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hey maurice, defiantly is the oil tube. although i am not sure if it is the middle part (doesn't look it has 3 parts, only 2.). it does have the connection you showed in you pic. but mine does not has the mesh sock but it has a coil like bending section towards the firewall/side of the coolant tank.

Here is a diagram of the three part oil fill tube for Boxster (986):

post-6627-1233446284_thumb.jpg

The three parts are # 15, 19 and 17.

#17 is the part inside the trunk, on the other side of the fire wall, under the coolant tank cover.

#19 is the one that has the crack in yours. Porsche Part number is 996 107 254 03

#15 is the part that attaches to the engine with that #28 bolt.

There are two part numbers 24. The one between #15 and #19 is the connection shown by the red arrow in my previous post.

#18 is the oil fill cap. Make sure that you check the integrity of the rubber gasket inside that cap (part #27 in the diagram) to see that there are no tears or cuts or twists. Those would also contribute to a vacuum leak.

I'm not sure about the coil-like bending section. Maybe it's a part that has been superseded. I know that another poster dealt with the missing mesh sock, but I can't find the thread. If I find it, I'll post the link.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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....

I'm not sure about the coil-like bending section. Maybe it's a part that has been superseded. I know that another poster dealt with the missing mesh sock, but I can't find the thread. If I find it, I'll post the link.

Regards, Maurice.

Here is that thread about the mesh sock: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=19046&hl

Lots of good info and photos. Also deals with the flexible/accordion part, which I guess is actually under the mesh sock. If the mesh sock is missing, I guess you can then see the accordion flexible part of that hose.

Regards, Maurice.

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hey maurice and glyn, i don't know what else i can say about you two, mainly, and all those who replied to help me. after cleaning the butterfly valve and taped the crack oil tube, the idling engine remain constant at about 850 to 900 rpm just like before. i am so thankful for the inputs and everything else that you guys have given me. just this simple task, about 3 hours of work because i don't know what i was doing but it will be quicker next time, saved me about $200 to $300 at the shop. i would buy you guys few rounds of beer or something. :cheers:

now i am more confident to tackle next few problems. next up is changing the AOS. but i'll have to find a way to jack up the car to access the AOS though. i'll also order the oil tube next week and that wil be the last piece for now. but tomorrow i will disconnect the battery (don't worry, i have my radio code) to clear my cel and see if it comes back (p1130 vacuum leak).

oh one more thing, i have ordered the AOS and the y-tube, is there a kind of lubricant that i need to changed the AOS also? can i get that at local autozone or do i need to order that from sunset too?

thank you all, :drive:

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Shihman, just use vaseline to lubricate the parts - it wont cause any issues and you dont want to be purchasing special rubber grease (Blue grease as known in the UK) it is very expensive and for one job its a waste of money.

If you do keep your car, then in the future at some point get yourself the Durametric software - its a brilliant piece of kit and can do most of what the Porsche testers do - sure, It can't code keys for obvious reasons but the software is updated what seems monthly and a free download - you just purchase the hardware and thats it for life.

Your profile doesnt say whereabouts you are from, Im right in the middle of the UK, If you add the area you are from other members on the forum may be very close by - a sort of mutual aid.

Have a great time fitting the AOS - the job is fiddly but you can use car ramps to raise the rear to get underneath.

Glyn

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hey maurice and glyn, i don't know what else i can say about you two, mainly, and all those who replied to help me. after cleaning the butterfly valve and taped the crack oil tube, the idling engine remain constant at about 850 to 900 rpm just like before. i am so thankful for the inputs and everything else that you guys have given me. just this simple task, about 3 hours of work because i don't know what i was doing but it will be quicker next time, saved me about $200 to $300 at the shop. i would buy you guys few rounds of beer or something. :cheers:

now i am more confident to tackle next few problems. next up is changing the AOS. but i'll have to find a way to jack up the car to access the AOS though. i'll also order the oil tube next week and that wil be the last piece for now. but tomorrow i will disconnect the battery (don't worry, i have my radio code) to clear my cel and see if it comes back (p1130 vacuum leak).

oh one more thing, i have ordered the AOS and the y-tube, is there a kind of lubricant that i need to changed the AOS also? can i get that at local autozone or do i need to order that from sunset too?

thank you all, :drive:

Shihman:

Excellent news about getting that idle back to normal. Let us know if that CEL does not come back.

