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clarksongli

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Everything posted by clarksongli

  1. clarksongli
    no when i talk about temp range, i'm referring to the combustion temperature, not coolant. basically plugs are designed for combustion performance....for naturally aspirated economy driving, you typically see a higher temperature range because the burn and flame front is not a large concern (they will typically run large overlap on the intake and exhaust valves to improve fuel economy as well) for a high performance forced induction motor, there is much narrower tolerances for burn rate and flame front in the combustion chamber. Because you are approaching the limits of the octane being used, pre-detonation is more of a concern than with an economy based motor. To reduce this risk, you will see everything from pulling timing, reducing AFR, or a lower temperature plug. The idea is that if the plug runs cooler, there is less activation energy present to cause the detonation....allowing for increased power levels without risk.
  2. clarksongli
    check your driver side intercooler pipe (infront of driver side wheel), most likely is full of oil. the evap setup vents to the driver side turbo.....over the years it will fill with oil, and in general vapor will make it's way to the combustion chamber and burn. Is your oil consumption still low? the other point i might be concerned with are the turbo seals on the bearing housing. As that bearing wears, the tolerance loosens and allows some to bypass into the exhaust and burn. i would suggest valve seals as well, but i have yet to see someone with a valve seal issue. let us know what you find
  3. clarksongli
    I'm guessing these are notes as non cayenne tires is because of the load rating, not speed. max per corner is 2200....with doesn't match up with the GVWR or towing capabilities. Either way, for 322 dollars a tire....i would wonder if there is a better option out there.....you could pick up a set of Conti DWS tires for cheaper than that.....
  4. clarksongli
    There are many ways to do this: 1. Pull tray out, undo the two torx underneath.....remove the ash tray/lighter portion. Reach in there, press the two metal tabs and pull the rest of the tray out. 2. There is a specific tool, and i believe it get's inserted into the two holes in the cup holder trailer....pushing a piece of metal into each hole will release the tabs, and you should be able to pull it out then.
  5. clarksongli
    don't bother with the dremel. Remove the entire thing as an assembly and replace it outside the car. I'm suprised, usually when you order the coolant tee, it comes preassembled.
  6. clarksongli
    the MIL will reset after a few driving cycles, but will log in the NVM for future reference if you pull the code history. But like you said, if you do a quick reset, then you know where you are without having to wait. I'll be honest, very few times have i ever seen plugs as the actual problem.....they are a very simple design, and as long as they are the stock temperature range for the motor, then there is no reason why a plug would all of a sudden stop working. I have had one incident where i burned an electrode off while on the dyno stand doing some tuning, but otherwise, never. Plugs usually represent an issue with something else (fuel/air/electrical). If you move the coil again, i would drive on it for a while
  7. clarksongli
    was 2004 really that bad compared to other years? i've had basic stuff go wrong (battery, coolant pipes, hatch struts) but nothing major. I do maintenance at almost 1/2 the interval (all diffs/TC/AT at 75K). Oil change every 5K.... for the rear hatch glass...i'm curious to know, press and hold the trunk button on the key....see if that opens it. If it does then you know it's the little button on the glass. Stuck cupholders....mine were stuck too when i got it.....i pull them out, cleaned them up and haven't had an issue since.....i think people just spill crap in their car and never try to clean it up. But to answer your question....no the design hasn't changed. knock on wood....my CTT has been good to me
  8. clarksongli
    is that $63 for the porsche specific brand or for the Type IV 'Yota fluid? I believe the Porsche price, rediculous. A lot of people have switched to full synthetic like redline and have had zero issues. I wasn't 100% sure, and so i decided to find the fluid that was originally recommended, which was non synthetic. As you have seen, Type IV is chemically identical to the Porsche fluid. If you need me to buy and ship some ATF to you, let me know....i have a Toyota dealership down the road that does $6 a quart for type IV.
  9. clarksongli
    Pirelli winters here.....similar to everyone else....they wear very quickly. I have several wheel sets so i just change the wheels on and off throughout the winter. Once the Pirelli's are gone, i'll be looking for a better winter tire. For my summer/all season tire i run a Kuhmo STX. GREAT MILEAGE, good snow performance, only 120bucks a tire, but NOISY.....they have a fairly wide tread block pattern, making them decent in snow with a capable driver. They are also a decent offroad tire, and provide decent grip. The tire is pretty hard, so for summer dry driving, they aren't as assuring as maybe a strict performance tire, but i use this thing for daily driving, pulling stumps and trees, and trailing my track car anyways so i'm rarely flying through turns with the CTT.
  10. clarksongli
    nope....other thing (i'm not sure how many tools and what not you have) is to tap into coolant expansion tank and put pressure there.....it'll help push the coolant up into the pump/heater core. Once that air trap is overcome, you can bleed it like normal. If you can reach/pull the pump, you can prime it that way too....pull it and wait for coolant to come out and then reinstall. If you can do it while the engine is on and the heater pump is off that would work too.....just be quick so you don't get a face full of coolant.
  11. clarksongli
    The pump runs all the time when heat is requested....whether the car is on or not. i still doubt the pump is broken....these pumps are not liquid cooled bearings (non hermetic) meaning they can run outside of water without issue.
  12. clarksongli
    yeah the issue is since the heater core pump was running for a while, it most likely evacuated the lines to the heater core. it will bleed out eventually, but make sure the inside heat is ON, so the pump is running....squeeze some hoses and hope for the best.
