Dharn55

For the headlight flash to open a garage door here is what you need. http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/products/ Added this to my car years ago and it is great.

Let me guess. Cylinder #1, inner exhaust valve spring seat. Crack may extend to the spark plug chase. I can post pictures of several other heads cracked in the same spot.

I replaced the front strut mounts on my C4 a couple of years ago when the started clacking. The mounts for a C4 are completely different than for a C2 and they cannot be interchanged. In the case of mine the rubber between the frame of the mount and the center sleeve had deteriorated and given way causing the clacking sound. Look around and you can fine the mounts for under $200@, as I remember if was way under $200. Here is a link to my thread on the problem with some pictures. Take a look. http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/687280-clunking-clacking-on-front-suspension-of-c4-problem-solved.html

I have tremendous respect for Jake Raby and all he has done for Porsche owners. That being said I am not sure about the statement about the repair that he has developed. I can only say that in 2008 when I had my intermix, that was caused by a cracked head, I talked to many including Jake. At that time he and all the others told me that my engine could not really be repaired, the heads could not be fixed, and that the intermix would have ruined the bearings, etc., and that I woud need a new engine. Well I took it apart in my driveway and garage, sent the head to a shop in Costa Mesa that was quite familiar with the head cracks and had repaired many at that time, and they repaired the cradk in my head. I put it back together and It is still running strong 6 years later. So I am not sure what was developed. Just saying.

OK, what the heck, I am going to go for it. Oil filter thread/oil thread! I. Agree that the LN spin on adaptor is the way to go. But if you are running Mobile 1, who cares about the filter :-)

Looks like the electrical connector for a changeover valve. There should be one above/to the left of the alternator. Or if the car ever had PSE then on the right next to the steering pump reservoir.

What's a frunk? :-)

If the pulse sensor for the flywheel is faulty the fuel pump will not continue to run and the engine will not start. This is a pretty common problem. It happened to me once when I had my engine out. The fuel pump will run when you turn the. Key on so this can be deceiving. Check the signal from the sensor.

If you remove the temperature sensor that is located ((wedged ) between the air intake tubes then you have a pretty straight shot at it. A 13mm socket and a 6" extension is really all you need. The swivel is really only needed if you don't remove the sensor.

I have replaced almost all the spring hose clamps on my car with worm drive. however there is a vast quality difference in worm drive hose clamps. I now use ABA hose clamps, you can get them on eBay, Amazon and many other sources. They have rolled edges and the perferations don't go through to the hose. You do need to be careful as to the size used as they don't have the range of the cheap ones you will find at most hardware stores, Home Depot, etc. I learned this the hard way when i tried to tighten down one clamp beyond its range. then i was unable to get a good vacuum with my Uview and evn hold a low vacuum. It was tough to find which clamp was leaking. Finally found the leak with a stethascope. The cheap clamps have sharp edges and tghe perferations go through the clamps and can cut into the hoses.

Of course one of the problems is that people try to use PSS9/10' to adjust the height of their car and they are not really height adjustable. If you look carefully at the installation instructions they are only supposed be be set with a 5mm range, which is really more for balancing and not for height adjustment. But people see how much thread are on the collars and try to lower the cars beyond the proper range ignoring the instructions.

Engine is back in the car but I have a leak in the cooling system, it won't maintain vacuum with my airlift. New hose is supposed to be here today. Hopefully I will start it up this weekend. I have been a little distracted as I became a grandfather yesterday!

This reminds me of a problem I had a few years back. I had the brake pad sensor light on for a couple of years. I checked all the sensors and they were all good. I could not figure out what the problem was. Then one day when I was adjusting the settling son my rear shocks on my PSS10's, which involves taking out the rear top storage liner on a cab, I noticed charring on the label of a wiring harness. I took off the covering in the area of the charring and discovered melted insulation on a ground (brown) wire that was starting to melt the insulation on other wires. I started to trace the wire by unwrapping the harness. Before I knew it I had the rear seats out, the carpet out in the rear seat area and a mass of unwrapped wires from the harness. What a rats nest it looked like. It turned out that the ground wire was for the brake sensors but combined with many other ground wires to one of the grounding points behind the drivers seat. In the case several larger, heavier gauge wires combined into on be smaller gauge wire. I ended up splicing in a wire to replace the ground wire. Luckily none of the other wires that had started to melt was bad. The problem was solved and the brake light was out. No problem has reoccurred. That being said I probably spent 10+ hours on this fix. I hate to think what it would have cost if it had been a dealer fixing the problem. They probably never had take apart the harness, but would have replaced the harness with a factory supplied harness. The harness would have been very expensive and would have taken more that 10 hours to replace. Good luck.

You can tell if you have the single or dual row bearing by looking at the IMS flange. The flange is different for each style of bearing. I just changed out my dual row bearing at 73,000 miles. I had removed the outer seal at 50,000 miles. The bearing seemed to be fine, no play at all. The failure rate for the dual row bearings is much lower. I chose to go with a ceramic bearing and the Direct Oil Feed flange system, both from Tuners Motor Sport. I remember when the LN bearing was "unproven." To me a constant feed of oil to the bearing makes sense.

