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pashe

Broken Boxster 987 roof -:(

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Hey folks

I have a 2005 987 Bosxter 2.7. About a month ago I went to open the convertible roof (first sunny day of the year in Ireland!) and as it opened up and the roof was retracted about half way I heard a sickening snap. Uh-oh. The roof had been closed all winter. The roof retracted ok right then, but when I went to put the roof back up the "clam shell" moved up ok but the roof itself would not come up. Yikes! I was able to lift up the roof (while the clamshell was in the upright position) and I was able to secure the roof manually. Now when I try to open the roof the clamshell opens and closes without moving the roof at all. If i try to move the roof back manually it feels like there is some resistance so I have not done this, I do not want to do any more damage!!!!

Having trawled the internet for days I have found this fantastic forum which seems to have some great posts about other problems on 986 roofs, but nothing that seems quite like this. What has happened is that two rods at each side that seem to allow the convertible motor to move back the roof have snapped. These rods have white plastic ball shapes on top.

IMG_4336.jpg

IMG_4337.jpg

The quality of the pics aren't great but I hope they go someway towards explaining the problem. I am fearful of a multi thousand euro bill if i go to my Porsche dealer (who is also a 250km drive away!!)

If anyone knows anymore or could offer some suggestions for this problem I would be so grateful.

Thanks in advance

P.

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This can also happen on a 986.

For whatever reason the white plastic ball joint on the end of the metal push rod broke. Porsche does not sell just the plastic joint - the push rod and joint are a single part. You can get one at your OPC. Or, there is a guy who sells aftermarket joints. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...595622&rd=1

If you buy just the joints from the ebay guy then make sure the rod is not bent - compare it to the other side. Yours looks a little tweaked, but it could be due to the angle of the picture.

The picture show the 987 rod at the top and the 986 rod on the bottom. The "good" news is that the 987 rod cost less than the 986 rod.

post-4-1210276956_thumb.jpg

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Thanks so much Tool Pants! I have emailed the Ebay guy to see if he can supply the rod and white ball piece, it looks like the rod is a little bent out of shape so I guess I better get the part.

I guess I would still be a little worried about why it broke - I wonder if it is possible that the roof shrunk over winter and now it's all out of whack? This would be odd because although I usually don't garage the car we have very mild winters here in Ireland, very rarely even 0 degrees Celsius.....

Has anyone got any experience of fitting these rods - or a walkthrough I might be able to follow?

Many thanks once again - it's a real relief just to know what has been broken!!

P

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He just sells the joints, which he has made.

If your clamshell moves up and down and is level then your timing should be ok and all you will need to do is replace the rod/joint. If the rod is not bent then you can just unscrew the broken joint and screw on a new joint. Count the number of turns.

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The white ball joint will break when the central open/close handle is not fully released and the hook stays partial in the latch.

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That is what I would have said, but he said the roof was down 1/2 of the way when he heard the snap. But maybe the roof had to come up a bit before the joint finally just let go.

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Thanks RFM but the latch was definitely fully released when the roof was being retracted. Searching around through some other posts though I noticed a post that references a grey rope/thread hanging out of the side of the roof, this was happening with my roof before, I did not take too much notice of it though. Maybe that had something to do with why the while ball snapped.

Do you guys know if it is difficult to fit this joint? Does the clam shell have to be completely removed?

Thanks again for the help.

P

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The clam shell can stay in place, just remove the bold with the alenkey and give attention on the spacers. The steel cables besides the hood are to strain the hood when closed, take care that the cables go's through the holes in the textile flaps besides the hood before fixation, otherwise the water drain on the back end of the textile will come off the hooks.

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Hey Guys

Glad to report a successful resolution to this. I did order the plastic pieces from the Ebay chap above and got a local mechanic to fit them, he had in done in 10 minutes.

Thanks for the help!

P

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I just bought a used 05 987 about a month ago and after opening it a few times, each time i looked up and noticed one side comes up first so i read this forum and looked inside after opening half way... found that one of the white plastic caps is broken.... the car is still covered under factory warrenty.... is this replacement consider to be under warranty?

Thanks

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Hi SGT

I'm not sure if this is covered under warranty but you should get it checked out ASAP...with only one piece the other could break and then you will not be able to operate your roof. Which really sucks in summer....

If you do not live close to a Porsche main dealer (like me) it may be easier to order the plastic part, and have a

mechanic fit it for you.

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Warranty covers it. I bought an '05 in December '08 and first time dropping the top this spring both rod ends snapped. Car is still under warranty and dealer repaired free of charge.

