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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. Keep cutting back until you get to shiny copper color. The gray are corroded wires - caused by water being drawn up into the wire by capillary action.
  2. You've posted this in a thread in a forum for a completely different model than you have. Chances are - people here won't know. I'd suggest reposting it over in: https://www.renntech.org/forums/forum/31-9pa-9pa1-cayenne-cayenne-s-cayenne-turbo-cayenne-turbo-s/ That forum is where the question belongs - and searching it for rear-view camera posts might also be productive.
  3. There should be no valve to the inside of the cabin. The rubber drain tube mounts to the drain and there is a tab that helps pull it on. Once you remove the bastard clamp on it - you may be tempted to throw it away (the clamp), I wouldn't discourage you from doing this. It's only there to keep people from sticking their toes up under the panel under the dash and pushing it free. My '11 has the clamp, my '06 did not - and it never came loose. What I'd suggest for the drain hose - disconnect it from the HVAC box (with a broiler pan under it to catch the quart or so of water that's going to pour out) - then give it a big-*** (tech term) tug inwards toward the cabin. It will pop out of the firewall. It can then be really cleaned and you can cut off the flapper on the end of it that is the cause of the thing plugging up to begin with. Plan on replacing the cabin filter - the bottom 2" of it will be water soaked. Most big-box car parts stores carry a suitable replacement, the brand isn't critical - fit is. There are write-ups on doing this whole job with pics over on the Cayenne DIY forum at rennlist.
  4. If you can find a performance shop that works on differentials, or even a 4-wheeler shop that does things like other brand transfer cases - there isn't anything magic I see in the Porsche case that would cause them a problem. Be worth Googling your area for shops like that.
  5. You may want to checkout: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1079182-958-gts-transfer-case-rebuild-wish-me-luck.html#post15148042 and: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1080636-transfer-case-teardown-pictures.html We're (Rennlist) hoping for a good DIY with photos. There is another chap there doing his case and he's promised to video it. I would imagine any competent shop would be able to handle it. The failure really appears to be caused by rust in the clutch pack, giving some credence to Porsche's modification of the case vent.. and to change the oil at semi-regular intervals (pretty much settled at 20,000 miles for mine.. the oil is cheap. It's easy to do.) Although this chap did change the chain - he didn't offer photos of the new vs old chain side by side to see if there is any significant stretch.. so I'd be less concerned with that. What it does show is the transfer case is not undersized - there appears to be no notching of the clutch pack teeth or housing which could be expected if it was undersized.
  6. Fan control overcurrent appears to be a very commonly reported fault - without a clear cause. It should indicate that the fan drew too much current making the electronic protection system for it stop it - but I've never heard of that actually happening. I get that error message almost every time I scan my '11 Turbo... and the fan works fine. From listening to the system, under certain conditions (more common when it's cold out) when on vehicle startup I can hear the fan start, then hear it bog down a bit and the airflow drop as some flaps reposition themselves in the HVAC box. Only takes a few seconds to happen - and that slowdown may be due to blocked airflow by the flaps that then clears up when they get to the desired position. The slowdown has the possibility to cause this sort of error message IMHO.
  7. The transmission doesn't really connect to the engine. While you might refuse to consider the head gasket - it is always a possibility. Be worth pulling the spark plugs and looking at them and the cylinders. If one is especially clean and carbon free - there is a coolant leak into that cylinder. Good luck with it.
  8. Are both fans running? At high speed (sounds like a jet plane taking off..)? That's the first place to look.
  9. I assume these are the HID smart lights on a turbo.. the body control modules probably tell the lights the height of the suspension. The smart lights (I forget Porshe's name for them..) also move when you're turning corners. Have you tried clearing the codes to see if they reoccur? That's always the first step in Cayenne troubleshooting. Something as trivial as a low battery voltage condition can cause modules to throw codes. If they do reoccur - it's time to look at the wiring bundles that live under the front footwells carpeting. Entirely possible that some water intrusion has happened sometime along the way and caused bad connections on splices in those bundles. Luckily - it's fairly easy to remedy.. just a PITA.
  10. Wonder how much the cams were off? If the cams are far enough off valves will get bent.. there is valve to valve collision. There isn't valve to piston collision on the turbo due to the clearance being greater for the lower compression on the turbo engine. BTDT, ended up with 2 rebuilt heads with about 12 valves replaced.. and all the valves removed, cleaned and checked.
  11. That type of clip on a Cayenne - usually the metal part of it is mounted into the recess it goes into - then the plastic stab is pushed into it. Remove the metal bits - put them up in the mount where they belong - and then push the light assembly up as far as it goes. BTW - what camera setup did you use? And I'd be interested in seeing a video from it to see what the quality is..