A few things to point out here. 1. In one of the early pictures you were using the short cam locking tool that only fits into the notch on the exhaust cam. This tool is for the 3.6 VarioCamPlus 3 chain engine. The method for setting the timing on 3.6 cars is very different. For your engine you need to use the long locking tool that fits into the notches on the exhaust cam and the port for the intake cam. 2. Visually setting the cams is hard to do. I am the one with the 12 degree deviation that you mentioned. I used the visual method as when I set the cam timing several years ago I did not have either the long locking tool or the OEM style tool. I used a straight edge to visually align the slots but was still off . 12 degrees at the crank is only 6 degrees at the cam and is really hard to see. 3. There is a notch on the sprocket end of the intake cam. You use these slots to determine if the engine is at TDC for each bank. Of cylinders. For the 1-3 bank the notch will be toward the outside/away from the crank when this bank is at TDC. For the 4-6 bank the notch on its intake will be toward the crank when the. 4-6 side is at TDC. 4. For the simple cam locking tool the proper method to set the cam timing is to put the engine close to TDC, just close enough so the the tool fits into the notches on the exhaust cam and into the port of the intake cam. This may be slightly off TDC. Then loosen the bolts on the sprocket on the exhaust cam and move the engine to TDC. This should not take more than a few degrees of rotation. Don't try to rotate the crank 360 degrees or you will have valves hitting pistons. The tool is not meant to be used to rotate the cam. This tools should be able to be used with the engine in the car which is helpful. 5. If you have OEM style timing tool, which really won't fit with the engine in the car, the method to set the timing is different. You set the engine at TDC, then install the tool. The piece that fits into the notches in the exhaust cam rotates on an arm so if the cam is off it is possible to insert the tool into the notches. Then you loosen the bolts on the sprocket and rotate the arm of the tool until the other end fits into the port of the intake cam. Then you tighten the bolts to lock in the timing. I can post pictures of this if you would like but I don't have them with me now. I just used the OEM style tool to reset the timing of my cams over the weekend. Both side looked to be very close but. 1-3 had been. Showing a12 degree deviation and 4-6 a 3 degree deviation. When I used the tool the deviations were apparent. I don't have the engine back in the car yet as I am doing ceramic IMS bearing, the Direct Oil Feed. IMS flange, the latest RMS seal and a few other items. I hope to finish things up and have the engine back in by the weekend and. I am anxious to see if my deviations are gone.

It costs a lot of money for Porsche to have their name put on the boxes :-))) In all seriousness the packaging is the primary difference. You can often find part from the same manufacturer that Porsche buys from that don't have the Porsche Name on the box and cost significantly less. The markup that Porsche makes on the parts it sells in huge.

The doors require small enclosure sub woofers. The signl sent from the mp is only the low frequencies. So component speakers would be a mistake. I initially installed mids in my doors and the results were not great. I am now running Focal 5WS which are great but no longer made. I think the replacement is a 13Kw. These are 5"-5.25 " and fit the enclosures with minor mods. Some people run 6" but this required more modification.

Unfortunately Peterfrans has it wrong. On a 996 USSpec bank 1 is on the drivers side, at he top of the cylinder head toward the front off the car. It can be a pain to get to with the engine in the car. Probably the best way to get to it is from beneath the car. I can send some pictures if that will help. On early 996's, 5.2 DME there is only one cam position sensor. On the 7.2DME there is one on each cylinder head.

There should be an output from the head unit that tells the amp to turn on. It has been several years since I upgraded my system, and I have the OEM head unit with an upgraded amp. But I do remember using the output to control a power antennae to control the on off of the amp.

Tim I am also curious on the IMS bearing. Did you buy a new OEM bearing or just reuse the old one? I guess I have been lucky with my fix as it is now 4 years and 22,000+ miles and the car is still running strong. My oil pressure is a little low when the car is warmed up. This might be from loose tolorences after running the engine with contaminated oil for an unknown period of time. Who really knows. There is a local guy who did a full rebuild here that found a flaw in the casting of a head. Not sure how he found it though, it was not a crack but a flaw that started leaking. He also bought an inexpensive bearing, made a spacer and used it for the IMS.

Tim Lets here some more details on the rebuild. I guess I got away lucky on mine!

If the price is $1,000 to drop and reinstall the engine then it is not too bad. With a lift, the proper tools and experience you should be able to drop the engine in 4 hours, about the same for the reinstall. Heck I can do mine in the driveway in about 4 hours and it is a C4.

The crack I had in my head, at the inner exhaust valve spring seat on cylinder #1, which is basically the same place on the casting as cylinder #6, is one of the most common. And it will not show up on either a compression test or a leak down test, that s unless it has gone much farther than mine or most of the cracks at that location that I have seen. These cracks don't involve the cylinder compression areas. A cracked sleeve will. The crack I had just let oil and coolant move between the oil system and the cooling system. I had extensive intermix in both directions. When running ther is oil pressure that can force oil through the crack into the cooling system. Then when the engine is hot and turned off the cooling system is pressurized and coolant can be forced through the crack into the oil system. I never had smoke from the exhaust from the intermix. The only way I knew about he problem was when the coolant warning light started flashing. I had the crack fixed in my head and the car has run fine for four years and 23,000 miles. I did pick up a new in the box 1-3 cylinder head a couple of years ago "just in case" that I am now selling if someone needs it. The dealer sells them for $3,200, I am asking $1,800 or best offer. One of these days I am going to post it on the various sites and eBay to sell it. Just haven't got around to listing it a lots of other parts I have accumulated.

Passenger side of the engine, runs from the cylinder head toward the front of the car to the body.

If you remove it to install a new oil ring make sure to mark the pump and head so that it is reinstalled with the same orientation. There is a pump on each side and they are interchangeable but have to be installed properly. Don't ask me how I know this.