karlooz

in my search for max NA996 performance i am considering cat bypass pipes but my social conscience is holding me back. does anyone know how clean burning the motor is?

i've read that the cel will be triggered but does not affect drivability or performance.

i can go with 100 cell cats but they're 3x as much.

Yes I just did it.

Have a look at this thread....

http://www.porsche-1.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2868

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i LIKEY! guess what my next mod is ;) thx for the link.

Hey Karlooz, I have seen your calipers painted red. How did you do it? what kind of paint and where can I buy it and how much? how did you do the decal? a lot of question but I want to do the same with my calipers. Thanks

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i got some high temp caliper paint from auto zone. worked really well. just clean well, mask well and go light on the coats (you don't want to have runs). you can get vinyl caliper decals and clear coat over them or do what i did. i bought the decals from ebay and requested the "negative" of the porsche script. i used it as a mask and spray painted the script on. much more permanent this way.

Anyone had any experience with this newest version of EVO's cold air intake system for the 3.6/3.8? I think they had an older version that did not contain itself very well. This supposedly is all contained with lid shut. Has a "venturi" effect???

Thankx Jim

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i just posted this on another thread. i have a 3.4L but i think it's exactly the same for a 3.6L 996. should be very similar or the same for the 3.6L/3.8L 997s

"i have the fabspeed kit and feel that it is not really worth it. 225 for a fake carbon ring and a silicon hose. the sound was ever so slightly increased but i do agree the throttle was sharpened.

i still have it as a back up (for when i have to get it smogged) but i replaced it with the new evo v-flow. if you want extra sound this is IT. at wide open throttle, over 4K it has an absolute wail. very intoxicating. you do get extra horses too and sharp throttle but you get even more HP if you get you ecu flashed with the giac program (claimed 25~30HP). it is 300~400 more than the fabspeed kit but you actually get a new airbox, cone filter and smooth walled aluminum intake pipe.

i am very satisfied with it so much so it sounds like i work or am sponsored by evo ;) but no affiliation just very happy. :thumbup:"

click my sig for pics

I am new to the 996 world (and the Porsche world, for that matter) and would love a more aggressive sound out of my 1999 996.  I have been researching cold air intakes as a cheep alternative to installing a new exhaust (but w/o the power gains).

For those of you out there that have a cold air intake, or modified yours, does it really change the sound that much?  I am not too worried about spending the $225 (fabspeed) - I just would like a more aggressive sound if I do.  Also, anyone seen a difference using the BMC air filter along with it?

Thanks for all the help.

Adam

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i have the fabspeed kit and feel that it is not really worth it. 225 for a fake carbon ring and a silicon hose. the sound was ever so slightly increased but i do agree the throttle was sharpened.

i still have it as a back up (for when i have to get it smogged) but i replaced it with the new evo v-flow. if you want extra sound this is IT. at wide open throttle, over 4K it has an absolute wail. very intoxicating. you do get extra horses too and sharp throttle but you get even more HP if you get you ecu flashed with the giac program (claimed 25~30HP). it is 300~400 more than the fabspeed kit but you actually get a new airbox, cone filter and smooth walled aluminum intake pipe.

i am very satisfied with it so much so it sounds like i work or am sponsored by evo ;) but no affiliation just very happy. :thumbup:

click my sig for pics.

New to this forum,  and was doing a search on the EVO system. turns out, there appears to have been problems with the 986  CEL after installation. Anyone have this mod installed, and have any EVO issues, or fixes ???.  A previous thread on the 996 was not conclusive.  As you might know, I find out AFTER I purchased and installed the kit :(  only have about 50 mi.. so far no problem.. Thanks..

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if you are talking of the evo v-flow then i haven't had any problems.... yet. i actually expect the cone filter to foul up the MAF like it did with the evo intake i had on my boxster. it was a very easy fix though. just clean it with electrical contact cleaner, the type that doesn't leave residue. the intake is still worth it to me :clapping:

Are you sure it's not just your pollen filter that's dirty?

