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window won't drop 1/2 inches


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Could everyone help me with this problem??.

When I open the door the window won't drop 1/2 inches. So it stuck with the frame top, sound like "crack". I read from other forum, it says regulator problem. Is that correct? Does anyone have any thoughts?

Thank you...

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Could everyone help me with this problem??.

When I open the door the window won't drop 1/2 inches. So it stuck with the frame top, sound like "crack". I read from other forum, it says regulator problem. Is that correct? Does anyone have any thoughts?

Thank you...

f laurens:

Do you get the same result if you pull on the outside door handle or if you pull on the inside door handle (i.e., the window will not drop the requisite 1/2 inch)?

If that is the case, then it is most probably the window regulator and it must be replaced.

This has been dealt with here before, so here is a link to a thread that you should read to get familiar with the problem and its solution:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=1schoir

If you decide to DIY, there is also a link to a procedure that describes all of the steps involved in removing the door panel for access. If you need that link, let me know and I will find it for you.

Regards, Maurice.

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Thanks a lot Maurice, I'll buy the regulator and try to install by myself. Could you send me the link? Thanks again. :)

Here are links to two very helpful procedures, with lots of photos and instructions:

One for door paner removal only:

http://www.ecoutez.net/boxster/door-panel-removal/

And this next one for door panel removal and for replacement of window regulator, with part numbers:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

Good luck, and please let us know how you make out, or if you discover anything new in doing the installation.

Regards, Maurice.

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Yea, Thank you for everything..

Now, I'm waiting for the regulator. I just order it yesterday, I hope is coming soon.

I'll let you know if I already install it. (I'll go to car shop to install that regulator, it's to difficult for me to do it my self:))

Thanks again!!

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  • 1 month later...

Along the same line, when I open the door the window drops down the 13mm, however, as soon as I let go of the door handle (inside or outside) the window goes back up. Took it to the dealer and mechanic hooked it up to machine, and said that the problem is in the door latch. The door is telling the window it is closed when in fact it's open. The part is ~$400 and labor about the same. Anyone out there have a similar problem? Would like to try to dim, if anyone has fixed their own, would appreciate any info. Where to buy parts, how to do, things not to do. Thanks,

Joe

Edited by cayvman
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Along the same line, when I open the door the window drops down the 13mm, however, as soon as I let go of the door handle (inside or outside) the window goes back up. Took it to the dealer and mechanic hooked it up to machine, and said that the problem is in the door latch. The door is telling the window it is closed when in fact it's open. The part is ~$400 and labor about the same. Anyone out there have a similar problem? Would like to try to dim, if anyone has fixed their own, would appreciate any info. Where to buy parts, how to do, things not to do. Thanks,

Joe

Joe:

According to the symptoms you describe (i.e., window drops but goes back up as soon as you let go of the door handle), the problem is indeed in the door latch.

As far as a DIY, if you have any mechanical ability or experience, the most difficult part is removing the door panel. There are excellent instructions on how to remove the door panel in the links above, so that it is not too difficult at all.

As far as the actual cause, I believe it is one of the three microswitches that are located inside the door. There is one located just behind the outer door handle, one that is actuated by the inner door handle and the third one is inside or on the door latch mechanism. Sometimes the wires to the door latch mechanism get loose and all that is needed is to put them back on snugly. I don't have the part number for the door latch mechanism microswitch and don't know if it is sold separately. Call Sunset Imports (board sponsor in link at the top of these pages) and ask if it is sold separately.

But first, I would take apart the door panel and see if you could get lucky with a loose wire.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the quick reply. I like to think that I'm mechanically inclined. Will call Sunset and see what they have to say about selling the microswitches only. According to Porsche service rep and mechanic (taken with a grain of salt), you have to replace the entire latch mechanism.

Thanks again,

Joe

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Maurice,

Thanks for the quick reply. I like to think that I'm mechanically inclined. Will call Sunset and see what they have to say about selling the microswitches only. According to Porsche service rep and mechanic (taken with a grain of salt), you have to replace the entire latch mechanism.

Thanks again,

Joe

Joe:

If you call Sunset, ask for Jeff. He is very knowledgeable and has always been patient and helpful with my parts requests.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 months later...
Maurice,

Thanks for the quick reply. I like to think that I'm mechanically inclined. Will call Sunset and see what they have to say about selling the microswitches only. According to Porsche service rep and mechanic (taken with a grain of salt), you have to replace the entire latch mechanism.

Thanks again,

Joe

Joe:

If you call Sunset, ask for Jeff. He is very knowledgeable and has always been patient and helpful with my parts requests.

Regards, Maurice.

Finally got around to removing the door panel and didn't notice any loose wires. So much for being lucky. However, I have an update on the situation. Last time I posted the window would go down the requisite ~13mm, when I activated either the outside or inside door handle but would immediately go back up upon releasing the handle. Now it doesn't go down, I can hear the switches activating, but the window doesn't move, otherwise the window is still functioning. Going up and down when I activate the window switch.

Appreciate any and all experiences with this.

Thanks,

Joe

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Finally got around to removing the door panel and didn't notice any loose wires. So much for being lucky. However, I have an update on the situation. Last time I posted the window would go down the requisite ~13mm, when I activated either the outside or inside door handle but would immediately go back up upon releasing the handle. Now it doesn't go down, I can hear the switches activating, but the window doesn't move, otherwise the window is still functioning. Going up and down when I activate the window switch.

Appreciate any and all experiences with this.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe:

From your most recent symptoms, there is the possibility that your window regulator may also need replacing. What you describe here (..."hear the switches activating, but the window doesn't move...otherwise the window is still functioning...), the window regulator cable may have frayed or stretched.

Just be sure to inspect the overal length of the cable routing before you put the door panel back on.

