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Jacking up a 996TT on its jack points


myturbo

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I'm trying to get some suggestions on jacking up the car so I can support it on the four jack points.  I've seen techniques for the straight 996, but the mounting of the TT engine is different, so I don't think that is a good method for my car.  Currently, I jack the car up and rest it on 4 cinder blocks under the tires, then jack at the suspension points to stick the jacks under the jack points, and then remove the cinder blocks.  Any thoughts?

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I'm trying to get some suggestions on jacking up the car so I can support it on the four jack points.  I've seen techniques for the straight 996, but the mounting of the TT engine is different, so I don't think that is a good method for my car.  Currently, I jack the car up and rest it on 4 cinder blocks under the tires, then jack at the suspension points to stick the jacks under the jack points, and then remove the cinder blocks.  Any thoughts?

 

Being a shop, we depend upon twin post lifts for 99% of our work, but occasionally we need to put a Boxster or 996/997 up on stands, and I absolutely hate all of the single jack points people espouse on the internet because they apply a lot of loading on components that were never meant to bear these loads.

 

Several years ago, I saw someone using commercially produced lift bars to pick up a 911 at the track, and became intrigued by them as they use the factory recommended lift points, and offer very secure ways to hold the car in the air:

 

liftbars_lw.jpg liftbars_lw_detail.jpg

 

These things are both well designed and constructed to both lift a Porsche and keep it safe.  The ends of the bars have large steel pins that insert into the factory lift points, as well as rounded jack stand mounts that both sit securely in the jack stand saddles, and allow the car to tilt back and forth while being jacked up without slipping or moving the jack stands.  You can also get the car up pretty high, depending upon the size of the jack stands you employ (we currently have a 986 Boxster up on these bars and sitting on 6 ton stands for some minor work.  The bottoms of the tires are more than 20 inches off the floor, and the car is absolutely rock steady.)

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  • 4 weeks later...
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I like the cast iron ones, but seems to be limited to the height of the casting. I really liked the one JFP shows, but I thought I'd take a run at it myself.  I bought 2 rectangular tubes 2x3 for about $90.  I bought them long enough so I could use them on my BMW 535 as well.  The pic below is after painting, but since this picture I bought custom pucks to fit into the holed in the chassis and now it's real solid.

post-96986-0-05235200-1456609164_thumb.j

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. . . , but since this picture I bought custom pucks to fit into the holed in the chassis and now it's real solid.

It's the part that fits into the holes that make bars safe to use. What sets Liftbars apart is the rounded ends that allow them to twist atop jack stands while the cars tilts during a lift, and the extended flanges that "capture" the jack stand head.

 

I've now used my Liftbars a few times and it only takes about two minutes to raise my car. The first side to get lifted sits atop my shorter 2 ton stands, then the second side gets lifted up to the minimum height of my 6 ton stands, then the first side gets raised again to set on top of another pair of 6 ton stands. From there, raise higher as needed, but the 6 ton minimum height is my safety valve. I've found that a 20" is my Goldilocks height, not too high - not too low.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I jack up my 996tt by the rear side jacking point first (close to rear wheel). this lifts up the entire side of the car. I then place the stand in the font jacking point and lower the car.  Repeat on opposite side. Then at the end I jack up the rear by the cross bar in the back, not the engine and add stands under the read side jacking points.

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