Alumilook interior parts - painting possible?

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

Has anyone taken on trying to paint any of the interior parts themselves? I've seen numerous kits out there that just seem OUTRAGEOUS in price for pieces getting painted as simple as the vents etc. I'd like to add to some of the other "accented" silver / aluminum pieces that come stock on my vehicle, such as the door handles for example. Anyone know the paint you could use for this that would match it pretty good? Do you have to prep the pieces with primer before hand? I'd like to try and get as close to the "Tequipment" feel, without purchasing the costly tequipment replacement pieces. A nice DIY project for me.

In addition, I already have the 3-spoke Boxster S wheel on my car, it's all black though. I figured someone out there has to make those 3 aluminum trim pieces that can just stick on to those portions of the wheel, rather than buy a whole nother steering wheel for $750! Just curious if there's a more cost effective method.

Curious on the thoughts! Thanks!

[cbbepop]

Hey guys,

Has anyone taken on trying to paint any of the interior parts themselves? I've seen numerous kits out there that just seem OUTRAGEOUS in price for pieces getting painted as simple as the vents etc. I'd like to add to some of the other "accented" silver / aluminum pieces that come stock on my vehicle, such as the door handles for example. Anyone know the paint you could use for this that would match it pretty good? Do you have to prep the pieces with primer before hand? I'd like to try and get as close to the "Tequipment" feel, without purchasing the costly tequipment replacement pieces. A nice DIY project for me.

In addition, I already have the 3-spoke Boxster S wheel on my car, it's all black though. I figured someone out there has to make those 3 aluminum trim pieces that can just stick on to those portions of the wheel, rather than buy a whole nother steering wheel for $750! Just curious if there's a more cost effective method.

Curious on the thoughts! Thanks!

I painted the door lids silver alum. New ones at suncoast cost more than a dealership oil change...

Wasn't that hard

1.) Unhinged it - took it out

2.) Sanded it to get the coating off. Sandpaper at any autoshop

3.) Washed it dried it

4.) Painted with metalic silver spray paint , I simply chose a color that look nice to me *three coats* Spray in one direction and look to see if any bubbles formed

5.) finished up with clear gloss top coating spray paint *three coats*

6.) wait like a full day before reinstalling the lid, cause it was easier to take lid off then put on...you gotta jamm it in there against the door. If you attempt to put it back on too soon the "young" paint will get dammaged easily in the process.

[usaf-lt-g]

I painted the door lids silver alum. New ones at suncoast cost more than a dealership oil change...

Wasn't that hard

1.) Unhinged it - took it out

2.) Sanded it to get the coating off. Sandpaper at any autoshop

3.) Washed it dried it

4.) Painted with metalic silver spray paint , I simply chose a color that look nice to me *three coats* Spray in one direction and look to see if any bubbles formed

5.) finished up with clear gloss top coating spray paint *three coats*

6.) wait like a full day before reinstalling the lid, cause it was easier to take lid off then put on...you gotta jamm it in there against the door. If you attempt to put it back on too soon the "young" paint will get dammaged easily in the process.

Any pictures? Does it match well to the other metalic parts? I'm trying to get as close to the "tequipment" feel as possible.

[jmatta]

Pulled this off another site...been keeping it just in case.

Aluma Look is " ALU 03 EFFECT " trim etc.

Code is 4W9 and Dupont stock code is X1070

[usaf-lt-g]

Pulled this off another site...been keeping it just in case.

Aluma Look is " ALU 03 EFFECT " trim etc.

Code is 4W9 and Dupont stock code is X1070

You are the bomb :) Does anyone have pictures of all the "Aluminum" upgraded pieces you can buy from Porsche? The factory tequipment trim you can purchase that is. I want to match my stuff to it and a build a DIY guide on how to do it. I checked several sites and can't seem to find pictures of everything, just bits and pieces. If someone could post that would be EXTREMELY helpful! Thanks!

[usaf-lt-g]

As an FYI...

