deilenberger

IIRC - this is a rather common failure - of the woofer amp. Usually after it gets wet from a flooded tire-well. Fix is a new amp.

I think the clue is "(ok, the ignition coils were not due, the candles yet, so another 100 euros to do so). "..

If the cluster problem is a fading monochrome (orange) display screen - there are replacement screens being sold on Ebay for the $150/range.. Supposedly comes with simple directions for replacement.

At a local flea-market near me used laptops show up all the time for $50-100. Most have batteries that won't hold a charge for long, but that isn't a problem since you have 12V in the P!G (and adaptors are available) or 115V in your garage. Make it a dedicated garage computer. I have several kicking around that I only use for diagnostics tools. A used Netbook running XP will also work fine with a Durametic. I wouldn't be concerned about processor speed/cores - a single core processor will work just fine, the program may run a tad slower, but do you really care? It's not like you're going to be using it 8 hours a day 5 days a week. For the $100 for a used laptop/netbook is it really worth porking-up (tech-term) your everyday computer?

TV wasn't an option in the US model cars - since a majority of people on this forum are in the US with US cars they are simply baffled by what you're referring to. Is there a UK based Cayenne forum?

They had me at: Thorough Hand Washed Cleansing Process Removes all metal and clutch particles. Aqueous Solvent Cleaning. Aqueous - like water? Mebbe with a bit of detergent?

Lawyer Bob, I have no doubt you're a great lawyer, and there are other great lawyers.. but when I see a lawyers fee of $4,500,000 (which I believe is what the class action law firm in this settlement gets) vs their expenses (which are also being paid) of $250,000 - well, it appears fee is excessive.. That irks me. If this was being handled on a normal contingency basis - the law firms would be entitled to 1/3rd of the settlement and expenses, which to me sounds like a fair return. These sort of fee awards do nothing to advance the feeling of trust the average person has in the law profession. Speaking as a non-member of the lawyer class. As far as US courts having jurisdiction over Porsche AG - they certainly have jurisdiction over Porsche North America, so there was a safe target they could go after. BTW - thanks for this surfacing again. I just dug out my paperwork and see I have about a month to get the claim in. Have to do that tomorrow.

Looks like you did a code readout. Chances are you have a coil failing. Which can show intermittently. WhisperBlade - I know living in Canada you probably fear the scored cylinder #5 problem - but it's actually rather rare, and probably unknown in London UK where it rarely gets much below freezing. With these sort of issues - step by step diagnostics, starting with the simple stuff (like reading the codes - if a misfire is shown as he mentions I'd be moving coils around and see if the fault follows the coil) is really what should be done first - rather then yelling "FIRE" or "EBOLA" and causing panic.

BTW - just curious - has anyone in the US actually collected on the class-action settlement? Buhler?

That's true of almost every class-action lawsuit I've seen. Claimants get pennies - the lawyers for the defendant and the claimants make a fortune. There is basically something wrong with the class-action laws in the US, and the judges who award the silly lawyer fees.

That's an air-valve. And the size of the hose connecting to it is about 13mm.. and the outlet of the valve into the glovebox even smaller. If you can notice the difference in air-temperature in the cabin with that open or closed you are much more sensitive than the normal human being. I can't barely tell if it's open or closed feeling inside the glovebox. IMHO - the idea is poorly executed and pretty much a joke.

You can take it out of the loop back at the changer connection. There is a loop through female connector available that you simply plug the CD fiber connector into - and the signal is looped out of the incoming fiber and into the outgoing fiber. Then at the back of the head unit, you unplug the connector and remove the incoming (return) fiber from the connector and put it into a new connector in the incoming position. You then use a short length of fiber to connect the outgoing connection on the new connector to the incoming return position on the plug that goes into the back of the PCM. Plug your new connector into the Gateway and it should now be the last item in the loop. The loop still goes to the back of the vehicle - but it just loops through, just like it would if the CD changer wasn't installed originally. Not sure all the parts you need are included with the kit IIRC - it's been a long time since I did it. I had ordered the cable extension kit - which is supposed to be used to reconnect the CD changer (to the other port on the Gateway.) It came with two pairs of extension fibers and the needed connectors for them. Turns out only one pair was needed - so I had extra fiber and connectors available to use. And since I'd added the CD changer - I also had the loop-through used back there - since the car wasn't delivered with a changer (but was pre-wired for it.) You might have to locate one of these somewhere (I know it can be ordered from Porsche for silly money, but I seem to recall finding them available for little money out on the Interwebz. At least that's what I remember now - been almost 4 years since I did this little project.

You do have to swap around some of the MOST fibers if you mount it behind the radio so they CD changer is out of the loop and the interface replaces it. It's not hard to do - but the loop is directional, so making a drawing of what needs doing is worthwhile. I believe the Dension instructions give you some idea of how to do this. If you mount it where the changer is - using the fiber going to the back of the changer, you just unplug the connector from the back of the changer and plug it into the interface. That takes the changer out of circuit obviously and replaces it in the loop with the interface. FWIW - it's been several years since I did this.. so I may be full of fudge..

