Sunnyside

96-62 Fault code 60 Central locking limit position - locked not reached Diagnostic conditions • Control of central locking system in the direction of "locked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Switch for central locking faulty ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the alarm system control module, switch for central locking or door locks ♦ Driver’s/passenger’s door lock faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 5, 28, 29, 30, 32 Plug B, terminals 8 and 9 During troubleshooting, the micro switches of the door locks are tested in Step 4. The test is to be used only for vehicles with "safe position". USA vehicles do not have a "safe" position; "Driver’s door secured" and "Passenger’s door secured" are therefore displayed during the "Input signals" test. Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check switch for central locking ♦ In the menu item "Input signals", select "Central locking system button" ♦ Actuate central locking system switch and check the statuses on the screen ⇒ Step 2 ⇒ Step 5 2 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plugs A and B off the alarm system control module ♦ Pull plug off both door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 8 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End Work instruction Display OK If not OK 3 Check leads between the alarm system control module and the door locks for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 28 and pin 7 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 30 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on driver’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system control module pin 32 and pin 3 on plug of door lock on passenger’s side ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and pin 2 on plug of the driver’s side and passenger’s side door locks ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 9 and ground < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Check micro switches of the two door locks (possible detection of faulty driver’s/passenger’s door lock) ♦ Push plugs A and B back onto the alarm system control module ♦ Reconnect plugs to both door locks ♦ Close doors ♦ Vehicle not secured and not locked ♦ Select "Driver’s side locked", "Passenger’s side locked" "Driver’s side secured" and "Passenger’s side secured" in menu item "Input signals". Driver’s side not locked Passenger’s side not locked Driver’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) Passenger’s side not secured (not applicable to USA vehicles) ⇒ Step 12 ⇒ Step 11 Work instruction Display OK If not OK 5 Check switch for central locking ♦ Remove switch for central locking and pull plug off the switch ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 1 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "close" direction < 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "close" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 6 Replace switch for central locking → End 6 Check switch for central locking ♦ Measure resistance between pins 4 and 2 on the central locking switch Central locking switch actuated in "open" direction < 5 Ω Central locking switch not actuated in "open" direction ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 7 Replace switch for central locking → End 7 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for short to ground ♦ Pull plug off switch for central locking ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 8 Repair wiring harness → End 8 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on control module pin 29 and plug on switch for central locking pin 1 < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 9 Repair wiring harness → End 9 Check the wire from the central locking switch to the control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between pins 1 and 2 of plug for central locking switch approx. 180 Ω at 20 °C ⇒ Step 10 Repair wiring harness → End 10 Check wire from fuse C 3 to switch for central locking ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug on the central locking system pin 4 and ground > 11 V ⇒ Step 12 Check fuse C 3 or repair wiring harness → End 11 ♦ Depending on the test result of the input signals test in step 4, replace the driver's/passenger's door lock → End 12 ♦ Replace alarm system control module → End

96-60 Fault code 58 No current in tank servomotor despite relay actuation Diagnostic conditions • Central locking system actuation in the direction "safe" or "locked" Possible cause of fault ♦ Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the wiring between the switching element for the filler flap and the alarm system control module ♦ Open circuit in wire between ground point 7 and alarm system control module ♦ Switching element for filler flap faulty ♦ Control module faulty Affected terminals Plug B, terminals 1, 5 and 10 Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check wire between ground point 7 and alarm system control module for open circuit ♦ Switch off ignition ♦ Pull plug B off the alarm system control module ♦ Measure the resistance between plug B pin 1 and ground < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 2 Repair wiring harness → End 2 Check the wiring from the switching element for the filler flap to the alarm system control module for short circuit to ground ♦ Pull plug off switching element for filler flap ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 5 and ground ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 10 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End 2 Check the wiring from the switching element for the filler flap to the alarm system control module for open circuit ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 5 and pin 2 on plug of switching element for filler flap ♦ Measure resistance between plug B on alarm system control module pin 10 and pin 1 on plug of switching element for filler flap < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End 3 Check output signal of the alarm system control module ♦ Select "Filler flap" in menu item "Drive links" ♦ Perform a drive-link test and simultaneously measure the voltage on the plug of the switching element for filler flap, pins 1 and 2 A short voltage pulse can be measured with the digital multimeter ⇒ Step 4 ⇒ Step 5 4 ♦ Replace switching element for filler flap → End 5 ♦ Replace control module → End

