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wizard

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Everything posted by wizard

  1. Have you checked that your alternator is putting out 14.4v or thereabouts?
  2. You must let us all into the secret as to how you have managed to make a battery (Moll?) last for 14 years (-: I'd change it/them.
  3. If you do a search on here for 'stutter and hesitation if fuel level above 1/4 tank!' that documents an epic! LewisWeller's March 27 2017 post (page 6) may be worthwhile looking at. However, fault codes at the outset should prove invaluable.
  4. I yield to an electrical expert on that ... which I am most definitely not. Fuel sender wiring issues have been known to cause cluster 'abnormalities'.
  5. Do your side mirrors and Tiptronic work normally? Did you by any chance refuel the car just prior to this incident?
  6. Hopefully all is well with your car now. It seems that fresh oil in the correct quantity works wonders :-) Whenever I see the abbreviation IMS it prompts checking the oil filter for debris, and reading for any fluctuation in the camshaft deviation value on each bank with the engine hot. My reference to your clutch was merely in case oil from the RMS was to come into contact with the clutch plate and if that clutch plate was newish.
  7. Unfortunately, the operative words in this case are "if it's ..." Again, if it was me, I'd drop, cut open and inspect the oil filter. The cost of an oil filter and one litre of oil would be worth at least the peace of mind that the problem is not so serious as to result in bits of metal circulating in the oil. Hooking up a Durametric cable and looking at actual values would provide even greater peace of mind, of course. I drive a Tiptronic but I believe that (if it is an RMS leak and depending upon the severity) an RMS leak can result in an oil-saturated clutch plate. Is a clutch replacement anywhere near due on your car?
  8. IMG_2768 points to what could be a leaking rear main seal (RMS). I'd thoroughly de-gunk the area and then see from where the leak originates. Your car is presumably manual transmission?
  9. The Boxster S takes 22 litres +/- (5.8 US gallons) to fill from empty. That's 11 litres of coolant. It's ill-advised to mix different coolants. Once done and you have the engine running, don't forget to open the burp valve for bleeding air from the system ... and keep a close eye on engine temperature.
  10. Just a stab in the dark but, 1300 rpm +/- is the point at which Variocam kicks in. If you have a Durametric, that should tell you whether Variocam activation is in any way related to your problem.
  11. If none of the above, check your battery and check the electrical component of your ignition switch.
  12. My advice was based on the "wobbly crankshaft" scenario. I hope that it is (only) a duff aircon compressor. Let us know what the problem is ... and good luck.
  13. The only piece of advice that I can give is not to drive your car until you know how serious the problem is. My first step would be to remove the oil filter, sift the oil which is in the bottom of the filter canister and cut open the filter itself to inspect if there are any ferrous particles in particular in there which obviously should not be there. P.S. You don't need to drain the oil from the sump ... just remove the filter.
  14. I'm not familiar with a Cayenne, but, just on a hunch, have you tried filling the radiator directly through the appropriate hose to see if there's a lock there? Is the new water pump a Porsche part?
  15. As Ahsai says, if it is brake fluid, you'll see clear evidence of that on your paintwork pretty much immediately.
  16. My thoughts? In technical matters, I believe that it's always best to go with what the manufacturer recommends. I have a ZF Tiptronic on my Boxster; I live near to and have spoken to a ZF transmission expert at their facility in Koblenz and he strongly recommended sticking strictly to the fill level prescribed ... at the temperature prescribed, I really don't think that them selling me one more or one less litre of Lifeguard 5 ATF is going to do much for their bottom line. Who manufactures the Panamera PDK transmission? Just my thoughts.
  17. When somebody takes good care of their car, there is little that can be said in a situation such as that other than commiserations. I wish you good luck.
  18. You mentioned at the outset that you had got yourself a "pretty rough 2001 ...". Was the car driveable when you bought it? I ask this as perhaps fuel delivery is an alternative area for investigation. After battery disconnection, there is indeed a short 'relearning' procedure. From memory, it's key on (but not start) for one minute followed by key off (but left in ignition switch) for 30 seconds. You're best to Google that to verify as my memory is not what it was!
  19. Would you be able to identify the plug that you removed from cylinder no.6 for closer inspection? As you are presumably intent on working on the car yourself, I would be considering an investment in a Durametric. The car must be throwing codes, and shooting in the dark can prove costly.
  20. Replacing the coolant reservoir cap with the latest '04' version is possibly the least expensive preemptive maintenance that there is on a Porsche. Strongly recommended.
  21. Have you cleared those codes subsequent to cleaning your MAF and have they returned? Is your car manual or Tiptronic? Does the part number on the blue cap to your coolant reservoir end with '04'? Your engine oil is presumably as it should be with no condensation under the cap?
  22. If your testing of (idle) pulleys did not include checking your water pump pulley for play whilst you had the belt off, it may be a good idea to do so if only to rule that out. You haven't mentioned anything about temperature so presumably that is normal when the engine is up to full operating temperature?
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