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Leaking bleeder valve housing 911/996 3.6 engine 2003

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I have a small coolant leak from the interface on the bleeder valve housing. I have tightened up a few of the bolts by a half turn, which has reduced the leak, but there is one bolt that is obviously stuck and I am afraid to turn it in case it shears. I have tried a gentle nudge in both directions, but I just don't want to chance my luck. Does anyone have any bright ideas? The offending bolt is the one with a slight reddish tint on the washer.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to get the all the bolts out from the housing without removing the header tank which will also require the SAI pump to be removed.

Thanks for reading.




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These bleeder valves can be "rebuilt" with some relatively cheap OEM parts, and if memory serves, someone did a write up on the process a while back. The biggest potential problem, aside from getting at it, is removing the eight bolts that hold the assembly together, they have a tendency to snap off if they get corroded, and then it is “tank time”.............

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Thanks for the reply and on reading around for other info I see that broken screws here are a known problem. I think my best option is to get a S/H replacement tank and valve as back up. I will then remove the tank from the car and drill the top off the offending stuck screws which will enable me to remove the valve and leave a screw shaft in place. At least with a screw shaft that I can clamp I will have a better chance of getting in out of the header tank surface.


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If your existing tank is original, it's 10yrs old already and can break/leak anytime now. Does it make more sense to replace it with a new one especially if you plan to remove your current tank from the car anyway? The '03 tanks are cheaper than the older models..

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Well I think there is a lot of sense in that suggestion as a new tank does come with a new pressure release valve. Also, there are quite a few postings about fractured tanks. Perhaps I had better think more carefully on how to proceed as I don't want to end up doing the job twice.H

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  • 2 weeks later...

To continue with the thread I thought I would have a look at the bleeder valve. Even though I have bought a new tank, the existing tank looks pretty new for a 10 year old car. I took off the SAI pump and the air intake and this allowed me to slip the header tank over to get at all the screws on the bleed valve. 7 of the screws came out OK and were as new but the 8th, where the leak was, was feeling slender. I tried to unscrew it but it snapped off leaving a stub. The screws had rotted so there had been a leak here for some time. At this stage I was able to remove the valve and separate it. It seals with two "O" rings which were in good condition. I soaked the stub of the screw in penetrating oil and left it for an hour. I then eased it out with a self grip wrench. I "borrowed" one of the screws from the new header and replaced the bleed valve. I lubricated the "O" rings with silicon spray. Things seems to be OK so with a bit of luck I won't have to replace the header tank just yet.



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