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bar10dah

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Everything posted by bar10dah

  1. Are you asking where the washer pump is located? It's connected to the washer fluid reservoir. Disconnect/remove it to access the pump.
  2. Thanks Maurice! I was so sure it was a DIY or TSB, I never considered doing a search in the threads. <doh!> With the link you posted, I was able to adjust my passenger side window downwards. Now, when I close my door, I don't hear that thud when the window smacks into the convertible top's frame. :)
  3. I was certain I saw info for adjusting the way the window sits in the door. And, I thought it was on this site. However, I've been through the DIYs and the TSBs and didn't come across it. Did I just overlook it?
  4. The Stabilus struts can be found on pelicanparts.com for $22.75. When my front lid was getting too weak to trust with my head under the hood, I started shopping around for replacement struts. I was being cheap and bought the Tuff Support brand for $14.25 at first. Bad move. After only about 10 weeks and a dozen or so openings/closings, the plastic ends broke on one and was cracked on the other. Returned to Pelican and bought the Stabilus versions. Much happier.
  5. Does the idle appear to slowly climb to 1,000, then drop off back down to 800, just to start it's slow climb back up again?
  6. Mike Focke has proven himself, over and over again, to be a great source of Boxster information. And even though he no longer owns one, we're all very greatful that he's kept his 'collection of Boxster information' on his webpage. Outstanding reference material. But, Mike isn't the only one that knows this car very well! There are several members on the multiple Porsche and/or Boxster forums out there that are great sources for info. As you've probably already learned by reading up on the threads on this forum, this site is full of experts. They're happy to share their experience/knowledge with you. However, I must caution, prior to asking a question, please at least try to do a search for the information. The search function on this forum in particular is very easy to use. Same for many other sites. Try to search for your answers first, as the question may be new to you, but chances are the topic has been covered hundreds of times before. And, especially the regulars, get tired of seeing (and answering) the same questions over and over again. Hopefully all goes well with your purchase, and after the holiday, we can call you a Boxster owner! :) Welcome to the club.
  7. Absolutely! Read up on the Boxster on this forum. Lots of great information that'll help you understand the car better. Also a great resource is Mike Focke's webpage. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages As you've already found out, it's quite a fun car to drive. Ownership, just like with any other car, comes with a bit of quirks. But, overall a very nice car to have for a very little amount of money (relatively). Good luck to you. Welcome to this forum, and hopefully, welcome to the Boxster world.
  8. Range 1, idle state, looks pretty good. Range 2 numbers are fairly good too. Range two, at speed, is slightly rich, so the DME is compensating by leaning the mixture. But only slightly. In fact, I can't find the chart now, but your Range 2 may be well within tolerances. Ideally, Range 1 should be 0.0 and Range 2 should be 1.0.
  9. Yes, take the liner out. It will make it easier. There's really no way to disconnect the other end, as there's a valve on the other end. And, from what I've read, you can blow this line out either way, from the front or the back. However, I would blow it from the EVAP canister side. It's my opinion it's better to blow out in the direction the air would be flowing. And, if you do dislodge anything, it'll blow into the intake system and be burned during combustion. If you blow from the engine side, if there was a blockage, you'd just be blowing it back into the EVAP canister and it might block the line again.
  10. The fan noise you heard was probably the engine compartment fan. It's in the same general vicinity as the SAI. To my understanding from observing operation, and reading up in the Bentley repair manual, the SAI only comes on during a cold start.
  11. Refilled with Ate Blue, sucked the fluid out (skimming the top), with a medicine syringe, down to below the MIN line. Refilled with Napa DOT 4 and skimmed the fluid again. Refilled with Napa again, all the way to the top, hoping to get the oil to float to the filler neck so I can get at it better. I'll go back out soon and see how it looks. But at this time, there's no sheen on the top. So I'm guessing no oil? Also, from the photos, the very top layer (1/8"?) is darker than the rest. I'm guessing that's the CHF202. But, looking in the bottle, there's no sheen. UPDATE: Didn't want to chance it, so pulled the reservoir out. Cleaning it up now and will reinstall soon. If the fluid level didn't fall below the rubber grommets on the master cylinder, I should be fine without having to bleed?
