Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hurdigurdiman

  1. Hi did you ever solve the idle and cut out problem on your car? I have the same on my 1999 C2 manual 996. If so, what was the problem? thanks in advance Mike@ex-lancs.com

  2. So Dwight, did you actually find the problem why the idle was surging at stop? Mine is the same year and model Carrera and acting up just the same as yours .
  3. The AOS has a rubber diaphragm inside and a rubber boot on the outside bottom part, which attaches to the crank case. To remove and replace this bottom accordion rubber boot, best to change the AOS at the same time. The boot is already attached to the bottom of it which drops over the securing bracket with a quick release bottom clip. . If you want to attempt to change it alone, it's a real PITA as you will be working one handed on your back. No need to remove the wheel. Jack the back up, slide in head first on your back till your head is level with back wheel and you will see the boot high up under the car. I advice you to put a coating of oil inside both ends of the new boot before attempting to put it in place. I managed to get a quick release metal clip on the bottom BUT only a Zip tie to the top. Got my boot cheap from Pelican along with 2 quick release type clips but could only get the bottom one on. That's why I used the zip tie on the top which I put loosely around the boot before putting the boot in place. Then pull hard on the top zip tie. Let me tell you, only a magician could get both quick release clips in place. Move the electric plug to the right for more room for your one hand.
  4. JayUSA123.. I have the same problem and no way can I find the answer. I want to know whyI can blow through the vent line both way passed the blue valve. I can. So is my blue valve bad or good? Did you ever solve your problem? Thanks in advance. Mike
  5. the 466 code is gone but I have 2 more up or pending p1124 and p1126. I would really like to find if my blue valve is at fault but no one wants to help me on this subject. Does anyone read these posting. Its been up for a month. ? I have seen it for sale at almost $200 but I need to know if mine if bad first. Obviously the seller will not help me. They only want to sell the thing.
  6. TO REBORN996 .... First and foremost be very careful not to snap the white plastic connector on the 10-0-clock position of smaller white circle. On mine which is a 99 996 Carrera at the 10-0-clock position you see the black tube leaving the small white round thing? Feel along that line under the lip towards the steering wheel. About 2 or 3 inch in you should feel something like an electric plug . Pull that towards you so you can see it. Go gentle or you will snap the white connector on the side of the white circle. You are now looking at the tank pressure sensor. A single phillips head screw holds the sensor. Undo that and pull the sensor which has a rubber grommet around it, free from its holder and exchange. Good luck.
  7. LOREN.. I have the same 99 996 as yours. I am wondering should I be able to blow each way through the line and blue valve in your photo? It is called the Vacuum Control Valve #9 in the diagram above. I am getting po446. When the line is disconnected top and bottom and taken from the canister. I can blow each way through the line passed the blue vacuum control valve. No electrics attached to the line. Should I be able to do this? I expected it to be like a 'one way' valve but mine is not. That fact may be why I get the 446 codde The next time you are in there, could youy please blow through the line for me and let me know the outcome. Thanks in advance.
  8. There is a 'shut off' valve with electric plug on it, top front of charcoal canister which I changed along with the pink valve on top of canister (maybe called purge or vent valve) a double type valve about 3 months ago. CEL still comes on. That's why I am really interested in this blue thing on the side of the canister. It does NOT have an electric plug to it. I disconnected the pipe top from the pink vent thing and the bottom with the blue plastic type round valve set in the middle of this length. I held the pipe in my hands and can blow each way past this valve with ease. I would have thought I could only blow one way as a kind of a one way valve thing but NO. Is the thing GOOD or BAD? Whats this for?. Why is it there?. What is the name of the thing?. I seem to remember someone said it is a 'check valve' but it doesn't seem to check anything only my patience as far as I can tell. I put the part # on google NOTHING. Oh yeh some bloody oil well in Texas somewhere came up. Very helpful lol.
  9. I really need to know the answer to my first message as I am in the middle of smoke machining the evap system. The question being. I can blow air and smoke BOTH ways passed this blue valve. I need to know if this blue thing is good or bad as I think I should only be able to blow ONE WAY not both ways along the pipe. Otherwise why is it there in the first place. What is it supposed to do? THERE IS NO ELECTRICAL CONNECTION TO THIS PART. HOPEFULLY SOMEONE FROM PELICAN PARTS CAN HELP ME AS I AM USING ONE OF THEIR PHOTOS TOP DISPLAY THE PART (BLUE VALVE)
  10. you might laugh but fish tank air line is the exact fit. It's soft enough the bend around places and cut to length longer for easier movement. It tightly goes over the existing brittle parts of the evap system behind the alternator. Some say that gas fumes may rot the fish tank line but it is real hardy stuff.
  11. that's good to know JFP in PA. Thanks so much. I have an indi who will clear my po466 with his tool lol. I have done lots of testing and the likes. Not found any vac leaks but still working on them with a hand held vac pump.
  12. what happens if you clear the code by disconnecting the battery for 15 mins or so. Does that permanently delete the code or will the code pop up again. Does all codes have to be deleted by a durametric type device? My small durametric will not allow me to clear codes. I have a cheap generic one. So to remove the CEL I use the battery method. After another 30 miles, up the samwe code comes again. I ask myself" Did I actually cure the fault and is that the old code popping up the CEL from memory. Can anyone answer me that question thanks.