I called over to my local paint shop who carries Dupont and Spies, explained exactly what it was I was attempting to do etc. Essentially, the paint has to be "made" as it's a special paint. To do the entire interior to "tequipment" spec (not meaning paint EVERYTHING in the interior, just the pieces that would be painted by a tequipment upgrade) would probably be about 2qts. You also need a qt of reducer according to my paint company. For all that paint, I was quoted $249.02, which is pretty reasonable considering a "Left Vent" alone, is about $289. It's a bit pricy since the paint has a "metallic" in it, but granted, this is "quality" paint not "Autozone" paint ;)

So I think this will shake up to be a pretty good DIY project ;) Still could use pictures of what the "Stock" Tequipment looks like though if anyone has them.

[1schoir]

As an FYI...

I called over to my local paint shop who carries Dupont and Spies, explained exactly what it was I was attempting to do etc. Essentially, the paint has to be "made" as it's a special paint. To do the entire interior to "tequipment" spec (not meaning paint EVERYTHING in the interior, just the pieces that would be painted by a tequipment upgrade) would probably be about 2qts. You also need a qt of reducer according to my paint company. For all that paint, I was quoted $249.02, which is pretty reasonable considering a "Left Vent" alone, is about $289. It's a bit pricy since the paint has a "metallic" in it, but granted, this is "quality" paint not "Autozone" paint ;)

So I think this will shake up to be a pretty good DIY project ;) Still could use pictures of what the "Stock" Tequipment looks like though if anyone has them.

Two quarts sounds generous, but, better to have some left over than not enough to complete all of the parts. Dupont and Spies Hecker are excellent paints, but don't forget to get and add the hardener. It's the smallest proportion, but the most important if you are going to avoid nicks and tiny dents from your fingernails hitting the pieces over the years after they are installed.

Be sure to take some photos and share them with us. It should look rad!

Regards, Maurice.

[usaf-lt-g]

As an FYI...

I called over to my local paint shop who carries Dupont and Spies, explained exactly what it was I was attempting to do etc. Essentially, the paint has to be "made" as it's a special paint. To do the entire interior to "tequipment" spec (not meaning paint EVERYTHING in the interior, just the pieces that would be painted by a tequipment upgrade) would probably be about 2qts. You also need a qt of reducer according to my paint company. For all that paint, I was quoted $249.02, which is pretty reasonable considering a "Left Vent" alone, is about $289. It's a bit pricy since the paint has a "metallic" in it, but granted, this is "quality" paint not "Autozone" paint ;)

So I think this will shake up to be a pretty good DIY project ;) Still could use pictures of what the "Stock" Tequipment looks like though if anyone has them.

Two quarts sounds generous, but, better to have some left over than not enough to complete all of the parts. Dupont and Spies Hecker are excellent paints, but don't forget to get and add the hardener. It's the smallest proportion, but the most important if you are going to avoid nicks and tiny dents from your fingernails hitting the pieces over the years after they are installed.

Be sure to take some photos and share them with us. It should look rad!

Regards, Maurice.

Hmmm Hardener eh? Is there a specific code for this or is it pretty standard. I also placed another call on an airbrush as i'm not sure which type of airbrush would be best for this type of application. Any thoughts? I'll make sure to take pictures once I start the project. Still looking for those "tequipment" pictures though ;)

[londoner06]

usaf-lt-g,

Hello, Suncoast Porsche has all the 'alumilook' parts for sale. Pictures are kinda small but... My 996 already has the pocket lids and the tip knob but I'm really wanting the centre console. I'm willing to try the paint to match, I imagine several coats are needed plus a good clearcoat. It's gotta be strong enough to withstand scratches, etc. Keep posting your findings guy!

Alex

[1schoir]

Hmmm Hardener eh? Is there a specific code for this or is it pretty standard. I also placed another call on an airbrush as i'm not sure which type of airbrush would be best for this type of application. Any thoughts? I'll make sure to take pictures once I start the project. Still looking for those "tequipment" pictures though ;)

No specific code, it's standard with any of the modern urethane paints. Each manufacturer has their own line of hardeners. The hardener is an essential part of the paint package for durability and hardness. If you follow the formula that the manufacturer publishes for mixing the ingredients (paint/reducer/hardener) very carefully, you won't have any problems.

