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thom4782

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Everything posted by thom4782

  1. thom4782
    Other than item 11, which is too vague to tell what was done,as well as item 1, these amounts are close to what I've paid - not all at once mind you. Can't believe they had to replace whole keys however. I would have thought that two new heads for about $300 would do the trick.
  2. thom4782
    Check out this solution for opening a rear trunk without the cables working http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/43545-help-trunk-completely-stuck-no-emergency-cable.html
  3. thom4782
    I experienced sudden death one day. I drove the dog to doggie day car. Pulled into the drop off zone, turned the engine off, dropped off the dog, and got back in the car to start it. The engined cranked and cranked, but would not start. Bad fuel pump was the cause. Replaced the pump and all has been well for 2 years now. The amazing thing to me was that there was no warning whatsoever.
  4. thom4782
    I don't have a direct answer for you. I can tell you this. I recently had a shop relocate my rear trunk emergency release cable so that is under the driver side bumperette. It's a snap now to take the cover off and pull the cable. I don't have to you a lot of pressure on it to pop the trunk open. Is it possible that your pulling on some wire other than the emergency release cable. I don't know how the loop is attached. If it is like the one in front, then it's held in place by tape. I would expect you'd be able to pull the cable from the middle using the hanger so that eventually the cable slide down the hanger until you found the loop. If you did find the loop, I think you can put a lot of pressure on it without breaking anything.
  5. thom4782
    The yellow/grey wire connects to a terminal called on the wiring diagram as: comfort close. This wire has a common connection to a similar terminal on the other window motor and, importantly, the central alarm control unit. It looks like something got set in the central alarm when your battery died. If it happens again or the same fixed doesn't work on the passenger side, try unlocking and locking the door with the key as a first step. If that doesn't help, search for dead battery central locking problems.
  6. thom4782
    What did the shop tell you on Monday - IMSB, something else, engine kaput or repairable...?
  7. thom4782
    The right MAF depends on your car's year and vin number. Cable driven accelerator cars (Iup through 1999) use MAF 996-606-123-00-M14. E-gas cars (2000 and later) use either 996-606-124-00-M14 or 996-606-125-00-M14 depending on chassis number. Check Pelican Parts and you can see the break points. As I uncerstand it, one can't substitue one model for another without reprogramming the ECU.
  8. thom4782
    Regarding the idle issue, there could be several causes. The one I am familiar with is the 'hunting' idle problem where the engine speed varies up and down between 600 and 1100 when stopped at a light. If this is your set of symptoms, you might try cleaning two things before conidering buying parts. One is the throttle body. If its dirty, the car will hunt idle. The other is the MAF. Hope this helps.
  9. thom4782
    My 01S has two stalks coming out of the upper part of the center dial - the tachometer. I can use the left one to adjust the brightness of the dash. If I turn the stalk clockwise, the lights get brighter. Counter-clockwise makes them dimmer. Hope this helps.
  10. thom4782
    If the A/C is on, the fans should operate at low speed regardless of coolant temperature. If one or both fans don't operate at low speed with the A/C on, then the non-working fan's ballast resistor is likely broken. In my case, both ballast resistors were broken. Before I replaced them, the fans would operate at high speed when the A/C was on the the refrigerant pressure reached a trigger point. Then the expansion value would equalize the high and low pressure sides and the 'high speed' fans would turn off. After replacing both resistors, the fans began low speed operations as soon as I turned on the A/C. Summary: ballast resistors are OK, the fans operate at low speed when the A/C is turned on. One or more ballest resistors broken, one or both fans run at high wpped with the A/C on after refrigerant reaches a trigger pressure level and they stop running when the expansion valve equalizes the pressure. Of course, a high collant temperature can keep the fans running at high speed in effect overiding the A/C signals.
  11. thom4782
    It's possible. If both windows don't drop when each of their respective doors is broken, then I'd suspect the problem is also associated with the latch issue. If it only happens with one window when the door is opended, then I'd suspect the window regulator is broken. In this case the latch problem is probably separate.
  12. thom4782
    Wild guess - alternator died and the car ran for a few miles on the battery. Once the battery died, the electrics went dark and the car shut down.
