slbates

It can happen..I am on number 4. I have only replaced the switch in lieu of the entire mechanism that is supposedly the fix. I will do it the proper way next time

Some good advice above. Also check your oil filler tube. If it is original, you may have cracked it when you changed the air filter.

It does not matter. The freewheel pulley was an attempt to end some early belt shredding issues. Replacement 3.4 engines, whether manual or tip now come with the freewheel pulley. A separate replacement engine for tips was halted years ago...same engine with a wiring harness compatible for both.l

I see you just had your engine replaced. Are you sure the trans fluid refill was done correctly? The ZF tips are insanely sensitive to correct fluid levels and a lot can go wrong in a real hurry if the refill was not done exactly per Porsche procedures. How many miles after the rebuild before you started having trouble? You did not mention if you had any tip codes present. As an example, a bad pressure regulator 4 can give symptoms of a failing torque converter and is not a costly fix. I have spoken to at least 3 owners that had been told a new tranny was in order when the only thing needed was a new pressure regulator 4. You do have a couple of good options for rebuilds. I have never had the need at this point, but I keep info handy from others experiences just in case. http://www.freddiest...l/zf_5hp19.html http://www.peterschmid.com/ Please note Freddie's updates known factory problems in lieu of just replacing the minimum parts. Before you throw away a perfectly good transmission, check the simple stuff first. Have someone knowledgeable check the fluid level. Make sure the vacuum lines to the switch over valve are not hooked up backwards. The fluid will overheat, leading to certain failure if they are installed wrong. If you decide on a rebuilt unit, speak with the shop before you get the work done. Ask them about the filling procedure. Ask them about the switchover valve connections. Ask them about the locating pins for the torque converter and crankshaft. If they cannot answer correctly, find another shop.

RFM Aircraft Spruce sells a neat little gizmo that is foolproof for determining TDC. It will whistle when #1 is on the compression stroke. This is fairly easy to determine by turning the engine with a ratchet with all plugs removed. I first saw this used at the motor barn at the local FBO many years ago. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/compressionwhistle.php

ebay seller msroadrace has the for $221. No affiliation with this store.

1999 air bag bolt is a T-30 (p/n 999.073.134.02) It takes quite a bit of torque to get them out. The replacement bolts also come with blue thread locker already on the bolts (grade 8.8)

+1 on the ignition switch. I am on number 4 now and will likely change the whole assembly next go around. The switch life is totally unpredictable. Switch is easy to change (yeah I have lots of practice). I just slide the vent duct out of the way to change the switch. You may want to pick up a Picquic Teeny Turner.

Porsche issued a TSB on the spring clamps a few years ago. I had a couple of hoses start to leak and replaced the spring clamps with the screw type clamps listed in the TSB. None of the clamps I replaced have leaked since and that has been several years ago (circa 2005). The Porsche clamps are not as wide as the ones you will find at your local parts store (only about 3/8" wide).

I purchased a set of Powergrid adjustable links and have been happy with the quality and design. My 996 is a daily driver and I needed a set that would last and not succumb to the environment. The Powergrid deign is well suited for my application. My previous adjustable set wore out very quickly due to road grit/grime and water intrusion into the heim joint. Under different conditions they may have lasted a lot longer so I will refrain from disclosing the brand.

You don't need to remove the cats. An O2 crows foot and the proper extensions will get the job done. You do need to remove the air box.

When my drivers side failed, I had the grinding noise and no drop when opening or closing the door. When the passenger side failed about a month later it would not move at all. I could not move the window by pushing or pulling. The cable had broken a strand or two and had hopelessly jammed.

I had this problem on another car several years ago. It was the power brake booster. Hitting the brakes at idle introduced a big vacuum leak.

I would be concerned if the dealer did not know the two are different. I would query them on the procedure for changing the fluid and see what they say. I have seen a few ZF tips destroyed by incorrect fill procedures. They are very sensitive to fill levels and if they botch the job you will soon have a very expensive paper weight. A drain & fill guy is your worst nightmare.

There is an updated grommet for the early 996. I don't remember which years this applies to, but if you look at the picture you can tell if you have the latest. There is also a clear plastic cowl plug that keeps leaves and other debris from entering via the VIN ID cutout. Both improve the dreaded water back up problems.

I just replaced the fan resistor on my 996 as well. I have added a couple of pics to go with Perry's post.

