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Well, the CEL came on last week. Hooked up the Durametric, and got the code C1801, which doesn't correspond to anything I've been able to find, but what it said was:

"Camshaft position sensor A, bank 1 or single sensor, value below limit, test conditions not completed, fault not currently active and causing a DTC light"

Read a few posts here and there that suggested changing the oil may help, (it was due anyway) so did that, cleared the code, and started driving again. After about 40 miles it came back on, this time with code C1601, but saying the same thing.

Any clues on what this is and how to fix? Is it something I can DIY or should I take it to the dealer?

Thanks for any advice.

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Well, the CEL came on last week. Hooked up the Durametric, and got the code C1801, which doesn't correspond to anything I've been able to find, but what it said was:

"Camshaft position sensor A, bank 1 or single sensor, value below limit, test conditions not completed, fault not currently active and causing a DTC light"

Read a few posts here and there that suggested changing the oil may help, (it was due anyway) so did that, cleared the code, and started driving again. After about 40 miles it came back on, this time with code C1601, but saying the same thing.

Any clues on what this is and how to fix? Is it something I can DIY or should I take it to the dealer?

Thanks for any advice.

Who exactly told you that changing the oil might help (I want to avoid listening to that person..)?

The code is pretty simple - your camshaft position sensor is bad or going bad.

Can you DIY? Well, since you didn't give any year/model info, and I have no idea of your skill level that's not possible for me to say. So I'd suggest finding a good independent (or use the dealer if you must..)

HINT: In general - the better your question, and the more info you provide (like model/year/miles/etc) when asking a question - the better your answers are going to be.

Edited by deilenberger
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If the Durametric description is right - then the code is wrong.

Before I changed any parts I would reset the code and see if it returns.

I've reset it, but unfortunately it came back. From a few other threads, I read that some other people have had the same code due to dirty oil. After changing, the CEL didn't come back, but I guess I won't be as lucky.

same problem different code, There is a little deviation and the car runs finr, but I am changing the sensor because I don't

like check lights

Yep, my car is running fine as well, but I don't want that light either since my wife drives the vehicle sometimes, I don't want her to get used to lights on the dash and ignoring them! This thread suggests that the labor isn't bad at all, so I think I'll check the service manual to see what is involved with changing it out.

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Re: Changing oil to remedy codes... My service writer in Austin had told me the same thing about a camshaft position sensor problem.

Seems even the techs think the recommended oil change interval is too long in general. Not stating any facts. It's not the first time I have heard "change the oil" to solve a senor problem before.

$0.02

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Re: Changing oil to remedy codes... My service writer in Austin had told me the same thing about a camshaft position sensor problem.

Seems even the techs think the recommended oil change interval is too long in general. Not stating any facts. It's not the first time I have heard "change the oil" to solve a senor problem before.

$0.02

Nor mine. Quite a few posts on the web for several models of Porsche that have said this. I tried it, but I wasn't one of the lucky ones I guess. Found the sensor online for $65. Should be here in a few days, then I'll start the install, looks to be pretty straightforward, just a bit hard to get to. I'll post up afterwards how difficult it was, no sense paying the dealer for something that can be done by an enthusiast at home.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just posting an update to this. To replace the camshaft sensors, it's basically the same procedure that you'd need to do for replacing the plastic coolant pipes... the intake manifold has to be removed. Once it's removed, the sensor is just held in place by one bolt towards the back of both banks, very easy to get to.

I removed the sensor, buttoned everything back up, and started the car. Car started up, ran for about 5-10 seconds, then died. Would not start again. Had to remove the intake manifold again (making it my third time doing it) and put the old sensor back in. Put it all back together again, turned the key, and the car starts up just fine, but still had the CEL. So, the sensor I bought was DOA, most likely. Tore it apart yet again, but this time to swap sensors between bank 1 and 2. Put it back together, and hooked up the Durametric. Sure enough, my error code in the Durametric changed from bank 1 to 2, so it's obviously a sensor problem. Sent the dead sensor back, and spent twice as much to get a Bosch sensor. Should be here Wednesday, can hopefully get it installed on the weekend. I made one modification to the car that has made this job a ton easier. At the very back of the engine, on bank 1, there are several hard plastic air lines. One of them goes all the way to the front of the car and plugs into the bottom of the Y pipe attached to the throttle body.

That hose has a curved kink to it near where it connects to an air filter near the firewall. It also makes removing the fuel rail and intake manifold screw back there a real PITA. So, I cut this hose near where it connects at the back of the engine. I happened to have some spare silicon tubing laying around, an ID of .5 fits perfectly in covering the now split hose, and it can be removed easily when needing to get those two screws out. Why Porsche routed that line that way, I'll never know, it's completely unnecessary.

I may take a pic and post it if anyone wants to see it, makes taking the intake manifold off a breeze. Anyway, once the sensor is here I'll be doing it yet again, hopefully for the last time!

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Received the new Bosch sensor yesterday, and installed it today. This sensor was an exact match to the factory sensor, all the markings, etc were the same. The previous sensor I bought was not. Plugged it in, put the car back together and everything works fine. Not sure what a dealer would have charged for swapping it out, I've read that it's a 7 hour job, but this is something that isn't difficult to do at all, just takes some time. Car is running fine with no check engine light now. Part number of the Bosch sensor is 996-606-106-02.

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This is actually the first time I've ever had a problem with buying a generic part vs an OEM one. I suppose it was bound to happen after all these years, just sucks that it was a part that takes so much effort to get to. Oh well, problem solved!

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Hooked up the Durametric, and got the code C1801, which doesn't correspond to anything I've been able to find...

Is your Durametric version 6.2.0.0.? If so, update to the most current version. I too was getting codes that were either transposed or just wrong altogether. The next version fixed this. If you have the latest version, report the error to Durametric and they'll get it fixed for the following version.

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