Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

DK570

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    71

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DK570

  1. DK570
    Anyone else have this problem recently? I was driving with just under 1/4 tank when I got a fuel level indicator failure on the display under the tach. The needle then dropped to 0 and the red low fuel light started to flash. It flashed for a little while than stopped. I filled up the tank, it seems to be working now. I suspect it will probably fail again though next time a reach under 1/4 full. Maybe unrelated, but just before the failure I could hear a strange noise from in front of the dash. It sounded like the stereo was on very quietly, but it was off. Is the consensus I need a new sending unit? I looked in the Pelican book, seems pretty straight forward to replace. Very convenient that I don't have to remove that tank. Any major differences since I have a C4? I think I access the sender from the metal dome in front of the battery, rather than under it.
  2. DK570
    It's probably the ball joint. The whole lower arm will need to be replaced, you won't be able to move it by hand with the wheel off. You can open the hood and use the frunk as a point to load instead of the bumper. I had the problem a while back, if you search wou might be able to find my post. I forget if it was here or rennlist. I haven't had a problem with the other 3 corners, luckliy.
  3. DK570
    I just did this today on my 2002, it was actually easier than I expected. Thanks pongobaz for the write up!
  4. DK570
    What fluid is everyone using? I had planned to switch to blue fluid when I flushed the system to easily identify the new stuff, but that's no longer an option. I recently posted this chart on another forum: I guess because of the ABS system, SL6 would be the preferred fluid?
  5. DK570
    Another question to being this thread back to life. Does anyone know why when I search for a 2001 996 battery the results are for size 48, but when I search for a 2002 996 battery, the results are for size 94R? Will a size 48 fit a 996.2? They seem to be a little cheaper with a little less CCA's.
  6. DK570
    It sounds like you want to do the respray, so I'd say go ahead and do it. I wouldn't worry about the value, it will be a very very long time (I would guess 30+ years) before these cars are sought after in all original condition. I did a respray on my front bumper, previous owner did rear bumper, it all looks good.
  7. DK570
    I never did post what I finally ended up doing. Here's what it looks like now:
  8. DK570
    Last winter I installed Akebono pads from Tire Rack. Work great on a street vehicle with very little dust compared to OEM.
  9. DK570
    I decided the best tool to use was a sawzall. There was no way those clamps were coming apart and being re-usable.
  10. DK570
    Carefully spread the clamp until you can remove the tailpipe. When you re-install them you will likely have to lever them on. A real tight fit. Thanks for the quick response, but I'm not quite sure how to spread it. It's hard to get at, what I've tried so far is using a long flat screwdriver as a wedge. I can get that in between the clamp and tap on it with a mallet. I've given it some hard hits and it will wedge itself further in, but the clamp doesn't seem to be spreading at all. Probably should have mentioned that in my original post.
  11. DK570
    I got my mufflers out, now I'm trying to remove the tailpipes. The nut/bolt on the is clamp loose, but the clamp is still very tight, and I can't get anything to budge. It looks like the clamp is supposed to spring open once the nut is loose, but mine is so rusted, nothing has moved. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
  12. DK570
    When I did coils I found the Beru ones from Vertex to be the best price. I would recommend doing them now. I didn't do mine, then 1.5 years later I had to have them replaced because they started to misfire. I drive year round in Wisconsin, and I can tell you that replacing coils in Feb in a garage that dates from 1923 is not the most fun you can have working on your car. It would have been way less stressful to do them with the plugs. Don't know if you store it for the winter, but I see you're from Wausau.
  13. DK570
    Does the salt really beat the car up? Taking the 996 out there to see how fast it'll go on the salt has been a thought of mine. It looked like a lot of fun when they did it on Top Gear a few years back.
  14. DK570
    That would be approx. 14 mm.
  15. DK570
