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987_RDC

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Everything posted by 987_RDC

  1. You can manually open and close it if you follow the emergency procedure in manual. Still will need PT2, durametric and PIWIS to execute calibration. After fixing problem of course. (otherwise waste of time)
  2. Sounds like one of the micro switches missed execution. Most likely the one related to the "bow" you created. Can you shoot pics? Correct replacement and then calibration execution on PIWIS or durametric should resolve.
  3. Bought them from another Carrera Cab owner who had other parts of rear drive broken. Don't try to MIG weld the piece but not sure if TIG might work.
  4. The casing wasn't damaged and just replaced the pieces inside.
  5. Don't weld it with MIG, it will disintegrate. Ask me how I know. I solved same problem and documented here: (oh btw I did use frisbee's help) http://www.renntech....op-calibration/ Maybe you can TIG the "foot" back on.
  6. Turns out that switch does work but car has to be running. Checked E1 fuse and is fine. Seems the remote that came with the car doesn't work. Took apart and resoldered too. Resoldered connections on alarm box too, didn't make any improvement.
  7. I've searched and tried many of the suggested fixes but still have the folowing issue. I checked the B row fuse for locking and also the 15A external fuse under the drivers seat on alarm module. *EDIT* I thought the door switch was root cause of my key fob not working. Update is the door switch does work when car is running (sorry thought ignition was enough) Still not sure why fob not working for unlock. I hate always settting off the alarm.
  8. OEM-99656126501 Replace it soon since will cause canvas to catch and then possibly snap your latch drive inside the clamshell unit.
  9. Got a part from another kind member for few dollars. Popped it back in, executed calibration. SUCCESS! Top works perfect now, awesome. Parts to fix: New latch cover Safety clips Hardware for clamshell Replaced latch slider Refilled fluid Replaced latch protection flap I believe the rear latch protection flap broke then the previous owner got the canvas caught and busted that foot off. From there the top stopped working. Not sure how they also busted the latch cover...
  10. I assume you are referring to the 987 and 997 engines, how do you test for that? Leak down? What other issues are there to look for?
  11. My top is in that current state also. Sounds like you need someone to run a calibration sequence. After 1000 executions the system flips calibration needed.
  12. Can someone let me know what part number ABS module should be swapped in if using an updated 987.1 engine? Seems there are so many versions. Where can I find the plugs to adapt the instrument cluster? (From 99) What about eGas harness?
  13. What is the correct pressure for low and high side for 1999 Carrera?
  14. How do the 986 folks get around these issues? Seen quite a few threads with them running 987.1 engines....
  15. Searched around but most results were using a 996 engine going into a Boxster. Are there any limitation to using a newer non-DFI 987.1 engine which is 3.4L into a 996? Is there an issue with Variocam Plus that could be resolved with ECU flash? (assume need to run a wire)
  16. I am also missing just a lid on one of my visors. Are the lighted and unlighted lids the same?
  17. Perhaps the flap that actuates inside the intake plenum is not functioning. It it run by vacuum and solenoid and locate inside the intake tube behind the throttle body. (makes it very hard to access with engine installed....
  18. I had my top in service position and already had the back carpet out, thus I was able to get to all the screws in the back area also. You might need to pop the tension straps and remove rear carpet to get to the back parts. I highly recommend E6000 glue and metal washer to re-create the bolt hole to hold the top properly.
  19. BTW fixed a similar "rise" in my rear seat area recently. Drop the back seats and remove the two phillips screws. I bet the tab on the rear cover under the carpet area has broken off. That causes the rear piece to flex up. I removed all the screws from the piece and took it out. Used e6000 glue and glued a washer to the broken plastic (and remaining piece I found). Allowed the back to be bolted in nice and flush.
  20. Thanks for the tip. I had originally verified the microswitch functionality with manually pressing and then moved on. Your post had me remove the carpet behind the rear seats so I could clearly see the final latch. It didn't move as expected. Seems the metal "foot" from the final latch has broken off. This slider is inside the clamshell drive and engages with the black metal piece after the foot piece starts the sliding motion. Thus the back latch never completes. Borrowed img from another member's rear drive dis assembly: (part circled in red) My piece with the "foot" snapped off that begins the last latch travel, the black piece engages with the slide drive after foot catches. Hoping I can get help from friendly fellow Cabriolet owner to get a replacement part.... I also took apart the roof latch and adjusted the microswitch which detects touching the roof to be more sensitive, then adjusted the rear tension cables such that they are not "flopping" the roof down onto the frame but barely allowing the microswitch to be triggered. Anyway. Hoping this thread can be a one-stop-shop for future Cabriolet owners facing the various issues causing issues. (beyond basic fluid replacement)
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