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rik881

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Everything posted by rik881

  1. I have removed the heads off my S myself without taking the engine out. There is no need to change all the valves, you can just change out the bad ones. Exhaust valves for the s are way cheaper by the way. You need a tool for the timing which cost about a $100 but you can make it yourself easily. You also should download and read the Workshop manual.
  2. Why don't you guys buy the Touareg pumps? These are the same and a lot cheaper. I paid less then 200 for both pumps.
  3. I could write a book about it by now. Almost finished. Don't even know where to start. In short: First i got both head off, i then put the timing back exactly as i had pulled it. I had not thought about the timing chain tensioner. So timing chain jumped one or more teeth. I then hand made a locking tool for the camshafts. Easiest saved money ever! Car was running horrible and i got codes misfire on cilinder 2 and o0349 for the camshaft position sensor. At least the timing was correct! Misfire because i had a broken exhaust valve on cil 2 and p0349 because the don't know how to call it on the back off the camshaft was bent. I first got out bank 2 sensor and saw a scratch on it. I then borrowed another sensor but nothing changed. When i took out the second sensor i saw the same kind off scratch on it. I then realised it was the thingy ont the camshaft that was to blame. I now am almost ready to drive. I just need to get the other sensor from bank 1 back in place. Which is very hard to do by the way. Then i can go back to work on my interior. I have a new rear carpet installed already, just need to put the seatrs back and the mid console.
  4. You keep your mirrorglass holder, the new mirror goes in there. I don't know if it dims though.
  5. Cover is sold seperately and you can buy a replacement glass as well. Should set you back about a 100$. Ebay has both.
  6. You are talking about the cable that goes to the connector from the coil i guess? Nice you got your CTT running fine. I have done head gasket on my CS myself but i did not het the timing right yet. Why did you change timing chain?
  7. I'll do just that, thanks. Third time, best time as we say in dutch.
  8. Does someone have experience with setting the timing because i don't seem to get it right? When inserting the pin in the crankshaft pulley cilinder 1 is not yet at tdc. Almost but not yet. Timing has to be set with the pin inserted the workshop manual says. I did this but i still get misfire on cilinder 2 and a very crapy running engine. I wonder if i give the crankshaft one more turn and set the timing again if that would do the trick. If i had the timing wrong with a complete turn from the crankshjaft would the engine start? Why don't i get a dtc from the timing? I switched coils on cilinder 2 and nothing happened.
  9. Ok so i took off, belt, crankshaft pulley and timing chain housing which was not needed. At least now i know for sure it was because of the tensioner the timing got screwed up. I now have the timing set. I made a camshaft timing tool myself and got the timing right this this i think. I can't believe some seller ask more then a 100 dollars for this tool. The problem with the timing is that there is no way to know if the crankshaft is a the right stroke to set the timing so you have to guess. Or am i missing something here. If the timing where wrong the engine would not start. So my engine is running now. Not the way it should though. I get misfire on cilinder 2 and camshaft sensor a bank 2 dtc's. I don' think these faults have anything to do with the timing. P0018 did not came back and check engine did not come either. I'll have to look into the sensor now i think. I don't understand why i get a misfire on cilinder 2. Any feedback would be gladly appreciated.
  10. Update: i got the timing chain housing off today, a whole lot faster then the first time by the way, and i think the tensioner was the culprit. Cilinder 1 is at tdc now i am going to adjust the camshafts monday.
  11. Last parts arrived yesterday, so i put everything back together just to find out the timing is wrong. I get p0018, i guess that can only be the timing. I did mark the timing belt and put it back on the right tooth. I will test the sensors tomorrow but my guess is the timing must have slipped a tooth, engine runs but i get misfire on cilinder 1,2 and 3. I hope to not have damaged anything i had the engine running (or should i say shaking?)for less then five minutes stationary.
  12. Timing chain and housing are back in place! Gaskets for the valve cover arrived but the engine coolant hose, new thermostat and the coolant vent line will take another week to arrive. I also drained the power steering fluid because it was pretty black. If anyone wants to try this, be prepared because it is a very big job. It is a huge amount of work. Thank you guys for the work shop manual and the parts catalogue! I can't wait to turn the key!
  13. Thanks for the advice! Second head is back on. Now it time for the timing chain to go back on and then i'll be waiting for gaskets and T hose connector to arrive. I also have a lot of work inside the car i changed the carpet and have to reinstall everything.
  14. I have found my part! Turns out they only sell the entire hoses with the T connection i need. Does anybody have any experience with porschepartshub.com? They sure are a lot cheaper then Ebay and Amazon.
  15. 13 is for the screw, i need a T connection. My part has no part number in the pdf. 948 106 361 02 is written on it, but i can not find it anywhere. I guess i'll be needing a dealer.
  16. Thanks for the link, car is a Florida car by the way.
  17. I think number 11, i added a pic of the broken connection.
  18. Thanks man, i got the first head back on and the second off. Both heads tested fine. Both gaskets were gone. Fan has been repaired. Just waiting for seal and coolant vent lines which were broken. Coolant to alternator line was broken as well but i can not find the partnumber for that. Does one have this partnumber?
  19. First head is back in place waiting for the head bolts to be torqued. Torque specs i've found in the shop manual: Setting torque --> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb. --> Tightening torque: 37 ftlb. Undo all cheese-head bolts. Final tightening torque: --> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb. --> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb. --> torque angle: 90 ° To be continued...
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