  12. Can you point me to some threads where the transfer case servo motor fails? I've been keeping track of the failures - and it appears to me that the most common problem on the 958 transfer case (which is entirely different from the 2-speed case used on the 955/597) is the internal clutch deteriorating. But if you've seen other than that - please point me to it.. BTW - in this thread - yours is the first mention of the stepper motor, and in: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/986001-transfer-case.html and https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-958/287782-2011-cayenne-transfer-case-replaced.html I can't recall a single mention of a failed stepper motor. This thread specifically addresses what fails: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1035471-transfer-case-what-actually-fails-2.html And has a photo of a chunk of one of the clutch friction plates someone found in their oil when they drained it..
  13. Ashish, Again - I wouldn't panic over 10-20cc spillage. The design of the case is such that 800CC would provide adequate oil to lubricate it. The only difference might be that a smaller than 850CC oil fill may result in it warming up quicker than normal. I wouldn't be concerned about it a lot, but since I know you, like I am likely an OCD Porsche owner - buy another bottle and use some sort of filler to get the oil to the level of the bottom of the threads on the filler opening. That's the "official" level - which even 850CC's doesn't quite reach.
  14. I guess you'll find out when you install it if that fixes your problems. I've yet to hear of one doing this - so let us know how it works out. And the unplugged transfer case test is one the dealerships apparently use to determine if the transfer-case is at fault. I wouldn't drive it any real distance that way - but around a parking lot, it's unlikely to hurt anything.
  15. Ashish - I suspect Porsche put 850ml in, expecting you to use 850ml. I wouldn't be overly concerned about spilling 10-20ml. The oil is circulated through the transfer case by both the action of the chain running through the bottom of the case (below the fill port) and what appears to be some sort of pump flooding the clutch area (which is up high in the case.) It will continue to do this even missing 20ml. The only real effect the missing 20ml might have is to cause the case to run a few degrees warmer than if it has 850ml in it.
  16. Sloop, What did they do for $230 as far as "service"? Just curious. The list price for the Porsche fluid is around $50 or so (widely available for $40-45), and it takes about 10 minutes tops to change it. They may have replaced the fill and drain plugs - which would add about $30 in parts to the bill. Seems the charge is excessive - but I guess getting out of a Porsche service department for less than $300 has to be considered a bargain.. (I did get out for less than $200 a week or so ago when I had my brake fluid flushed. That did seem an OK charge since it took 2 techs to do it - and it took them about 45 minutes..)
  17. I'd be very interested if you can install the modified breather tube. As far as I can see - the breather is on the very top of the transfer case, and only really accessible with the case removed. And the piping for the vent going up into the engine compartment - it also appears to need the transfer case removed to install. Let us know if changing the fluid helps the performance issue.
  18. It's possible the transfer drive motor has crapped out - but surprising - it's not a common failure on the 958 series. More common is the entire transfer case - that will give the symptoms you describe as "hesitant and jerky". One test for the motor is to unplug it (it will give a warning message) and try driving a short distance. If unplugging it clears up the bad behavior - then chances are that the transfer case is on it's way out. I'm surprised you could find a 4 year old turbo with no miles on it. Is there a back story to this? One thing worth checking when oddball electrical problems start occurring - is the condition of the battery. That's particularly suspect if the car sat unused for 4 years - and still has the original battery in it. You can opt to display a voltmeter function on the multi-instrument-display in the dashboard - be worth seeing what the engine off voltage is. Ideally 12.7V engine off.. and it shouldn't drop below 10V when the engine is cranking. The other possibility is corroded wiring in the front footwells. ALL Cayennes are prone to having drains plug up due to debris that falls on the vehicle and then is washed down into the drains. There are several cowl drains that are accessible by pulling back the inner fender liners. It is not at all uncommon for these to become plugged up, causing flooding inside the vehicle - under the carpeting. The fix is to clean them out - and most people remove the rubber drain that sits in them, allowing debris to pass through in the future. Then once they're cleaned out - the carpeting has to be pulled up, and the corroded connections found and fixed. Not a trivial job. There are threads on the drain issue on rennlist.com - and there may be some here. I know there are threads on repairing the wiring on rennlist. Good luck!
  19. I would agree with Loren on using the latest Porsche fluid. It has recently dropped in price in the US - down to about $45 / 850cc - which is one oil change. The alternatives aren't a lot cheaper. The issue that Ashish may have experienced might have been caused by the difference in rolling diameter when the tire was under-inflated. The smaller diameter would cause that wheel to turn more revolutions per mile than the other wheels on the car. The transfer case only balances out front to back torque balance - but if one tire is badly underinflated - it's possible it caused extra stress on the case clutch. As Loren suggested - fix the tire/wheel issue - then change the oil and see what the results are. Let us know how it works out for you.
