986Jim

On some vehicles there is. But not on a Boxster. Sure there is! When you drive does it slip? no? clutch is fine enjoy.

Well you can start by not rocking back and forth in the seat lol.. Pull the seat out and have a look at the tilt mechanism and the straps under the seat. Make sure everything is tight. Have a look at the tilt and see if it's all cloged up with dirt and hair or anyting. Clean it up, lub it again with some white lithium or other all purpose grease and tilt it around on the ground to isolate the noise and clean it up. I'm sure it's something you can fix with just messin with the seat on the ground where you can look at it and work with it. Probablly just something in there gettin stiff and the small amount of movement the seat back has normally is now squeeking when there is weight on it in a certian position. Should be pretty easy to fix with a bit of time.

You can pick up one of these front lip spoilers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-986...sspagenameZWDVW

Did you guys see this thread? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10247 Yeah I saw that thread. :P

Well it's a good thing that I own a Race shop and race cars and build race cars then cause otherwise I wouldn't know what I'm talking about then would I? 5mm won't make a difference on the wheel studs. Many aftermarket wheels have that large a difference in them vs. oem wheels in the depth of the lug nut holes. When was the last time you measured them to make sure they were ok? Right, thought not. You have to remember that OEM also says things to cover them selves from law suits. If in the odd chance something did happen that was totally unrelated to the spacers but a wheel fell off and caused a problem they can say did you replace the bolts which had nothing to do with it and when you say no, they are off scott free. It's not all about engineering when it comes to cars, trust me on that. It's about Money and how they are going to get screwed with what they sell and tell you. If you did change the bolts then they can argue well it wasn't that parts fault then. I would say put on longer studs as well, but you don't have to and it will be fine. I only change out studs however not for longer one's but titanium or magnesium for lighter weight. Lots of companies make some awesome studs & bolts that are super light. In many forms of racing you end up having to run entended wheel studs which protrude though the ends of the lug nuts so you can visibally see they are there and on tight during pre-race inspection anyway so in a real race condition this doesn't even apply.

Try a honda/acura performance shop in your area. I build turbo cars mostly Honda's and we use smaller diameter pipe for wastegate and other items which would be suitable for doing the OEM muffler bypass mod. They could do it for you no problem, just bring in a picture to the shop. Make sure you find one that does turbo and custom work and welds up custom exhaust systems. That way you will know they are competent with welding and fabrication. We have guys come in with snowmobiles and trucks and stuff and we do odd jobs for them all the time cause we are known for weird fabrication and can do whatever people are looking for. You can buy a muffler from ebay pretty cheap. Compare say $200-300 for a custom job done to your vs. some of these options: Dansk Style new: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-04-PORSC...sspagenameZWDVW Dansk Real used: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dansk-Porsc...sspagenameZWDVW Custom Twin Muffler: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...083001061QQrdZ1 OEM PSE: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...095172236QQrdZ1 Should be able to find something there you like. Search for "Boxster Exhaust" to see more.

Whats the diff? any pics of that? Did they do something to modify the flow into the intake inlet or direct the air away to stop things from flying in?

Brilliant. Thats exactly how I'm doing mine... I'll photograph it this summer with a full step by step. This seems to be something that people do and ask about a lot, be nice to have a really well documented version of how to do this just for fun. It's easy to do, nobody needs instruction, but I'm an amature photographer so I just enjoy taking pics of stuff...

Honestly it's a lot easier to do than you would think. Once you look at the manual and do it for the first time you will realize it's really a snap and after that you will be able to get in there in under 10 minutes. When you clean your maf you may not have the proper bit to get the maf out. Pull the pipe out if you can with the maf in it. Just use any type of plyers or vice grips and grip the sides of the screw and turn gently to loosen it and then unscrew it with your fingers. Throw those stupid torx bits away and use some standard screws to put it back in then you can use regular tools next time and not worry about it. The basic procedure to open the engine compartment hatch is this. 1) Open the top 10" or so 2) unhook the back of the top from the frame 3) chop the window so you can fold it 4) fold the top back (towards the front of the car) to give yourself room 5) pull the carpet and speak box if you have it 6) undo the big screws that hold the real cover down 7) enjoy...

I remember seeing guys who modified the stock exhaust system (not with the bypass pipes) to make it louder. What they were doing was cutting a slit in the pipe on the inlet of the exahust system where it's inside of the muffler so noise could escape into the first chamber which is acctually the last chamber before existing the tip to make the exhaust louder. From what I saw and read it helped quite a bit in the sound department from the exhaust. Anybody remember what Im talking about and have that pic? Not sure if it was here or rennlist.

