I Used Glue And Now I'm Stuck

[nik]

Dear All,

Seasons greetings to all, I've spent the last couple of days tidying up those annoying little things, such as replaced the sun visor hinges, replaced a snapped off wind deflector bracket, steam cleaned and shampood carpets etc etc.

Any way to the point the very last job I had to do was that I had a small tear in the leather part of my Tequipment handbrake, being fussy I decided that a bit of superglue and then a rub over with shoe polish would cure it. The fatal mistake was I took the superglue pot into the car and rested it on the console, I'm sure you all know what is coming next - YES I did knock it over and spilled superglue all over the console.

I have managed to source a second-hand item, and have worked out how to remove the old one, However the 2 items I need to swap from the old to the new are the storage lid and the lock, does anyone have any tips or a link to a procedure for doing this.

Many thanks

Nik

[vfxbox]

there are 2 screws under the rubber carpet in the storage lid. lift up rubber and first one is edge of rear center, next one is near passenger side. Once you have 2 screws removed, lift it up little bit and use long nose plier to remove cable right under the push/lock.. it should snap out.

Good luck.

[djomlas]

ouch man, i bet u knew it was gonn happen too deep down inside you as soon as u brought it into the car ha?

[986Jim]

This thread sucks with out pics hahaha. Lets see the damage..

Sorry to hear about that, I have done a few bo-bo's before like that on cars in my days of modifing them... You'll never lean or leave an open bottle of anything in the car again tho, so generally things like this don't happen a second time.

[Tool Pants]

We put a new console in a GT2. Had to remove the lid and lock from the old console to put in the new. Was a long time ago so I do not remember the details. I remember a lot of screws and clips. Since this was a 996 we had to figure out the spring and stay for the lid, but a Boxster does not have this.

[CJ_Boxster]

Dear All,

Seasons greetings to all, I've spent the last couple of days tidying up those annoying little things, such as replaced the sun visor hinges, replaced a snapped off wind deflector bracket, steam cleaned and shampood carpets etc etc.

Any way to the point the very last job I had to do was that I had a small tear in the leather part of my Tequipment handbrake, being fussy I decided that a bit of superglue and then a rub over with shoe polish would cure it. The fatal mistake was I took the superglue pot into the car and rested it on the console, I'm sure you all know what is coming next - YES I did knock it over and spilled superglue all over the console.

I have managed to source a second-hand item, and have worked out how to remove the old one, However the 2 items I need to swap from the old to the new are the storage lid and the lock, does anyone have any tips or a link to a procedure for doing this.

Many thanks

Nik

Yes screws under the rubber mate. under the ash tray, under the shift boot and also one more screw... pull up on the coin holder and once removed, you will see a screw under that.

Edited December 29, 2006 by CJ_Boxster

[nik]

Dear All,

Seasons greetings to all, I've spent the last couple of days tidying up those annoying little things, such as replaced the sun visor hinges, replaced a snapped off wind deflector bracket, steam cleaned and shampood carpets etc etc.

Any way to the point the very last job I had to do was that I had a small tear in the leather part of my Tequipment handbrake, being fussy I decided that a bit of superglue and then a rub over with shoe polish would cure it. The fatal mistake was I took the superglue pot into the car and rested it on the console, I'm sure you all know what is coming next - YES I did knock it over and spilled superglue all over the console.

I have managed to source a second-hand item, and have worked out how to remove the old one, However the 2 items I need to swap from the old to the new are the storage lid and the lock, does anyone have any tips or a link to a procedure for doing this.

Many thanks

Nik

Yes screws under the rubber mate. under the ash tray, under the shift boot and also one more screw... pull up on the coin holder and once removed, you will see a screw under that.

Thanks guys, I found them all and fitted the new one today, only took 30 minutes, pics below, no more glue for me.

[CJ_Boxster]

Save that center console. on a free weekend, you can go buy a can of pretty spray paint, fine sand paper and clear coat spray paint and have yourself a really nice center console.

Picture below took me only the last half of one weekday to complete, removal, prep, sand, paint, paint, sand, paint, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation.

Edited December 29, 2006 by CJ_Boxster

[djomlas]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

[Chris_in_NH]

The fatal mistake was I took the superglue pot into the car and rested it on the console, I'm sure you all know what is coming next - YES I did knock it over and spilled superglue all over the console.

get yourself some of this...

http://www.rcplanet.com/1_oz_z7_debonder_95621_prd1.htm

[CJ_Boxster]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

I dont remember at all, it wasnt the finest stuff pepboys sells but i think the packaging said that for sanding primer... i sand the base coat anyway.... I would buy the variety pack if i were to do it again. The Steps are "removal, prep(wipe down), sand, Wipe Down, primer, primer, sand, primer, paint, Sand, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation"

Edited January 2, 2007 by CJ_Boxster

[John V]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

I dont remember at all, it wasnt the finest stuff pepboys sells but i think the packaging said that for sanding primer... i sand the base coat anyway.... I would buy the variety pack if i were to do it again. The Steps are "removal, prep(wipe down), sand, Wipe Down, primer, primer, sand, primer, paint, Sand, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation"

I would advise anybody wanting to paint their console to let it dry at least 24 hours before any sanding. The paint will not have even fully cured after 24 hours but it is good enough to sand. If you sand too quickly after painting the whole job will be ruined. With metallic colors you can sand the metal flake right off if you are not careful because it tends to float to the surface.