Hi , Its faults like this as iMO the alarm system is the achilles heel of our cars. 96-40 Fault code 34 Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to B+ or faulty Diagnostic conditions • Alarm system activated Possible cause of fault ♦ Short circuit to voltage in the wiring between the alarm system control module and the passenger compartment monitoring sensor ♦ Passenger compartment monitoring sensor faulty Affected terminals Plug A, terminals 8 and 24 Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check supply voltage of the sensor ♦ Switch off ignition ♦ Pull off the plug on the passenger compartment monitoring sensor ♦ Measure voltage between the plug on the passenger compartment monitoring sensor pin 1 and pin 4 > 11 V ⇒ Step 2 Check or repair wiring harness → End 2 Check the wiring from passenger compartment monitoring sensor to alarm system control module for short circuit to B+ ♦ Pull plug A off the alarm system control module ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between plug A on alarm system pin 24 and ground ♦ Measure voltage between plug A on alarm system pin 8 and ground 0 V ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End 3 Check the wiring from passenger compartment monitoring sensor to alarm system control module for open circuit ♦ Switch off ignition ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system pin 24 and plug on passenger compartment monitoring sensor pin 3 ♦ Measure resistance between plug A on alarm system pin 8 and plug on passenger compartment monitoring sensor pin 2 < 5 Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 ♦ Replace passenger compartment monitoring sensor → End

Your going to have to do some data logging in that case. I am really surprised you don't have some codes. So you need to have a look at your: Set boost,IAT's, Ignition angle, Maf data, rpm, O2 pre cat 1 and 2 (to work out AFR). Do some pulls in 3rd form 2000 to 6000 rpm and see what you get. Your garage that has done all the checking so far should be able to interpret the data. I'm sure better than me on here will also be able to as well. i recon there are a few more items to data log but I just cant think of the atm. Hopefully some one who regularly data logs will come along. Frank

Been out all day, but had a look at the wiring diagram. Nearly all the signals go to the instrument cluster first not the DME. Here are the pin numbers required at the instrument cluster: B18 ground oil level colour Br/Or B2 Oil level Colour Gn/Bu B5 Oil Pressure Colour Gn/Rd A13 Oil pressure switch Colour Gn/Wh I will look to see if I can find some more . Frank Right also found the Motor Oil Temperature goes to the DME pin C5 Colour Gn/Rd. Apart form oil temp it would appear the DME doe not have anything else to do with the oil pressure or level :) Why don't you try doing a continuity test from the oil temp sensor to pin C5 on the DME. Remove the plug so its not connected to the dme, then you cant do any harm. See if there is a break in between C5 and the temp sensor plug. Or run the engine to normal temp, then measure the resistance of the temp sensor. 60 °C 2.8 - 3.5 kΩ 90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ 120°C 0.4 - 0.6 kΩ I would think you should be in the range of 90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ.

Been out all day, but had a look at the wiring diagram. Nearly all the signals go to the instrument cluster first not the DME. Here are the pin numbers required at the instrument cluster: B18 ground oil level colour Br/Or B2 Oil level Colour Gn/Bu B5 Oil Pressure Colour Gn/Rd A13 Oil pressure switch Colour Gn/Wh I will look to see if I can find some more . Frank Right also found the Motor Oil Temperature goes to the DME pin C5 Colour Gn/Rd. Apart form oil temp it would appear the DME doe not have anything else to do with the oil pressure or level :)