When you get the AOS, you might want to tackle that job at the same time as you do the oil fill tube. Maybe replace the oil fill tube first, so that you have that extra room without the AOS in place, and then put the new AOS in.

When you install the AOS, put the lubricant on the seal that is pointed out by the yellow arrow in post #20 in this thread. The only difficult part about the AOS installation is replacing that factory clamp on the bottom of the bellows. Again, that Sears hose clamp pliers would be invaluable in getting that done.

I think you would be floored by what the dealer would charge you to fixing the idle, replacing the oil fill tube and the AOS. Give yourself a big pat on the back.

Like Glyn, I too hope that you get to keep the car and then maybe enjoy driving it to your new job when that happens.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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hey guy, just reporting back. i cleared my cel by disconnecting my battery and i drove around all day for about 60 miles and cel hasn't come back on. but i am sure it may take a bit longer than just one day. also after i taped the crack on my oil tube, (i also sealed it with silicone and used a flex hose crack black tape over) there were no more puff of smoke at the start up, none all day. is it possible that the crack was the culprit for everything? :huh:

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hey guy, just reporting back. i cleared my cel by disconnecting my battery and i drove around all day for about 60 miles and cel hasn't come back on. but i am sure it may take a bit longer than just one day. also after i taped the crack on my oil tube, (i also sealed it with silicone and used a flex hose crack black tape over) there were no more puff of smoke at the start up, none all day. is it possible that the crack was the culprit for everything? :huh:

Shihman:

It's possible, but the only way to eliminate the AOS is to check whether you are still getting oil deposits in the throttle body after driving a few hundred miles.

If you don't get any more puffs of smoke, no CEL and no oil deposits, you might be in the clear.

If you are keeping the car and already have the AOS on the way, it would be good practice to replace it since you've got 108K miles on the engine.

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok guys, i am getting very frustrated and about to give up. but i am stuck half and don't know what the heck my next move should be.

i finally got all the parts and read and re-read all the directions and ready to tackle the task. of course, nothing ever works out the way you planned.

1. i started with replacing the cracked middle section of the oil tube. then realize the Y-tube connected to the AOS is in the way. so i took out the Y-tube and that wasn't too bad except the old tube snapped in half while i try to disconnect. but no worries, i can and will replace that tube anyway.

2. next, now that the Y-tube is out of the way, i moved on to disconnect the end of the oil tube behind the Y-tube. after messing around with the hose clamp, my newly bought sears hose clamp plier broke. but no worries, i was still able to use it to open up the hose clamp. even with the hose clamp out of the way, the hose still would not move an inch, not at all. there were not much room around it to apply any force to it. i thought about cutting the cracked hose in half and i can twist the hose and hopefully that will help to loosen it (good thing i didn't before i moved on to the next step, i'll explain why).

3. so i thought may be if i take out the AOS and i should have more room to maneuver to work around the oil tube. so i moved on to take off the rear passenger wheel. oh boy, here is the fun part. i can't freaking loose all the bolts. tried everything even standing on it would not loosen them. and the worst part, i even snap the key lock for the locking bolt. i am just wondering how the hell am i suppose to change my tire if i had a flat on side of the road. NOW WHAT???

now that i took out the Y-tube and that can be easily replaced with the new one. since i haven cut my cracked oil tube (this is why is good), i guess i can tighten the 3 bolts i was able to loosen, in 45 minutes, and drive to local tire store for them to loosen all the bolts for me if the key lock is still usable.

after messed around for about 2-1/2 hours (about 45 min actually doing something productive) how do i change the oil tube end that is buried all the way inside the compartment cavity (outside the oil reservoir) if i was able to disconnect the other end? would it help if ido cut the old oil tube in half, anyone done that before?

i need help and advice before i give up.