    I removed the alternator with the Pelican instructions, it tested bad. It's probably just the voltage regulator, but I figured since I already had it all taken apart I ordered a reman alternator from Napa with a lifetime warranty for about ~$250. I really didn't want to have the regulator be the fix knowing that alternators have a finite lifespan. Plus the last two times I tried to do something more cheaply I didn't like the results. I did the cheap ignition switch fix, that worked for about 7 months before it failed again and I replaced the whole lock cylinder. Many people recommend Sumitomo III tires, I bought them since they are so cheap, but am not super happy with them. Oh, and when I changed plugs I didn't do coils, only to have 3 coils die a year later. With my luck, I've decided to be as complete as possible from now on when it comes to replacing parts / preventative maintenance.
  16. DK570
    Hi All,A while back I got codes P0491 and P0492 - Secondary Air Injection. Also had fault 31 Fresh Air Blower Fault. Not really sure how to diagnose I decided to remove the SAI motor to clean and re-grease the bearings. I re-installed and cleared the codes. I really didn't think this would fix the fault, but figured it was easier to do this than to try and find a vacuum leak. Everything was fine for about 400 mi, until today. Could be completely unrelated but I had the battery/generator dash light come on today as well as the CEL. Voltage kept dropping on my drive home. Gage probably read about 10.7 V at the end of the drive. Codes today are P0491 & P0492 (back again) P0562 - Supply Voltage and 24 - Air Con Power Supply. I checked the battery cables up front and the Pos terminal in back, all are tight and corrosion free. Checked the fluid level on the "maintenance free" battery, one cell was a little low, topped it off. So, I'm guessing my alternator has stopped working?? Any thoughts? I checked Pelican, alternators are expensive ~$450, I don't want to start randomly replacing parts w/o knowing it will fix the problem. Is the only way to check an alternator by removing it and taking it to the machine they have at Auto Zone?
  17. DK570
    Too bad my car is a cab, plus I don't consider it worthy of being driven for a magazine. I would want everything nearly perfect - no 2nd gear crunch etc.
  18. DK570
    I finished my install and thought I'd post my experience. I bought a mirror off ebay, everything works on it, good seller. When twisting my old mirror off, the mount came off the windshield, so I decided not to use the VW/Audi/Porsche mirror adapter. Instead I started over by gluing on the more standard wedge mount. I have a cab and then discovered there is not switched power on cabs in the dome light area. So, I routed the wires down to the phone connector in the center console. At this point I discovered that phone connector is very rare and unusual. I emailed Tyco and their response was that it's a propriety BMW connector and they couldn't sell it to me. Becker was the only place I could find that had the mating connector. The only problem with the install is that the mirror vibrates some. This is especially true at high speeds with the top down. I'm hoping the find a way to dampen it. The set screw on the mount is tight, the play is from the ball and socket joints in the mirror.
  19. DK570
    I had the same problem. I contacted Durametric, they sent me a new version that isn't released yet (6.2.3.2). I am now able to calibrate the top, and code 16 is now read as 4. I haven't actually fixed the fault yet, since I'm not sure how, since I haven't done any research. Plus Since summer started, the top has only not worked maybe 4 times, and always stuck in the up position.
  20. DK570
    Anyone know what pins to use to plug into this block? I am trying to wire up an auto-dim mirror, and discovered there is no switched power in the dome light area on cabs. So I decided the center console block would be the next best area. So, I'd like to just crimp some pins on my wires and plug in, but I don't know what pins I need. None of the bullet connectors I have fit, they are all too big. Thanks in advance.
  21. DK570
    I moved the tether from the hole on the lower right to where it is now, not sure why that hole is there. However, then the spring hits it. So, I moved it back to the original hole, but put it in backwards. Seems to work well enough.
  22. DK570
    There is another hole that is slightly bigger that I think I will put the tether on. I'll post a pic later.
  23. DK570
    Ah, I need some quick help! I new I needed a new hinge so I ordered one, and thought the 996 number was superseded by a 997 number. The 997 hinge does not fit though! It hits where the tether attaches. Has anyone had this problem? Currently I have no means of attaching my fuel door, since I have a broken 996 hinge, and a non fitting 997 hinge :( Thanks in advance.
  24. DK570
    That's my DIY. 6 months later: works great, no issues. Easy. Thanks for the DIY. I bought a mirror today off of ebay, hope to install it in about 2 weeks. I have a cab which is slightly different, but it should be basically the same install process.
  25. DK570
    It should easily fit. I've fit mine in the back of a GMT 800 Yukon with the back seats folded down.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.