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2005 Boxster and 2 weeks out of warranty and broke both white plastic tips. ordering new ones off of ebay. Going to thread new plastic tips onto Joint rod as described abovebroken boxster 987 roof. Do you raise or lower the top until plastic tips line up with ball they connect to or is there a trick to this ?

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For whatever reason the white plastic ball joint on the end of the metal push rod broke. Porsche does not sell just the plastic joint - the push rod and joint are a single part. You can get one at your OPC. Or, there is a guy who sells aftermarket joints. http://cgi.ebay.com/...P...595622&rd=1

That auction is long closed, and you can't see any detail. You don't happen to have the seller's name or any contact information, do you? I couldn't find anything similar by searching eBay.

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For whatever reason the white plastic ball joint on the end of the metal push rod broke. Porsche does not sell just the plastic joint - the push rod and joint are a single part. You can get one at your OPC. Or, there is a guy who sells aftermarket joints. http://cgi.ebay.com/...P...595622&rd=1

That auction is long closed, and you can't see any detail. You don't happen to have the seller's name or any contact information, do you? I couldn't find anything similar by searching eBay.

PM Sent with contact info for that seller.

Regards, Maurice.

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Same thing happened to me on my 1998 986 2.5

I bought new push rods from Porsche (whole assembly) and fitted them - they immediately broke again - happened when I opened the rood fully just as the clamshell was almost shut then snap!

I've ordered just the plastic bits from ebay, but wondered if I've got a bigger problem?

I had the top replaced a couple of years ago with a top with the glass window - would this have anything to do with it?

Many thanks

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Same thing happened to me on my 1998 986 2.5

I bought new push rods from Porsche (whole assembly) and fitted them - they immediately broke again - happened when I opened the rood fully just as the clamshell was almost shut then snap!

I've ordered just the plastic bits from ebay, but wondered if I've got a bigger problem?

I had the top replaced a couple of years ago with a top with the glass window - would this have anything to do with it?

Many thanks

You didn't give any details as to how they broke the first time, and whether the ones that broke the first time were red or white plastic ball cups. That might provide more insight into the cause.

From your description of how they broke the second time, it's possible that the length of the front pushrods (the ones that terminate in the plastic ball cups) may be adjusted to an overall length that is too short. Note that the overall length of those pushrods also affects how the leading edge of the top mates up with the horizontal top edge of the windshield frame, but that it is not a linear progression. Your length may be on the "wrong side" of that non-linear progression.

Regards, Maurice.

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Same thing happened to me on my 1998 986 2.5

I bought new push rods from Porsche (whole assembly) and fitted them - they immediately broke again - happened when I opened the rood fully just as the clamshell was almost shut then snap!

I've ordered just the plastic bits from ebay, but wondered if I've got a bigger problem?

I had the top replaced a couple of years ago with a top with the glass window - would this have anything to do with it?

Many thanks

You didn't give any details as to how they broke the first time, and whether the ones that broke the first time were red or white plastic ball cups. That might provide more insight into the cause.

From your description of how they broke the second time, it's possible that the length of the front pushrods (the ones that terminate in the plastic ball cups) may be adjusted to an overall length that is too short. Note that the overall length of those pushrods also affects how the leading edge of the top mates up with the horizontal top edge of the windshield frame, but that it is not a linear progression. Your length may be on the "wrong side" of that non-linear progression.

Regards, Maurice.

The first time, one side made a snapping noise as I was closing the roof - I then noticed that the roof went up at an angle, but did nothing about it at the time. Then the other one went after about a month. They were the red caps. When I put the new ones on I did notice that I couldn't fasten the roof, but it was getting dark so I figured I'd finish it the next day - I'm guessing as the lip of the roof didn't meet that I didn't have the push rods extended enough - didn't realize that could snap them again though.

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The first time, one side made a snapping noise as I was closing the roof - I then noticed that the roof went up at an angle, but did nothing about it at the time. Then the other one went after about a month. They were the red caps. When I put the new ones on I did notice that I couldn't fasten the roof, but it was getting dark so I figured I'd finish it the next day - I'm guessing as the lip of the roof didn't meet that I didn't have the push rods extended enough - didn't realize that could snap them again though.

This added info makes a little more sense. The canvas portion of the top will operate with just one of the pushrods/plastic ball cups intact and attached, but one side will lag behind on the way up and lurch forward on the way down.

The red plastic ball cups are more prone to getting brittle with age, so in your case it may just have been a question of time and use causing the failure.

I would say it is likely that the second set of ball cups broke apart because the overall length of the pushrods was too short.