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Shihman, If the repair on the oil tube is sound why bother replacing it - leave it as it is and concentrate on the AOS.

The AOS is the job you really need to do.

The wheel bolts - some numpty obviously overtightened them, Just use a torque wrench or a nice long handled bar to add a bit of torque to the normal bolts.

The wheel locking bolt is unlikely to be damaged but the key could be, If this one has been overtightened then either a impact air gun or a large T bar is needed to get it to turn.

Again dont worry too much at this moment in time about removing the wheel - the AOS can be changed without removing the wheel (all the wheel removal will do is add more light.

Prioritise - AOS

Get under the car once the car is up on domestic car ramps (The cheap drive up ones for home use) stick a bit of carpet on the floor underneath the engine and have a good look at the job, get the old AOS off and fit the new - then worry about the J tube and Oil tube.

The J tube will be easy, the repaired oil tube - just keep it, assemble the whole lot then at your leisure take it to a garage for an air gun bolt removal or if you have a breakdown service they will come out and they will get the bolts off.

Take a deep breath - and a beer - you are putting yourself under pressure - There is nothing that cant be fixed its just a car and slow methodical work will see you through this job.

Glyn

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ok, i took a big breath and set my mind on finishing it. i put the car on ramps however, so far i still did everything from top. the only time i needed to go under the car is to take a second look on the location of where everything are. sure, i did a lot simply by touch and using the new AOS as a guide.

so far, i was able to took off the 2 - 10mm bolts, cut the accordion part of the hose, dislodge the old AOS. now i am stuck again with the middle hose. it's been almost 45 min. mess around with the connection. the problem is i just can't apply any force on clamping down the ring or applying force around the elbow to force it apart. without taking out the middle hose, the AOS is not gong anywhere. i am also afraid to put too much force on the ring to break it. any quick tipson how to take the middle hose out? i am sorry if i am asking all those stupid questions. i can see the finish line and i am getting a little excited and then something else will stumble me.

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ok, i took a big breath and set my mind on finishing it. i put the car on ramps however, so far i still did everything from top. the only time i needed to go under the car is to take a second look on the location of where everything are. sure, i did a lot simply by touch and using the new AOS as a guide.

so far, i was able to took off the 2 - 10mm bolts, cut the accordion part of the hose, dislodge the old AOS. now i am stuck again with the middle hose. it's been almost 45 min. mess around with the connection. the problem is i just can't apply any force on clamping down the ring or applying force around the elbow to force it apart. without taking out the middle hose, the AOS is not gong anywhere. i am also afraid to put too much force on the ring to break it. any quick tipson how to take the middle hose out? i am sorry if i am asking all those stupid questions. i can see the finish line and i am getting a little excited and then something else will stumble me.

If you have dislodged the AOS from the two parts of the engine that it connects to, then you should definitely be able to pull it up and out without having to take out the middle oil filler tube. The only things that gets in the way are the two fat "cables" that run from front to back over the motor. If you push or pull those out of the way, and rotate the AOS as it's coming up, you will be able to pull it out. Note that the bottom "square" base of the AOS (where the two 10 mm bolts attach it to the side of the engine) has to clear another thin tube that runs above the square. Make sure the base of the AOS is not getting hung up on that. (Take a look at the earlier post with the photo that has the drop light in it in Post #20 in this thread and you will see the tube that I am referring to, just where the red arrow starts).

Once you have the AOS out, you will have a lot more room to deal with the oil filler tube.

If you can't apply enough force on the plastic ring by hand, you can GENTLY use a pair of channel lock pliers with one hand, while you pull on the tube with the other hand.