Excellent posting! Thanks for taking the time to write it up!

NIck - a bit of searching might turn up some useful info. No reason to reinvent the wheel. If you're installing the 500S - you may as well eliminate the CD changer. They both can't function at the same time (you have to disable the 500S to make the changer work) and while I did buy the extended cable kit so I could keep the changer - it was useless, I've NEVER used it since I installed the 500. Instead I found a 4G classic iPod for cheap (has a weak battery - which doesn't matter for this use) and ripped ALL my CD's to it (about 2,500 tracks) and it lives in my console, never removed. The 500 keeps it charged well enough even with the weak battery. As a quick suggestion - you could mount it in place of the CD changer and if you're nimble with your fingers and have small hands you should be able to remove the optical cable connector from the changer and plug it right into the 500S. You then need to run the microphone forward (they sell an extension cable for it) and the auxiliary in and iPod connector (they also sell extensions for those), not too awful a job. OR - take the changer out of the loop where it connects at the back of the radio (your installation manual explains how) and install the 500S in that area. It is VERY tight up there, not a lot of room for it, but I have mine wedged behind the radio. The cables that came with it will be long enough to get into the console and you can mount the bypass/reset switch inside the glove box. As far as step by step - it's outlined here somewhere, a search should turn it up. Search on "dension" (and try "Denison" also - a lot of people misspell it.)

It would have seemed prudent to buy the Durametic before purchasing what was undoubtably hundreds of dollars of parts.. Just a thought. Diagnostics usually saves money in the long run over throwing parts at a problem. And your mechanic sounds like someone to keep the P!G away from. Look for a new mechanic.

I'm assuming you got this fixed - but my law of troubleshooting applies.. "Look where you last worked.." - probably the heater connector came loose?

Just figured I'd follow up..the dealer managed to get Porsche to cover these, despite CPO being over.. Took the P!G in, told them I'd wait. About 30 minutes later the service manager came out and told me one had become disconnected. They reconnected it and all was fine. So... yes - it CAN happen. In this case by the dolt at the recycling center trying to open the hatch too far.

No - it won't stay up on it's own now. When it first happened - it stayed about half-way up. The same day it stopped staying half-way up. The recess for the ball on the strut just pops over the ball on the body/hatch?

Have the coolant pipes under the intake been done? That's the most common failure point for 955 V8's. And 10 liters is an astounding amount of coolant to lose. I would have been concerned after 1 liter. Cooling systems do NOT CONSUME coolant. If they need "topping up" there is a leak. It's really that simple.

I had the struts replaced under CPO on 11/12 - about 6,000 miles ago (I mostly use my motorcycle.. the Porsche gets very few miles on it.) I recently went to our local county recycling center with some containers of motor oil in the back. You aren't supposed to get out of the car at the recycling center (safety concerns apparently) - so the guys there had to open the hatch. They had trouble finding the button, and when they did they sort of flung the hatch open. It went up about 2/3rds of the way - rear edge about eyeball level for someone standing behind the P!G. They tried opening it further, but it went back to the 2/3rds height. They unloaded the oil and then really slammed the hatch closed. When I got home I tried opening it - and it is VERY VERY heavy now. The tailgate window feels normal, so I'm guessing those struts are OK. Looking at photos of the hatch - it appears most of the assistance in opening the hatch is done with the big spring on the struts. Anyone had one end of a strut come loose? That's about all I can think of that would cause the hatch to become as heavy as it feels now... if one strut came loose that spring isn't helping to open it. I know people have changed their own struts - how are they fastened at the ends to the hatch and body of the truck?

Do you have the detailed color line diagram of the fuel system? If not - PM me and give me your email and you will have it. It helps make sense (as much as possible) of the rats nest of hoses, and what flows where.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Harbor Freight has one for around $35 that is quite good actually. Knowing that you have the correct fuel pressure and that the system maintains pressure when shut down is step #1. Bad MAF's will not cause fuses for the fuel pumps to blow. One has to look at the systems logically, not just throw parts at it (although that's what Porsche eventually did with mine - replaced EVERYTHING in the fuel supply system. Last thing they replaced was the problem of course..) There are several check valves in the system, some undocumented (one in the fuel filter isn't listed anywhere..) If you PM me your email address I'll send along some documentation I tracked down when I had fuel problems with my P!G - there is a reference in them to the black angle-pipe..

Uninstall the Mobridge and see if the issue resolves itself (Eilenberger's Law of Troubleshooting - Look where you last worked..) If it does contact Mobridge and see if they have an answer.

Because they're a good parts house. The angled adaptor is for one of the hoses going to the fuel filter (I believe - could be the pressure regulator) that bent at an odd angle and eventually failed or kinked without the right angle adaptor. You might search around a bit for a current tech document explaining where the adapter belongs.