  13. I have a code po446 and CEL up right now. 446 indicates a vent circuit malfunction on the EVAP system. I am trying desperately to track the fault. In the photo you see the black charcoal canister with a green arrow pointing to some sort of blue valve. Its that valve I am interested in. I have disconnected the top and bottom purple and red arrows and hold the line (including the blue thing) in my hand. I am able to blow each way through this line. That confuses me as I wonder now why it is in the line in the first place if I can blow each way. No electrical connection to the blue thing. I would have thought I could only blow one way. Does anyone know what its called and what its there for? Is it a good one or a bad one. I hope its a bad one and then my problems will be solved.
  14. Loren opr other readers, I am testing an electric change over valve which has two small inlet pipes situated at the top of the alternator front. One of the inlet pipes sticks out from the center and the other from the side Of the device. With no volts to the device I use fish tank tube attached to the side inlet and blow smoke which comes out around the round cap but does not from the other inlet/outlet pipe. When attached to the center and no volts I cannot blow through it. With volts attached I hear a click and the smoke goes from either inlet to outlet. I think the valve is working correctly but am worried about the smoke coming from around the cap. Is air supposed to come out around there? If not then I need a new valve. Thanks in advance.
  15. OK The problem was solved in 10 minutes. Now the gas door, inside lights and kerb door lights are all working as they should thanks to information gained from Richard Hamilton. Apparently the Alarm Modual which is located under the drivers seat had slipped back into 'transit mode'. This fault can be rectified by a Porsche tester pt2 or PIWIS tester inside the 'special menu' portion of the diagnosis. I had been trying to solve it on my own for almost 18 months. I believe that not a lot of people know this fix. Well now some more people do. One of those people is myself Thanks to Richard and Loren and others.
  16. This afternoon I took the car to AutoHouse Porsche to have a diagnostics run in special mode from their PIWIS tester or P2T or what ever they use. I was adviced by Richard Hamilton and Loren and RFM from Renntech that the Alarm Modual had maybe slipped back to 'Transport/handover mode and thats what was causing my inside lights and door light , plus gas door not to be working as they should be. BINGO and CORRECT... all is working just fine now at a total cost of $75.. what a day thanks to all who contributed to my dilema over the past 18 months. Something so bloody simple which I never knew about until coming on these pages and being adviced from the elite of the elite Porsche owners. Thanks again guys very very muchly.
  17. I have the same problem PLUS kerb lights and gas door locking also not working. Doesnt even come on if I put the key in ignition. On Richard Hamiltons advice, am taking mine in for the PST 2 test to Porsche Garage in Lancaster PA USA next week. Trust a good Brit to solve the problem. It worked for Wayne Dempsey's car. Hope it works for me. Been trying to resolve this for 18 months now and same as you 'will not give up'. Did the 'test' solve your problem? Mike
  18. Thats great news Wayne and Richard as I am taking my 99 C2 Cab into Porsche in a weeks time to check out 'Sports car handover' routine. No way can I get inside lights, (but can manually).. Door kerb lights and Gas door locking to function. Richard (YOO DA MAN) if this solves the problem.
  19. OK Guys I was quoted approx $100 to have the control tested via their PST2/PIWIS tester to have the fualt pin pointed/and/or returned from 'Sports Car Handover' routine in the 'special functions menu'. I have to have the car at their place a week from today and will let you know the outcome. Thanks again to all posters.
  20. A few questions for any of you good fellows out there with regards to the clicking sounds coming from the alarm control unit under the drivers seat. Could one of you who's inside lights are working ok when you unlock the car via the key or remote, help me here please. Mine are not working via the key or remote but I can put them on manually from the inside light cluster. When I kneel next to the lower part of the door ( inside a very quiet garage) and unlock the car, I hear 2 clicks from the control unit after the louder click of the barrel moving . When I lock the car the same way, I hear 3 clicks after the barrel sound. By my only hearing 2 clicks after the barrel moving on unlocking the car, it makes me think that I should have a third click which maybe tells the alarm controller to make the inside lights ready to come on as I open the door. I do not hear the third click as I unlock the car. Would someone be so kind as to kneel next to their car and unlock and lock the car and listen and count the clicks coming from the alarm controller after the barrel moves. I am trying to find out if the controller is at fault and ready for a replacement. I think that may be the case as every other part of the door function ie:- windows and locks are working properly suggesting that all 7 micro switches inside the door are ok. I really do hope that one of you good guys can assist me with this problem Thanks in advance.. Mike
  21. I have the 99 C2 Cab. Everything works fine on the car except the inside lights, door lights and gas door lock are not working. Checked all fuses and bulbs and all are ok. I can put the inside lights on manually but not the door lights. As I unlock with the key or remote the inside light should come on and the gas door should unlock. As I open any of the two doors that door kerb light should come on. As I turn on the ignition, the inside lights should dim and go out. The window drops as I open the unlocked door and returns as it should do when its closed from either inside or outside of the car. The alarm works good. No beeping when the remote is pushed one time. Horn beeps one time when I push the remote two times. (I think that is normal). Both of the map lights work manually. I would like to know does anyone have any idea where to look for a DIY fix of the problem. BTW its been like this since I bought the car some 18 months ago. I have read in my 996 essential companion book that the inside lights are controlled from the alarm system which appears to be working correctly. Apart from having a diagnostic test done on the computer under the drivers seat at a Porche place, would anyone know another way to DIY the problem. Also has anyone had a diagnostic test done on their vehicle and what was the cost. Thanks in advance. Mike
  22. there are 7 microswitches in each door. 2 for the door handle alone. Check this link out http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/217-door-microswitches/
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.