  13. thom4782
    +1 on Durham's answer. Take the car to any of the many Smog Check only stations in your area. If you've had any check engine light problems fixed recently, make sure you drive the car for several days on highways and streets after someone uses a computer to clear the codes. When codes are reset, Boxsters must run through severval driving cycles before the emission control monitoring systems are ready. Most but not all systems must be in a ready state ready before the California can test the car.
  14. thom4782
    I don't know if they were standard equipment. I'd bet they were. My next guess is that they either fell out while driving or broke and weren't replaced because of their high price.
  15. thom4782
    Do you have two complete units? If so, could Palo Alto Speedometer use one to fix the other so you ultimately have the set up you want?
  16. thom4782
    If you put power to the terminals on the fan itself, the fan should work. If it does work, the you most likely have a broken electrical connection somewhere between the battery and the fan. If the fan doesn't run with power applied directly to it, then the fan motor is the likely culprit and the electrical circuit is probably ok.
  17. thom4782
    The next step would be to power the fan directly with 12 volts. If the fan doesn't work then, I would guess the fan motor has given up the ghost.
  18. thom4782
    On my car, I think it happend on both the inner and outer handles. I say think because I open the passenger side door 99% of the time from the outside and just don't remember precisely. If it happens on both, then I would favor the regulator. If it happens just on one, then I would think its the latch. I'm far less certain of the latter guess because I don't know if the inner and outer handles activate different sensors. I would think a defective latch would trigger some trouble codes, but a broken regulator might not.
  19. thom4782
    I make two guesses. Either your dirver side window regulator has broken or a sensor in you door latch thinks the door isn't being opened. If you open the door and push gently down on the window, does it drop a 1/4" to 1/2". And is this different than what happens if you do the same thing on the passenger side. If so, I'd guess window regulator. In not, then I go with my second guess - door latch.
  20. thom4782
    I was wrong about the washer tube/ After removing the fender lining a looking from behind, the black tube is part of the washer system and it clips to the headlight tray in a U shaped fitting.
  21. thom4782
    My car does have the headlight washer option. I am able to follow the fluid line around the back left side of the tray and underneath to the fron nozzles. Unfortunately, the line I am referring is different. It is black and about 1/4" in diameter. It seems to attach to the tray tower just to the right of where the breather hose attaches. And that is why I am so mystified. I don't know its purpose and how it is mounted. When I tried to pull it off, it would not budge. I looks like its clipped or screwed on, but I can't tell and don't want to break it by using too much force.
  22. thom4782
    I have an 01S. The tower on the back of the driver side headlight tray has three things connected to it. One is the wire socket held in by a yellow clip. Another is the breather tube for the litronics. I don't know the purpose of the third item. It's a black tube that appears to run back along the top of the wheel well. Anybody know what this third connection is? If so, does anyone know how to disconnect it. Thanks
  23. thom4782
    The car has been to the shop multiple times. First, they checked for vacuum leaks and found some, These were fixed. Codes reappeared. Then the various secondary air valves were replaced. I took the view that labor costs were the biggest part of the bill so replacing parts when things were easily accessible was the less risky approach. The codes reappeared. Then the air pump was replaced. The code reappeared agan. Then the MAF was replaced. Still the codes reappeared. It always the same story. Clear the codes; drive at leaset 50 miles; the light and the codes come back on at a subsequent cold start. Now with nothing left to fix in the secondary air system, it's on to the O2 sensors. They're paid for and in hand so it's cheap to actually put them in given the car's high mileage. So I've done everything I can think of. The two independent shops - unless they are both incompetent - have gone through all the diagnostics and have nothing else to recommend. The local dealer wants to start back at square one and charge big bucks before they will either escalate my question to Porsche or recommend what else to do. A smog test two months ago showed the cats are working great and the car is running very clean. So if all else fails. I might just set the car to ROW and have the secondary air system ignored by the diagnostics because I just don't know what to do next.
  24. thom4782
    Yes, I've had the codes reset multiple times. About 50 milles after each reset, the codes reappear on the first cold start within couple of minutes driving. The shops have smoke tested the vaccuum several times and they found no leaks.
  25. thom4782
    The air pump runs for 90 seconds of so at cold start up.
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