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thom4782

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Everything posted by thom4782

  1. thom4782
    Hi all: My 6 speed 01S has 160K miles on it. The transmission seems to work perfectly. It shifts smoothly, etc. The clutch was replaced at 125K. Today, when I drove the car into the indie shop, the folks though they heard a rattle noise from the rear perhaps related to the exhaust. The shop put the car up on a lift and the noise seemed be coming from the transmission. The noise goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed and returns when the clutch engages. Any ideas as to what might be going on? Thanks
  2. thom4782
    Hi everyone: The Park light on the instrument cluster lights up when I turn on the ignition and it goes out after the engine starts. The problem is that it doesn't light up after I pull up on the parking brake. The convertible top works normally. I've replaced the parking brake sensor, the micro switch next to the convertible top latch and the dual convertible top control relay. I've used a multi-meter to test voltages in the relay sockets and all seem normal. So I'm looking for new ideas. As I said the Park light comes on with the key; it doesn't with the parking brake Thanks
  3. thom4782
    This may help. It's the wiring diagram from a 986 01
  4. thom4782
    I chased the 0410 and 1411 codes for almost 2 years...turned out it was the vacuum reservoir not the lines or the valves..
  5. thom4782
    My situation was different. I had the key and only had to replace the head. No cutting of a new key blank was involved. My point was that other computers than Porsche ones can program keys. PS: If a dealer charges more than 1 hour labor to cut and program a key, it would be stealing money out of your pocket. Total job is less than 30 minutes.
  6. thom4782
    My indie was able to program a new key using his Autologic tool. Of the two codes needed to program the key, the shop did need to get the car code from a dealer. I've kept a copy of the car doce for future reference. BTW: It takes 15 monutes or less to program the key.
  7. thom4782
    This is a complete guess. I assume you mean the clamshell behind the convertibel top. If so, I guessing that you have a bad sensor that thinks everything is closed when its not. Try searching on 'adjusting the convertible top lid" See picture from shop manual
  8. thom4782
    JFP's advice is spot on. I'd suggest takikng the car to an AC shop. You'll spend at least what the shop charges in buying the necessary equipment and materials to evacuate, flush and recharge the system if you do it yourself.
  9. thom4782
    If it's not the headlight switch, then my best guess is that you have a loose connection where the unit plugs into the socket on the tower.
  10. thom4782
    Perhaps you have a bad leveling sensor or the plug / wiring to one of them is broken. Is fo, the car might think it's tilted. I had an independent reinstall a sensor backwards and the lights would not move up or down. PS: If you have a durametric cable, you can 1) get the fault code and 2) activate the lights into the up/level/down positions. If they move, then, I say its a sensor.
  11. thom4782
    German Wotor Works @ Holly St and El Camino Real
  12. thom4782
    I don't have an answer for you other than to suggest this. If you have a Durametric cable or know someone that has one, use it to identify the fault codes in the locking system. There are probably a ton of them stored so do this. Bring up the codes and write them down. Next clear them. Then recycle the loxks and see what new codes appear. Without the codes, it just guessing. I suspect you have a faulty sensor somewhere. My own car acted like it possessed until I replaced the passenger door lock unit. It would do crazy things like unlock and lock itself when I was driving down the street.
  13. thom4782
    The red light on the locking switch on the center console can stay lighted if one of the door lock sensors is broken. You need one of the diagnostic tools JFP mentioned to figure out which lock is causing the problem.
  14. thom4782
    Do you hear the sound with the AC and fan completely off? Bit of a grasping at straw here, but wondering if you're hearing refrigerant passing through the expansion valve or evaporator.
  15. thom4782
    No real idea what to do...so here's another no cost, minimal time guess. I would try two other things before taking the door cover off. One, I'd try pulling the inner door handle like you were getting out of the car. Two, I would try locking and unlocking the doors using the center console switch.
  16. thom4782
    Could the fix be as simple as inserting the key in the door and unlocking the car? If not, when you say ytou sviveled the door latch, sdo you mean you rotated the lock mechanism itsefl?