If you still have your old original pushrods, you should inspect them as you may be able to see tell-tale marks on the threaded part of the pushrod where the original red plastic ball cups were originally situated. If that is the case, count the number of threads from the tell-tale mark to the end of the threaded portion of the original pushrod and duplicate it by turning the new ball cups onto your new pushrods to the same "depth".

One word of caution. If you were operating the top with one of the pushrods broken, it is very likely that the dangling pushrod ripped or tore your foam drain tray. In that case, you are susceptible to getting water intrusion into the cabin when it rains or you are washing the car. The water will inevitably end up finding its way to your central alarm control unit under the driver's seat and that will be a big $$ repair which may also leave you stranded.

Pull up the carpet behind the seats, where it meets the carpet at the base of the rear firewall to inspect for any moisture. That foam padding can absorb A LOT of water. You can repair the drain tray with black urethane sealant (Permatex makes a good one for that purpose) or replace the drain tray if it is beyond repair.

Regards, Maurice.

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The first time, one side made a snapping noise as I was closing the roof - I then noticed that the roof went up at an angle, but did nothing about it at the time. Then the other one went after about a month. They were the red caps. When I put the new ones on I did notice that I couldn't fasten the roof, but it was getting dark so I figured I'd finish it the next day - I'm guessing as the lip of the roof didn't meet that I didn't have the push rods extended enough - didn't realize that could snap them again though.

This added info makes a little more sense. The canvas portion of the top will operate with just one of the pushrods/plastic ball cups intact and attached, but one side will lag behind on the way up and lurch forward on the way down.

The red plastic ball cups are more prone to getting brittle with age, so in your case it may just have been a question of time and use causing the failure.

I would say it is likely that the second set of ball cups broke apart because the overall length of the pushrods was too short.

If you still have your old original pushrods, you should inspect them as you may be able to see tell-tale marks on the threaded part of the pushrod where the original red plastic ball cups were originally situated. If that is the case, count the number of threads from the tell-tale mark to the end of the threaded portion of the original pushrod and duplicate it by turning the new ball cups onto your new pushrods to the same "depth".

One word of caution. If you were operating the top with one of the pushrods broken, it is very likely that the dangling pushrod ripped or tore your foam drain tray. In that case, you are susceptible to getting water intrusion into the cabin when it rains or you are washing the car. The water will inevitably end up finding its way to your central alarm control unit under the driver's seat and that will be a big $ repair which may also leave you stranded.

Pull up the carpet behind the seats, where it meets the carpet at the base of the rear firewall to inspect for any moisture. That foam padding can absorb A LOT of water. You can repair the drain tray with black urethane sealant (Permatex makes a good one for that purpose) or replace the drain tray if it is beyond repair.

Regards, Maurice.

Many thanks - you were right about the foam being ripped - I'll get some sealant on it asap!

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Many thanks - you were right about the foam being ripped - I'll get some sealant on it asap!

Glad that you caught it before any damage was done.

The black silicone I have used with excellent results is Permatex brand "Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant", item # 81158, 3 oz tube.

It's available at stores such as Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts, etc.

It is easy to use and the repair does not stick out like a sore thumb.

Regards, Maurice.

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Hi Maurice,

I have the same problem, could you please forward the infor of the PM selling the push rod ends? Thanks much.

-- Bob

Bob:

PM sent.

Regards, Maurice.

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I had a similar problem with my Boxter and I got a hold of many white plastic cup ball joint separate from the push rod. I am selling them on ebay for much cheaper than replacing the whole rod. I hope this helps!

This is the web address: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260722227413&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

Edited by vanguard1991

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Gents... I had the "pleasure" of changing out the two levers on my 987. When I was recovering from some surgery, one of my neighbors thought he would do me a favor and start up my car. It was a sunny day here in Florida so he decided to grab a few rays and listen to a few tunes. Unfortunately for me, he did not realize that the top was electric. He released the "Press Here" button, grabbed the front of the newly freed top and pushed like heck. It went down sort of and he apparently realized the error of his ways so he pulled the top back up and figured that I would be none the wiser...

I ordered the parts from my dealer and installed them in less than 30 minutes. It is literally a "snap" with a couple of bolts. Really no big deal to do it yourself. Just put the top into the "service position", look at the existing rods and carefully remove the bolts attached to the car frame then lift the broken levers out. Replacing is the reverse but make sure that the new levers are sized exactly the same as the broken ones using the adjustment bolt on the lever. Use a large flathead screwdriver to pop the plastic caps into place.

Edited by mreynol5

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