  20. Just check the threads on the transfer case woes. I'd suggest also visiting rennlist.com - and check the 958 Cayenne subforum. There is an extensive sticky thread there.
  21. Tom, you may want to read up on the actual thermostat housing: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-958-2011/1045931-2011-2014-serious-issue-coolant-pipe-glue.html I would certainly consider at least JB_Weld'ing those pipes in place while you have it apart and accessible.. if not replacing the housing.
  22. While anything is possible with enough money - in this case - the money spent to do this would seem excessive to me. Problem is - as with almost all German cars - if an option wasn't spec'd when the vehicle is built - the wiring for it simply isn't there. And it's not simple to add the wiring since it's usually part of another harness, which may wander throughout the vehicle. The factory system (from memory) has 4 antennas - one for each wheel, located behind the wheel well liners. There is likely a control unit also. Adding this much equipment, then creating a custom wiring harness to make it all work, and enabling the function in the Gateway/ECU - would likely run into the several thousands of dollars range. There are systems made for aftermarket installation. They typically use a small display, requiring 12V power/ground, and 4 RF equipped wheel sensors. Cost is more in the $100-200 range for these. Problem is - where to put the display where it would be visible but not intrusive. I'd have to sit in mine to come up with an answer for that.. This propensity of the Germans to never add an unused wire is probably ecologically sound practice, and even engineering sound practice - but it does make retrofitting anything to a vehicle a really expensive chore if you want to go with OE equipment.
  23. A recall is for an issue with the potential to cause injury or death to the driver, passengers or surrounding people. Manufacturers look at recalls as a black eye. If they get serious ones like the Chevy ignition switch, you know there will be people lining up with personal injury attorneys waiting for their chance to sue Porsche for real, or imagined injuries. A recall is a last resource for a manufacturer. Some manufacturers - when faced with a potential recall will setup a "service campaign" where they fix the problem when a vehicle arrives in their shop. That's generally done at their expense (usually billing back part or all of the cost to the OE manufacturer who supplied them with the failing component, if they didn't build it themselves.) Toyota/Lexus love to do this - it's why my wife's Lexus gets dealer oil changes - there is almost always some issue that is addressed for free while the car is there getting the oil changed. NHTSA is where "recalls" in the USA come from. They have a website. There are forms on the website for reporting issues that have caused injury/death, or you feel have the potential to cause injury or death. If enough people make identical complaints about an issue - the issue will usually percolate up to the actual human employees of NHTSA who are in charge of investigating the reports. An example of this process working would be the "Camshaft-Controller-Recall" (Porsche's name for it.. I'd call it a Variocam recall..) In threads discussing this problem on several forums, instructions were given on how the reporting process works - and how to most effectively report an issue (several things have to be identical in order to build up the "mass" of reports that will trigger an investigation.) People did report the issue to NHTSA (not just complain on the forum) - and there were some very credible reports of close calls for serious injury since the failure could result in a vehicle with no brakes, power steering barreling down a freeway. The mass of reports was enough to catch the eye of a defect investigator, who then reached out to a few people asking for additional information. The information supplied to them was copies of recalls that Porsche had issued in other countries for the identical problem. At that point Porsche was notified of the investigation, and apparently felt it might be best to be pro-active in it - and they voluntarily issued a recall. Whew... so that's what has to be done if you expect a recall to happen. Some manufacturers avoid recalls by offering buyers an extended warranty on the part in question (BMW loves this - they've given out 100k engine guarantees on multiple engines any number of times - to avoid a recall.) The highest number I've seen on these extended warranties is typically 100k miles. BMW-Motorad (motorcycle side) has an extended warranty in place for 12 years, unlimited miles for a fuel gauge sender that regularly fails - and people run out of fuel on their motorcycle in risky conditions. That was done in response to a similar campaign that was coordinated on a BMW motorcycle club forum I'm a moderator/member of. NHTSA expressed interest in it (other manufacturers, both bike and car - have had recalls for similar failures.) BMW extended the warranty. So far - I've had about 10-11 of the fuel senders fail and replaced at no cost to me. I'd be much happier if they'd simply solve the problem though. So one other thing - a recall is only really a solution IF the manufacturer has devised a way to solve the problem. In the case of the transfer case - it's not clear that they have. This went on a bit longer than I thought it might when I started it. If it gives anyone ideas - I'd be happy to discuss the NHTSA process off-line with you. DISCLAIMER: I have nothing to do with NHTSA. The above ramblings may well be the spurious thoughts of a madman - or not. Use at your own risk. YMMV. LSMFT. I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express this past week though.
  24. It's amazing to me that Porsche basically tells you to never change the driveline fluids.. with active clutches in the transfer case and the torque-vectoring rear diff - its certain that the fluid will deteriorate - due to sheering from the clutch, and material worn from the clutch. WHAT are they thinking?
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