Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Split Rim Screws


Recommended Posts

I have the Porsche split rim wheel, with the torx screws that hole the split rim to the spokes. Does anyone know the torque to tighten these back up too.

Also, are there any special procedure you need to follow with these? (Removing and re-fitting)

Many thanks

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would pay a wheel refinishing shop to do this for you, re-torquing incorrectly can lead to wheel bends or worse, improper use of loctite can also lead to worse... worse being the wheel separates while driving and you crash

it's a "simple" process sure, but doing it a little wrong can be catastrauphic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, take it to a shop to torque those, im sure they will charge you jsut a few bux.

i would want to feel safe driving around knowing that they are torqued to specs.

Edited by djomlas
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back in the mid 80's I used to rebuild BBS race wheels. We used 144 inch/pounds torque and only with new bolts.

I've never worked on a road wheel, but we always replaced the seal ring/o-ring between the halves.

BBS has an office in Braselton GA that can answer questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there is something about this on Boxa.net so you might want to have a search. 23-25Nm iirc. There is also something about the installation sequence, I would imagine 12 o'clock screw then 6, then 3, then 9 and so on.

I've also heard one story about someone who bust one of the screws trying to get them out so you might want to use some penetrating oil, and find a source of spares just in case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.