You can get excellent results with a Sharpe brand mini HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun for this type of work. Sharpe is a knock-off of much more expensive brands and gets very similar results.

As with any spray painting, the most crucial part is in the preparation of the surfaces to be painted. You should also get a solvent specifically made for the pre-cleaning of the surfaces that you must do immediately before painting. "Prep-Sol" or "Pre-Kleano" are two products from different manufacturers that will remove all traces of fingerprint oils, silicone, etc. and give you a surface ready for light sanding, tacking off with a tack cloth, and then spraying.

If you are meticulous, you can get professional results. Just don't be tempted to cut any corners.

Regards, Maurice.

[usaf-lt-g]

usaf-lt-g,

Hello, Suncoast Porsche has all the 'alumilook' parts for sale. Pictures are kinda small but... My 996 already has the pocket lids and the tip knob but I'm really wanting the centre console. I'm willing to try the paint to match, I imagine several coats are needed plus a good clearcoat. It's gotta be strong enough to withstand scratches, etc. Keep posting your findings guy!

Alex

I'm sure they are on sale, but still, I imagine the price of "one" piece such as the door lids would still end up costing more than the price of the paint. Keep in the mind the paint we are talking about is the actual genuine PORSCHE paint (the same paint Porsche uses to make the Alumi-look finish) not knock-off store bought paint. So painting it yourself using this paint, should give you the "exact" same result, for less money, as oppossed to purchasing it if you do it right. You won't need "several" coats or a clearcoat. Again, the paint is the same Porsche uses, has a metallic in it.

[usaf-lt-g]

No specific code, it's standard with any of the modern urethane paints. Each manufacturer has their own line of hardeners. The hardener is an essential part of the paint package for durability and hardness. If you follow the formula that the manufacturer publishes for mixing the ingredients (paint/reducer/hardener) very carefully, you won't have any problems.

You can get excellent results with a Sharpe brand mini HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun for this type of work. Sharpe is a knock-off of much more expensive brands and gets very similar results.

As with any spray painting, the most crucial part is in the preparation of the surfaces to be painted. You should also get a solvent specifically made for the pre-cleaning of the surfaces that you must do immediately before painting. "Prep-Sol" or "Pre-Kleano" are two products from different manufacturers that will remove all traces of fingerprint oils, silicone, etc. and give you a surface ready for light sanding, tacking off with a tack cloth, and then spraying.

If you are meticulous, you can get professional results. Just don't be tempted to cut any corners.

Regards, Maurice.

How about this one? http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?M=SH...4625&ref=GB

[1schoir]

How about this one? http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?M=SH...4625&ref=GB

Definitely a good gun for the job, and a great value too. The equivalent gun made by SATA (top of the line german gun) is about $400.

You'll get equivalent results with this Sharpe gun.

Regards, Maurice.

[londoner06]

Yeah usaf-lt-g, $859 for the console, side trim, ashtray, and ashtray surround! $400 for the pocket lids, pretty pricey stuff.

Alex

[usaf-lt-g]

Yeah usaf-lt-g, $859 for the console, side trim, ashtray, and ashtray surround! $400 for the pocket lids, pretty pricey stuff.

Alex

Lol, exactly why I just assume do the job myself ;) Whoever was able to find that paint code Porsche uses for the Aluminum look pieces was a pure genious. It was extremely difficult to find, but once I had the code and verified the paint manufacture Porsche uses for it I was golden. Once I get this gun, and all the elements necessary to prep the pieces and the mix, I'll make sure to write-up a detailed DIY as always and provide plenty of pictures.

Just another reason to DIY if you have the ability I always say ;) No thanks on paying those kind of prices Alex! ;)

[usaf-lt-g]

As with any spray painting, the most crucial part is in the preparation of the surfaces to be painted. You should also get a solvent specifically made for the pre-cleaning of the surfaces that you must do immediately before painting. "Prep-Sol" or "Pre-Kleano" are two products from different manufacturers that will remove all traces of fingerprint oils, silicone, etc. and give you a surface ready for light sanding, tacking off with a tack cloth, and then spraying.

If you are meticulous, you can get professional results. Just don't be tempted to cut any corners.

Regards, Maurice.

What grit sanding paper would you recommend for the light sanding prep? Thanks!

[1schoir]

As with any spray painting, the most crucial part is in the preparation of the surfaces to be painted. You should also get a solvent specifically made for the pre-cleaning of the surfaces that you must do immediately before painting. "Prep-Sol" or "Pre-Kleano" are two products from different manufacturers that will remove all traces of fingerprint oils, silicone, etc. and give you a surface ready for light sanding, tacking off with a tack cloth, and then spraying.

If you are meticulous, you can get professional results. Just don't be tempted to cut any corners.

Regards, Maurice.

What grit sanding paper would you recommend for the light sanding prep? Thanks!

Since the surfaces you are painting are relatively new, you can start out with 400 grit wet/dry and finish with 600 grit just before painting. Be sure to use a tack rag just before spraying to get any errant dust particles.

Again, the most important part is making sure that the surface is absolutely free of any contaminants (fingerprint oils, silicone, grease, etc.). If you leave any of those behind, you'll see what is called "fish eyes", which looks like a little pinhole sized pool around the spot. If you get one of those, the only solution is to either remove all the paint if you have just started spraying, or wait until the paint has cured, then clean it again with the Prep-sol or Pre-Kleano and just give it a very light scuffing with the 600 grit.

Also, make sure you "spank" the sandpaper so that no sandind residue stays on the sandpaper. That would cause a slight "gouge" on the surface.

One good way to insure you are always getting just sandpaper to surface contact, with no residue in between, is to use the wet-sanding method. I don't know if you have the inclination, but if you do, all you have to do is get some low pressure stream of water constantly running just above what you are sanding and the water will carry away the residue.

You can get great results with either method, but it does take time.

Regards, Maurice.

[usaf-lt-g]

Since the surfaces you are painting are relatively new, you can start out with 400 grit wet/dry and finish with 600 grit just before painting. Be sure to use a tack rag just before spraying to get any errant dust particles.

Again, the most important part is making sure that the surface is absolutely free of any contaminants (fingerprint oils, silicone, grease, etc.). If you leave any of those behind, you'll see what is called "fish eyes", which looks like a little pinhole sized pool around the spot. If you get one of those, the only solution is to either remove all the paint if you have just started spraying, or wait until the paint has cured, then clean it again with the Prep-sol or Pre-Kleano and just give it a very light scuffing with the 600 grit.

Also, make sure you "spank" the sandpaper so that no sandind residue stays on the sandpaper. That would cause a slight "gouge" on the surface.

One good way to insure you are always getting just sandpaper to surface contact, with no residue in between, is to use the wet-sanding method. I don't know if you have the inclination, but if you do, all you have to do is get some low pressure stream of water constantly running just above what you are sanding and the water will carry away the residue.

You can get great results with either method, but it does take time.

Regards, Maurice.

Any ideas on where I can get the proper Paint / Reducer / Hardener mixtures? I haven't been able to find this yet, so I have no idea what the proper manufacture mixture is supossed to be. Thanks again for all the info.

[1schoir]

Any ideas on where I can get the proper Paint / Reducer / Hardener mixtures? I haven't been able to find this yet, so I have no idea what the proper manufacture mixture is supossed to be. Thanks again for all the info.

Each manufacturer publishes very precise specification sheets, which you can get from the same auto paint store from which you buy the paint.

I have used Glasso Glasurit brand paint made by BASF, as well as Sherwin Williams Ultrabase 7000, and once in a while Dupont and Spies Hecker.

If you can find out the exact name of the color that Tequipment uses to paint the "alumilook" pieces, and whether it's a one stage or two stage (base coat/clear coat) paint, you can get the exact duplicate paint from any of these manufacturers and apply it according to their ratios.

Note also that reducers are made with different "evaporation speeds" depending on the temperature of the room or paint booth where you will be spraying.

If you go into your local auto paint store and tell them exactly what you are trying to achieve, I'm sure they will set you up with everything you need.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited November 27, 2008 by 1schoir

[usaf-lt-g]

Alright,

For those interested, I was able to get all the ratios and paint necessary based on the manufacturer specs:

It's as follows.