I did not sand the base coat of my console at all. I used very light coats up until the last coat of color which I left glossy and let dry overnight before clearing.

I used 400 grit wet paper to remove the factory finish down to the plastic, 800 grit to smooth the plastic, 800 grit after the high-build primer, and 1500 grit to sand the clear before buffing.

[CJ_Boxster]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

I dont remember at all, it wasnt the finest stuff pepboys sells but i think the packaging said that for sanding primer... i sand the base coat anyway.... I would buy the variety pack if i were to do it again. The Steps are "removal, prep(wipe down), sand, Wipe Down, primer, primer, sand, primer, paint, Sand, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation"

I would advise anybody wanting to paint their console to let it dry at least 24 hours before any sanding. The paint will not have even fully cured after 24 hours but it is good enough to sand. If you sand too quickly after painting the whole job will be ruined. With metallic colors you can sand the metal flake right off if you are not careful because it tends to float to the surface.

I did not sand the base coat of my console at all. I used very light coats up until the last coat of color which I left glossy and let dry overnight before clearing.

I used 400 grit wet paper to remove the factory finish down to the plastic, 800 grit to smooth the plastic, 800 grit after the high-build primer, and 1500 grit to sand the clear before buffing.

The reason i sand the primer once and the base once was to only sand off excess and allow little deposits to settle in the pits that the plastic originally has. I pretty sure its ok to sand a single coat of primer or paint after about 15-20 minutes on a low humidity day

[John V]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

I dont remember at all, it wasnt the finest stuff pepboys sells but i think the packaging said that for sanding primer... i sand the base coat anyway.... I would buy the variety pack if i were to do it again. The Steps are "removal, prep(wipe down), sand, Wipe Down, primer, primer, sand, primer, paint, Sand, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation"

I would advise anybody wanting to paint their console to let it dry at least 24 hours before any sanding. The paint will not have even fully cured after 24 hours but it is good enough to sand. If you sand too quickly after painting the whole job will be ruined. With metallic colors you can sand the metal flake right off if you are not careful because it tends to float to the surface.

I did not sand the base coat of my console at all. I used very light coats up until the last coat of color which I left glossy and let dry overnight before clearing.

I used 400 grit wet paper to remove the factory finish down to the plastic, 800 grit to smooth the plastic, 800 grit after the high-build primer, and 1500 grit to sand the clear before buffing.

The reason i sand the primer once and the base once was to only sand off excess and allow little deposits to settle in the pits that the plastic originally has. I pretty sure its ok to sand a single coat of primer or paint after about 15-20 minutes on a low humidity day

The pits are a big problem. The stock finish settles in there and part of the problem with the original finish is that it isn't well bonded to the plastic, so it flakes off due to age, UV, sweat, sunscreen, whatever. I would never want to paint over that stuff primarily for that reason. Sand, sand, sand until all those pits are gone, then sand with the 800.

You MAY be able to get away with sanding after a half hour, but I would not risk it. Let the paint cure 24 hours (longer if you can wait) and the end result will be much more consistent.

Edited January 2, 2007 by John V

[CJ_Boxster]

what exact sandpaper did you use and steps if you dont mind

I dont remember at all, it wasnt the finest stuff pepboys sells but i think the packaging said that for sanding primer... i sand the base coat anyway.... I would buy the variety pack if i were to do it again. The Steps are "removal, prep(wipe down), sand, Wipe Down, primer, primer, sand, primer, paint, Sand, paint, paint, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat and reinstallation"

I would advise anybody wanting to paint their console to let it dry at least 24 hours before any sanding. The paint will not have even fully cured after 24 hours but it is good enough to sand. If you sand too quickly after painting the whole job will be ruined. With metallic colors you can sand the metal flake right off if you are not careful because it tends to float to the surface.

I did not sand the base coat of my console at all. I used very light coats up until the last coat of color which I left glossy and let dry overnight before clearing.

I used 400 grit wet paper to remove the factory finish down to the plastic, 800 grit to smooth the plastic, 800 grit after the high-build primer, and 1500 grit to sand the clear before buffing.

The reason i sand the primer once and the base once was to only sand off excess and allow little deposits to settle in the pits that the plastic originally has. I pretty sure its ok to sand a single coat of primer or paint after about 15-20 minutes on a low humidity day

The pits are a big problem. The stock finish settles in there and part of the problem with the original finish is that it isn't well bonded to the plastic, so it flakes off due to age, UV, sweat, sunscreen, whatever. I would never want to paint over that stuff primarily for that reason. Sand, sand, sand until all those pits are gone, then sand with the 800.

You MAY be able to get away with sanding after a half hour, but I would not risk it. Let the paint cure 24 hours (longer if you can wait) and the end result will be much more consistent.

Well i shouldnt have anything to worry about since 1) it wasnt flaking when i painted it. and 2) its painted over and therefor protected from the elements and shouldnt age anymore from the original surface area anymore.

[John V]

Well i shouldnt have anything to worry about since 1) it wasnt flaking when i painted it. and 2) its painted over and therefor protected from the elements and shouldnt age anymore from the original surface area anymore.

Maybe, maybe not. Mine wasn't flaking either, but my first couple trials of painting showed that the stock finish does not play nicely with other paint and primer. It was not a durable finish. Yours may very well be different, but I think it's a "better safe to remove it than sorry you didn't" scenario.