Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. What I think is something is keeping the cluster "awake". I know you said there are no beeps when you lock the car. Have you done any recent work on the door latch or window regulator? Either side? I am thinking that maybe one of the door handle microswitches is faulty and the car does not know the door is closed thus causing the gauge cluster to stay on. Do your windows work properly, dropping when you open the door? Are you locking the car with the remote or with the key in door? Perhaps another thing to try is leave the center console up (unlatched) and lock the car to see if your ala
  2. Exactly which ones stay on constantly? Just the mileage? Normally, like mine, get in car, insert key in ignition, turn key to position one (not start) and cluster lights up showing mileage, digital speed, outside air temp and oil level count down. Does yours do that? If you are actually getting that much battery drain I would find the fuse for the gauge cluster and pull it until the next time you drive the car and until you get this sorted. I'm trying to figure out the logic of this but need more information.
  3. So the reverse lights stay on, sometimes even while in drive. It looks to me like it is a simple on/off switch controlled by the movement of the shift lever against the roller and microswitch. How do you know it is not the microswitch that is bad? You could pull the wire connectors and test the switch for on/off easily with an ohm meter, or test for on/off voltage with a volt meter. Simple enough test to see if maybe the switch is faulty.
  4. This is why I'm wondering...see the seal on a new OE AOS? It is not like yours, at least from what I can make out.
  5. Very difficult to make this out. Even with the face of the AOS on the block, it still looks like a few millimeters off from the pipe being in the hole. Stumped me. Cram a shop light back there and get some better light on the subject.
  6. Is that an OE Porsche AOS? I remember seeing a picture of the old style AOS with the small seal on it, but the new OE AOS has a different seal. I'll see if I can find a pic.
  7. JFP is right, lube it up. You can also use a smear of clean synthetic engine oil. It must go in and seat.
  8. You have either a short in the wiring or a bad microswitch on the door handle, or just a bad connection to the microswitch. Clean up all connections with electrical contact cleaner.
  9. You have removed the nuts from the motor mounts so you can drop the engine (with support) down to the cross-member...right? You have got to remove or disconnect most of the hoses and lines on that side of the engine in order to get the intake out. Even the AOS coolant hose. This is an extremely complex, intrusive and tedious job. I pulled my entire rear bumper and heat shields on both sides so I would not damage them lowering the engine down to the crossmember. The mufflers on either side would have bowed out the heat shields and bumper and probably, if not done, would have resulted in p
  10. All I remember is that I removed the bolts from the left intake manifold and then moved it over to get the rear plenum out. Actually, did not have to totally remove the rear plenum, just moved the intake manifold over and removed. Just remember the rear plenum has a vacuum line attached that is a real pain to reach. Good luck!
  11. And pull the panels on both sides of the battery. Check the heater core hoses for any signs of a leak, because coolant could pool in the drainage areas under the panels and the smell could enter through the cabin filter intake. Good time to check your drains under there as well.
  12. Aside from a cracked head (which you do not want), there are really only two other places where coolant and oil can mix. One is the air oil separator (AOS) and the other is the heat exchanger on Bank 2. It is generally that oil gets into the coolant since it is at a much higher pressure. Have you checked your coolant tank for oil? Use a turkey baster and remove some of the coolant and put it in a glass jar. Oil and water will separate and you can see it. The old coolant was green and the new coolant is pink. What does it look like in your coolant tank? Never a good idea to just let the c
  13. Hate to say it but that yellow sludge in the oil filler tube and cap is a classic sign of not running the engine long enough and hot enough to burn that stuff off. If you had the coolant system pressurized and leak tested, what makes you think you have a coolant leak? Surely something would have happened if the leak test failed. And one quart low on oil? When was the last oil change and how many miles on the oil change? It is not unusual to have to add a quart of oil every once in a while depending on mileage. As said, if you are smelling coolant in the cabin (but again, you had a pressu
  14. Translated: Hello my front wiper does not work. The engine is new and the Lenstock switch too. I don't find the relay. Does anyone have a schematic? check your fuses first
  15. ohhh uhhhh...that looks expensive! Since they are just suspension components, you should not have to remove the engine/transmission. It is amazing that broke. Big pothole? About $2 grand for a new piece Rear Axle Side Section Bracket WWW.AUTOATLANTA.COM
  16. Might call them first to see if this will work. They are a reliable source. PCM 2.0 Map Update WWW.SUNCOASTPARTS.COM Map Update for PCM 2.0 units Latest maps available from Porsche. Currently dated to 2015. The latest update for the 2003-2004 PCM 2.0 Navigation system. Now includes 2015 navigation maps. This is the most current map...
  17. All I can tell you is the old original Porsche coolant was green, and the new Porsche coolant is pink. However, that being said, they (the Porsche coolants) are compatible with each other so there is no need to panic and drain the entire system. You can drive the car, it will be okay. You are putting Porsche coolant in your car and that is good. Maybe, depending on your mileage, you will have to replace your water pump soon so then you can change it out to the new Porsche pink coolant.
  18. More than likely you got a brand new motor. Porsche did not "reman" engines, they simply replaced them. If it was done by a Porsche dealer under warranty, they only use Porsche parts, like a motor. I forget what the AT stands for in German, but AT is a replacement motor. From my reading, Porsche did not take failed motors and remanufactured them, particularly if it had total catastrophic internal failure such as with the IMS bearing. It is a bit confusing, but I would consider your good fortune in having a new engine.
  19. I am guessing you need a new passenger door latch mechanism. One of the many microswitches built into the door latch mechanism is faulty. I had some trouble with my drivers side door latch mechanism (not unlocking, not opening, repeatedly had to lock/unlock, window not dropping). I replaced the entire door latch mechanism and now everything works perfectly.
  20. Why in the world would you want that thing sitting on your dash? Why is the digital speed shown not sufficient? Does the OBDII (onboard diagnostic port) even provide speed? Way before I would send a Chinese company $$ I would really think about this. Also, no shipping until Feb 15 because the factory and warehouse are shut down due to coronavirus. Car HUD Head Up Display OBD2 II EUOBD Overspeed Warning System Projector Windshield Auto Electronic Voltage Alarm WWW.DMPCARDESIGN.COM
  21. Completely normal. To check, just do what you doing and go back to the car after several minutes. The cluster will be off.
  22. ^^Correct. The battery vent tube for the old lead-acid batteries. If you have upgraded to an AGM battery, the vent tube is not necessary.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.