1. DME 7.8 1709 P0197 0-37 page 1 DME 7.8 p0197 0 Printed in Germany, 2000 0-37 P0197 125 Oil temperature sensor - below limit Diagnosis conditions • Idle speed • Time elapsed after engine start-up greater than 5 minutes Possible fault cause ♦ Temperature sensor faulty ♦ Wiring harness ♦ DME control module faulty Affected terminals Terminal III/5 and III/17 Resistance values 60 °C 2.8 - 3.5 kΩ 90°C 1.0 - 1.3 kΩ 120°C 0.4 - 0.6 kΩ 0 Printed in Germany, 2000 Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Check temperature sensor ♦ Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module plug) ♦ Measure resistance between Pin III/17 and Pin III/5 2.8 - 3.5 kΩ (at 60 °C) ⇒ Step 2 Replace temperature sensor → End 2 Check wiring from DME control module to temperature sensor for continuity ♦ Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module plug) ♦ Remove plug connection of temperature sensor ♦ Measure resistance between special tool 9637 Pin III/17 and temperature sensor plug Pin 2 ♦ Measure resistance between special tool 9637 Pin III/5 and temperature sensor plug Pin 1 0 - 5 Ω ⇒ Step 3 Repair wiring harness → End 3 Check wiring from DME control module to temperature sensor for short to ground ♦ Connect special tool 9637 to wiring harness (DME control module plug) ♦ Remove plug connection of temperature sensor ♦ Measure resistance between Pin III/5 and ground ∞ Ω ⇒ Step 4 Repair wiring harness → End 4 Replace DME control module ⇒ Step 5 5 Perform adaptation ♦ Switch on the ignition ♦ Wait one minute ♦ Do not press the accelerator ♦ Switch off the ignition for at least 10 seconds ♦ Read out the fault memory → End 2. 45-30 Fault code 4460 Pressure sensor Diagnostic conditions • Pressure sensor actual value is evaluated and displays an implausible value Possible cause of fault ♦ Short circuit to ground/voltage or open circuit in circuit to control module terminals 25, 26 and 42 ♦ Plug connection on stop light switch faulty ♦ Adjustment of the stop light switch not OK ♦ Wiring/ plug connection faulty ♦ Pressure sensor faulty (replace hydraulic unit) Affected terminals Terminals 25, 26 and 42 Diagnosis/troubleshooting Work instruction Display OK If not OK 1 Visual inspection ♦ Check the pressure sensor plug for damage and corrosion ⇒ Step 2 Repair pressure sensor plug 2 Check supply voltage of the pressure sensor for short circuit to ground/ open circuit ♦ Switch off ignition ♦ Pull off pressure sensor plug ♦ Switch on ignition ♦ Measure voltage between pin 3 of pressure sensor plug and ground approx. 5 V ⇒ Step 3 ♦ Display 0 V: Short circuit to ground/open circuit in circuit between PSM control module plug pin 42 and pressure sensor plug pin 3 ♦ Display > 11 V Short circuit to voltage between PSM control module plug pin 42 and pin 3 of the booster pump pressure sensor plug, or PSM contol module faulty → End

Nice one JP. now all you have to do is get it into Alphabetical order and have it put into the DIY section as common faults/problems. Then when ever some one wants to add to the list with a new defect/problem you could edit it and put the defect and potential repair in the list as well. In time we would have a comprehensive quick guide. Frank. :thankyou:

:) Great News.

:welcome: Firstly I would do 2 things. 1. Check all the fuses, you might have blown one. 2. Disconnect the battery and leave for 10 minutes, reconnect and see if the fault has cleared. Just about all the dash instruments and alarms are controlled directly by the DME talking to the dash in computer speak and not the old fashioned analogue signal. perhaps the dME has to find the data link again. Just a stab in the dark but it cant do any harm. Make sure you have your radio code. Frank

Try talking to Vince at CR Turbos about a new actuator, they rebuilt my turbos and replaced the actuators, and are doing some hybrid work on mine atm: http://www.crturbos.co.uk/ Tell him Frank gave you the contact address/number and see if he will give you a wee bit of discount. You never know.lol Frank

