Hilux2400

Ramps for levelling up Motorhomes (RV's in US) are also useful for this if you don't want to take the wheels off. They come pre-formed with steps and chocks.

I agree. This site is outstanding. Where else would you get such good advice. I contribute just $25. It's more than worth it.

2003 996 C2 Tip It all started with a green patch on the garage floor and my first reaction was a damaged air con pipe from road debris. When I looked further I found the plastic sheath has broken away to reveal a corroded and leaking air con pipe. On more searching I could feel ripples on both alloy pipes under the plastic sheath where the sheath is intact. Pretty poor really as I would have expected longer life. The corrosion is too extensive on both long pipes to consider a repair joint so I am replacing them both. Cost of parts is £192. My local garage has managed to recover about 0.5 litres of fluid. Anyone else experienced this type of damage?

The pedal should be hard to press with the engine off and all the vacuum assistance removed. Get in the car. Don't turn the engine on. Press the pedal a few times and it will stiffen up as the mechanical assistance of vacuum is removed. When you start the engine it will be possible to press the pedal further down as the vacuum assists. If the pedal is not hard without vacuum you need to bleed again.

I now use a vacuum bleeder as I don't like pressing the pedal to the floor as this forces the m/cyl piston through a long travel along parts of the bore that it doesn't not normally use. As your system is now mainly empty it will take some time to bleed it and you might have to bleed corners more than once. Once the system begins to fill the pistons will move out towards the discs once the m/cyl is able to exert pressure in the system. I have to say I have never experienced bleeding a system when all callipers have been removed and emptied. I have only ever done one corner at a time. Don't be tempted to pump the system continuously on a dry m/cyl bore. You might overheat the m/cyl rubbers and end up with another problem. If you don't have a vacuum bleeder you could do it by gravity alone at the start. This process works well if you have time. You crack open a corner and just let the fluid bleed out and continually top up the reservoir. It can take a day or more, but if you are not in a rush it does work on some vehicles. Good luck

You should try some of the crowded UK roads. I spend my time dodging pot-holes.

When you put the pistons in you should lubricate them with rubber grease or something similar. You can use brake fluid, but that gets messy.

Does in increase with the outer wheels when cornering?

Well done

Glad i Glad it was successful. Much junk in there?

My adjusters on a 2003 996 require an Allen key. Removal of the headlight pod requires a 5mm socket which I tape to a 1/4 drive extension bar. I carry one as part of my toolkit as the original tool has been lost. If you take the pod out it will give you an idea of how to locate the adjusters. The first time I did this it was a bit confusing but there are many videos about on this topic.

Sorry no pics. I took off the back wheels to give some space. The drain hole is behind the liner that is on the front side of the arch in front of the back wheel. There are three plastic nuts with flanges. They should come off easily. But before taking them off brush the area to clean them off and spay them with WD40. This should help preventing stripped threads. When you have the three nuts off just pull the liner out. Removing the lower sill spat is a bit more difficult as there are both posi-drive head self tappers and Torq headed self tappers. You don't need to do this as the arch liner has to be removed first and fitted last. Good luck

Listen to JFP. Don't let the system empty. It's easy to top up and replace, but it can be difficult if you introduce air locks. If you are replacing the flexible lines you don't have to worry about keeping the old ones. To seal the system put a clamp on the old rubber hose, or cut it through and turn it back on itself then put a small worm drive clip around it to seal it off. You can also cut it through and screw a bolt or self tapper into the cut end. It can stay like that until you are ready to replace it with the new hose when you put the caliper back on. Another way to seal an open end it with a matching male or female union part and a short length of steel tubing with one end flared and the other end bent over and crushed. The possibilities are many.

As you are replacing the flexible lines why not just clamp them to close them off when the caliper is removed. When you have the caliper back on then take off the flex pipe and put the new one on straight away with the hard line. If you do this quickly you won't lose too much fluid. Take care not to cross thread the unions. Tighten by hand first. As I said before, take off the reservoir cap and put an air tight seal over the reservoir fill hole. You can do this by putting a small piece of polythene sheet over the hole and replacing the cap on top of it. The reason for doing this is the plastic reservoir cap has an air hole which allows the space above the fluid to refill as fluid is drawn down into the m/cyl to compensate for pad loss. This seal won't stop fluid loss, but it will slow it down. When you have one caliper back together bleed that corner. If you take all the calipers off at once it's very messy and you might have a hard job re-pressurising the system. It's better to do one corner at a time and bleed it. Then when you have completed re-assembly bleed the whole system finally. Also wear gloves as brake fluid dries the skin and can be unpleasant. Good luck

Skuyumcu Apologies, my posting was not meant to cause offence or ask for money. Personally, I receive no financial benefit from this site. However, it is one of the best Porsche sites around and it costs a lot of cash to run it. I have been a contributing member for three years and a Porsche owner for the same length of time. Early on I recognised that the advice given here is top quality and provided by experts. I have certainly benfited from replies given to my questions and reading the advice given to others. A Porsche is an expensive car to run and the advice you will get from this site will save you thousands of Euros and in comparison $25 a year donation is peanuts. Look forward to reading more of your posts and happy Porsche ownership. H

Do at least two things: 1. Become a contributing member. This site it first class. No rubbish. Just facts and help. 2. Buy the book mentioned by JuncoJones.above.