I have used 5mm spacers on lots of cars (VW Mostly to push the wheels out the Euro-look) and have never put extended wheel studs on to make up for them and have never had a problem. The wheel nuts have a lot of threads to hold them on and losing 5mm is not enough to cause a problem, espicaly on a 5 lug car. Hell we did 10mm spacers on 4 lug golf's with the stock studs and no problems never mind 5mm.... (for years too from the MK2 85-91 Golf's forward to now) I have a feeling Porsche tells us that more for a liability standpoint than anything else. If in the off chance something were to ever happen, then everybody who bought spacers would get free studs from porsche with installiation which would cost a mint.

Broke an axel huh.. I had that same noise on my talon but it was the rear diff exploding on me at the track. I have the center diff welded so the car went into FWD mode with 500+whp and all the sudden the car buckes then the front tires light up like a christmas tree down the track hhahah. It was pretty cool. Cost me another diff I had sitting around, no big deal... The diff was the first thing I thought about, funny the axel broke instead...

Ghost Ride your whip!!!

Something is loose around the muffler that is causing the rattle, as soon as a little heat hits it and the metal expands the rattle goes away. What you wanna do is get under the car when it's totally cold and start banging the muffler and pipes with a rubber mallet to see where the noise is coming from. Dont use a regular hammer cause it will make more noise than the rattle and you wont find it. The rubber will keep it quiet. Banging the tip probablly would be best just lightly enough to make the rattle happen. The start feeling around to see what is loose causing it.. It could be inside the muffler and not be a whole lot you can do about it. You can try banging the muffler in the spot that is ratteling it may stop it if you put a small dent in the metal, but could make it worse as well. If it's a clamp that holds the mid pipe (cat pipe) into the muffler then you can tighten it up and problem will be solved. Chances are it's not inside the muffler but something else that is doing it. There are only a few baffles inside there and it's welded pretty well so that things like that dont happen...

I have converted a lot of Honda's from Auto to Manual and with the right parts it comes out just like normal. Everything is designed so every car could have been manual or automatic. You'll need quite the assortment of parts tho. Don't forget the center consol or auto shifter with linkage to the trans. Also there is a really good chance that the mounts for the tip tranny are in a different position than the manual cars are. Most of the auto manual swaps I do I need to re-locate a mount. Have a look at the mounts of the auto to make sure, you may need to cut the mount out and move it to accomodate the manual trans. Not sure about Porsche, but on the Integra I always have to. Be prepared to buy a lot of "stuff" from the dealer that you just didn't think of.

Hi everyone, I have been reading this forum for a while now, and here is my first post... A pre-cat O2 sensor failed in my car once, and it was followed by a cat failure. When the dealer exchanged the cat (for free), they told me that the exhaust gas overheated, and "burnt away" the internals of the cat. (I track the car.) While I am at this...the brand new O2 sensor is throwing the same "aging" code as before... any suggestion on where should I look next? Thanks! Toby Speed Yellow 2001 Boxster S Racing is a whole different sport. You know the saying. If you ain't breakin parts, you ain't goin fast enough... Good job on blowing them out racing, shows your going for the glory! If your gonna race it, get a header and straight pipe to your muffler then your O2 sensors will be fine. The cat causes a backup in the exhaust flow, they are 85% of the restriction in your exhaust system. For racing pull them and you will not have problems with the O2 sensors. The cats get so hot and your over whelming them with having the car "on boil" for so long that the O2's then get really hot. It's not the exahust that is ruining them but the cats getting so hot they burnt them out. If you had headers and a straight pipe with no cat it would have never happened. If your worried about the emissions then get a 200cel cat and add it to the pipe, your computer will be happy too. With a standard straight pipe you will get a CE light for rear O2 sensor not seeing a different reading, catalyst failure or some other stupid code. If you have a cat even 200cel it will give a different reading and not trigger the O2 CE light. The first 02 sensor is what the ECU looks at for the tune state of the engine. THe rear O2 sensor (after the cat) only measures the catylist efficiency. Basically it should read almost no air particles at all beause the cat would have finished up the combustion process in the cat, so the air/fuel mixture of the exhaust after the cat will be a lot higher as the air is all burnt up. As long as the second 02 can see any different that is within parameter it will be fine. A 200cel cat will do that. You'll get a lot more flow for racing, no burnt up O2 sensors and still keep the light off...

