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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    The tank is a fair possibility, happened to me. But quite a coincidence. . Good chance the guy did drain some fluid since he said he topped it off. There is a routine for bleeding the system he may not have done. Symptoms are like yours. I've found you can effectively bleed it by driving till it heats up a bit (1 or 2 miles), carefully open the overflow tank and top it off.. If you do this routine about 6 odd times: it's bled. If you still have a problem look at hoses he might have futzed with. Then look at the tank and cap. Regards, Peter Note: Don't hold me it, but a lot of guys smarter than I (and me) have stopped and studied the ingredients of Porsches over priced coolant..It's all the same ingreiants (or lack of) as the GM developed “DEXcool” available everywhere, many brands...cheap.
  2. pk2
    I have 12's on the back and 8's in the front. From what I understand, over 20 puts undue strain on the bearings. An “S” has 5's all around (I think). As far as I know and for what its worth the widest Porsche ever used recently were 20's on a 944s. Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Has your car gotten soaked recently? I've had my car flake in every way imaginable. The real stumper is a soaked black box under the driver seat. If it's damp down there, thats probably your trouble (been mine 3 out of 8 times) Regards, PK P.S. I f it is, get it out yesterday and dry it out, you may save it (I'm 2 for 3 on that count).
  4. pk2
    I thought someone had found some after market split boot kits for these things. I wwas alweays a little leary about the concept in that they might throw the axles out of balance, but they've been around for a good long time... Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    Have you definably verified its your motor thats at fault (by jumping it directly with a battery or a charger)? Mines out of whack and I know the motor works, the manual switch is good, both relays function in every way. it goes up at 75 an never comes back down (till I trick it). Go figure. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    Thats the spirite... PK
  7. pk2
    Are they supposed to be? I've never had one that was, including current stable, Lexus.& BMW ,& Boxster (I assume). Regards, PK
  8. pk2
    I think theres one up on EbaY for $250, Someone told me that they had to be synced with all the security stuff, not easily interchangable. I have good reason to think not. The tip's and Manual trans are different and not interchangeable. You can turn the mileage forward but not back if you care Regards, Pk
  9. pk2
    I'd have them pull the head off and have a look before you buy a new motor. Sounds to me like a valve problem. That is really the only way air could leak into the exhaust manifold. You could breal the crank in half and if the vavle is seated correctly, no air would get through to exhaust manifold. You might well get away with a new head or maybe just a valve. If you have to ditch the motor, why not shop around for a 3.4L... Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    Thanks ther bought but no installed yet. Regards, PK
  11. pk2
    Dave, A " leak down test is a common course of action. Also, Look in the inside of the oil filler cap for any gray froth. Oil and water in a motor don't neatly separate, it a grayish goop. Don's sweat it, for what you paid you can't go wrong. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    If your horn is indeed stuck on (BTDT), you'd either hear it or it wouldn't be drawing much current if disconnected, just enough for the relays. If they were seized up somehow, they could draw an 'elluva lot of amps, 'nuff to run your battery down. However thats a none starter if the problem was there before you replaced the fuse (no current draw from there) As to you battery and alternator; 4 words my son; Kragen Checker, AutoZone, & Pep-Boys. All will diagnose your charging system in on the spot. They have an idiot proof device that can tell you if you have a battery problem and what it is, or an alternator/charging problem and more...cost, free. Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    You probably hit the nail on the head. An easy thing to try is to pull the relay in and out of it's socket several times to ensure you have good contacts. Also, with the relay out, you can give the relay plugs a lit once over with some fin sand paper or steel wool. Also do the same with the fuse. You can also swap the relays, up for down to determine if it's the relay itself No guaranty this will fix it, may just help with diagnosis. but it's a good thing to check. Mine does the same thing but I have to sort of “reboot” by taking the key out of the ign. And put it back in and twist. Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    Theres a guy on Ebay that sells the drain plug tamper proof torx for about $16. Do a search under ebay motors for " tamper proof drain plug Porsche" or some combination of like words. For filling I used a bolt that fit in the plug, than locked two nuts together on the other end of the bolt. You wind up with a sort of 2 ended bolt. Put one end in the plug and the other in a socket, go to town. Filling is a pain because it is supposed to be 11 mm below the fill hole opening. A cute trick is to jack the opposite side of the car a certain amount so the oil spills out sooner. But I'm not sure what that amount should be. You could probably figure it out on paper with a little geometry 101. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    The ground lead "jump" directly from the baterry ground to the block near the starter (or the starter housing itself) should bypass any and all ground problems, Unless of course there are dirty battery terminals in which case there would be a host of other symtoms when the key is ttwisted. Regards, PK
