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nick49

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Everything posted by nick49

  1. nick49
    Usually what happens, is a piston on a heavily worn pad may cock slightly in the bore or become coated with brake dust, which will make it not retract properly. Removing the pistons, cleaning them and fitting new pads usually corrects the problem.
  2. nick49
    This is, in reality a downgrade. The TT or GT2,3 calipers and rotors will significantly increase the unsprung weight. The stock suspension was not designed to cope with these heavier loads. Your handling may go to hell, and Porsche enthusiasts in the know my chuckle at your decision. If you still want to do it, figure $2-$4k. You need GT2 or GT3 wheel carriers, wheel bearings, calipers complete with mtg bolts, rotors, possibly hoses, and fluid. You should check and make sure the master cylinder bore size is compatable with the larger piston sizes, otherwise the pedal travel may be greater than you would like, also check proportioning valves to regulate front to rear balance if required.
  3. nick49
    Unsure, but people with a 6 speed have used tip wheels and switches to control sound system and other functions.
  4. nick49
    Here's a pic of my little brother's detached garage. It will hold 2 pusher motorhomes and 4 normal cars or trucks. It has an upstairs loft, lots of work benches and working space. Hot and cold running water, heat, great lighting, etc. A little overkill in my opinion as he has a large garage attached to the house as well.
  5. nick49
    Geico has a mechanical breakdown policy which in effect is an extended warrenty. The terms are that it is added to your Geico insurance policy and has to be added before the Manufacturers warrenty expires. We still have this on my wifes '99 Boxster and it costs only $73.10 every 6 months and has a $250 deductable. We haven't had to make a claim yet but it's nice for peace of mind.
  6. nick49
    I go with 36 front and 44 rear cold on my '99 996 Cab as recommended in my Porsche manual for 18" wheels. I had run less but just got new rear tires so I thought I check what the manufacturer recommended and go with that. Because I had run less for a long time on my fronts and then filled them to the recommended pressure, my handling felt really darty and the car would want to turn way more than my input. This is because with the higher pressure the footprint is way too small and has adversly affected handling in a negative way. As the fronts are slowly wearing in and the footprint is getting larger the handling is slowly returning and will ultimately be terrific. Underinflation will increase wear significantly and can actually cause the casing to become stressed and damaged making the tire unsafe for high speeds and much more prone to a blowout. These Z rated tires need high pressure to keep them cool and work as designed, Porsche and the tire mfgs know better than anyone what should be run. And the recommended pressures are generally good and safe for all conditions, but some knowledgable people can play with the pressures to fine tune their car to their individual requirements. Before doing this understand and know the negative effects that can result.
  7. nick49
    Sounds like just another instance of Porsche rubbing it in your face why they are the most profitable car manufacturer in the world. I've seen many instances simular to this and it's short sighted business sence as far as I'm concerned, but what do I know?
  8. nick49
    With the price of gas going thru the roof I thought I would try driving relatively conservatively and see what kind of mileage I could get. On my '99 Cab mixed hwy/city I got just over 25 average and 352 on a tank before I filled up. This did include a couple of blasts full throttle entering the freeway and a few runs into the triple digits as is required when owning a car like this. I also used the AC some and it doesn't seem to affect mileage much, but the top down at speed probably does. Pretty careless driving and aggressive use of the throttle net me about 18-19 mpg average.
  9. nick49
    I believe a motor in good condition with 75K miles has a better chance of seeing over 200K miles without issues than one with 20K miles. Most catistropic engine failures I have seen happen early on usually before 50K miles. These are porosity issues, cylinder and sleeve related problems and intemediate shaft failures.
  10. nick49
    I just replaced my 18" rear Pirelli P-Zero Asymetricos. They were worn mainly on the outer 25%, then inner 10%, the centers had the least wear. I had a 4 wheel alignment when these tires were about 20% worn and ran the high recommended pressures.
  11. nick49
    Unsure of your braking problem, but thought you might like to know, Porsche strongly advises that on your year of car, 17" wheels are the largest diameter that should be used. This is up 1 inch from the standard 16". The chassis was not built stiff enough for the additional stresses caused from a larger and heavier wheel/tire combo.
  12. nick49
    A threaded insert such as a Timesert, Keensert or my last choice although possibly ok would be a Helicoil, can be successfully used to make a repair. If done properly, it is stronger than the orignial aluminum threads in the carrier. Most any automotive machine shop or well equipped shop car repair this for you at a reasonable cost.
  13. nick49
    PSS9 kit by Bilstein is a coilover kit at $2000 with adjustable ride height and dampening.
  14. nick49
    with the wheel off, a quick and centrally push with your thum will do it.
  15. nick49
    Has to do with the steering geometry at full lock and is exaggerated with wide tires and AWD. My Cherokee and other 4x4 vehicles have all done this.
  16. nick49
    shaft parallel to and driven by the crank. Sprockets on both ends that drive dohcs on r&l cylinder banks. They fail as the bearings are too small and the shafts under built. This has been corrected on later M96 motors and reman replacements for early cars. I thought the intermediate shaft problem was corrected before '04.
  17. nick49
    You're fine. Drive the car a while, shut it off, and check using the dipstick after sitting a few minutes. Top it up if necessary.
  18. nick49
    928leather.com specializes in Porsche leather, covering everything imaginable in genuine Porsche leather. He will do things the the factory didn't do with outstanding quality and reasonable prices. Contact Rob Budd.
  19. nick49
    Congrats on your dream car! I don't think this is too serious or expensive either. The coolant reservior holding tanks on early '97-'99 or '00 were prone to cracking. There have been a few subsequent tanks that are improved with updated part numbers. Have it checked and replaced with the latest part available. Good luck' Nick
  20. nick49
    WOW! Glad you were not injured. Maybe if you were going 100 or more the increased air speed would have lifted the turkey up and over your car without incident??? I remenber in an extremely heavy rain on the interstate in Wyoming, I was driving up to 115 mph without my wipers and the windshield kept clear. But water droplets are lighter than wild turkeys.
  21. nick49
    +1 The cables can become detached where the housing is held in alignment at the transmission and cause difficult shifting. A quick and easy fix you can do yourself. Don't overlook this as many who work on these cars forget to properly seat the cables and difficult shifting is the result.
  22. nick49