  12. Nope, didn't use the brakes or flush yet. Just pulled about half the fluid out of the reservoir. From what I've been reading online, the power steering fluid is lighter than the brake fluid, so it should be sitting on top, and hasn't mixed. The problem is, with that small opening in the reservoir, how can I adequately pull out all the contaminated fluid? I'll refill and suction out the fluid a couple more times, but not sure it'll be enough to pull that top layer off. However, if that top layer does indeed always remain on top, then I shouldn't ever have the possibly contaminated fluid enter the brake system as I never run my fluid so low that the top layer gets pushed into the brake lines. At this point, should I still go ahead and do the flush? Or just exchanging the fluid in my reservoir should be adequate?
  13. Done something stupid tonight... I replaced my brake fluid in the fall, but didn't do the clutch. I wasn't aware of how to do it back then. But, following the DIY threads here, I decided to tackle the clutch today. Holy begeezus that's a tight fit! I was able to contort my arm enough to get the rubber hose on the valve and open it up with a wrench. All went well and as I went to refill the reservoir, I accidentally grabbed my can of CHF202 and poured approximately 1/2 to 1 ounce in the reservoir until I finally noticed the can didn't look right. The CHF202 and ATE Blue are in similar shape/size cans and were sitting right next to each other on my shelf. I grabbed the wrong freakin' can... So, took a medicine syringe and sucked out as much of the fluid I could from the reservoir. The fill indicator says it was just below MIN so I didn't empty all the fluid out to avoid getting air in the system. Am I safe? Or is the mixing so bad that I need to do a complete brake fluid flush? If the specific gravity of Pentosin is lighter than the Ate, then I think I've got it all up. If the Pentosin is heavy, then it probably settled in the bottom of the reservoir. :( What do you guys think?
  14. LOL, thanks Logray. You're probably right. I've been beating myself up over this problem for five months. It's hard to just stop worrying about it. I'll just drive it for a while and stop hooking the Durametric up to it every other day. :)
  15. See, we said it was highly unlikely all six couldn't be stripped at the same time! :) I can't remember which tape I used up front, but I'm guessing it was the thin doublesided stuff, not the padded doublesided stuff. Another person said he used the weatherstrip goo adhesive with much success. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/30464-rag-top-replacement.html#post260874
  16. I've got about 300 miles since replacing the tank vent valve, which I think was the source of the intake air leaks that was causing my CEL codes. I guess I'll just keep driving it and see how it does. Oh, thanks for the explanation. Nope, stock air filter element in the stock airbox. So, *ambient* air intake? ;)
  17. Warm air intake? I have the stock intake system. Well, desnorkled. So given your post, I may still have a leak somewhere... :(
  18. Wishing I bought the Litronics 9 years ago. 8 years before I bought my Boxster... :(
  19. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33364-child-seat-airbag-deactivation-bar/
  20. Still no CEL. But my fuel trims are a bit high. Especially the long term trims. They used to be around 1.0. But now... I'm guessing the adaptation for the fuel trims don't happen very fast. How quickly should they come down? I've noticed a steady decrease in the short term trims the more I drive. I'm wondering if I should just disconnect the battery to reset the DME and see what happens.
  21. JFP, used CHF 202 in my '99 Box. I read it was compatible where CHF 11S was recommened. Not true? You'd recommend going back to 11S?
  22. Wow, $1,260 is an awful big bill to swallow! Even TDY, I think I would have bought the parts express mail from Pelican or Sunset and then bought the tools I'd need. ;) But sometimes, it's just worth the hassle, especially since you're TDY, to have to worry about it, and just pay the dealer to do the job.
  23. Nope, I was saddened to find this out myself. Costed me $50 at the dealer for them to activate it. I've read in another thread, or another forum, that Porsche will sometimes do it for free, to activate it. But no one has ever said if Porsche will deactivate it for free.
  24. Is your Durametric version 6.2.0.0.? If so, update to the most current version. I too was getting codes that were either transposed or just wrong altogether. The next version fixed this. If you have the latest version, report the error to Durametric and they'll get it fixed for the following version.
  25. Also, trade bolts with the person you're selling your bar to. The bolts for the bar is just a bit longer. That's what we did when I bought the bar off another person. They sent me the bar and longer bolts and I sent them my shorter bolts. The bolts crossed each other in the mail.
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