  16. pk2
    An easy trick to rule out the starter it self is to use a pair of jumper cables and run them directly from the battery (or any charged battery) to the starter. To do this, clip one end to the battery and being careful not to touch the 2 free leads together, run them back into the engine compartment (however you want rout it it) Clamp the black negative to the engine block near the starter, then stab the red, hot cable clamp at the stud on the starter with the big lead going to it. Don't worry about any sparks, can't really hurt anything. If that bumps your starter, its good. Disconnect the hot lead from the battery and leave the black ground attached on both ends. If it starts with the key, you have a bad ground. If not you can rule out the starter and the ground as your problem. See if that help and be in touch, theres more you can do and I'm hungry... Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    Perfect, thanks, easy enough.... Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    Hello, I have wheel spacers 12mm and 8 mm on my car. I don't have the little flat head screws to hold them to the rotors. Any body know the numerical designation for thread and diameter ?and the depth the can protrude into the rotor? Thanks, PK
  19. pk2
    I soldered leads to connectors for a wideband O2 sensor, had some trouble but the engineer who designed it just now assured me the solder was not a problem, he did seem he was touchy about cutting the and splicing leads themselves though. I didn't ask for elaboration as it wasn't an issue in my case. People do solder thermocouple leads, but the recommended method is to use use silver solder and stager the connections. Takes a torch I guess. Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    My dentist says floss every day. Hmm, Mobil 1 & other synthetics do have small amounts of hygroscopic additives, I'll buy...sorta. But I live in an pretty warm and arid climate. I suppose in rainy snowy Stuttgart, there'd be enough of condensation to "soak" the oil in a year. Not sure the same rules apply here though. Question of relative humidity I guess. But. it's been 4 yrs and 4k so I suppose its time. Thanks PK
  21. pk2
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In the early years, there were some issues with the porosity of the blocks and trouble with sleeves do in part to temporary design change and poor metallurgy/processes. Those often could lead to to catastrophic failures. It's long technical story but by early 99 those problems were sorted out. In short though, up and into 99, it's either blown already and been replaced or, it's not likely to (thats what I'm banking on anyway). I agree, German engineering dose seem like a farce at times with massive blunders. Ive experienced them in Mercedes, BMW's VW, etc, i mean endemic catastrophic stuff that should never see the light of day. Were you looking at an early Boxster I'd just throw the potential of a new motor into the equation. With that said though, of the 30 odd cars I've owned, this is my absolute fave. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    I drive my Box quite a bit less than Joee76... but year around. Can you tell me what exactly is breaking down in a synthetic oil when it's just sitting around in a cool & unstressed crankcase and why it wouldn't be breaking down sitting on the shelf in a cool unstressed little jug? Is it all the cold startups? I always thought accumulated heat, dirt and probably squishing was what breaks a synthetic down... not time. I've never seen an expiration date on a can of oil (never really looked in all fairness) Regards, PK.
  23. pk2
    WOW ! Thanks so much for the quick response. That is EXACTLY what I meant. So, I am imagining it or are they the pieces where the rear drains lead to ? Again, thank you for your help. :D Their called gravel guards and I don't think they have anything to do with the drain. There about $20 at Silverstar recycling, Suncoast has'em pretty cheap new...$40 maybe. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I've the same problem and have a partial solution (for my car anyway). Mine won't go down either, swapping relays makes no difference. Just tapping the up switch as it turns out, makes the motor run all the way up and the up 12 v voltage to the motor continues (indefinitely) making it impossible to make it go down. Weirder still, if I pop the caps off the relays and activate them with my finger, they work fine. (and yes the manual switch is fine to). The GOOD NEWS is, if I turn the ignition off and take the key out, then put it back in back in, the constant “up” 12 v is gone and I can lower the spoiler normally with the switch. That might help you on a temp. basis. Be interested what others have to say. Regards, PK BTW: I always pop the relays out in theses situations and give'm a couple of thwacks on the driveway, works about 50% of the time
  25. pk2
    You probably need a your radio code input. Don't bother with a "Porsche" labeled battery. Porsche doesn't make batteries, only very expensive labels for someone else's. I've never bought a factory battery in my life. Box store or (Sears used to be good) have always performed exactly as advertised (I.E. 5 yr battery last just about 5 years), if they don't, you return them and get credit towards a new battery for the unused time. It also seems remarkably weird that your battery would go completely dead sitting in a parking lot for a few. Are you sure you did not have a loose or corroded terminal? Did you have a load test done on it at the parts store. I guess the main point is forget the Porsche battery, it is in no way worth it. And you will probably need a radio code to reactivate it. (don't no for sure but many groan about it. You can beg for it here (I don't know for sure, I don't have a stock radio). Regards, PK
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