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nick49

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Everything posted by nick49

  1. I had to replace mine a year ago in my 996. After buying a new one and relpacing it, I thought I would check out the old one to see why it failed. Using my meter I checked it and it was working fine. The plunger was just a little sticky so a few repeted pushes and a quick blast of lube made it perfectly operatable.
  2. Look at Michael Jackson, results could be as bad or worse. Seriously, a color change should only be done on a car like this if doing a complete frame up rebuild on possibly a salvage car, race car etc. For starters the factory info label will not correspond with the color, then to do a really good job the outside of the car is easiest. The underside of the hood and trunk is more difficult, door jambs, door insides, under trunk, around motor, under all weatherstrips, rubber, etc. A great job requires all interior and glass removal, fenders, f & r bumper covers and more. Anything less is a coverup an half a**ed paint job. I take it you didn't understand this, as well as the fact that a pefectly executed repaint will significantly affect resale value and a less than perfect one to a greater degree. In my book a repaint could knock off 30% or more of the potential value. Know the facts and make your own decision.
  3. There is a helper spring on the clutch pedal that decreases the effort and at the same time the feel, which many object to including myself. I've had my '99 going on 4 years and never could stand the soft wimpy feeling clutch. I was recently reminded that the helper spring could be removed so that the feel of the disegagement-engagement point could be properly felt. This mod also increases the pedal effort. Sounds like the previous owner may have done this mod on your car.
  4. I installed the PSE a couple of years ago on my '99 Cab and didn't bother with any of the vacuum lines, switches, ect. I left it all off at the advice of other owners who had it installed. It sounds great ALL the time, no regrets, and especially nice if I accelerate briskly. It remains fairly quiet if I drive conservatively and doesn't seem to bother anyone.
  5. Anyone who has followed the engine failures knows that is is most often an intermix of coolant and oil caused by a failed sleeve. The sleeve has either cracked, broken or slipped causing coolant to enter the combustion chamber. This was due to porosity in the very expensive cast aluminum engine cases using a new cylinder manufacturing process whereby the cylinder itself was porous aluminum like a sponge and the pores were filled with a hard ceramic type alloy. This was called Lockasil. If defective cases were found in production, they were salvaged rather than scrapped by having a sleeve fitted most likely of Mehanite or cast iron and I would assume a plated Nicasil bore. In my opinion, if you received a patched and salvaged case in your Porsche, whether buying new or used, you were getting short changed by the factory. You were paying a price for a product featuring a new and very expensive technology used in the manufacture of the motors promising near zero wear after over 100K miles of use and receiving something other than what was advertised. The good news is the cars featured a 4 year warrenty and any catistrophic failures were covered usually without question. Many failures beyond the warrenty period were also covered even for other than the original purchaser. Many were covered on an individual case by case basis with varying degrees covered by Manufacturer/Dealer and owner. If you bought the car a year or more after the factory warrenty had expired and were the 2nd or 3rd owner when the engine failed, you would be extremley disappointed but probably could not hold Porsche legaly responsable. So knowing the above, who will be the plaintiff? The guy who had a motor put in for free under the warrenty? The guy who had to pay labor for a "Goodwilled" motor? The guy who is the 3rd owner and the factory 4 year warrenty had expired years ago?
  6. I've been involved in several class action suits and have done nothing, nor received any compensation. I believe this type of suit does nothing but provide the law firm $ millions that handles the case and defendant gets a spanking. Most often to fully understand the legal BS in the C/A booklet describing the suit and your duties and obligations as a plaintiff, you will need to obtain legal counsel. A best case, if you win, you may receive a monitary settlement less than the cost of a cheap dinner, where your loss may have been in the $ thousands or $10Ks. This is the "Free Transmission Inspection without obligation" of our legal system, a tool to generate revenue for legal firms.
  7. Seals don't need replacing unless they are letting fluid leak and will do nothing to help your problem. Unsure but may be a proportioning valve that is malfunctioning or a problem ABS related. Have you tried braking really hard over 60 in a safe area? What happens? Is your stopping distance much greater than it should be?
  8. They will bolt on but the rear tire will hang out of the fender well slightly.
  9. I had a new motor installed less than a year ago and it has added peace of mind. All the potential problem areas of the earlier motors, RMS, Porosity, Sleeve issues, Intermediate shaft issues have all been eliminated according to what I've been told. Keep your car long enough and this will be no big deal. I'm running the Porsche Dealer fill for oil and will use 0w40 for my first change as I did before and I do in the Boxster. I'm glad I've got it in now in this 0 and below weather. I think some people think that 0w in the oil means that it has zero lubricating properties. It means at very low temperatures the oil is thin and has the ability to flow and reach critical areas far from the oil pump quickly preventing wear. As the oil starts to warm its viscosity keeps increasing up 40 weight SAE where it stays at operating temperature.
  10. With a flashing CEL you obviously have some codes stored that will help diagnose the problem. You need an OBD II code reader.
  11. If you had a fleet Porsches of the same model and used the same oil in each and drove them simalarly, oil analysis could point to excessive wear in one or more areas. This is useful for trucking companys but I believe the variables too great for one relatively new car. An oil change could flush out all the evidence. Also modern motor failures, and especially Porsche from what I have seen are not oil related. They are manufacturing/engineering defects, such as case porosity, slipping cylinder sleeves, undersized intermediate shaft bearings, etc. Just my take.