Put a bright light on the connections you are working on and study them. You will have a much better shot at disconnecting them once you see how they are put together.

Also, although it may be possible, I think it will be much more difficult to install that bottom clamp onto the base of the bellows while the right rear wheel is on.

If you put a jackstand under that corner of the car (and take the wheel off), your shoulder ends up in the area occupied by the right rear wheel and tire when you are reaching from underneath to install that bottom clamp on the bellows. Same thing for re-installing the two 10mm nuts that hold the AOS against the side of the engine.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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thank you for your quick reply. i tried every which possible way, even snapped another plastic cable (i'll include a photo when i calm down), but the bottom part of the AOS which houses the 2 bolts will not clean the middle oil tube runs across the top preventing me to take the AOS out.

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thank you for your quick reply. i tried every which possible way, even snapped another plastic cable (i'll include a photo when i calm down), but the bottom part of the AOS which houses the 2 bolts will not clean the middle oil tube runs across the top preventing me to take the AOS out.

Are you sure that you have the two 10mm bolts completely removed and that you have cut the bellows completely through?

Looking at your photo in post #21, it looks like there should be some give in the middle oil tube because of the accordion part of that tube at the rear edge.

You can see the two thick cables running across the top. If you don't have a helper who can pull those two cables up and to the driver's side, and then pull on the oil tube in the same direction so as to give you a wider opening to pull the AOS out, why not try to tie those two obstructions back, using some thick rope.

That will give you two hands with which to manoeuver the AOS so that you can rotate it and tilt it to ease its removal from that space.

Regards, Maurice.

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Sometimes it is so frustrating - I hear what you say but cant see what you are seeing.

Persistance is the key, it all does come apart but its getting the movements right - but you will get there in the end - probably with a few cuts and bruises but dont give up on this.

Look on the bright side - you have the new part, the old part is almost out, you have had set backs but you are much further forward from where you were when you first raised the problem, and you have identified an issue with the wheel bolts - which if undiscovered and a puncture occured miles from nowhere you would be in for a really big bill getting the car recovered.

You also discovered the craked tube - sorted the idle hunt issues and now your on the final leg - You have achieved this through persistance - keep at it and you will finish the job

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Nah, we all get that from time to time - even when we think we know what we are doing.

Thats why we join these forums - when we get stuck we find someone knows a handy trick or too or offers a bit of support - sometimes you feel like getting rid of the car - but when its running right and we have saved a shedload by doing it ourselves we forget all the bad bits - just like you will

good luck

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am i the only one this confused and frustrated about this while DIY thing?

You are DEFINITELY not the only one who gets confused and frustrated about this whole DIY thing, not by a long shot. I have a lot of experience in that area.

Glyn's advice above is very sage, and if you stay calm and remain persistent you will definitely get it done.

Again, look back at how far you have come, realize that you now understand exactly what you have to replace to get all of this done and you will get some new inspiration. Just keep at it and keep your cool. :soapbox:

Pretty soon, we'll all be doing this: :clapping:

Regards, Maurice.

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Definitely take a look at the great write up by Brad at the link he provided.

It has some excellent photos of your exact model of Boxster S. It will become very obvious where your AOS can become hung up, thus making it difficult to pull out.

Specifically, have you unhooked the clip holding the wire loom and pulled it over the test port, and then pulled that second wire loom over the test port as well. Also, that bracket that holds the O2 sensor connector near the base of the bellows has to come off. Brad's photos show that in great detail and should guide you.

Regards, Maurice.

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hey brad, your post was very clear. i appreciate everyone's patience for sticking with me. i tried again until sun went down yesterday and a little more this morning and looks like there is just no way i can take AOS out with out disconnecting the middle hose on AOS or the middle oil tube across the top.

those pesky plastic ring is just...grrr. the way they are oriented i just can't get the plier in the right rotation to squeeze them open. i know, i will keep trying.

thanks again. i'll report back in my next break. :cursing:

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