Regards, Maurice.

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Finally got around to removing the door panel and didn't notice any loose wires. So much for being lucky. However, I have an update on the situation. Last time I posted the window would go down the requisite ~13mm, when I activated either the outside or inside door handle but would immediately go back up upon releasing the handle. Now it doesn't go down, I can hear the switches activating, but the window doesn't move, otherwise the window is still functioning. Going up and down when I activate the window switch.

Appreciate any and all experiences with this.

Thanks,

Joe

Joe:

From your most recent symptoms, there is the possibility that your window regulator may also need replacing. What you describe here (..."hear the switches activating, but the window doesn't move...otherwise the window is still functioning...), the window regulator cable may have frayed or stretched.

Just be sure to inspect the overal length of the cable routing before you put the door panel back on.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Thanks for the heads up. Can you please expand on what you mean by "overall length of the cable routing" and how to do so? It's late and too lazy to check the Bentley.

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Maurice,

Thanks for the heads up. Can you please expand on what you mean by "overall length of the cable routing" and how to do so? It's late and too lazy to check the Bentley.

Cayvman:

The easiest way to check whether the total length of the cable has exceeded its original length (i.e., "stretched") is to observe cable at the moment that you press the button to change the direction of travel of the window.

So, when the window has just gone up (even partially), then when you press the button to make the window go down, see if there is a slackening and then tightening of the cable before the window starts to actually move down. The same applies when switching from down to up.

If there is any kind of delay between the time that you press the button and the time that the window starts to move, you've got a stretched cable, or a frayed cable, or a part has worn inside where the end of the cable is anchored to the plastic spool.

This is the reason why the symptom you described (of hearing the switches activating, but no movement of the window and the window otherwise works) sounds like it may be a stretched cable. When you pull up on the door handle (inner or outer), the reason you don't get that magic 1/2 inch drop is because the cable is busy "tightening up" and doesn't actually move the window.

Hope that clears it up, because it wouldn't be fun to replace the lock/latch mechanism and then still not have a properly retracting window.

Regards, Maurice.

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If there is any kind of delay between the time that you press the button and the time that the window starts to move, you've got a stretched cable, or a frayed cable, or a part has worn inside where the end of the cable is anchored to the plastic spool.

I had the same problem with my window regulator. The reason that slack is created in the cable is because of the inadequate blue plastic piece that breaks! From the outside this piece looks like it is about a 1/2 inch long and holds the cable sheath in place. In actuality, this piece has a tube piece that extends down the spring and into the pulley. What happens is the tube piece breaks off and slides into the pulley (possibly causing a grinding noise and start the fraying of your cable) and the cable sheath slips through the hole of the plastic piece and thus creates the slack in the cable. I actually took my regulator apart and reattached the plastic pieces using marinetex and it's as good as new. Probably better because the marinetex is stronger than plastic so I don't expect it to break again!

post-30553-1213338214.jpg

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I just bought my Boxster a month ago or so. I seem to be having a similiar problem. When I lift up on the door handle, the window moves very slightly, but not enough to drop it the 1/2 inch like the passenger door. Plus, when I put the window down all the way, I hear clunking noises about halfway down. Other than that, it works fine. Could it be just the cable stretching and not the microswitches/regulator? Would just an adjustment be necessary?

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Maurice and Ross, thanks for the info.

Ross, in your picture is that a before pix?

Got the latch and plan on installing today. Will look at the cable as to contributing to the latest symptom.

Will post my results. Thanks again.

Joe

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I just bought my Boxster a month ago or so. I seem to be having a similiar problem. When I lift up on the door handle, the window moves very slightly, but not enough to drop it the 1/2 inch like the passenger door. Plus, when I put the window down all the way, I hear clunking noises about halfway down. Other than that, it works fine. Could it be just the cable stretching and not the microswitches/regulator? Would just an adjustment be necessary?

Brewrby:

Look at post #8 in this thread. Unless you have a similar symptom, i.e., if the window goes back up when you let go of the door handle when the door is NOT closed, then your problem lies in the window regulator itself.

An adjustment will not fix the problem. If, after opening up the door panel, you determine that the blue plastic piece has broken apart, as described by ROSS1 in the post above, and you can glue it back together with something strong enough (ROSS1 used "Marinetex") then you might have a shot at fixing it that way. Otherwise, a new regulator is in order.

Regards, Maurice.

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Maurice and Ross, thanks for the info.

Ross, in your picture is that a before pix?

Got the latch and plan on installing today. Will look at the cable as to contributing to the latest symptom.

Will post my results. Thanks again.

Joe

I got that picture off an already posted DIY for the window regulator! I didn't have a camera with me when I was doing the repair, so I don't have any pictures. Based on what I know, that picture is of a broken plastic piece. The cable is loose because they have disassemble the regulator. If you could zoom in you would see that the tube part of the plastic is not attached to the bigger piece any more. It is probably inside the pulley housing. The tube acts as a guide as the spring compresses and uncompresses. Once the tube breaks off, the cable slips through the plastic piece and creates the slack that prevents your window from going down. If you are not mechanical, I would suggest just getting a new regulator! The hardest part of the repair was putting the cabling back together. You also don't want to use just a simple 2 part epoxy. I suggest the marinetex that I used. It's tough!! You can get it at your local boat shop or maybe even Walmart. It's used to repair boat hulls.

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Any idea how to separate the door handle connecting piece from the door latch? Having the darndest time. I know it's probably something very simple but can't seem to solve the puzzle.

Anyone have experience with this?

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Thanks. Figured it out after re re re reading the bentley.

Should the drop down feature work before putting the whole door back together?

Cause it doesn't. It doesn't even activate the microswitches. Guess I'll find out the hard way.

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