Dating a Supermodel!

[jackchung]

Driving and owning my 996TT is just like dating a Supermodel! You love the looks, best feeling in the world when everything is going great, but the high maintainance kills you. There are days that I just want a reliable car. Then you remember all the reasons why I drive a 996TT. I just want my car to run like it was supposed to.

Here is the latest issue: 2002 996TT X50 6speed and FVD chipped, 100 cell cats and exhaust fropm FVD with 83,000 miles on it. Regular boost is 1.1 to 1.2 bars when the Porsche is running good. Daily driver, 20K miles per year and driven in sun and snow.

Two weeks ago, car is misfiring again and the check egine light is flashing then going off at WOT above 3500 rpm. Now the CEL is flashing occasionally and staying on. OBD2 reader is showing misfires on all but cyclinder 6. I have always had issues with plugs so I pulled the sparks and coil to see. All 3 plugs on the drivers side was only 10k miles old but were completely black (running rich?) but the passanger side was nice and brown. Why the difference between driver's side and passanger's side? Replaced plugs with NGK iridium cool temperature range and two coils on the passanger side that looked fine but the numb where the wiring harness clips into was damaged. Car still misfires pretty bad. Just as a test, I put in 100 octane gas with no difference.

Any ideas to why the dramatic difference in the spark plug wear? I was trying to think what sensor would manage the driver's and passanger's side differently and the only thing I can come up with is the O2 sensors. Any ideas? Also, which side is cyclinder bank 1 and bank 2? What is the order of cyclinder number? Is cyclinder 1 the driver's side (bank 1?) closest to the driver? I was hoping for some cures and/or directions before I take it to a dealer. Just like dating a supermodel, I know its going to cost me a lot. Hoping to save a few bucks before I am at the dealer. Thank you all in advance!

[rockjock]

I dont own a TT-but coming from Turbo'd cars (Evo's and mazdaspeed's) I'd look first at the timing and ignition tables for your tune-

do you run an AFR gauge? tuned for 93 oct, ect?

I would start with the tune tables and see if there is anything that needs to be changed to fit your mods (if this is not a custom dyno tune)-then start with fuel del.-pump, injcetors, ect.

If you're hitting full boost about the time the CEL is flashing, that could/would be a indicator of knock (does the Porsche flash the knock count for you?). Boost leak?

I know thats all over-sorry-I'd start with a boost leak,then tables, then fuel-I'm guessing its in the tables....

at least you get the supermodel....I got Ugly Bettie :D

[jackchung]

Sometimes, a dependable Ugly Betty is nicer! ...sometimes

[jackchung]

The mods on the cars has been running fine for years, the problems have just been more recent issues. I have not put any new mods that affected the car. I have had many turbo cars including 2 Subaru STi's but the issues with the Porsche is far more complex. Thanks for the reply.

[wross996TT]

Two weeks ago, car is misfiring again and the check egine light is flashing then going off at WOT above 3500 rpm. Now the CEL is flashing occasionally and staying on. OBD2 reader is showing misfires on all but cyclinder 6. I have always had issues with plugs so I pulled the sparks and coil to see. All 3 plugs on the drivers side was only 10k miles old but were completely black (running rich?) but the passanger side was nice and brown. Why the difference between driver's side and passanger's side? Replaced plugs with NGK iridium cool temperature range and two coils on the passanger side that looked fine but the numb where the wiring harness clips into was damaged. Car still misfires pretty bad. Just as a test, I put in 100 octane gas with no difference.

Any ideas to why the dramatic difference in the spark plug wear? I was trying to think what sensor would manage the driver's and passanger's side differently and the only thing I can come up with is the O2 sensors. Any ideas? Also, which side is cyclinder bank 1 and bank 2? What is the order of cyclinder number? Is cyclinder 1 the driver's side (bank 1?) closest to the driver? I was hoping for some cures and/or directions before I take it to a dealer. Just like dating a supermodel, I know its going to cost me a lot. Hoping to save a few bucks before I am at the dealer. Thank you all in advance!

Can you provide the actual codes? Bank 1 is driver side, position 3 is closest to the driver. Can you flash it back to stock? I would be very suspicious of coil packs, but I don't see why they would effect just one bank? Why do you use those plugs? Are they recommended by your tuner? I use Bosch FR6 for my tune.

[jackchung]

Two weeks ago, car is misfiring again and the check egine light is flashing then going off at WOT above 3500 rpm. Now the CEL is flashing occasionally and staying on. OBD2 reader is showing misfires on all but cyclinder 6. I have always had issues with plugs so I pulled the sparks and coil to see. All 3 plugs on the drivers side was only 10k miles old but were completely black (running rich?) but the passanger side was nice and brown. Why the difference between driver's side and passanger's side? Replaced plugs with NGK iridium cool temperature range and two coils on the passanger side that looked fine but the numb where the wiring harness clips into was damaged. Car still misfires pretty bad. Just as a test, I put in 100 octane gas with no difference.

Any ideas to why the dramatic difference in the spark plug wear? I was trying to think what sensor would manage the driver's and passanger's side differently and the only thing I can come up with is the O2 sensors. Any ideas? Also, which side is cyclinder bank 1 and bank 2? What is the order of cyclinder number? Is cyclinder 1 the driver's side (bank 1?) closest to the driver? I was hoping for some cures and/or directions before I take it to a dealer. Just like dating a supermodel, I know its going to cost me a lot. Hoping to save a few bucks before I am at the dealer. Thank you all in advance!