  12. That sounds bizarre! Why a hotter plug? What is your tuners reasoning behind this? I have built race motors for well over 30 years and still do, and form my experience if you increase the state of tune of a motor and a plug change is in order it is certainly most always a colder one. The only time I would install a hotter one would be if the standard one was too cold. Too cold a plug if it's the standard one could be because your injection is set up running a little too rich (more fuel than you actually can burn) or your rings and or valve guides or seals are worn and you are getting an oily residue in your combustion chamber and it's close to oil fouling your plugs. I'm not saying your tuner is wrong, it just surprises me at his recomendation and I'm curious as to his reasoning.
  13. My daily driver is a Jeep Cherokee and a Lexus 400h for my wife. We also have a Boxster (going on 5 years) and a 996 Cab (going on 4 years) for pleasure driving. Both Porsches are a lot of fun to drive. The Boxster is a tip and is mainly driven by my wife and the 996 is mine. I perfer the 6 speed in the Carrera as I seldom drive in stop and go traffic. And I would perfer my loaded Carrera to any Boxster even one several years newer. If I was unable to afford any 996 in good condition I would gladly have a Boxster but to me the Carrera is worth the extra money. Driving the 966 means never having to appolige or respond to comments such as "isn't the Boxster a chics car?" or "Isn't that (Boxster) the cheaper Porsche?". Anyway regardless of your choice you will most likely be happy.
  14. I have worked with aluminum a bit modifying heat treated aluminum motorcycle frames and swing arms for roadracing. I learned that these items after heating, bending, and welding will go back to their original hardness in time. To keep them plastic and workable we pack them in ice. Even at room temperature the will quickly return to their original hardness. You may talk to a local metals heat treatment shop to find out more. I have a friend that has heated, straightened, welded broken lips on and remachined wheels on his Porsche Fuchs wheels with very good success. I think it's done all the time. Good luck!
  15. Riviera Blue is close with the code being L39E. If you're interested, here's a link to a 993 Turbo that was the only one painted that color in the US. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/359602
  16. Use the colder plug. Generally a hotter one is for an engine with a lot of miles that may have ring sealing issues, bad valve guide seals or worn valve guides. Or anything else that would contribute to lower than normal compression or oil entering the combustion chamber requiring a hotter spark to start the burn. High performance tuning, ie cams with more aggressive profiles, higher compression, bigger valves, supercharging, etc will usually call for colder than stock plugs because elevated running temperatures coupled with higher compression make the fuel easier to ignite. Hope this helps.
  17. That looks like Riviera Blue that has long been a Porsche favorite. I think it first became popular many years ago when Porsche was using very bright solid colors they refered to as "Gum Ball" colors. They included Red, orange, green, blue, yellow, white and black. I think if you research it further it is Riviera Blue, paint to sample, a special exclusive option.
  18. Spark plug heat ranges are not directly related to making your car faster or slower. Use the coldest plug that allows complete combustion, easy starting and normal operating temperatures. Too hot of a spark plug can and will damage your motor. Too cold will cause poor performance, misfiring, etc.
  19. You are correct to start with the RR first. The mityvac will work great just open one of the bleeders and you may need to open it a full turn or two or more to get a good flow. If it seems aereated or bubbly you are probably drawing in air around the bleeder fitting. In this case remove the bleeder and wrap the threads with teflon tape to create a good seal and try again. Either bleeder will work as the fluid passages are connected, and they use two as a means to evacuate air from the highest point of each pair of cylinders of these dual acting calipers. Hope this helps.
  20. I know form experience that thinner oils will definately weep, seep, and leak faster and leave their trace faster and more noticeably than heavier ones. This is a problem also on some vehicles when switching from a paraffin base to a synthetic oil. I would not recommend any additives, especially like STP that increase the viscosity so much when cold that getting critical lubrication to areas furthest from the oil pump upon startup could be a problem. STP is for old worn out motors with very loose tolerances. If you want to try a heavier oil, I would use a 10w 40, you probably don't need the 50 weight when hot.
  21. You have the console delete option common on GT3 cars to loose weight and unneeded clutter. There is typically a small storage tray and a CD storage compartment there along with knee pads which may not be desired for tracking. I'm sure you can add this if wanted. Let us know how you like the car.
  22. It sounds like you dealer is guessing...often what some do to cover themselves when they don't know the answer and are afraid to admit it. Anyway in my 996 shifting got difficult shortly after I had the clutch replaced. I thought something was very wrong as shifting became more and more difficult kind of like when the trans is cold but it didn't improve with warming it up. I jacked up the car and found the shift cables were free floating near the trans and not located in there respective holders where they lock in place. Also disturbing was finding the 2 trans end mounting bolts less than finger tight with the nuts just floating on the end. No wonder when driving aggressive and shifting hard it felt like the whole motor would jump around...it was. I snapped the cables in place and tightened the trans mount and the car felt just superb, snappy and tight like it should. I will save all the other problems I found for another thread.
  23. You may have had a free flowing element such as a K&N. These on some cars will increase the intake noise and add noticeable seat of the pants performance. Changing back to stock would take this away. If this was the case, your dealer should have cleaned and recharged the lifetime K&N rather than replaced it.
  24. I certainly wouldn't have it replaced for 1 drop a week. You run the risk of doing much more damage to the car by having the engine removed and the disassembly needed for the seal replacement and put back together. The 1 drop could become 3, not to mention all the things you could find that have not been put back togerter correctly, damaged or broken in the process. I know, I'm in a related business, and it happens much more often than not. The faster the Techs do the job the more they and the Dealer make.
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