  17. thom4782
    It's hard to know. When I had a central locking system problem, I had multiple codes and multiple symptoms. For example, the keys worked sometime and didn't work other times. The center console lock LED would come on by itself and shut off by itself. I thought for a while that the problem was in the infrared internal motion sensor. I thought it at other times it was broken key electronics. I wondered still at other times if it was some other system component. Luckily one day, I noticed that I could make the console LED come on by lifting the passenger door handle. I figured that one of the mircosensors failed in the lock mechanism and replaced the locking unit. Since then everything has worked normally. Perhaps a dealer with a Porsche diagnistic computer could pin the problem down to the precise part by acutating the locking system components one component at a time and look for what piece triggers a fault. Otherwise, I would replace the door lock if I didn't want to spend money paying someone to run further diagnostics.
  18. thom4782
    Best guess - the passenger door lock unit is broken. I'm guessing this for two reasons. One, the passenger door doesn't lock remotely, with the key or the console button and the driver side door does lock with the key. Does the driver side door lock with the console button? Two, no synchronization typically means the car recognizes one door is locked and the other one is not locked, hench no sychronization.
  19. thom4782
    When you lock the car and hear a single beep, it generally means something isn't fully closed. Often this is the center console lid. It can also be a front or back hood or a door. Try reclosing eveything and see if you still get a beep. If you get a double beep, that generally indicates something is broken. Figuring out what that might be might require a trip to a dealer or independent shop that has a good diagnoistic computer.
  20. thom4782
    The symptoms are strange. Does the left side light tilt now without using the durametric to activate it. You can test the by putting the car on level ground, turn on the low beams, then switch to high beams. The low should tilt up to fill in the high beam pattern. If the leftide doesn't work on its own, I suggest looking under the car to see if the tilt rs are still properly attached and that the wiring looiks OK. If the left side does work, then problem might be inside the headlamp assembly itself. I assume all of the light trun on properly so you are getting power to the headlamp unit. I'm not sure how the cars tells the light to point up or down. I suspect that happens in the headlight control unit.,
  21. thom4782
    I'll be clearer. The durametric will overide the inputs from the front and rear angle sensors and allow you to move the lights into the up, level, down positions even if one of the angle sensors is broken. So, if you actuate this test built into the durametric and the lights move, the problem is most likely one of the sensors is broken or installed backwards. Becuase you installed a new front sensor, the problem would likely be the back sensor. If the durametric cannot move the lights - one or both - then one of the other components might be bad. The codes JFP referred to will help point you in the direction of which component may be broken other than the angle sensors. BTW: my car had the 'backwards" problem when an independent re-installed the rear sensor. This caused my lights to be in the down position all the time. Once the rear sensor was installed properly, the Litronics moved as they should,
  22. thom4782
    Typically, one of the tilt sensors is malfunctioning when the Lits point only down. The durametric will allow you to test this by tilting the Lits up and down using commands from your laptop. If the durametric does allow you to move the lamps, then I'm guessing your rear sensor is the culprit given you replaced the front one.
  23. thom4782
    The 99s have dual row and the 02 likely has a single row IMS bearing. If you're skilled, replacing the IMSB and RMS is straight forward and there are a number of videos on the web showing the procedure. I'd put the first car at the top of the list and negotiate the price down by at least the cost of the parts for a new clutch, IMSB and RMS ~ $1200.
  24. thom4782
    My best guess is that one of your door lock mechanisms is failing because the car seems to think one door in locked and the other one isn't. I had a similar problem that I was lucky to figure out. I noticed the red locking light on the dash would come on occassionaly when I pulled up the passenger door handle. I don't think a Durametric allows you to test each locking system component individually. If that's the case, you might need to use a Porsche System tester to find out which component is the problem. Good luck
  25. thom4782
    Normally, the window drops about a 1/4 inch when one pulls on either the outer or inner door handle and the door unlatches itself from the locking anchor on the door frame. IIRC cprrectly, the door lights come on at the same time. So my guess is that you have a problem with the door latching mechanism. Try lubricating the it as a first step. If that doesn't do the trick, then it could be a sensor problem in the door latch itself.
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