swpender

Will do and report back. Thank you.

Yes. There is a very brief but noticeable drop in power, like a rough idle, just b4 check engine light goes on. Seems to resume normal operation thereafter but light remains.

2011 CTT is 500 miles into replaced cam adjuster fastening screw per recall and getting this and same for Bank 1, which is code P0421: P0431 CODE DEFINITION: • Catalyst 1 Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2 Any thoughts?

Richard, My problems were resolved by changing out all coils and plugs. I would highly recommend replacing the full line-up. Steve

I changed out all of mine as well. When I dropped my '11 Turbo off at my garage, the service manager said that were going to send a camera into the cylinders after pulling the plugs. My explanation of the fault codes he told me the camera is to check for scoring. He's told 2 other '11 turbo owners in the last month that they need an engine replacement. Porsche isn't helping out either. I was quite happy to hear that my cylinders were unscored.

Loren posted that he would also check the battery and ground wire for corrosion. I hope he is right, but just in case, what did the coil and plug replacement set you back?

My 2011 Turbo has 80k now and the triple fault started a year and 10k miles ago, when it was still under CPO warranty. I guess the dealer service departments are incentivized to do the most expensive fix, so when i took it in, they replaced the coils on misfiring cylinders. Now that the warranty is expired, i sure hope you are right on the battery issue since it's acting up again.

Richard, there is no requirement to take the car to dealer for scheduled maintenance. I'm on my 3rd Cayenne and never use dealer for oil changes. Why do you state that the warranty is for 2 years? Porsche CPO is 100,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first. If your warranty is 2 years, i don't think it's issued by Porsche.

I'd check the driveshaft bearings while your at it. Almost like clockwork, My '08 driveshaft bearings went bad at 100,001. My wife's 06 went at 100,076. Started as a grind type sound and turned into whole car shudders. Good news is that aftermarket replacements are readily available and my son has put 45,000 on the 06 and I put 30k on mine before I sold it, both replacements work like a charm.

If the icon is the one i'm thinking of, it means that the 'display traffic messages' is off because 'dynamic rerouting' is enabled.

Definitely swap the coolant pipes to the updated metal ones. While you are at it, the Sept. 2010 TSB provides a 4 year 50k warranty on replacement coils with part numbers 948 602 104 07. 955 602 101 04, and all later part numbers. My '06 and '08 S's each greatly benefited from a switch to Total synthetic motor oil, which generally corrected the 0021 fault code that appears in many posts in this forum. Good luck with your new car. Enjoy.

Cardan shaft replaced. Didnt take long to go from vibration to the sound of live fire. I wasn't prepared to hear that sound from that car. Luckily made it to SpeedSport Tuning in Danbury CT and repaied overnight. The car drives much better, especially in Sport mode, which leads me to think the shaft joint deterioration affects performance over time, but slowly enough that its not so obvious. Boiling a frog analogy. early warning would be nice.

Do you feel it under the armrest? I've just started to feel same on accel under mine. Had a valve issue but didn't swap out o2 sensor and the vibration seems to have started at the America time. At the same time.

Did you feel the shaking in the armrest area or from engine compartment?

There is a TSB 0701 for your car. It was issued on 10-29-07. The repair is to replace the thermostat housing and thermostat. Thermostat Housing is 948 106 060 05 Thermostat is 948 106 125 01 There is a note to always check the repair history to see if the housing has already been replaced because any fault code p2181 stored after 10/07 may have already had the thermostat housing replaced. I had to replace and if my memory is correct,the new housing has a green mark, whereas the defective one has yellow. I also replaced the water pump because it began to leak as a result of the crappy thermostat.

I have 60k on Hawk Performance HPS Ceramic Brake Pad HB501F.625/502F.606 and 996GT3 rotors that replaced the originals at 50k. I am putting a new set of pads on next week. They have been great. no dust, no squeaks and last a lot longer than any pad I've tried on any car. Swapped them onto my wife's '06 Titanium too. Her wheels are gray and the dust from the OEM pads was unbearable and the problem disappeared.

Did this get an answer?

No offense, but this has nothing to do with Transmission or differential fluids.....it also sounds like you were sold a bill of goods....you do realize switching from 0w-40, to 5w-40 doesn't change the warm temperature viscosity.....also i'm not sure how a dealership can pull an "unkown" code.... As for M1 0w-40....i don't necesarily buy the "declined quality".....i have performed oil samples for years now on the same M1 fluid, and the VOA have always showed the same specs.....M1 0w-40 is actually very high in detergents as well. I have always run 0w-40 in not just the porsche, but my race motors as well.... Clark- Here is how a dealer can pull an unknown code Glad you are an oil/fluid expert and happy with M1. The switch worked for me and maybe someone else will benefit from the info. You are awesome.

My 08 S started throwing an unknown code that neither Danbury Porsche nor an Oxford CT auth mechanic could solve. Both of their diagnoses included costly and attempted cam sensor replacements and when the latter recommended that I remove the engine to replace an inner engine filter for +/- $5000, I knew it was time to find another mechanic. I took the car into SpeedSport Tuning in danbury. They recommended that I switch the oil to Total 5W40 E9000. Neither of my previous garages would even discuss another oil, even at my initiation. Not only did they adamantly oppose any other motor oil, they wouldn't allow mw to change the tranny or diff fluid earlier than recommended either. The switch to Total caused an immediate improvement to both performance and economy. They recommended an additional change after 2k and now I'm changing the oil every 6k. The early tranny and diff change was also a good idea. I highly recommend both. I'm almost at the 100k mark and can honestly say that the car has never run better. I was speaking with a knowledgeable euro mech afterwards and after several beverages of our choice the subject of synthetic oil came up. Whether his story is true or a conspiracy theory, it's worth noting here. He told me that all new Porsche are shipped with Total synthetics and that the sticker and continued Mobil recommendation is based on a pre-existing endorsement contract. He went on to state that the quality of MobilOne in particular has declined over the years. I'm just passing the info along. The switch worked miracles for me and I wish I had done it before the costly and ineffective repairs.

Loren, Thank you for the documentation. I'm guessing the price goes up as the fault causes are eliminated, starting at faulty Solenoid

Thank you for the documentation.

Thanks. Sounds like a plan. How can one tell if a PIWIS is real or not I got this response from the OBD2 reader I use from Lemur BlueDriver: Hi Steve. Trouble code P000A is "Intake (A) Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 1" Probable Causes: 1. Sensor or solenoid faulty 2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded 3. Wire harness - Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage 4. Update control unit software - Check for the latest control unit update 5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty

Thanks. The code was initially from a generic, but garage used PIWIS tester. States P000A for Bank 1 inlet camshaft control slow signal implausible.

I cant find mention of the P 000A code mentioned in the OBD II codes or in the forums, so if anyone can direct me, much appreciated. 2008 Cayenne S I've been unable to shake this code, even after both cam shaft arms and sensors replaced. The shop tells me that the culprit is most likely sludge build up caused by derelict oil change routine, and the best solution is a series of 3000 mile oil changes to reduce the build up. Apparently, the death star appears if this doesnt fix and I'm pulling the engine to access an internal screen which serves as another filter, deep in the engine. Needless to say, the direction of the conversation gives me pause on several levels. 1- Oil changes on schedule 2- Why would the cam arm fault remain on after replacement and reset 3- Mechanic says 'DO NOT USE ANY OIL SYSTEM CLEANING ADDITIVES" 4- Is there really a screen deep in the bowels of the engine that can foul? If anyone has had or heard of this issue, I would appreciate some advice. Thanks, Steve