And if all that sounds very complicated , it just so happens that if you count the number of threads coming out the back of the good turbo actuator arm adjustment nut ( or measure the length sticking out) its the near enough same measurement for the other as well. Don't get too hung up on balancing at this stage, its possible to get 95% there without all the special tools. My passenger side waste gate has seized and the rod had corroded through. There was no waste gate control on the passenger side turbo and the drivers side turbo took up all the control. I still had my flash boost of 0.9 bar and thinking about it my waste gate must have been seized for many many months. If your rod is a mm or so out it will make very little difference to the running of the car. The N75 valve controls the amount of boost. If your slightly out on one turbo it will still keep full control of boost.You only need to worry if there is a significant difference / in balance between actuators. Such as I had with a seized waste gate. The Turbo with the seized waste gate does most of the work, whilst the good waste gate will be open more to compensate, hence does less work. Remember, the turbos do not only supply their respective sides, both turbo outputs are mixed in the y pipe, so even if the turbo you set up is marginally out it doesn't mean that side of cylinders will be getting more or less boost than the other bank. By measuring your good arm length and using that figure will have almost no imbalance and hence both turbos will be working at about the same rate. Then you can get them checked and set up correctly at your leisure. MORE IMPORTANTLY If I were you I would check to see that you don't have a seized waste gate as well, its quite common. You can have the turbine housing repaired so don't think you have to get a new turbo. ps, what I'm trying to say as professionally as i can is you wont do any harm short term running you car with a marginal actuator imbalance.

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Try carrying out a throttle valve adaptation. Disconnect the battery, leave for 10 minutes then reconnect. Switch on ignition to position 2 , don't start and touch anything at all for at least 10 seconds. Turn off the ignition remove key. Then start car as normal. That will take the throttle through all its movements. Hopefully if there is dirt or a sticking patch it will clean up. Its worth a try before doing anything else. :welcome: to the fold by the way. :thumbup:

firstly, what are ALL the codes that he is reading out. Please list them. Long long before buying a new DME you should have continuity testing of the O2 connectors/wires to the DME plug. Really it needs to be put on a PST2 or Durametric. Lets see the codes first.

Hi Kenneth, There is alot going on there. I am a little confused, how many times have you changed the ignition switch. It would appear reading your post you have done it twice?????? I know you have changed batteries, but are you sure: 1. The cars battery is charged ! 2. The 2nd battery you tried was charged ! 3. The car is is charging the battery! When the battery goes flat all sorts of problems occur with these cars. I don't understand why the car would not turn off, but more worrying is you turned it off by disconnecting the battery. Never ever disconnect the battery when the car is running or damage to the cars control units can occur. If you have to stop the car like that again pull the fuel pump fuse out. When reconnecting the battery, you can get all sorts of dash lights, so long as they all go out once the car runs then its normal. Firstly, I would check the car is charging the battery, you have changed the ignition so that cant be at fault. Let us all know what voltage you are getting at the battery when the engine is off and when running. Frank

Interestingly, yes I have had to a lesser extent a similar thing . I put it down to the servo building up vacuum.

Yes PSM will effect power delivery. If PSM cant control the rear wheels when accelerating from a rest it will intervene the throttle angle to reduce the power. Like lifting your foot off the accelerator but much quicker. So the car will be dramatically slow. Attempting to do 0-60 in the rain is a bit foolish TBH , that's what the PSM is for, to control wheel spin. It not only corrects for driver error drift, skids. If you turn off the PSM then PSM will not intervene with power delivery and you will spin the rear wheels. PSM is still active in the back ground for extreme situations such as emergency lane changing but it will not control traction loss when accelerating. So if you want to do Donuts and drift the car out of bends, turn off the PSM.lol

Very good job pala996tt ! For your radio you probably need your radio code to get it back to life. You can get help from the amazing Loren : Lost radio code.... :thumbup:

will this condition trigger any engine protection mode that may force this low fuel pressure reading. No, try and get a Durametric code for the air bag fault. AS to your low fuel pressure JP will have nailed it on the head,ie split fuel line.

Have you ever tried to change your DV's. Reading your other post you have so you will know there isn't much room in there so 2 smaller DV's will fit where a larger one wont. Lets face it you have 2 Turbos that produce quite a lot of flow that needs to be recirculated when the throttle is released.

I agree with JP possible fuel pump internal pipe failure.

No, not if its a very light coating. With all the best will in the world , turbos don't seal all the oil and some does get blown bye.If you get chance take an IC off and check how dirty they are inside. Clean out with solvent if needs be. Just makes them a little more efficient. but to answer your question again, we all get some oil in the inlet pipes on out turbos. If the car starts to smoke then that is a problem. Its always a judgment call TBH. If the oil is pooling deep in the corners and bends of the pipe, perhaps the seals are a little more worn than one would like. But don't worry too much if its light.

Excellent outcome well done. :drive: