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Car won't start

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Here is a wierd problem. I was driving and came to a stop sign. The car simply turned off and all lights lit, like when you key on. Tried to start it, it starts, runs for 2 seconds and sputters out If trying to rev, dies immediately.

It obviously has gas and sprak, as it starts.

Turbo hoses and vacuum hoses are all tight.

Fuses are all OK.

Not sure where else to look.

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fuel pump(s)?

try taking out fuel pump fuse and cranking car for 5-10 seconds replace fuel pump fuel you might have flooded it as this sometimes happens especially if you stalled it and the car was not warm

just an idea sometimes simple things ... :lightbulb:

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HI. If I wiggle the key, nothing happens.

I also pulled a fuel line and applied current to the pump to dump some fuel out unto a coke bottle, and that ran fine.

The car was warm. I had washed it hours before, and had driven to and from several places since then.

Let me know what you guys think.

If It matters, I had replaced the regulator on the alternator the night before, but had used the car a few times after that,

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How long did you run the fuel pump? The problem with mine was a ruptured hose inside the tank. The pump worked fine, but was pumping fuel back into the tank...so if there was fuel in the pump, it would have worked as you found. Have you tested the battery, perhaps there is not enough juice to start it and the alternator fix didn't work. Get the codes read anyway.

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You have to check the fuel flow and the pressure as well. Looks like there is no pressure enough, let check the pressure. Good chance that the pump is toast.

Hi. I replaced the pump back in July of last year, or thereabouts.

What should the pressure be at key-on? Cannot check with the car started, because it will not stay running.

I did try pricking the Schraeder valve and fuel flowed out, but did not squirt out. Seems like low pressure, but could be because it used up most of the line trying to run?

I would like to check what was suggested above inside the fuel tank, but want to know if that would require a level-sender recalibration.

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Not sure if this is what you want, but here are the instructions for calibrating the fuel level sensor

Calibrating fuel level sensor system


· Calibration is necessary after replacement of the fuel tank, fuel level sensor or instrument cluster.

The fuel level sensor system need not be calibrated if the battery was disconnected or a plug

connection on the instrument cluster or fuel level sensor was removed. The values remain stored in

the instrument cluster.


· A range on remaining fuel of less than 15 km is not displayed in the instrument cluster.

1. Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery.

2. Remove cap over the fuel level sensor system.

3. Remove fuel level sensor. ’ Rep. Gr. 20 66 19; Removing and installing fuel pump.

4. Using a fuel extractor, completely drain the fuel tank through the fuel level sensor opening. Fuel extractor:

Refer to the Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 3 "Workshop Equipment".

5. −Make sure that the two recesses on the left and right−hand sides of the tank are emptied


6. Reinstall the fuel level sensor and, with "ignition off", fill the tank with −28 litres− of fuel.

7. Perform tank calibration with the Porsche System Tester 2:

· Select vehicle type (911 Carrera)

· Select control modules

· Select instrument cluster

· Select menu item "Tank calibration"

· Confirm calibration

8. The fuel level sensor system has now been calibrated.

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  • Moderators

If you use the same level sender, no recalibration is needed. There is also no recalibration needed if you replace the fuel pump. Let the engine run on the start motor for 10 seconds, with 4.0 - 4.5 Kg pressure the engine will run ( from the head )

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If you use the same level sender, no recalibration is needed. There is also no recalibration needed if you replace the fuel pump. Let the engine run on the start motor for 10 seconds, with 4.0 - 4.5 Kg pressure the engine will run ( from the head )

Thanks. That makes sense. Not sure why different senders or tanks use different calibrations, but it is nice to know i can pull the assembly out, disconnect it to look around, and even replace the pump without having to recalibrate. Gonna delve into this now

Did not understand about "Let the engine run on the start motor for 10 seconds, with 4.0 - 4.5 Kg pressure the engine will run ( from the head )?" I assume you mean let it crank for 10 seconds and measure fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve in the engine bay and if it is around that, then my problem lies elsewhere?

The thing is since the engine does start and then die, would it not use up what is in the line anyay?

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Actually, the only thing that was open, and that I knew would have it, as a local BMW dealer that opens until midnight (parts and service). They sell the exact same hose by the yard , as it is used in a 1995 3 series. Boght a yard (and cut the 6 inches I needed) and the clamps from them. Same exact hose, but says BMW on it ;)

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  • 5 months later...

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