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Rear trunk doesn't pop with remote


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Odd issue - my rear trunk will release if I use the cabin switch but it won't release if I press the button on the remote. The red light on the dashboard still lights up like when using the other buttons - so I don't suspect the issue is in the remote. The button for the front trunk still works like normal.

Is there a common culprit for this issue? What should I check?

Edited by Dr.Strangepork
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Dr.,

Do you have a second (transmitter) key to try? If you do, and it functions correctly, check the printed circuit board in the offending key. There have been instances where the electrical connection of the internal switch has broken free from the board. Some people have been successful in re-attaching the switch to the board by carefully re-soldering the connection with a fine point soldering iron.

The June 2010 edition of Excellence Magazine has a section on key fob repair.

Getting back to the number of keys you have....if the malfunctioning key is the only key you have, it might be prudent to purchase at least a valet key to have as a back-up.

Bill

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Thanks for the replies! I'll have to get a look at it this weekend or next.

When I first got my boxster, I thought the remote wasn't opening the trunk either, but then I realized I have to press and hold the button for 3-5 sec. If you are just tapping it, try holding it down for a couple sec. That might do the trick !

Do you have to hold it down for longer than the front trunk? Man I'm going to feel like an idiot if that's the real issue rolleyes.gif

Do you have a second (transmitter) key to try? If you do, and it functions correctly, check the printed circuit board in the offending key.

I do have a second key, but if I remember right it doesn't start the car for some reason so I never use it. I'll have to dig it up and try it. Like I said though, the red light on the dashboard lights up when I hold down the rear trunk button just like it does for the other buttons so I suspect the key is still transmitting signal correctly.

I had the same issue, but I could hear the release working. The rod had not been attached to the latch from day one! I could tell it had never been apart, must have been built on a friday afternoon!
I can't hear a darn thing from mine!
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I do have a second key, but if I remember right it doesn't start the car for some reason so I never use it. I'll have to dig it up and try it. Like I said though, the red light on the dashboard lights up when I hold down the rear trunk button just like it does for the other buttons so I suspect the key is still transmitting signal correctly.

If you find your second key and it doesn't start the car, the remote portion may still work.

Also, if your second key won't start the car, try it again while you have your first key in the vicinity. If the car starts that way, then the small transponder pill in the second key is suspect (but only with respect to starting the car).

Regards, Maurice.

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Also, if your second key won't start the car, try it again while you have your first key in the vicinity. If the car starts that way, then the small transponder pill in the second key is suspect (but only with respect to starting the car).

Is the immobilizer on these cars RF based or something like that?

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

Sorry to resurrect a 2-month old thread. I had the same problem on my new to me 1999 986 base 5-speed. I can hear the mechanism move but the trunk opens automatically with the key buttons only about 1/3rd of the times on the first try, and never on any immediately following try. It seems I have to wait and open the trunk with the Incar lever once before having any chances of being able to open it with the key buttons.

So I open everything to get to the locking mechanisms. Carpet, brackets, etc.... I gave up after 1-hour, trying to take out the rear spoiler. This system is way over-engineered! But here is what I learned from the experience. The in-car lever pulls a wire connected to the latch and unlocks it. Ok. The key OTOH operates a small actuator which is connected to a rod, which Is connected to the same locking latch. Once activated, the actuator pulls on the rod which pulls the latch and opens the lock. I believe compressed air also has something to do with this system. Is this correct? I noticed compress air lines connected to the rear spoiler seem to also be connected to the latch mechanism(???).

Or, Is it possible the actuator is too "weak" and works only 1/3rd of the time? I lubed everything last night and this morning, it worked on the first try and once more, after a long ride, but didn't work other times today.

Oh well. If working on the car is such a PIA, this does not bolt well for me. I hope other systems are not as over engineered and are easier to work on. Man, who thought of putting such latch mechanism behind a large metal bar that is not accessible without removing the rear spoiler, and perhaps bumper...worse then working on...gulp, a French car! ;-)

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