Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
wizard
-
Posts
384 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Events
Forums
External Paint Colors
Downloads
Tutorials
Links Directory
Collections
Store
Everything posted by wizard
-
You might like to check the engine mounts before moving on to the clutch or potentially the gearbox as the source of the problem. Having said that, I cannot understand why any of those would cause power loss.
-
Bleeding the brakes by yourself should not present any problems provided the fluid in the brake reservoir is kept topped up. On the other hand, flushing the system runs the risk of air getting into the ABS/PSM circuit. If that happens, then the ABS module will have to be cycled either with the Porsche equipment or by yourself with a Durametric cable and laptop.
-
You might try 'burping' the system. Does Porsche coolant (yellowy/green) and Audi G12 'mix' without potential gelling?
-
'99 Coolant Issues...
wizard replied to USMC9953's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Buy the original Porsche part, otherwise you may find yourself in the same predicament (or worse) one year down the road. -
Schoolboy error = Engine light on......
wizard replied to Miles Monroe's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Try a battery disconnect, but I suspect that the answer to your question is no. -
2003 Boxster S...what is this sound ?
wizard replied to Pete03S's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
If you're lucky, part of your problem may be a blown E6 fuse. -
Yes, pin corrosion from moisture inside the connector. Dampness inside the door would show up in the form of corrosion. If there's no dampness or corrosion visible, it's highly unlikely that a sealed connector would have moisture inside. One other thought has occurred. From what you explained, you have a switch on the driver's door which controls one-touch for both windows. The one-touch doesn't work for either window using that switch, but does work using the passenger side switch. The switch arrangement on my car is different. If I've understood that correctly, maybe the problem lies in the driver side door switch?
-
O.K. On the bottom of the (my) door there are 4 black grommets which provide access to the window adjusters. It might be an idea to remove and look inside to see if there's any dampness/corrosion on the inside of the door. You will, of course, need a strong torch to see right to the top inside. If not, then I guess pin corrosion is not a likely cause. I can't really suggest anything else. Sorry.
-
The black boot on my car appears to be attached with a small torx bolt at the bottom. I'll try to put a photo up of the one I'm referring to, which is on the body of the car and not the door itself. On the assumption that the plug-in point is behind that black boot, it might be an idea to see if that is the case before looking at door panel removal, if that's necessary. I'm just guessing here, but pin corrosion is a possibility.
-
On my car, there's a large, black connector between the door hinges which presumably carries the wiring loom. Does that look in any way as if it has been disturbed / not fitted correctly? Before considering a new motor, i'd look for instructions as to how to disconnect that connector and check that there hasn't been a water ingress / that the pins are as they should be and that it's clean inside.
-
Hi .... and apologies. It's 1 cm, not 1 mm. iPads and the auto correct !!!!
-
Hello. I've a 2003 2.7, but I would assume that the window set up is the same. Just been out to check. My windows are as delivered from the factory and, measured from the uppermost point of the window, they 'set' at 1mm below the top of the outer weatherstrip. I think that's about half an inch ?
-
Key in door lock will not work
wizard replied to longrowe's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
At least it saves you a trip to Behbehani :-) -
Key in door lock will not work
wizard replied to longrowe's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
+1 to what RFM has suggested. Ensure that you lock and unlock the car with remote before it goes into sleep mode after 5 days(?) -
Hi. Having read that misfires can throw off deviation readings, there's a possibility that the problems originate from the coil packs, i.e. a comparatively easy fix. That will depend initially, of course, on what you find on the dissected oil filter. For want of a proper magnet, I usually run a fridge magnet across it to separate out the metallic stuff. I'm sure that you've already looked at the posts tagged below this one. Do you have a record of when or if your coil packs have been replaced and, were you by any chance driving in heavy rain when the CEL came on ? You might also care to listen to each bank whilst the engine is idling. I've found sticking my ear to the plastic-handled end of a long screwdriver works in order to discern audible differences between the banks. Until you've got a clearer direction as to the problem, I'd be reluctant to drive the car. Caveat : I am not a mechanic - just an enthusiast who has an owned-from-new 2003 Boxster. So, please feel free to ignore any or all of my suggestions :-)
-
As I understand it, it's not necessary to drain the oil when removing the filter. You might want to check that through Google. Whilst underneath, you might also have a look at the integrity of the coil packs and spark plugs on that bank - and also an earth I believe. That may or may not be a contributory factor. R&R. I imagine that it would greatly depend on one's mechanical skill and equipment available. It would be far beyond my capabilities I think ! Once again, Googling that turns up a wealth of information, including YouTube videos of the entire process.
-
Likely - not necessarily to diagnose but to repair. Do you know what the deviation was on the other bank, and whether these deviations were constant or fluctuated with a warm engine at idle?
-
G'day. It could be a number of things. As I suggested, I'd first look at what's been trapped in the oil filter - metallic (not magnetic, iPad auto-correct !!) or otherwise. If you are paying for diagnostics, it might be an idea from both a cost and convenience standpoint to invest in the basic Durametric. From experience, it more than recovers its cost outlay.
-
Camshaft deviation on Bank 1 is well over spec. It it were mine, my first step whilst the car is parked up would be to remove, dissect and open out the oil filter to determine if any/how many particles have been trapped - magnetic or otherwise, and their colour. Do you have a Durametric and, if so, is the deviation constant or fluctuating on a warm, running engine?
-
You might want to check your coil packs when changing your plugs - sooner rather than later.
-
On the assumption that your battery was disconnected, after reconnecting, there is a learning and adaptation routine, I believe. Might I suggest you try that if you haven't already. Disconnect battery for one hour and then reconnect. Turn on ignition for 60 seconds without starting the vehicle. Turn off the ignition but leave the key in the switch for at least 10 seconds. Do not touch the accelerator during this process.
-
Good for you, stv. I'm not a technical person, but I would imagine that your exhaust leak will be affecting the oxygen sensors in the exhaust which then affect fuel/air metering ....... and boost ? I'd get the exhaust sorted sooner rather than later. Happy motoring !
-
Good morning, stv. Firstly, the MAF sensors. Might I suggest that you clear the codes, run the engine again and see whether 1145 comes back. Are you still getting excessive smoke from the exhaust and, if so, what colour ? Obviously you need to seal the exhaust leak. Condensation from the exhaust is normal until the engine has heated up. Your oil is presumably the normal colour ?
-
On reflection, I don't think petrol is the issue. I have read that a faulty MAF sensor can also affect shifts in the automatic transmission, as you described. Cleaning or replacing the sensors (two in your case, I believe) is not particularly difficult provided great care is taken if you should decide to clean them as the first step.