Yeah but thats 2 hours of me not driving! :cursing: Lol.. So you painted them with 2-3 coats, did one side at a time I'm guessing with a jack. You left 20 mins between coats tops and put the stickers on kinda wet and put the wheel on to cure with heat and time. So 60 mins total per side wheel off three coats, stickers wheels back on kinda thing.. Hmmm... I have a heat gun too, could help with drying time... What did you use to paint? VHT Caliper paint and paint it on or somehting you brushed on? In the past I used VHT caliper paint sprayed it into the cap, and brushed it on, works great. But never turned out glossy...

Thats acctually a myth... Running too rich or lean will not hurt O2 sensors, contrary to popular belief. I know a lot of people will try and argue me about this, but please call bosch and have them tell you if you need to. Running lean can hurt its time overall beause of extra heat, but generally most O2 sensors are far enough downstream they don't have a problem like this... O2 sensors read Oxygen only, they don't read fuel or fuel particles, thats why they are called O2 sensors. So as the amount of oxygen changes in the system the sensors read that level and report it back to the ECU. They will survive an enviroment of 0-1600 deg with a long life time. A rich car runs cooler, so it's not hard on the O2 sensor, they don't read fuel, only the particles of air so running rich means there is more unburnt air in the exhaust (along with unburnt fuel) so the O2 sensor will read that info back. Running lean means your Air/Fuel ratio is say 14.7:1 or higher (16:1 lets say) which is the ratio entering the cylinder. If you go rich its the other way around say 10:1. Either way there is sitll combustion happening and the amount of air entering or not entering the exhaust will change and the O2 sensors will read it as per normal. The engine pretty well can't get that far out of the parameters and still run partially normally long enough to really do damage to the sensor. Normally aspirated cars dont run hot enough (not like turbo) to really do any damage to O2 sensors. My talon has a huge turbo on it and originally had an O2 sensor right behind the turbo in the downpipe. I moved it down the pipe about 10" so it was farther away. I would notice it get lazy when I was running race gas and lots of boost into the 400whp area because the exhaust temps were nearing 1600 deg and the sensor was sooo close to the head. Even that tho didn't kill the sensor, and it ran really rich compared to a N/A car and had way more heat from the exhaust. See where I'm going with this? A 200hp car N/A with the sensor at least 10" away from the head can pretty well do whatever it wants and it's not gonna hurt the sensors.. OK, so here is where I'll stop an wait for some internet expert to jump in and tell me they have seen it 1000 times and I don't know what I'm talking about... <_<

Both mufflers would have enough cfm for either motor, so I doubt there is much change between teh S and non-S muffler. Somebody please chime in if there is. I'll bet that it's just the tips that are welded on which make the difference. I understand wanting to keep the quiet muffler so it's not so noisy, a Dansk muffler would do a pretty good job of that, but they are expensive as well... In the test on the 2.5L the aftermarket muffler which was straight through only picked up 6hp and 1 ft/lbs of torque, so if the S muffler does have slightly higher fow, it won't be straight through so the gains if any will be pretty well non-existant.

Looks awesome, im doing mine this spring and after looking at that, cant wait to do it. Problem is, I'm too busy driving the car in the summer to park it and work on stuff like that..

NO I had no problems at all with DRL's. The 986 seems to power the DRL's at full power were the 987 is at a reduced power lever which causes them to flicker and not come on. So in a 987 you would want to disable the DRL's which can be done were just not sure how yet, but it's only a matter of wiring. I have a bently manual for my car but not a 987 so I'm not sure. Many 986's have installed them with no problems, mine are still mint though the car is "sleeping..." shhhhh......

I know this is totally not helping you but you say you found how to remove the DRL on a 986, I would like to see that if I could...?

The bernoulli effect is real. However that lip on the bottom of a stock Boxster S bumper is only for looks. Real difusers like shows on the Ferrari above do work. Look at the C5R race cars, those are difusers...

This thread sucks with out pics hahaha. Lets see the damage.. Sorry to hear about that, I have done a few bo-bo's before like that on cars in my days of modifing them... You'll never lean or leave an open bottle of anything in the car again tho, so generally things like this don't happen a second time.

They aren't going to do much for power, they are T'd directly off the pipe. You need to make a Y pipe with them coming off there. Having them has a hard T off the stock exhaust pipe is gonna just create a whole lot of noise.. I doubt your going to gain much in the way of power with that either.. I put one on a guys talon that was making about 480whp and made a Y right off the downpipe before his "cat" and it picked up about 40hp or so from the exhaust not having to travel through the exhaust. Thats a turbo car however...