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still have the stank with a new carbon pollen filter.

so here's the evaporator assembly but where is it located? if i can spray some disinfectant into the inlet while it's blowing then that may do the trick. i guess it's downstream from the pollen filter.

thx all.

how do i get to the ac evaporators to clean them out?

title says it all ;)

anyone have any tips on cleaning out the ventilation ducts? i guess that bacteria is growing after the AC has been on and condensation accumulates but where is it accumulating? are there drain holes that need to be unplugged? lysol in the ducts?

on the front the wheel carrier (not the tie rod ball joint boot). i messed it up a while ago when i first replaced the stock springs for h&Rs. well, i kinda rigged it so the boot is partially sealing so that it is not completely exposed.

couldn't find any instructions on alldatadiy.com

tia

uh oh, that's exactly where an rms leak would be. i've read that, although rare, the non m96 engine are not immune to this problem.

Too bad you're in the bay area, I am going to install a set on my car this upcoming weekend as well as a plethora of other things, and my father has a lift and full snapon and air tools! hehe.

I can't wait, I am going to do 14" stoptech's front new rotors rear, with pagid orange and stainless lines all around. gt3rs brake ducts, srf fluid, installing a custom braided clutch line, B&B headers, changing tranny fluid, changing plugs, and maybe replacing the boots and coil packs if bad (will be testing). I think I will also install screens in my front bumper and clean the radiators, and possibly modifiy the mount on the 3rd on as well. Oh, and I am going to change out the wheel bearings at all 4 corners. I should be able to knock it all out in a full day, yes I am that good  or stupid :)

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man, it looks like we are doing the similar things to our cars :)

i'm getting the stoptecs put in on friday WOOT WOOT!

On each side of my 99 C2, under the bumper and just in front of each front wheel there is a cutout which I assume is an outlet for the airflow passing through the radiator on each side. Each hole has a little mini-scoop and a small fairing or winglet that hangs down off the back edge. Now that my car has been significantly lowered with the new suspension mods the winglets have been scraping the ground over certain driveway entrances (including my own) so I removed them to keep them from being trashed. Have I circumvented some crucial bit of German engineering that's going to cause a problem with cooling or some such? I guess the winglets and scoops could aid in air extaction in some way but I would think that forced airflow through the radiators would be much more important to cooling. On the other hand, they must be there for a reason. Any thoughts?

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yup, mine are gone too because of the lowered suspension and my driveway. sorry, i have no info but just wanted to commiserate. ;)

i'll be installing my new headers this weekend and am looking for some tips.

do i need anything special for bolt removal, liquid wrench, wd 40, elbow grease ;) ?

do i need anything special for install, anti seize for the bolts?

any special procedures?

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I doubt you will need WD40 etc. - not much rust in California.

If you want to be safe then replace the manifold bolts (900 378 131 00). I think they are about $1.29 each retail.

Torque setting are here.

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thx loren

good idea, i'll get some bolts (9 right?).

i guess at 19lb-ft the header bolts shouldn't be that hard to get off.

i'll be installing my new headers this weekend and am looking for some tips.

do i need anything special for bolt removal, liquid wrench, wd 40, elbow grease ;) ?

do i need anything special for install, anti seize for the bolts?

any special procedures?

hehe, i wouldn't call it a complete 180 as i'm still very much into performance. I just felt that the 3.4L motor wouldn't have the balls to deal with the extra drag from the widbody kit i was going to do, not to mention the wider wheels needed to fill out the fenders. (plus i like the idea of having a fast show worthy car :) )

so now my priorities are as follows:

1)RGT facelift/PSS9's in tandem

2) Throttle body and ECU

3) Atomic Beaver Powered Flux Capacitor turbine, in carbonfiber.

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re: the rennlist thread... i thought you were convinced that you were gonna save the pennies for a gt3 instead of the performance mods. are you doing the FVD ecu and throttle body? i hear the "Atomic Beaver Powered Flux Capacitor turbine, in carbonfiber" is good for 100HP! it's well worth the money :P

thanks for the info programmator. i've decided to bite the bullet and get a pair of facelift litronics and do the new style RGT RS bumper. it just looks tooooo nice to resist ( **** you germans!)

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dang! i guess you did a complete 180! i remember the back on forth on rennlist about wasting money on aero bling. i was the side of doing the mods you want to do now not the care you may/may not have 3,4,5 years from now. wow the facelift AND the rgt bumper is gonna cost a pretty penny.

got my RUF look bumper, in carbon fiber. i am a little worried about it being too fragile.. time will tell. it needs some prep which i am fully capable of doing. i guess you get what you pay for.

good luck

Can anyone tell me just how load the rattle is?  I am considering adding this with a supercharger install.  How about the duration of the rattle?  Is it usually for a half of second or so?  I would like to add this based on feedback from some of the people who have it but I want to make sure that it is work the extra $$$.  Any driving impressions would be extremely helpful.

Thanks,

-Steve

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exactly what ben,lj said. rattle at idle and added gear noise up to 2K~3K rpms. i find that when i am lugging the car (driving around at low rpms while putting a load on the engine) there is added gear noise (shouldn't be driving this way anyway ;) )

i would say if you need a new clutch then think of doing it. since you are getting the SC then just enjoy it. i find i like to do mods in steps to see if i can feel the difference.

I had a LTW fly on my last car.  Loved it!

A rattle is a normal thing.  However...it is well worth the throttle response.  I noticed a slight (butt-dyno) gain.  Please note the word - slight!! This is usually due to the transfer of the reduced rotational mass to the wheels.  It was very slight, but there seemed to be a little more oomph.  Besides...the rev-matching was SOOOO much easier.  If you have the $$, I recommend it.  Eventually...I plan to do the same.

Chad

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i was in need of a new clutch so i took the plunge and got an up-rated clutch with the LWF. ya, at first i thought the noise was annoying but as it breaks in it seems to have quieted down... really. maybe i am just getting used to it but i am LOVING the throttle response and acceleration from the lightened flywheel and find the noise is a small price to pay.

do you have to get the ECU tuned for the lighter flywheel?

i read a lot of threads over @ rennlist and it seems that the GT3 owners who go from the stock to the single mass unit recommend a computer tune in order to get full benifit.

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no ecu tune was recommended for the 996 but i will check it out. thx

The transmission gear noise heard by the driver is one of the reasons Porsche uses the dual-mess flywheel.  I was told it is because the way the gears are cut.

At the Santa Cruz tech session the Monster Boxster had a lightweight flywheel and the owner did not complain about the noise.  So cut your roof off and reverse the powertrain unit.

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that's a performance mod right? :P :D

just got it installed (thx akkurat) and the the ol' 996 feels really zippy. i think it'll get even better after the computer relearns my driving habits :D

like everyone else says there are NO drivablility issues. i also got an uprated clutch and still drives like stock. pedal action is actually lighter now, my old clutch was at the rivets :eek:

like everone says there's a rattle at idle with the clutch is disengaged BUT no one ever mentioned the much increased gear noise while driving hard. when accelerating, there is gear noise, not too bad, but the first time heel/toeing into a corner and with heavy compression/engine breaking the gear noise scared the bejezzuz out of me! the vibrations/noise is transmitted up throught the transmission tunnel, through the shifters cable all the way up to the shift knob.

so right now, i am not sure if it is a worth while upgrade in performance, downgrade in comfort. i will be getting some dynamat and applying it to the underside of the center console. if this appears to have any effect then i'll apply more under the carpet.

interesting thing, when the car is cold there is no gear noise but once the car warms up to operating temps the noises come back. can i run a heavier weight transmission oil to counteract the noise?

does anyone have any tricks to lessen the noise?

Hey Loren,

Can you send me instructions for the visor fix?

Thanks!

- Mike

mikey99n@yahoo.com

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You've got a PM...

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hey loren,

me too please :cheers:

thx everyone for all your help. it was great meeting you all. thankfully the weather held out. see you guys next time.