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delirium

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Everything posted by delirium

  1. Nice wing. I bought a similar one. How did you get the air intake and fan attached to the underside of the tailbase?
  2. any new easy DIY's for head unit replacement? I have a 2004 wi the base stereo, but from reading this post it doesnt sound very straight forward beause of the harness & some wires are revered from the instructions??
  3. Use the OEM. No reason to change to an unknown I guess the only reason to change for me is because the dealer is ripping me off on these OEM filters :(
  4. So i went to the dealership & bought an oil filter for $25. Then I went to Autozone to buy my Mobil 1 0W-40. There is a special right now, and when you buy 5 quarts of Mobil 1, you get a free oil filter. Well, Mobile1 doesnt have an application for our 996, so the cashier gave me an STP filter instead. The filters pretty much look alike, of course the OEM one looks sturdier, but the STP one has the plastic cage inside and everything, not sure what the material is made of in either one, but my question is; should I use this in my 996? Would you? They retail for about $12, which is half the price of the OEM filter. If these are good to use, why not save some cash? But of course if its a terrible filter, I'll throw it in the trash. Opinions are appreciated! Thanks!
  5. when are coolant flushes required to be done? I thought we had lifetime coolant, just need to add... oops!
  6. i dont get how you pushe the caliper back in w/ the old pad? do you use a screwdriver? how do you get leverage? Or does it go in very easily? on my BMW i use a c-clamp to push it back in, but w/ the 996 it looks like no need to remove the caliper for pad removal?
  7. Ok, so i decided to install my Maxflo muffler bypass pipes tonight. I started with the driver side muffler removal, which went smoothly. Then came time to "slide" the bypass pipe onto the catalytic pipe per the fabspeed instructions on their webiste... problem is that it wont slip on! It seems that the muffler bypass is just barely too tight too go over the cat pipe... ok, so there are some slits cut on either side of the bypass pipes, which would prompt me to think that you can somehow spread the bypass pipe to go over the cat pipe... the bypass pipe is too stong for me to spread using anything I could thing of (hands, screwdriver, etc...) So, is there a way for me to 'slide' these pipes on by mylself? do i have to go to a shop for them to put it on for me? Or imaybe the pipe diameters are different across models and I got the wrong set? (i have a 2004 3.6L) Can anyone help me? My car has only one muffler on at the moment... Thanks in advance!
  8. is this tool just supposed to keep the shifter in neutral? how does this adjust the shifter cables?
  9. I thought the rear bumper is too wide & needs to be cut & put back together w/ less width?
  10. How do you push the piston back to its original position in order to fit the new pad in there? Use a screwdriver?
  11. My wireing harness has a wire in the #3 position, how can I retrofit? I have a 2004 C2 with halogens.
  12. anyone figure out how to retrofit a 2004 halogen to litronic?
  13. I have an '04 and my harness has pins 1,2 and 3 already being used. see attached picture. What do I do? 1 = black/white 2 = gray/black 3 = yellow/white
  14. I have a fluid extractor that I bought online (griots garage?), it goes thru the dipstick tube & can extract oil... I did this a couple of weeks ago, works like a charm.
  15. I do hear the same think in neutral... you have to listen really carefully & be in a tunnelish area where the sound will bounce back at you from the engine.
  16. My engine oil is lower when the car is at operating temps.. I have been told that this is becuase the oil has been pumped into the various part of the engine. When the engine is cold, all the oil is drained back into the oil pan & so the measurement is much higher... so although the oil expands at high temps, there is less oil in the pan because it is in the other parts of the car.... this is also why they start the engine up for a few seconds when filling the oil, so that you can get a reading of the oil that is left in the pan. your measurements are more full when your car is at operating temps?
  17. I know its on the full side, but not over filled as it does not surpass the max line on the dipstick.. however I have read that some people insist to measure the oil when the car is cold which would mean my car may be over filled. The owners manual says to measure at operating temps... which is right & why do some insist to measure cold?
  18. I have a 2004 996 C2, with 7200 miles and its a 6 speed. help! could it be the variable cams or something?
  19. Is there any muffler that has sound that does not trail off at the higher RPM's?
  20. you dont have to, but you can if you want less roll.
  21. I changed my oil by myself, but I want to check to see if my oil level is ok. This is what I see: Oil is cold: on electronic meter, all bars are filled. 2 minutes after pulling into garage: on electronic meter, 3 top bars are empty 10 minutes after pulling into garage: on electronic meter, 2 top bars are empty. On dipstick, the oil is right below the top (max) notch. The notch itself does not have any oil on it, just right below it on the bar. So, my oil is a bit on the full side, but is not beyond max (all bars filled) when at operating temps or higher. Is this acceptable? Should I drain some? (I have a fluid extractor)
  22. Right when I pass 3K RPM's in first gear I hear a slight rasp or very very rapid ticking or scratchy noise. It is hard for me to describe.. I think it might happen on 2nd gear as well, but its hard to say becuase the wind noise. I have my windows down to hear it, with the windows up, I do not hear it. I think the noise is more noticeable when the car is either cold and even afer it is just warmed up... the nose is not as noticeable after the car is fully, fully warmed up. Any ideas what this could be? I hope its nothing bad!
  23. There are 2 torque wrenches I am looking into at sears, one is longer than the other by about 4", but both are clicker type 3/8" socket. Which is more useful, the shorter handle one, or the longer handle one? I kind of think the shorter one so I can get into tighter places like when working on brakes, but the shorter one will not have as much torque as the longer one.. what would you recommend? Short one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes Long one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes
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