Can you provide the actual codes? Bank 1 is driver side, position 3 is closest to the driver. Can you flash it back to stock? I would be very suspicious of coil packs, but I don't see why they would effect just one bank? Why do you use those plugs? Are they recommended by your tuner? I use Bosch FR6 for my tune.

The ones I just pulled were Bosch FR6. I thought since I was having issues, try a different plug to see if I get different results. The codes were from a generic OBD2 scan tool here at Kuni Lexus. I will take it in to Porsche for a full reading, I just hate to spend good money! Thanks and thanks for your suggestions on the key fob issue.

[wross996TT]

The ones I just pulled were Bosch FR6. I thought since I was having issues, try a different plug to see if I get different results. The codes were from a generic OBD2 scan tool here at Kuni Lexus. I will take it in to Porsche for a full reading, I just hate to spend good money! Thanks and thanks for your suggestions on the key fob issue.

You don't have durametric...a must if you have a modded car...in any case instead of going to Porsche (if you do go to Stevinson and ask for Justin or Chance) call Orrin at Eurosport Ltd. Union Ave. in Lakewood 303.789.2545...tell him Bill sent you. he knows these cars well.

Edited November 5, 2009 by wross996TT

[JeTexas]

Have you tried calling the car fat and taking every chance possible to tear down its self-esteem in hopes it will perform better in an effort to please you?

[wross996TT]

Have you tried calling the car fat and taking every chance possible to tear down its self-esteem in hopes it will perform better in an effort to please you?

LMAO...then she'll just go buy more shoes....

[1schoir]

Have you tried calling the car fat and taking every chance possible to tear down its self-esteem in hopes it will perform better in an effort to please you?

LMAO...then she'll just go buy more shoes....

ROTFLMAO... And shoes are very expensive on a 997...

Regards, Maurice.

[jackchung]

Have you tried calling the car fat and taking every chance possible to tear down its self-esteem in hopes it will perform better in an effort to please you?

LMAO...then she'll just go buy more shoes....

ROTFLMAO... And shoes are very expensive on a 997...

Regards, Maurice.

I am thinking of dumping her for a younger 997 supermodel!

[Dus10R]

Driving and owning my 996TT is just like dating a Supermodel! You love the looks, best feeling in the world when everything is going great, but the high maintainance kills you. There are days that I just want a reliable car. Then you remember all the reasons why I drive a 996TT. I just want my car to run like it was supposed to.

Here is the latest issue: 2002 996TT X50 6speed and FVD chipped, 100 cell cats and exhaust fropm FVD with 83,000 miles on it. Regular boost is 1.1 to 1.2 bars when the Porsche is running good. Daily driver, 20K miles per year and driven in sun and snow.

Two weeks ago, car is misfiring again and the check egine light is flashing then going off at WOT above 3500 rpm. Now the CEL is flashing occasionally and staying on. OBD2 reader is showing misfires on all but cyclinder 6. I have always had issues with plugs so I pulled the sparks and coil to see. All 3 plugs on the drivers side was only 10k miles old but were completely black (running rich?) but the passanger side was nice and brown. Why the difference between driver's side and passanger's side? Replaced plugs with NGK iridium cool temperature range and two coils on the passanger side that looked fine but the numb where the wiring harness clips into was damaged. Car still misfires pretty bad. Just as a test, I put in 100 octane gas with no difference.

Any ideas to why the dramatic difference in the spark plug wear? I was trying to think what sensor would manage the driver's and passanger's side differently and the only thing I can come up with is the O2 sensors. Any ideas? Also, which side is cyclinder bank 1 and bank 2? What is the order of cyclinder number? Is cyclinder 1 the driver's side (bank 1?) closest to the driver? I was hoping for some cures and/or directions before I take it to a dealer. Just like dating a supermodel, I know its going to cost me a lot. Hoping to save a few bucks before I am at the dealer. Thank you all in advance!

Misfires can be caused by the following...

Spark plug wires

Ignition coil

Fuel injector

Wiring to fuel injector

Timing Belt

Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR

Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump

Weak compression

Blown head gasket

Your saying that it misfires at low rpm but not at high rpms?

With a modded car / chip, it could be a lot of things fuel related. Without a wideband O2 reader you don't know what it's doing, you're just trusting that the FVD map is still working correctly. It could be running too lean in the lower rpms and then at WOT when the boost spools in their map is fattening up the AFR like it should which is solving the problem temporarily. Or, it's not getting enough fuel pressure, EGR valve is bad, MAF issues, valve stuck or bad (do compression check). If you've already tried all of the easy stuff and it's still having problems then theres something deeper.

You normally cant get something for nothing when modding. If Porsche could get 500hp out of the 996TT by just chipping it, why would they go through the trouble of re-engineering and building an entirely new 3.8L motor for the new 2010 Turbo? It's definitely possible to get the horsepower out of the 996TT but at what cost to longevity. You buy exhaust and a chip from a company that you trust but in reality you have no idea how their fuel & timing maps work unless you're data logging with a wideband.

I've had STI, EVO, Porsche, Nissan and the principle is all the same. In fact, with my Evo, the factory map wasn't good for the car at WOT and top speed, it was too lean and getting knock. I had to alter the factory map to bring a balance of longevity and performance back into the equation. I guess Mitsubishi didn't expect many people to drive their Evo's at top speed for any length of time; they didn't count on us Nevadan's and our miles of straight lonley roads.

So you need to data log to truely see what's happening.

[wross996TT]

good post ^...remember you are talking high altitude. I sent a data log to my tuner and he adjusted the tune for the environment...