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Silver_TT

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Everything posted by Silver_TT

  1. Silver_TT
    More often than not, cold weather shifting effort problems are the result of the wrong gear oil rather than the shifter. We have installed a lot of short shifters, mostly B&M, and as some of the cars are used daily in zero and sub zero ambient temperatures without any shifting issues, while others have had poor cold weather shifting even with the stock shifter when using aftermarket gear oils which were completely remedied by going back to the factory fill, it is difficult to blame the shifters. +1 without question. There have been countless examples time and time again of folks that corrected gearbox issues by either switching from aftermarket back to the OEM fluid, or simply by changing the fluid (OEM fluid changed to fresh OEM fluid). I've talked to people that think that the gear oil doesn't matter or think that it's less important than changing the oil in your engine, for example. A lot of these gearboxes are $10K depending on which Getrag you have and I'm not even talking PDK's (then you're talking more like $20K). Even a repair/refresh from a reputable shop (and I wouldn't even consider anyone but one given how complex these are) can easily run you over $5K. The OEM gearoil looks expensive until you start considering even the starting cost of a repair which would be dropping the gearbox. $$$
  2. Silver_TT
    When's the last time you changed the fluid in the gearbox (with OEM only fluid)?
  3. Silver_TT
    +1 on what Loren said about usually it's a 3rd party/aftermarket add-on (stereo, radar, aftermarket lighting kits, etc).
  4. Silver_TT
    If it were me I would avoid eBay and buy the keyhead from Sunset. Not really that expensive so why take the risk.
  5. Silver_TT
    Agree. When the clutch went out on my previous 996 C4S it basically just all of a sudden happened one day without any kind of warning. I noticed the pedal felt different and the point of engagement was different. It turned out to be an issue with the pressure plate, rest of the clutch was fine but I had about 50K miles on it so I just replaced it while they were in there.... I would not continue to drive it until you have it repaired to eliminate the possibility of doing even more damage. Even if the valet did somehow cause it, I don't think you would be able to prove it so, as already stated, the best thing to do is not to use them anymore when possible. Good luck, hope it's just the hydraulics since that would save you the cost of dropping the transmission/transaxel.
  6. Silver_TT
    well said :)
  7. Silver_TT
    FYI You don't need to take the seat out to do this. I have replaced the seat motor and drive cable and I recall the OEM manual saying to start by taking the seat out but I found after doing it that it was completely unnecessary. I just unscrewed the seat from the car and used a box to tilt the whole seat up while I swapped out the motor and cable. It just took a few minutes -- very, very easy. You need an inverse torx if I recall.... I also would be careful with WD40 under there because there's a lot of dirt and that's a likely culprit to cause your seat motor to start to act up in the first place...... the cable I have found is often the culprit as well. if you do it smart the whole job should only take 10 minutes or so. good luck.
  8. Silver_TT
    In my personal opinion the TT is just simply hard to beat and the Mezger engine is one of the best. And the 997 is a pretty classic look -- much nicer looking than the 996, but cost a lot more too. If you haven't already, I would drive them both ... I think you will find the TT to be more "raw" if that's what you're looking for.
  9. Silver_TT
    wow, that's huge
  10. Silver_TT
    Wow, you are very brave to drive such nice cars in half a foot of snow...........with a summer tire. LOL. :cheers:
  11. Silver_TT
    For 3-4 inches of snow, you definitely need an extra set of tires suited for the elements. On my C4S/TT I went with Blizzaks -- worked like a charm, the only thing that will stop you is if the snow simply gets too high since these cars sit so low/tight to the street. You can pick up an extra set of wheels used for around $1K USD with some luck...if you get real lucky you could find them with snow tires already on them. Driving even an AWD car, in low temps or with precipitation using a pure summer tire is a recipe for disaster. If the cost of a new set of wheels plus tires seems prohibitive.....imagine how cheap it is compared to even a minor car accident.
  12. Silver_TT
    Ya, with all problems you really have to find the real cause so you can eliminate it, just like you said, otherwise throwing parts at it can get expensive quick with the price of OEM parts. Hard to really say much since I don't really know much about your car and you said the engine was rebuilt a few years ago. But that engine is one of the most solid Porsche ever made and has no true flaws to speak of. I find it difficult to comprehend that this is basically the second seemingly similar failure you've had in 3 years with a Mezger engine. Not saying it's never happened before but yours is the first I have ever heard of a Mezger timing chain just snapping -- definitely seems like something else is off but I don't know if the engine was modified or what was done to it during the last rebuild. I'm not surprised the values are damaged since the timing would have been completely off when the chain snapped.
  13. Silver_TT
    By way of clarification, the rattle of the chain at idle is normal and is that way on every 996TT I have ever seen so I don't think is in any way inherent to your problem. It's more coincidence than causation. Yes, if the timing chain snapped (which I have never heard of on a TT before) is it possible it could cause damage to the engine since the timing would be completely off.