    Nail in Racing Tire

    nick49 replied to GT350's topic in 996 GT3

    When I was roadracing motorcycles, I plugged a front tire and continued to use it without hesitation. Speeds were slightly over 150 on the fastest part of the track and I knew from previous experience running with a totally flat front that as long as speeds were over 60-70 mph that the centrifugal force would make the tire fairly stable. Speeds below 60 would make the steering heavy and much below that, the front would really start to squirm and it could get un-nerving. Being in tune to the bikes handling, I knew I could detect a slight loss in air pressure before anything drastic happened so I did let it bother me. Go with your gut, if it worries you get rid of it as you will focus on it and it will keep you from giving it your all. If you feel ok with it, worst case, may be sloppy handling if you lost air. A car is a lot easier to handle with a flat than a motorcycle.
  23. nick49
    Try a bottle of HEET in the gas tank, will mix with any water. Worth a try!
  24. nick49
    I think you are taking what you have read about nitrogen in tires WAY too seriously. While roadracing motorcycles for years we used Nitrogen to fill shocks as it was pure, non flamable, and contained no moisture. We were aware of use for tires but why??? Nitrogen is basicly air with the O and other trace gases impurities and moisture removed. I would worry much more about the purity of the air you breathe than what goes in your tires.
  25. nick49
    You state twice that motor won't turn over but the stater will. If this is the case either the pinion gear is worn on the starter motor, the sprague clutch is slipping, the solonoid is not engaging the ring gear or the ring gear has an area devoid of teeth from previous damage. These are possible but unlikely. I think you mean the motor WILL turn over but won't start. If this is the case check fuel pressure at the test port, you can also try cranking the motor for a few seconds and smell the tailpipe for raw fuel. Check for spark too which may be more difficult. Try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes and reconnecting it and trying starter. This is all that comes to mind that you can easily check. Good luck!
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