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This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster.
Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car
It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that
Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm
Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code.
I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error.
I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared.
I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one.
here are two Videos I made
Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect.
Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together
When battery is dead the electrical system is down, as is the trunk for accessing battery.
I have tried connecting positive to red fuse and negative to door arm. I ran current using jump starter but could not get latch to open. Does anyone have any other ideas to open truck, e.g. force lift? Thanks in advance.
Is this also true for current year C4S?
Quote for 1999 911: <<There should be a release cable under one of the headlights. You need to use something to fish it out. If you do a search at renntech.org you will find it.>>
Hi all I’ve just found this forum tonight and thought I’d ask more experienced users what they are getting power wise after a remap, I’m taking my 08 CTT into Zensport tomorrow morning for a remap and I’m wondering what kind of power I should be expecting with the following mods I’ve had done last week prior to the remap.
HAYWARD AND SCOTT EXHAUST WITH X PIPE, REAR BOXES, SECONDARY CAT DELETE, TURBO S STAINLESS STEEL TIPS. IPD PLENUM K&N PANEL FILTERS AGENCY POWER RECIRC VALVES Many thanks, Andy