AWDGuy

EDIT: thread was originally made to find the right tools...now ive changed it to host my engine tear down progress check out the pics! I've started the engine removal/disassembly process and have started shopping for tools. I know I can make my own, buy have chosen to buy a set, the thing is, I'm not sure what kit will work with my motor. Looking at a kit like this, but I see the note on the description saying it won't work with a 3.6 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L0ZOZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_3?qid=1420817758&sr=8-3-spellπ=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 Could one of you gurus point me to the right kit? Thanks!

Hard to start when warm? I have the same thing and will be replacing the regeneration valve: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47219-hard-start-after-refuelling/

Long before you would burn a piston, the car would code, even with the stock DME flash. And to go back to what Loren already stated, "on a normally aspirated 996 you can spend several thousand dollars and maybe get to an additional 30 HP", and that would be on a ten-tenths prepped car. We have had customers literally go the full boat (headers, sport cats, exhaust, intake mods, and even multiple DME re-flashes) and barely get that level of increase on these normally aspirated cars on a good dyno. We have also had owners try multiple brands of component's (headers, exhaust systems, re-flashes, etc.) end up with more spare parts than I have in my shop and a wallet that is easier to sit on, but not much more of an improvement, which was also completely born out in track lap times. It is not easy to get a ton more performance out of these cars, and quite plainly many owner's end up wondering if the view was really worth the climb. For 996 NA cars - as I'm sure you'd know - tuning is more about the driveability, throttle response, air/fuel ratios...about maximizing the gains from the headers and cats you just added to the car. Then again, feel free to nitpick and focus on certain points of my response to benefit the lesser-informed. Or if you simply wish to discredit my suggestion.The mods I suggested can be done for under $1500, if one has decent DIY skills. Headers, 200-cell cats welded in place of the OEM ones, a $720 tune such as this. Relatively affordable for the Porsche-owning high-rollers, right? Again, remember the OP's question. While at no point did I mention anything about "a ton more performance," my response simply offered the biggest bang-for-buck suggestion. Power-wise, it's where NA 996s get the most noticeable gains for the least outlay. No more, no less. Do you have before and after dynos showing the gains of these mods?

Love my super sports. Did a couple lapping nights @ calaboguie with them and they held up really well.

I have all the tell tale signs: -sooty left hand exhaust -high oil consumption -tapping noise from bank2 Otherwise she pulls great, idles great, no check engine lights, I'm almost tempted to just keep driving it and adding oil but get a lot of different feedback. Some say stop driving it immediately, some say just add oil and drive. What's the consensus here about scored cylinders?

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flofocus/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG-20141110-WA0001_zps3d1ac41b.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Had a coolant smell come through the cabin with the heat or AC on, been there since I bought it in April but its been getting worse. Performed a search here and found a thread by loren explaining the removal. Got the part from pelican and installed it this weekend. At 1st I wasn't convinced I found my issue as the heater core casing was bone dry....every pic of this repair showed a little puddle at the bottom. I guess mine wasnt leaking that much yet. You can see some small leaks and the side had an oily coating.....same coating that was beginning to apply itself to the bottom of my windshield when the heater was turned on. Here some pics of the heater core. Very easy job, 2 beer job. Easier than replacing the voltage regulator [emoji1] thanks for the pointers I got here. Wish fixing my scored cylinders was this easy. Edit: Not sure why the IMG tags don't work here...sorry...no pics

I just sit in my garage and stare at her. She dont mind.

I'll be using jack stands for sure. Not my 1st time doing this. Done a few engine/trans pulls, and safety is always my 1st priority.

Yeah - Not in the budget.

Car will be put away for the winter soon, and while it is being stored, I will be pulling the motor, disassemble, and send the cases to LNE for some Nickie's. Looking at my car parked in the garage last night got me thinking. I have a double 20x20 garage. Not big at all and where the car sits, the stairs to the house door are maybe 3ft away from the rear bumper of the car. Everything I read says to take the motor out from the bottom, with the transmission. My questions is will I have enough room to pull the motor and trans out. I can remove the stairs, temporary, and that will give me another 2-3ft of space. Maybe I'll snap some pics tonight...

My car is having issues starting after hot. Its never not started though, and I believe my issue is this; http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47219-hard-start-after-refuelling/ May be worth a read....

Can vehicles with scored cylinders be driven for a whilr as is, ensuring oil is topped off at all times? Will they eventually experience catastrophic failure?

Same with me. Marks motors in ottawa quoted 4 hours for R&R the alternator & $130 for the regulator. Site visit to pelican auto parts to buy the $40 regulator and read their how to's, wait for parts to arrive, and a few hours later, I am up and running. I figured I saved about $700.

What kind of Michelin s? I have the super sports and used them a couple of times at the local race track with great success.

Mine is a 02, 3.6. I get smoke on start up like that every second week or so. My smoke is blue though and I burn oil like mad so I believe my issue is ring/cylinder related. If your not burning any oil and the car is running fine, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I had the same symptoms as you. Alternator also tested fine on the bench but I replaced the regulator anyways. That was my problem. Stupid easy to do following the how to's on pelican. I'd do the regulator ($40 on pelican) 1st before chasing ground issues.

I can't comment about the Porsche engine specifically but I've always used an impact to REMOVE the fly wheel bolts.

Would a worn out key cause any of this?

Sure sounds like a broken regulator. When mine went, the window was already down and I couldn't close it.

Yes. Do a search for micro switches. I Bought the micro switches from digikey but ended up not needing them as my issue was the switch was not plugged into the micro switch....there's multiple micro switches on the door handle switch and you will need to take off the door panel to get to remove the door switch. I found a few how to's searching with Google.

Are you using Porsche OEM regulator?

Ah, I'm the thick one. Mis read the op.

There's two white knobs or "bump stops" on the bottom of the regulator. Where it bolts to the bottom of the door towards the front of the vehicle. Will the the door panel off, bring the window down and look for where it stops. Betcha it stops as it hits the 1st bump stop

There was 2 bump stops on mine. I had to remove the top bump stop to get my window closed all the way down.