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Strange voltage regulator behavior...


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Hello All,

Weird thing happened with my 02 996 yesterday... It's a 6 speed, vert...

Driving to work, my voltage gauge started jumping from 14 - 11 volts.. back and forth.. Okay, my regulator is going out. Seen it before...

Work all day.. go out, get in the car, it charges normal for about 10 minutes, then starts jumping again when things warm up. Just about home... I'm about 200 yards from home and the voltage regulator pegs at full charge.. then my ABS and brake warning lights come on.. I turn in the driveway and turn the thing off... Lock the doors.. Go in, and order a regulator from Pelican...

The next day, it's going to rain, so I think, I'll put the car in the garage. I go out.. and my drivers side window has lowered about 3 inches.. and my remote won't open the door. I manually unlock it.. and sure enouhg. The batter is dead... the key in the ignition does nothing.. no dome lights.. nothing. But, the red warning indicator on the radio is blinking.... Hmmm.

I hook up a battery to the hot post in the fuse box to try and get the hood open.. Hit the positive terminal, the alarm goes off.. the key in the door does nothing, nor can I get the hood or truck unlatched...

I'm scratching my head here.... and kinda freaking out because the thought of towing this to the dealer has my wallet puking! I'm good mechanically, and can do most anything.. but I don't know where to ever start on this? Blown fuses maybe????

Thanks,

...Joe

Edited by Loren
fixed model year
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Everything you have described is voltage related. A bad battery and/or alternator will cause the ABS and PSM MIL's to light up, the radio indicator is a low voltage LED which will work when the battery won't turn the car over, the alarm often goes off when the battery is first reconnected, etc. Get the voltage regulator or alternator tested and replaced, recharge the battery (if it has not been permanently damaged by all this) and have it load tested, and you should be back in business. Nothing unusual.

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Thanks for the response!

I agree with everything you said... and it all makes sense. What baffles me is why I apply power to the red post in the fuse box to unlatch the hood, it doesn't work!!!! The alarms sounds loud and strong.. not like I have a weak batter connected to it. But the key in the door will not disable the alarm, nor will the hood or trunk unlatch. Gotta be a fuse right???

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No. A very weak battery will sometimes draw all the power when you use the fuse box to try and get the trunk open. The alarm has "priority" in the electrical circuits over other stuff. All this is classical low voltage headaches which will disappear when the battery is charged and the alternator is back online.

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Jgaude, JFP is absolutely right. Low voltage does screwy things to these cars. You are the second person who reports that their electric emergency trunk opening circuit did not work. If you use a high enough current device such as a powerpack used for jump starting cars you might get it to work.

A bad battery in my car resulted in a blown PCM and instrument cluster to the tune of $9000! (under warranty). One of the cells was shorted out. If your battery is over 5 years old or has been deep cycled it may be your only problem. The battery's date of manufacture is usually stamped on one of the posts. you may need a magnifier to see it. Regardless it is probably toast now anyway. There is an emergency trunk release cable in your driver's side wheel well up high towards the front. Pull the cable to open your trunk. Then replace the battery. If everything works OK then you are in business if not then you can start in with voltage regulators, alternators and such. As JFP suggests it might be a good idea to have the car load tested to make sure the car is not drawing too much current. Braille makes a great battery for these cars which is a direct fit and it is over 1000 CCA (the stock battery is 650 CCA) Suncoast Parts carries them. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/B10049.html?Category_Code=996braille

Edited by Mijostyn
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