Drill a hole through it with a long bit.

There's a lot of stuff on YouTube on this specific topic. If you use a socket wrench, I think it's 5mm, tape the socket to the drive bar.

I have read a few postings about water on the floor which can damage the electrics. Mainly this has been related to drop-head models caused by blocked drains in the hood well above the rear wings. When I looked further into this I found that this compartment drains out through a port that is behind the rear wheel arch front liner. Mud gets behind this liner and blocks the drain port. With this in mind I decided to remove the liners on my 996 and see what had accumulated. Mine's not a drop-head, but I thought it worth checking. On the passenger side the space behind the liner was almost full of mud. It had completely blocked the hole where water would have come out if I had a drop-head. In any event the crud had accumulated to form a nice damp wedge which only needs oxygen to complete the start of corrosion. I have now cleaned these areas out on both sides. If you have a 996, be it coupe, targa or drop-head, I recommend you remove this liner and clean out the crap. The liner comes out easily with just three plastic nuts for which you will need a 10mm socket wrench. The lower wing spat liner can also be removed, but that's not necessary to complete the job.

If you do not cap the brake hard lines when you remove the flex lines & calipers, you will quickly find out why Porsche developed the method of using the diagnostic computer to run the ABS/PSM system while bleeding the system, as the entire contents or the hydraulic system will gravity drain and you will get air into the control network. You do not need anything elaborate to cap the hard lines, a piece of rubber hose with a tight fitting screw in one end will do the job. I personally do not like clamping the rubber soft lines, they are already soft enough to reduce the hydraulic pressure in the system. If you want to do the job right, plan on replacing the rubber flex lines with DOT approved braided stainless lines while you have the car apart. You see a noticeable change in how your brake pedal feels when these lines no longer pliable rubber. Good advice

You obviously haven't done a job like this before and if it does not go smoothly you might end up with a problem that you cannot solve in your driveway. You will need to get the calliper off the car and on a bench to make the job easier. I don't think the pistons will come out with the calliper still connected to the hub carrier. Sometimes the calliper bolts don't come out that easily and can damage the internal threads on the hub carrier. This happens when the end of the carrier bolt has corroded and when it is undone it mashes the internal carrier thread. If this happens to you, you might need a new hub carrier - take care. The way to stop too much fluid leaking out and to retain fluid in the M/C and system is to put a brake line clamp on the flexible hose and layer of plastic sheet under the fluid reservoir cap. Also bleed each corner as you do the work. You will also need to bleed the complete system after you have completed the job. The easiest way to get the pistons out is with compressed air applied to the hydraulic inlet or bleed nipple port. When you do this the piston will fly our at great speed and can cause personal injury and damage to whatever it hits. You should cover the calliper with a shroud of some type to catch the piston. Also DO NOT put your fingers in front of the piston when you apply air pressure as the emerging piston might cut your finger off when it jams it between the circular rim of the piston and the opposite side of the calliper. Hope the job goes smoothly. .

I now use a vacuum bleeder which uses a compressed air source to drag the fluid out from the nipples. It's similar to this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Clutch-Fluid-Bleeder-Bleeding-Vacuum-Type-1ltr-Kit-One-Man-Air-Operated-/251602084288?hash=item3a94a721c0:g:gjwAAOSw3xJVcDOj When using this device you don't have to activate the brake pedal. I see this as an advantage as under normal use the pedal is never pressed to the floor and the piston travels in the polished section of the master cylinder bore. If the brake bleeding method of pressing the pedal to the floor is used the master cylinder seal travels through that lower part of the bore which is not normally used and therefore the seal could be damaged.

When front seats are removed from a 996 is there a safe waiting period, after the ignition is switched off, to avoid air bag operation? I know the under seat connector remains live after the ignition is switched off so that the seat controls can be operated.

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Have you tried changing the switches over from left to right? If it's a faulty switch at least this might help you to find the problem before you take the door apart. The driver's side switch takes more action than the passenger's side and will fail earlier. I had a similar problem last year. My son's Merc Sprinter driver's window would not activate, but the passenger side was OK. Fuses were OK, so I changed the switches over side to side and it worked. As I then knew what the problem was I dismantled the faulty switch to find that the contacts were dirty. I cleaned them up and now it works OK. Hope this helps.