mark on the dipstick is 1.6 QTS/1.5L. I always keep mine near the high mark. More oil, more oil and cooling capacity. I do not track or run the car hard so I'm not sloshing the oil around. 145K miles, 6 month oil changes, so I must be doing something right.
  6. DBJoe996
    One simple thing to try is with the door open (and the window did not drop), push on the top of the glass and see if can be pushed downwards. If yes, bad window regulator. The cable in the window regulator gets old and develops some slack. If not, bad door handle microswitch.
  7. DBJoe996
    Blue loctite...just a drop or two will do. Don't know the torque..just tight plus a pull is what I did.
  8. DBJoe996
    I can confirm that all of the above is correct...triple square XZN bit. Do not try to use a torx bit in there because it will tear it up.
  9. DBJoe996
    Bank 1 VarioCam acutator. The greenish gray material is from an internal O-ring in the variocam actuator. Would also explain the sluggish action on the Bank 1 cam.
  10. DBJoe996
    No, it is not easy. First step is to vacuum/remove all remaining refrigerant. This requires a special machine. Second, you will need to remove the front bumper, wheel, wheel liner and underbody panels. You could have an AC shop do the first step, then DIY the pipe replacement, then go back to the AC shop for a refrigerant recharge.
  11. DBJoe996
    I do my own oil/filter changes. I did run Mobil 1 0W-40 for a long time. Last oil change I changed over to Liqui-Moly Leichtlauf SAE 5W-40 and my engine is so much happier. Seems to run better (seat of the pants) and quieter. The reason was I am at 146K mileage and a bit heavier weight oil seems necessary. It is on the approved Porsche list for our cars. Might ask the dealer about it. I think the Porsche oil released for our cars is a 5W-50.
  12. DBJoe996
    It sounds like you have no oil pressure. Do not run your engine! You need to investigate your engine and lack of oil pressure. What type of oil are you running? When did you last do an oil change? Have you manually pulled the dipstick to check your oil level? What type of oil filter are you running? Have you done anything to your engine lately? This does not sound like a problem with your sender unit....it sounds like your engine is lacking any oil pressure and it will seize if you run it again, or spin the crank bearings, or seize a piston in the cylinder. You must do everything you can to find out what is wrong before running the engine again. Maybe the oil pump hex drive has broken. Maybe the oil pressure relief valve is stuck. Maybe your oil filter is clogged. Maybe your oil pickup tube in the oil sump is clogged with debris.
  13. DBJoe996
    A quick Google search for P1397 got this And you need to check your wiring harness for rodent damage. Depends on where it was sitting for 7 years, but it is entirely possible that something has chewed up your wiring....somewhere.
  14. DBJoe996
    Are you sure about the coolant level? Did you open the cap and check? I agree with the suggestion to replace the coolant expansion tank level sensor. It is outside the coolant tank so you won't lose any coolant. 215F is pretty darn high. How are you getting the car that hot? Are your radiator fans working? Has the thermostat ever been replaced? What mix is your coolant and is it pink (the new type coolant)?
  15. DBJoe996
    The relay support group 2 in coupe is underneath the carpet on the shelf behind the seats. Not sure where it is in a Cab.
  16. DBJoe996
    Probably bad gas. 5 months is possibly too long for gas to sit without some stabilizer. Might consider flushing out the old gas and getting some new gas in there.
  17. DBJoe996
    Besides all the other microswitches external and internal to the door latch mechanism, there is one microswitch that sits on the top of the door handle hinge that signals when the door handle is pulled. You have to pull the door card off to get to it. Some pretty good information here DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM 996 Forum - DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed] - If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change...
  18. DBJoe996
    Where did you purchase the bearing and tool kit? I would contact the vendor to have them advise you what to do. Also, once the new bearing is extracted it is junk. I know more money to throw at the project, but do yourself a favor and get the LN IMS Solution and be done with it forever.
  19. DBJoe996
    What? You are using a wire to ground the starter solenoid and it works to start the motor? Something seems wrong with that. The starter is grounded by virtue that it is bolted to the engine block, which is grounded by a wire near the rear passenger wheel well. There is no separate ground for the solenoid to starter because the solenoid is bolted to the starter. Sorry, something here doesn't make sense.
  20. DBJoe996
    How do you know the AC relay is working? Did you take it out and test it? Suggestion - check all the fuses. There are several for AC and climate control system. Look at your fuse diagram inside the fuse panel. What happens if you put the climate control system on Auto and run the temp all the way down?
  21. DBJoe996
    My understanding is that it is glued on and requires a lot of force to pull it off. You could put the base in a vise and pull very very hard to remove. If you have to cut it away, you will destroy it. Might check on replacement cost of the handle. For instance, last time I checked, the center console leather lid was $700. Why are you doing this?
  22. DBJoe996
    It is a coolant line and goes back to the T-fitting next to the coolant tank.
  23. DBJoe996
    There are multiple functions of the temp gauge light, so to say it came on it could be low coolant level. Check your owners manual for the various conditions that set off the temp gauge light. If the rad fans are operational, then like JFP said, you could have an air pocket. Make sure your coolant level in the expansion tank is full, then manually lift the wire bail thing on the expansion tank and drive several heat/cool cycles to bleed out any air. Turn on the heater full blast as well. That will cycle coolant through the heater core as well.
  24. DBJoe996
    He is talking about the coolant hose fitting to the right of the oil filler tube. It is plastic and fragile. Most of the time you end up breaking it and the oil filler tube as well because of the close quarters.
  25. DBJoe996
    Take a C-clamp and push the back bushing in so it is flush with the bracket. If it doesn't move into a flush position it will be difficult or next to impossible to get it in. If I remember how I did it, hold the alternator up and get the left bolt started but not tight. Then rotate the alternator to the right and it will/should drop right in place. Do not hammer on the bracket, it will break easily. When you get the long right bolt in and torque it down, you will hear/feel a pop as the bushing moves into place.
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