  14. Silver_TT
    Maybe not very likely but another possible reason you could connect but the emissions could not would be if you are running an after-market flash or any other kind of "defeat". I experienced this where Durametric/PIWIS said "pass" for all readiness states and everything looked perfect using them to check for emissions..... but the state's 3rd party software was smart enough to know that the flash wasn't stock and gave an error similar to what you are seeing.
  15. Silver_TT
    The X50's can be fairly hard to come by, especially if you have any criteria narrowing your car search such as wanting a specific body color, etc...... when I purchased my TT I looked for a clean X50 for quite some time. They are out there, but not a ton of them.
  16. Silver_TT
    I had the same issue on my 4S. Very annoying since manually unlocking would sometimes set off the alarm. I would try simply replacing the battery in the key head first, it only costs $1 or so. If that doesn't work then you will probably need to replace the keyhead which is about $200 total including the part and labor (for the dealer to program in the code). If you need the keyhead you can order that from Sunset and the dealer should only charge 1/2 hour labor to code it to your car's ECU.
  17. Silver_TT
    You'll rarely hear him say it and will never see him advertise, but "JFP in PA" has a shop in your state and it may be worth sending him a PM to see if he can help you. He's one of the most knowledgeable folks in the country when it comes to these cars. If your friend decides to do the swap, I would be sure to get someone that knows what they are doing in terms of helping you source a good used engine and also doing the install. Sorry to hear it but I wish you the very best of luck.
  18. Silver_TT
    Great reference post. Thanks again for sharing that!
  19. Silver_TT
    Interesting, thanks for pointing that out, I had never considered this. Thanks
  20. Silver_TT
    All very good points. While not exactly a belt and suspenders approach, my understanding is that the splash lubrication option actually works quite well. JFP, is this still the conventional wisdom ? Probably not nearly as many folks taking this approach but have you heard of any problems using that solution? Also curious if you had more information on the single row bearing being more prone to track failure. If you already have a problem, driving it hard could exacerbate the issue, but is there anything specific about tracking driving which causes the failure?
  21. Silver_TT
    Unfortunately there aren't any warning signs or patterns. The only warning sign would be if you see ferrous metal in the oil (but by that point it may be too late anyway). Two only two courses of action are really to go with the LN product, which works but is expensive, or to stick with the OEM bearing knowing that you are potentially at some level of risk.
  22. Silver_TT
    Welcome to RennTech. If I can second what a very knowledgeable poster is already saying, don't drive yourself insane trying to collect stats or read sites until you are blue in the face. The most reliable statistics are probably derived from the class action suit but it's really hard to generalize it down to one single % or whatnot. There's a lot of nonsense written out there ranging from one end of the spectrum (the world will end tomorrow) to the other (IMS is a lie, it's all a marketing scare). Is it a very serious design flaw? Yes. Are you sitting on a ticking time bomb that's about to blow up in your face at any second? Probably not. But it's like investing or anything else in life -- you have to consider how much risk you want to take and suck it up if you wind up on the losing end because you decided to roll the dice. The retrofit is very expensive, in my opinion, I agree with you -- but it does work. Many folks will drive their Porsche and never know what an "IMS" is -- especially those that don't read Internet posts. But there is a reason Porsche moved away from the design. My background is in engineering and when I first realized how the IMS design was constructed, I couldn't believe they would take something like that to production on a high-end sports car. I'm still confused by it. Like JFP said though, they have since moved away from it ......... so enjoy your car, but in the long run you should decide how you want to address it.
  23. Silver_TT
    What happened to the 996TT's engine? Is it beyond repair? I don't have any direct experience with a 997TT swap but in theory the engine is very similar (they are both Mezgers). However, the similarities may end there. I think you're going to run into trouble getting everything to fit right just like it did with the 996TT's lump because a number of the components on the 997TT are different. Also not sure the ECU is going to like it. Again, don't have direct experience with the swap but I'm pretty sure they aren't directly interchangeable and will require some problem solving so it's probably better not to attempt it unless you're in it for the long haul, come rain or sunshine, and are willing to throw some money at it.
  24. Silver_TT
    Welcome to RennTech! I don't believe there is any official list of differences... but there are quite a few differences, some more subtle than others. USA and RoW are much more different than the virtually identical appearance they have at the surface. I think the question is which of those differences would be an impediment to you legally registering your vehicle in Norway. You probably need to check with your local authorities to see what differences potentially conflict with their laws/standards. Here in the USA, for example, they can be extremely strict on items such as emissions and DME checksums. I know for a fact that if it were the other way around, a RoW car imported to USA, that modifications would be needed to comply -- It can be quite a headache. Unfortunately I don't have any direct experience with a USA car imported to RoW but have similarly considered it in the past (import to Germany) and would love to hear your feedback and how it works out for you in Norway.
  25. Silver_TT
    No idea what the purpose could have possibly been but I've seen folks do all sorts of weird things. If it were my car I would return it to the manufacturer's spec. Cooling is extremely important on these cars (and cars in general). As far as the missing ram air duct, the plastic clips may have broken off and the previous owner just left it off. I would also replace that as well as the engine compartment can get quite hot.
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