  13. clarksongli
    i'd be interested, but i'm pretty sure Vred's are fairly soft. Unfortunately tire wear is not easily comparable between companies as it isn't based on standardized testing, but based on track experience, we see these fall in the softer street tire range.....maybe in the 250ish range. Based on similar tires and the weight of the cayenne, i'd imagine you won't see anything close to 3 seasons (especially considering your driving style). I'd guess maybe 10-15k. Another thing to mention (i personally have never run a set myself) a lot of people start notice severe reduced wet traction as the tire wears. This is partially why i have never run them myself (cheaper and comparable tires now especially with 20" tires becoming more of a norm for OEM sized tires).
  14. clarksongli
    i've been doing CF pieces for the vw crowd for a while now and here is my $0.02. "group buys" never work out, people are just too flakey. Try doing it yourself, vacuum presses and tables are awesome for high strength/critical parts, but for interior items, strength is not a concern. I start by making a negative mold of the part in tooling gelcoat, followed by many layers of chopped fiberglass and then with a 2oz glass mat. Once that hardens up you can pop the mold off, make sure it popped clean, then start making your own parts. Because this isn't structural, the resin/fiber ratio isn't super critical, you're really just looking for a clean smooth surface with a good weave quality. just like with anything, prep work 99% of the end result....if the piece isn't clean, or if the gelcoat bubbles up during drying, it will just translate into your CF part. All and all, it takes time, but the results are better and better the more you do it (you'll probably have to wet sad a bunch of early parts because they won't be the best). I enjoy doing everything myself, it's more rewarding.
  15. clarksongli
    no, the inner portion is essentially just a ball and socket joint, so it spins freely. if it were me, i would hit the threads that are visible with a wire wheel to clean are the rust and crap out.....then spray it with some liquid wrench and get on it with a big wrench. the other option is disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and try spinning the rod end off while holding the nut
  16. clarksongli
    the pump does not feed the coolant sensor. A quick check would be to turn the car off and press the "rest" button. You can clearly hear the pump at that point. My guess is that it hasn't failed, you just have some air blockage
  17. clarksongli
    hmm, ok so OEM tire sizes....is your speedometer off compared to a GPS or some other known speed? Is the 11MPG repeating? on each tank fill up?
  18. clarksongli
    well if the plug is fowling (not oil dripping down onto the plug), then it means the plug isn't firing, or firing very weakly. Because we use individual coilpacks on each cylinder, it usually points to a bad coil on the sparkplug. An easy way to check this is swap that coilpack to another cylinder and drive it around....check the spark plugs again.....if the new cylinder is now "oil covered" or fowled, then it's the coil pack....but if the fowling stays with in the original cylinder and doesn't follow the coilpack, you know it's something cylinder/gasket related. how did the electrode look on each plug? clean and lighter ash colored? or dark and oily?
  19. clarksongli
    I'm not 100% on the evom's valves, but they looking like a plunger style, so they would be sensitive to direction. Did the directions have any info on install?
  20. clarksongli
    Pretty easy job....put it on the difficulty level of redoing the cooling pipes. If you look into the hole do you see oil....maybe the plugs are just fouling because of a bad coilpack?
  21. clarksongli
    anything engine/emissions related would show in the MPG gauge on the dash. Because there is such a difference between the two, you're looking for something that isn't "engine" related. So O2 sensors would contribute to bad mileage, but WOULD show on your MPG gauge. What about tire size? Are you running OEM sized tires? A bigger wheel would show less mileage
  22. clarksongli
    i agree with keeping everything 100%. But here's the thing, 1700 dollars is tossing cash down the drain IMO....Not only are they charging you a very high part margin, but they charge you for the job hours on top of that. Part margin is out of control with Porsche....if you buy through a certain dealer out on the westcoast, they do +15%.....which tends to work out to being about 50% off standard dealerships. I do all my own work, everything from gauging and blueprinting motors, to basic oil changes and brake jobs.....much of what i do isn't rocket science, it just takes some time and a willingness to learn. I trust about 2 people to work on my cars (one of them being me). Be honest with yourself as well.....oil changes and brakes are not done by the Porsche Master Mechanics......so more than likely you got someone much less experienced messing around with your car. It's all about how effecient we are with our money, not how much we spend....if you want to toss a 50% margin to Porsche, please go ahead....your donations help Porsche, which susidizes the cost on things for me. Thanks
  23. clarksongli
    the MPG gauge is somewhat bad....it can be off from time to time, so i wouldn't count on it 100% of the time. But back to your question.....11mpg is low, but not that far off....i have CTT, and i know i can go very low, even with a sensitive right foot. But i might start with your fuel system, maybe you have a leak and that's where the issue shows? I would suggest maybe the brakes are frozen and causing drag, but the MPG gauge SHOULD show that.....key word SHOULD.
  24. clarksongli
    Sort of an interesting question here. Diverter valves should only be opening during decel.....the relieve the additional charge pressure back into the low side of the turbos(Inlet). no back to the question. If the valves are opening during boost, that is not right. the other possibility would be the valve seals (evoms use viton o rings) could be damaged allowing boost pressure to bypass the piston. The other option (and i don't know how EVOMs designed the valve, but some utilize the boost pressure to open the valve, while others "counterflow" and use the pressure hold the valve shut. You might have them installed backwards. You won't be able to test inside the car....best suggestion i have would be to pull a valve, jimmy up a tube and a bike pump and try putting pressure on the bottom port to see if the piston opens before a normal PSI/BAR....if it starts to leak at say 5psig, you know the valve is defective.
  25. clarksongli
    another good option is looking into stop-tech.....good prices, low low dust. I've been running a set on my CTT, and am very pleased. The only slight sacrifice i had to make was cold bite, but it's almost not noticeable. They seem very rotor friendly as well.
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