clarksongli

Tools needed: 2 - Jack Stands factory jack or floor jack (not shown) Breaker bar or pipe for tight bolts 1/2" ratchet 3/8" ratchet 4" extension 1/2" drive (roughly) 3" extension 3/8" drive (roughly) 3/8" to 1/4" adapter T-50 Torx bit M16 Triple Square M5 Triple Square 19mm Socket Wheel Lock Socket 5mm Allen key 1.5mm Allen key Pair of pliers or good multitool razor blade or knife Brake Cleaner FLASHLIGHT Optional: a good set of allen keys - obviously mine are craftsman a triple square set - my set comes from here:http://www.germanautoparts.com/Tools/Porsche/Brake+tools a torx bit set - my set comes from here:http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-14-and-38-drive-star-bit-set-67914.html Step One: -turn car on and press/hold the air suspension lever in the UP direction until the display shows "Regulation OFF" (service mode) Remove jack point caps on both sides and raise on side SLIGHTLY so the wheel is still touching the ground Step 2 Loosen lugs with the 19mm socket and and wheel lock socket....don't remove them, just break the torque on them so they can be removed with the vehicle up in the air. Step 3: -Raise vehicle so tire is off the ground - Inset jack stand as shown below. Step 4: -Lower vehicle onto the jack stand and remove lugs and wheel -Repeat steps 1-4 for the other side. Step 5: You should now be looking at something similar to this: - Using the T-50 Torx bit and the M5 Triple square, remove both of the bolts on the rotor hat The T-50 is the rotor set screw and the M5 is the parking brake adjuster window - SAVE THESE! Step 6: - place a large allen key in the vent of the rotor as shown - Rotate the rotor until the site hole is lined up with the adjuster knob....This can be difficult to see and you will need a flashlight. Below is the general orientation when the rotor is lined up Step 7: (this is difficult) - insert the large allen key (or screwdriver) into the hole and feel for the toothed adjuster. - you will need to "flick" the teeth so the adjuster turns and relieves tension on the pads. The adjust will become easy to rotate once the pressure as been relieved. - Below is a picture of how the adjuster looks without the rotor. PASSENGER SIDE ROTATES TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CAR TO LOOSEN, AND THE DRIVER SIDE IS OPPOSITE Step 8: -Disconnect the pad wear sensor by inserting the small allen into the BACK of the connector as shown then pulling the connector loose (wiggle it). Step 9: (This will take some time) Remove cotter pin from pad pin with pliers Using the razor blade or knife, scrape away the crap on the pin. Use your pliers to rotate the pin to access the underside as well. This pin needs to be very clean to be removed, the tolerances on the hole are very tight. Step 10: Drive the pin out using an allen key, or anything that can easily fit through the diameter of the hole This pin should come out easily once the crud is removed. If you find yourself hammering on the pin, stop and go back to cleaning the pin. Press on the pad retainer if needed to remove unwanted tension while removing the pin Step 11: -Slip the pad wear sensor wire out of the caliper slot. An easy way to do this is pull the sheath back and it will come out easily. -Spread the pads open with the end of the 3/8" ratchet, or even with your fingers (it requires force, but should move smoothly with just your hands) Remove pads and spring clip Step 12: Remove the wire grommet from the steel bracket. This isn't necessary but it makes getting to the upper caliper bolt easier as shown below: Step 13: Loosen upper caliper bolt with the M16 triple square -This is where it is helpful to use the extensions and breaker bar (pipe), i was able to drop the handle through the lower control arm and get good leverage from underneath on my back. Repeat Step 13 for the bottom caliper bolt as shown below Step 14: - with both bolts removed, pull caliper up over the rotor and rotate/place onto the control arm. Be careful not to pull very hard or kink any of the lines You can see the caliper position in the background below: Step 15: -Pull old rotor off. It may require some wiggling, but try to pull STRAIGHT out....otherwise the parking brake pads will bind up and prevent the removal. -Install the new rotor and wipe down well with brake cleaner. -reinstall the T-50 retaining bolt (this does not need to be super tight, it is there to simply hold the rotor in place (the clamping force of the lugs take the braking load) Step 16: Adjust the parking brake - line up the window in the new rotor again - rotate the adjust the opposite way until the rotor can no longer be turned by hand - then turn the adjust BACK 6 clicks, and check the disc spins by hand. - Reinstall M5 triple square. Does not need to be super tight, just a window cover bolt. Step 17: Reinstall caliper - Rotate caliper back over new rotor and line up caliper bolts - Install bolts and torque to 166ft/lbs. Or simply very tight (these are grade 12 bolts, with plenty of margin for torque capacity) - Reinstall grommet/cable that was removed in step 12 Step 18: Prepare new pads - Install new pad sensors into pads. The FAT side faces the pad - You can try to remove and reuse the old sensors, but they are difficult to remove, and if the wire has already been broken by the rotor wearing, they are no longer good. - Be sure the pads are properly setup (the wear sensors are staggered in relation to the caliper wire hole. Step 19: Install new pads: - Slide the new pads into the caliper. If they do not fit, you will need to press the pistons in further, use your old pads to do this. - Install the retaining spring clip and retaining pin/cotter pin. - Be sure to route the wear sensor wire through the retaining clip and caliper slot - You should have something that looks like this after: Step 20: - Plug the sensor into the plug shown, you should hear a slight "click" Step 20: - Reinstall wheel and torque lugs to 118ft/lbs - REPEAT STEPS 5-19 FOR THE OTHER SIDE - Remove stands - Lower vehicle - Reinstall jack point covers Step 21: Bedding Prep - Turn on car - Take air suspension out of service mode by hold the lever UP again until "regulation" is turned back on. - pump brakes to engage the rear calipers/pads Step 22: Bedding Pads/rotors Bedding is a procedure in which you both remove contaminants from the pad (scorching) as well as developing a transfer layer of pad material to the rotor. To be performed, it will require about 10 stops ranging in speed and pedal pressure. - Start at 30 MPH and brake hard to 5MPH. - Immediately get back up to 30MPH and repeat with similar force. - Continue to do this and increase speed each time - The top speed you will get to is around 65MPH. The goal is to build heat in the pads and rotors so this transfer layer can form. - Once this procedure is complete (the pads may be smoking and/or brake performance has decreased (heat soaked brakes), continue to drive for 20 minutes AVOIDING STOPPING!! - Once the brakes have cooled back to normal temperature you can stop and park. If you do stop, try to keep off the brakes, otherwise you may bed the pad against the rotor in that one area, creating vibration/pulsation later on. The transfer layer should be uniform, hence not stopping. Step 23: ENJOY!