Only one stage base coat is needed. Reducer and Paint is all that's needed for the base coat, which is a 2:1 ratio. 2qts Paint, 1 liter reducer

Next is the clear coat which manufacturer uses a flat semi-gloss clear coat which uses a 3:1 ratio of activator / paint. Activator only comes in 1 liter amounts, so 1 liter of clear coat, and 1 liter of activator are what is needed.

Total cost of paint and everything is $348.60, and they gave me a 15% discount.

[usaf-lt-g]

After I get all the paint ordered and my pieces finished, i was thinking that i'll probably have enough paint left over to do at least a couple more sets of these if anyone is interested. Maybe say like an even $300 for all the pieces that are normally upgraded to Aluminum Look finish (i.e. Instrument Surround, Side Air Vents, Rear Section of Center Console, Door Lids...) plus whatever it costs to ship the pieces to me. I'll post pictures once I have mine done. This way you get all the pieces upgraded, for WAY less than Porsche or bumperplugs.com offer, and it's to Porsche specification.

[Steevo25]

Hi There,

This is something I am just about to start doing on mine. I am starting with the door bin lids (hopefully this weekend). Can anyone tell me how the door bin lids come off. Do I have to remove the door panel to take the bin lids off?

[silver arrow]

I am looking forward to doing my center console in red and the rest in silver. Looking forward to the full write up.

[RaisedOnPorsches]

I've got a 1999 Boxster with Arctic Silver exterior and Boxster Red interior. The interior already has a two tone black-red thing going on, but I really think it would look great to bring some of the silver look into the interior. Like the rest of you I've been staring at the prices of Alumi-look Tequipment with a dropped jaw. This DYI approach to repainting select interior pieces is a great idea. I really look forward to seeing pictures of your handiwork usaf-lt-g! Depending on how flush my finances are and how well your results turnout I may want to opt in on your offer.

P.S. For some additional pictures of Alumi-look parts checkout this place: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim2.html I stumbled upon it googling.

P.P.S. I think this is Porsche's full list of Alumi-look extras: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands.../interior/n265/

"Instrument surround.

Part no. 986 552 984 18

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). With leather trim.

Part no. 000 044 802 16

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). Available in black and Aluminum-Look only.

Part no. 000 044 802 17

Rear section of center console.

Part no. 986 552 995 09

Central air vent from 08/02.

Part no. 996 552 951 00

Door features (left/right).

Part no. 000 044 802 19

Steering wheel – manual.

Part no. 996 347 983 28

Steering wheel – Tiptronic.

Part no. 996 347 983 29

Handbrake lever.

Part no. 996 424 980 22"

Edited December 1, 2008 by RaisedOnPorsches

[usaf-lt-g]

I've got a 1999 Boxster with Arctic Silver exterior and Boxster Red interior. The interior already has a two tone black-red thing going on, but I really think it would look great to bring some of the silver look into the interior. Like the rest of you I've been staring at the prices of Alumi-look Tequipment with a dropped jaw. This DYI approach to repainting select interior pieces is a great idea. I really look forward to seeing pictures of your handiwork usaf-lt-g! Depending on how flush my finances are and how well your results turnout I may want to opt in on your offer.

P.S. For some additional pictures of Alumi-look parts checkout this place: http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim2.html I stumbled upon it googling.

P.P.S. I think this is Porsche's full list of Alumi-look extras: http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands.../interior/n265/

"Instrument surround.

Part no. 986 552 984 18

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). With leather trim.

Part no. 000 044 802 16

Dashboard trim – side air vents (left/right). Available in black and Aluminum-Look only.

Part no. 000 044 802 17

Rear section of center console.

Part no. 986 552 995 09

Central air vent from 08/02.

Part no. 996 552 951 00

Door features (left/right).

Part no. 000 044 802 19

Steering wheel – manual.

Part no. 996 347 983 28

Steering wheel – Tiptronic.

Part no. 996 347 983 29

Handbrake lever.

Part no. 996 424 980 22"

Thanks for the picture find :) I was specifically looking for what the side vents looked like, and now I know ;) Once i get my paint gun and the paint, i'll be sure to post on the progress.