As Loren and JeTexas have said, start with the old battery. If you have a VOM, check the voltage after first turning on the headlights for 30 seconds. This will burn of the surface charge of the battery. Voltage Charge Specific Gravity 12.6 100% 1.28-1.26 12.45 75% 1.25-1.23 12.30 50% 1.22-1.20 12.15 25% 1.19-1.17 As you can see, if you have less than 12.3 volts your car will not start. A sulphated battery will often indicate a good voltage but will not start a car due to high resistance caused by sulphation and the high current draw required to start a car. Your starter will draw 200+ amps to start. If you have an ammeter, check to see the draw to the starter. I have a Craftsman 73756 that works great and is more accurate than the old Snap-on inductive ammeter set I had. I have had two problems that have caused no starts on my 996. The first was a battery with a dead cell. I had taken my car to the dealer for the gas cap recall and the tech drove the car to the customer pick-up after changing the cap. The car would not start when I tried to leave. All lights worked, but nothing from the starter. A specific gravity test (in my presence) showed a cell had packed it up. Convenient that I was at the dealer for a free gas cap, but costly since they only sold Porsche batteries. The second issue I have had is ignition switch failures (4 of them). This is a quick fix and I can do it is about 10 minutes, but the next one that goes in will be the full assembly. Please note that a jump start my not work with a battery that has a dead cell or has an internal failure due to the high current draw. Also, check your battery terminals for oxidation when you change the battery. Poor connections (or bad grounds) will cause a no-start.

Option 1 Look in your owners manual for the Schlussel-Codekarte. It will have an 8 digit code that the dealer can use to order a new lock key if your lock nuts are in good condition. Option 2 As others have stated, take it to the dealer and they can remove the locks with a master key set they keep in a red plastic blowmolded case. Option 3 If you are not in a hurry, order an emergency lug nut remover. The 1" size works on the wheel lock. An impact wrench works a bit better with the remover in lieu of a breaker bar. This is the same thing the tire shops and AAA will use to remove the wheel locks for drivers stuck out on the road. Will cost you $5 for a set of two (13/16" and 1")

There is a bleed valve on top of the coolant tank. Latch it in the open position for a few days being sure to top up the tank daily. When the level stops going down you can close the valve. BTW... it does not hurt to drive with the valve in bleed position - Cup Car racers do it all the time. +1 Loren I ran with the bleed valve open for several weeks when I had a cracked coolant tank with no issues. The tank did not leak with valve open (not under pressure) and allowed me to replace the tank at my leisure. Back to the OP. I wonder how many engines have been tossed due to misdiagnosed failure mode or just the economics of the replacement program? I spoke to an owner who had been diagnosed with a cracked sleeve which turned out to really be a oil cooler failure. Back years ago, nobody would toss an entire engine due to a failed valve spring due to replacement cost but that scenario is likely highly played out today. In 1995 a factory rebuilt 911SC motor was about $15k.

PTEC remembers correctly, including the sequence. AT means "Austauschmotor"

They look like the ones I got from Mid America Motorworks, but they don't seem to list Porsche stuff any more. I lost some clips from mine, so I'd be interested to know where you got replacement clips from. Richard, I got the spring clips from Sears Hardware. I just found my last 10 pak in the garage so now I have a total of 12 clips. The old clips have the following marking on the leg: 170-205 T The clips from Sears only seem to have the numerical portion stamped on the clips. I measured both with a dial caliper and following are the dimensions: Width=0.500" leg = 0.440" thickness=0.140" The dimensions are exactly the same as part #1175 shown on e qual fast website. Hope this helps.

John, I think you may have had an adjustment issue. My 99 came with the accordian style pipes you mention before they failed due to age. I do not believe your problem was related to smooth vs. accordian. As 1999 said above, the newer mufflers fit just fine on a 996 Tip. As he mentioned, the mounting bracket is slightly different on the earlier cars, so just use your old ones to avoid alignment issues. The GHL's fitting perfectly fine on the Tip cars with no issues.

I will have to look and see if I can find the info. I bought them several years ago. They are held on with spring clips. I have been able to find replacement clips over the years for ones that have been lost or got knocked off.

What year/model is your car? For a 99 C2: Bosch #13564 (before cat) about $108 Bosch #13723 (after cat) about $81 Hint: Look on Amazon

I am in my 8th winter dring my 996 C2. Like many others, I also run 17" Blizzaks. I have run Pirelli but have found them to be very noisy after 3-4k miles. I think the Blizzaks are a bit better as far as traction goes as well. Snow over 6" deep along with frozen chunks of ice can easily damage the plastic undertrays. Mine ave a zip-tie or two holding them in place. I would also recommend the clip on mud flaps. The go on/off easily and will avoid sand blasting the rear bumper behind the wheels. They use a salt/sand mixture here and it is very hard on the paint if use don't put them on.